Climbers Wanted

“It's been a while since my last post -- I forgot my passwords to my previous accounts -- but some of you might remember me under a number of names: ThunderTrain, DogFace, and of course the nefarious SnakeBoy.... "What do you think about this?"

Anyway, I was off in China and Tibet for the past three months working as a base camp manager on a couple of high-altitude mountaineering expeditions. The first was in western China in province called Xinjiang, where we attempted a 7,500 meter peak called Muztagata -- unfortunately I got sick, and was only able to make it to camp three at 6,900 meters... but it was a personal altitude record for me, and I guess you can't when them all huh?

Next I tried to do the first solo circumnavigation of the mountain... completly amazing -- the scenery was awesome... the Khyrgi shepherds quite friendly... I went ultra light weight -- no tent, no sleeping bag, just a bivy sack and lots of warm clothes. About half way around I got banged by a two day storm --- stayed holed up in a small cave, but by the time the weather cleared, my food supplies had dwindled trememndously, so I had to back track and abort my mission.

Next we were off across the Taklimakan desert towards Tibet -- heinous... sand dunes everywhere interspersed with the occasional oasis. Pack into two huge monster trucks, brimming with one ton of supplies and gear we slowl made our way up winding dirt roads onto the Tibetan plateau ( about 5,000 meters above sea level). We made a couple first ascents of some 6,000+ meter peaks, but never reached our primary objective -- the elusive Ulagh Muztagh, the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world. No roads up there on the plateau -- tons of rivers and quick sand bogged the trucks down time and time again -- one unfortunate day we only made 10 kilometeres progress in 12 hours of driving.

Anyway, I just wanted to give you a brief trip report of my adventures --- I've got a lot of notes and journal entries and photos and such, and as soon as I get the time, I'll post the full-on trip report.”

“AWESOME SOUNDING FUN DUDE!!”

“Dear TrailTalkers -- I just want to thank all of you here -- this is a great site (thanks to Matt and all the other regulars) who have made this web site such a great forum.

Stop your whinning and go for it --When I graduated highschool, I seriously considered only two options: 1.) Buy a VW van and move to Yosemite to become a climbing bum and 2.)Go to college --- the
colleges of of choices were Reed College (near Smith Rocks) and
Colorado College (near Garden of the gods).

Unfortunately I never was able to get as much climbing in as I would
have liked -- after graduating I soon found myself pursuing a
professional career in the software industry. Sucks hard sitting behind a CRT all day, but at least this provided me with enough money to take some exciting trips: 1994 I hiked 350 miles of the Oregon PCT; 1998 I spent four months white water kayaking the rivers of the Pacific Northwest; 1999 I hiked 1700 miles of the California PCT; I spent 3 months bumbing around Mexico; This last year (2001) I gave up my professional career for good -- 2 weeks climbing in Baja Mexico, 2
weeks ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies; 3 months on a climbing
expedition on Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo; 2 weeks sport climbing in
Thailand; a month back in the states hitting my locals crags and
bouldering; 3 months on two separate high altitude expeditions as a base camp manager in China and Tibet.

Now I am back in the states starting my own media/video production company and planning a three-month climbing road trip throughout the western United States focusing on NA Classics, Mixed-Alpine routes, and some big wall stuff. We will be climbing most routes at the 5.10/5.11/A3 level, most at least 15 pitches in length. There will be two film crew from my company joining us for a couple productions we are involved with -- A short segement for the American Safe Climbing Association, as well as as short destination specific series called "Rock and Road".

We are still looking for a couple more climbers to join us -- we have a couple sponsors on board (Mammut and DMM Wales), and are currently seeking additonal ones --- so quit your crappy jobs (or at least take a hiatus) and get on the
Endless Road Trip with us. It's a split-the-gas and chip in for groceries affair. If you are interested, check out the
prospectus at: http://www.epicexposure.com/EndlessRoadtrip/EndlessRoadtrip.pdf

Specific questions and climbing resumes can be sent to
CamelFluffer@yahoo.com

Epic Exposure is also seeking additional investors -- if interested, please send email to Brandon@EpicExposure.com and I will forward you a copy of the business plan.”

“I'd be willing to invest more time in reading of your adventures...if you'd be willing to invest more time writing about them.”

“How did you fund all your trips?”

“Sounds like fun.

When I graduated highschool I already had a VW van.”

“I see one of your guys teaches at NOLS. Pricey aren't they?

I suck at climbing (too short, just do it for fun) otherwise I'd join ya. Also, I'm a girl
There are not that many climbers on this site (anymore?) CamelFluff”

“Wow. Sounds like you've got it going on. I've been saving for four years to go to S. America for a year and see all there is to see. I leave next April.

I know what you mean about just wanting to do what your heart tells you. Sometimes there are some trade offs but if you stay focused, you can make it happen.

Good luck to you in your pursuits. I'll look for your footage on OLN.”

