Ice Ax Uses

“almost forgot, just say no to a second hand axe.

I have replaced axes when the heads got loose. Peined the rivets to complete the trip at the time but replaced as soon as I got home. Self arrest is to save your life, not a good time to be worrying about if the axe head will come off.”

“they make good door handles....DUH!”

“what about crampons?

I need to buy some for winter hikind it gets very icy someplaces...any suggestions?”

“Crampons - get strap on bindings, the step ins are for a very limited set of boots.

Do - take your boots in and fit the crampons to your boot, a good fit is necscessary.

Try - grivel 10 pts.”

“I was hoping Manuka would respond.

I have a thought or two to add. Be very careful, several US made piolets do not have CE certification.

There are two grades for the handle T (technical) and B (basic). The CE number (my axes are at home) is CE0082, I think - it will be on the shaft with the grade below or above it. I would not climb stairs with non-CE gear.

B is fine for most mountaineering, Camp make the Highlander with an aluminium head.

I prefer a straight shaft (except, of course for waterfall climbing), without a rubber grip. The other use for a piolet beyond self-arrest is belaying which is done by soving the shaft into the snow. They also make good deadman belays. The smooth shaft penetrates better. I was taught that the correct length is when, holding it by the head as you do when climbing and letting it hang, it does not touch the ground with your boots and crampons on. Current fashion is for shorter, some times much shorter shafts (a lot is governed by fashiion).

Some makers will also say that the head is 'technical', although to my knowledge there is no seperate CE rating, at least not on the axe (I have one). This means the axe can be used for mixed climbing which includes dry tooling - using it on rock.

I agree with Manuka on strap-on crampons, although I'll be using clip-ons over the holidays because I shall be using plastics exclusively and they're lighter (10 points) than my Camp K2's. Whatever you do, don't buy alu crampons.

Ice climbing crampons have vertical (cookie cutter) rails and vertically oriented front points. The are great for vertical ice, but you won't go 50m with them on the mountain because they pick up snow, known as balling. They then become very dangerous.

It's a good idea to get 'anti-botte' inserts which prevent, well reduce balling. You can make them out of crazy carpet, although I haven't bothered.

'Botter' is the French word for balling and Herzog talks constantly about having to stop to 'débotte' his crampons on Annapurna - the first 8 000m to be climbed in 1950.

Puss 'n' Boots by Perreault is about Perreauly hearing the story from his grandmother about a 'chat botté' which really meant that its paws were full of mud or snow. His imagination transformed it into the story of a cat with boots.

Likewise, Cinderalla did not have a 'glass' slipper. Perreault heard 'verre' (glass), but it was 'Vair', or squirrel fur.

I'll go away now.”

“good info Gremlin


Sweetums - be sure to check into your own personallized thread newly created with your new trail name”

“: P”

“cute tongue there Sweetums - can you touch your nose with it?”

“used to be able to”

“Have your nose bobbed?”

“nope, got my tongue pierced”

“You got your tongue pierced with an ice ax? OUCH!!”

“In tonight's exciting episode of Samurai Tongue-Piercer...”

“That would explain the nose bobbing. They could both be accomplished with the same stroke.”

“riiight.”

“Do you talk funny with your tongue pierced? And do you smell funny with your nose...?”

“do you walk funny with your nimble foot?”

“No, I walk funny with the other one;)”