“1.) How do I afford it? No Mortage payment, no wife, no kids, no entertainment center -- I work for a few months to earn some dough, then take off. I mean how much does it cost for 50 lbs of pasta, and rice and beans? Your living in a tent, so no rent payment.

2.) I think NOLS is pricey, but they don't pay their employees jack crap.

3.) Too Short and a Girl??? What sort of crap is that -- Ever hear of Lynn Hill... she tops out at 5'2" and she is better than 99% of all men climbers out there -- Don't sale yourself short.

CHeers and If I get the time I'll post a real trip report soon.”

“Sounds like a great time, Fluffy!

I would LOVE to quit my job and go on a rod-trip! But I can't right now. Trust me, I just can't.

I would love to hear about your further adventures.

I spent all yesterday rope-soloing some single-pitch trad lines. I got a Silent Partner last year and am just diggin' the hell outa this thing!”

“Fluffy, your my hero...keep on posting, I so enjoy read stuff like that.”

“I've only climbed 4 times (3 this year. There was a girl my size (4'11") that climbed a 5.10 wall with almost no effort, and more gracefully than her 6' boyfriend. She made it look so easy. So now they let me tag along on some of their trips.

Fluffer, I'd like to do it but I've got 22 years in this job (I love my job and the last 15 flew by). If I can hang on another 10 years, I'll have all the time in the world to play. So for now I can only play on the weekends....”

“Tell me more about Kinabalu.
I'm looking for info on places to go, people to see, things to do.”

“I am soooooooooooooooooo envious!!! (English teachers don't usually write like that - but this is a special case) I am now an empty nester - the kids are fine and I am finally through a ten year Hell of divorce lawyer payments, support payments - picking up the abandonned pieces of my kids - three burn-out breakdowns and my son's mental illness etc. (I'll spare you all the details). I made a New Year's resolution to spoil myself and I have been buying toys again. My local mountains are the Adirondacks and I believe in making the best of what you have. I planned a high altitude trip a couple of years ago, but had to abort when my son was hospitalised. I still have hopes of doing something major, however, before I get too old. I have no regrets about my life and I really enjoy reading about people like you. Keep on trucking and keep us wannabees informed. Thanks..”

“I have to say I disagree with you, Biz. I am only 5' 2" but I (used to) rock climb and mountaineer. I don't think stature has as much to do with climbing as desire does.

Roseymonster, where are you going in South America? I've been to Patagonia and, well...words can't describe it!!! :)”

“Sounds like you've got it coming together! It would be really interesting to hear more about the China/Tibet times too. I'm awaiting the return of a crew from my place of work who are in Sichuan, China, ice climbing right now at between 12,000 and 17,000ft. I hear so far that the food is spicy, there are Yaks everywhere, and that the ice is really hard, as in not plastic. And one of the guys is now the Godfather of a little Chinese boy from the village.”

“The local outfitter built a new store to include a large climbing facility, and it's been up for a few years now. Anywho, I was planning on learning to climb and maybe taking it up as a hobby. Then I got a dog and spent so much time with him that I never had the urge to climb anymore.

If I can't do the activity with Buddur, than I don't want to do that activity. That may seem ridiculous to some, but that's how it turned out...and I don't mind a bit.”

“I don't know, I kind of agree with Biz, I'm 5'3 and have often thought that if I were about 20 feet tall this would be so much easier...
; )”

“Anyway somebody wanted somore more information on Borneo and Mt. Kinabalu? We did a real-time webcast while we were over there... you can find it all (with the exception of some still images that have yet to be digitized) at:

www.webexpeditions.net/Kinabalu”

“Sounds incredible, CamelFluffer. I too would like to read a full report with some pictures.

Personally, I prefer hiking leisurely and not making it my entire life. But I certainly understand your position too! I'm only 25, but one of my goals is to retire early, and hopefully be in good enough shape where I can still do a lot of hiking.”

“Ok, no more short excuses...

But you have to admit that 1 girl and a bunch of guys would be weird.”

“Okay, so no climbers here -- that's cool. But if anyone wants to join us on the road and in the backcountry they are more than welcome -- we will be hitting some very remote spots (particulary in Utah, Idaho and Northern Cascades) -- anybody want to join us, is welcome, but you gotta help ferry loads to basecamp.. but I proms\ise you an adventure of a lifetime!”

“I suspect that there are quite a few climbers here, a lot of us are moving up in years, and tied to our jobs....really wish you the best.

I gotta agree with CamelFluffer, Snow Nymph and mapper....Lynn freed the Nose before any of those big tall macho types.........she said she saw holds the others didn't see.

My best buddy is a 37 year old women, 5'2", superb climber...just got back from Ama Dablam....her height has never been a problem......

Go for it CammelFluffer...If you ever get near Northern CA (Redding, you know Yates mountaineering?) look me up.....man, I really miss the road trips.................”

“We will be shooting a short segment for the American Safe Climbing Association in Yosemite -- they are trying to get Lynn Hill, Ron Kauk, or Peter Croft to narrate the segment.

We have also been talking with Joe Simpson -- Touching the Void.... everyone MUST READ THIS BOOK.... he may be joining us for part of the trip and doing some script writing for us. The itinerary, is currently under change, but I'll notify y'all when the prospectus has been updated.

Actually, I dunno if Mel is still around (she used to love me as SnakeBoy), but it might be cool to shoot a approach sequence to some climb in the sierras with her and her llamas. Somebody tell her to read this thread. Cheers.

MtnSteve, we'll definitely be going through Redding on our way to the Valley -- my favorite stop in Northern California is Weed... and get cofffee at the HiLo cafe. Do you work at Yates, or just drool over their gear. I just love my Shield harness --- been on my ass up hundreds of pitches.”

“Na, I have never worked there, we do go way back though ....I remember when John and Jim used to work out of their garage in Shingletown, man, musta been over 25 years ago..... they helped pioneer lots of the local climbs...used to see Beth Wald and Tod Skinner (among others) climbing at some of our crags. Warren Harding lives a couple miles away......

If you have time, call when you come through (hit my e-mail) perhaps we can meet at Yates for a bit.”

“SNAKEBOY!!!!!!

MY DEAR!

MY VERY OWN!!

So this is what you've been up to?

Did you take Bilbo along in his sock?

Holy Katmandu Snakeman!

You have turned into the regular cosmic traveler.

The only thing you haven't done is gone on one of the llama hikes.
Come along on one of our little domestic adventures.

So happy to see you are still sharing the same ether.

KISS!”

“poor guy bit the big one a couple years back -- I ended up taking a 60 foot whipper on some pitch I was leading, and well.... let's just say the "sock" wasn't much protection when I slammed into the rock. RIP Bilbo.

Anyway, what Llama trips to you have planned this year -- I forget exactly where you are -- somehwhere near the Kern river or the King? It would be totally rad to shoot a film sequence with my climbing team, a few wacked TT'ers, and a llama or two thrown in for fun.

Glad to see your still around Mel. As my Ozzie business/climbing partner would say "No Wackers".”

“Camel Fluff- this may explain your lack of offers

an expert from my daytimer:

We are closer to the ants than to butterflies. Very few people can endure much leisure

Gerald Brenan”

“of a similar quote: "At both ends of the social spectrun lay a leisure class." You have the amatuer mountaineer types who pay upwards of 50 grand to climb everest, then you got the dirt bag climber types like myself who can be found gathering aluminum cans out of trash bins and eating canned tuna and ramen noodles at least 10 times a week.

A famous mounatineer and climber was once quoted as saying: "If god hadn't created mountains, we would all be surfers." So very true.”

“Life is brought down to the basics: if you are warm, regular, healthy, not thirsty or hungry, then you are not on a mountain. . . . Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall - it's great when you stop.
--Chris Darwin, The Social Climbers

I hope I die before I get old.
--The Who”

“Can't you have the best of both worlds?”

“I love that quote by Chris Darwin... so damned true. I love the mountains and the so-called freedom of the hills but have no interest in extreme high altitudes -- yeah, I will undoubtedly climb one of the 8,000'ers before I kick the bucket, but it's not my real passion... forget silly trade routes on big mountains -- when I do it, it will be alpine style on the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat... 13,000 vertical of wall that tops out at over 8,000 meters.

Here are some of my other favorites:

"There are only 3 real sports: bull-fighting, car racing and mountain climbing. All the others are mere games." — Hemingway.

"I find that rock climbing is the finest, most healthiest sport in the whole world. It is much healthier than most; look at baseball, where 10,000 sit on their ass to watch a handful of players" — John Salathé, 1974.

"Writing about climbing is boring. I would rather go climbing." — Chuck Pratt.”

“Here's a link to one of my climbing buddies photo page of his climb of Ama Dablam. It's through Ofoto, and I think you have to sign up to view it, but it's worth it...awesome stuff.

No rest is as good as the one that comes after an endeavor. No accomplishment is as satisfying as the one that contained doubt. And no courage is as great as the one that included fear.

--Ivar Erik Tollefsen, during the first ascent of Ulvetanna, Antarctica.”

“Borneo is awesome... I highly recommend it for climbers and bp'ers alike. No tourists at all... awesome jungles, gorgeous oceans, and beautiful mountains.

Mt. Kinabalu 2001 Expedition Leader Brent Raymond is publishing his account of the expedition to the Canadian Alpine Journal. His account of our adventures can be found at:
http://www.epicexposure.com/Travels/Kinabalu.pdf”

“Camelfluff-- I sure hope you post more. Cause I'm not thoroughly convinced you have the answer...”

“It's not about having the answer, it's about seeking it......”

“"....what is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen...."

--Rene Daumel”

“Why? Because it's there!”

“Tango... that quote is by Mallory... one of the blokes (along with Irvine) who disappeared while trying to summit Everest back in the pre-war years.

I actually like Warren "Batso" Harding's answer to that same question. When asked "why climb"? He answered -- "why? why? why?"”

“Why? Why? Why? Dehlila.
-Tom Jones”