GSMNP Favorite Places!

“As you know HPM, Prowler and myself were considering doing a 'favorite places hike' over Memorial Day weekend.

NowSlimmer: "On my knees, every site looks great to me when I arrive! But I'll think about this while working today. Strong contenders are 3, 13, 38, 49, 60, 64, Laurel Gap and Tricorner."

HPM: "I like 13, 49, 71, Silers Bald and Laurel Gap."

Lee Lewis (see LeConte Extravaganza! thread): "Mine would be Ft Henry (section of The Chimneys), the Jumpoff, Charlies Bunion, Cabin flats, the Hazel Creek area, Gregory and Andrews Bald, and Midnight Hole (way far east, south of Walnut Bottoms)


Let's do it. :)"”

“Cabin Flats sure gets mentioned a lot.. :)

I had never heard of this Midnight Hole place tho.. ?”

“hMmMm.. well we got THREE going anywayz.. :)..


Seriously.. which plan do you like best?.. this thread or the other thread?”

“I heard the GSMNP just got some Elk released into the Park.”

“Yeah, they're to towards the Cattaloochee area and around that end. They periodically close down some trails around the elk during calving season.”

“Smoky Mountains sucks.
Don't even bother to go. It's WAY overrated.”

“The Midnight Hole is about one mile up from Big Creek CG, which makes it about four miles from Walnut Bottoms. It is a small swimming and fishing spot, nothing as big as the "Sinks." You can usually see fish swimming there. Across the creek is a large boulder that is used for sunbathing in the summer with ocassional jumps or dives into the water about 8 to 10 feet below.

Of more interest to me now is a spot about one mile upstream from CS #36, going up towards Camels Gap on the AT. I saw an interesting rock formation in the creek. It appeared to be a very long smooth, flat slab the width of the creek and the water just seemed to glide down over it in a real smooth flow. If the stone is smooth enough, it would make a beaautiful, long water slide. It dwarfs "Sliding Rock" in length.

Little Mouse Falls is about two miles upstream from Deep Creek CG. It is about one block downstream from where the trail crosses the creek on a wide, flat bridge

If you visit Deep Creek, say hello at Mountain Mama's for me to John and Caroline Thigpen (from Paul, the backpacker from Florida). They serve great hamburgers!

Depending upon the spring weather you could hit the balds at their peak flowering time!

Elk were introduced about one year ago, and more were scheduled to be released this winter, probably in December. Near their rutting season in Oct., you could hear the bugle sound of the males. Otherwise, they are as interesting to watch as a herd of cattle grazing in a field. They seem to have misplaced the deer and, possible, the wild turkeys from the valley floor. Even with the increased sightseeing population visiting the area, Cataloochee is still my favorite of the 10 developed campgrounds.

Driving from the CG further along the valley floor, just past the old schoolhouse parking area, is a small, parking area on the left along the creek. If you visit Cataloochee, I suggest that you park there and cross the log bridge. A few feet from you is a piece of aluminum you can move. It covers a spring fed pool and the water is great for making coffee, etc.

"Smoky Mountains sucks.
Don't even bother to go. It's WAY overrated."
walkindude
05:31:17 PM
01/29/02

walkindude I'd be interest in hearing some of the details. Every place seems to have some good and bad features. A lot of it hinges upon personal objectives and personal preferences.

Paul”

“I tend to aggree with WD, In all all honesty I have been only few times to the GMSMNP- but what I have seen is very impacted and the air quality sucks.Hell the park is the 1st or 2nd most visited in the USA.

There is a place between the Rich Mtn Trail and Cades Cove Road called White Oak Sinks that is very cool.”

“Midnight hole is great in the summertime. The jump off that rock into that pool will wake you up that's for sure. It's a pretty deep pool, kewl to see the fish swiming deep below you. That area is one of my favorite hikes, the loop from Big creek to Walnut Bottoms to the look out tower on Stierling and down back to Big Creek is on the top of my list . Never heard of the "sinks". What is it and where in the park is it?”

“Rocky Top is the best!”

“WD: Sorry to hear you say that GSMNP is way over-rated.. Can't say I agree at all. The trick to me is to go in the non-peak periods. I have to say that some of the climbs, views and pathways are some of the BEST hiking I have EVER done.”

“I gotta agree with TD. Geographically the Smokes are stunning. The trick is to avoid the crowds. Tip -- Avoid summer and head to the backcountry.”

“Exactly!.. get far enough into the park that you are out of reach.

Anyways.. we will do this trip also.. if not Memorial Day.. than a late Fall/Winter trip..”

“And NowSlimmer? I truly hope we can hike together sometime. I thought << I >> knew the park well!

You are amazing!”

“"...the "sinks". What is it and where in the park is it?"
fasttimes
08:22:52 PM
01/29/02

It is a swimming/diving hole on the Little River/Little River Road west from Elkmont, west from the road to Wears Cove, at the trailhead of the Meigs Creek Tr. It is east of the "Y", (the junction of Little River Road, the road to Townsend, and Laurel Creek Road which goes to Cades Cove). The "Y" is the second most populated tubing area, Deep Creek being No. 1.”

“I saw tubers (is that starchy?) on my one trip there. I liked Cades Cove area.”

“"The Sinks" is an identified location on the park hiking map.”

“Lizs: Cades is nice.. IF..

you can catch it on an off day.

When the traffic is up, it is murder.”

“Midnight is better than Walnut Bottoms, NS?”

“Midnight is just part of the the Big Creek and you could miss it hiking unless you know the spot. It took me several hikes before I was sure of it, there being no sign. There was a small fence or something, maybe a hitching post there on my last visit. I believe the creek drops about 6 to 8 feet into the pool.

Walnut Bottons is a backcountry campground, actually two campgrounds. It has previously been rated as attracting the greatest concentration of bears in the park. I could tell you a lot of stories as to how the bears have conquered different techniques of trying to keep the food packs safe. The metal lockers enbedded in concrete finally seemed to work. They probably have the new cable hangers there now, too. So the bears may not visit there as much, now.”

“Went there in Spring the one year and it was beautiful.

The campgrounds were packed but we went into the backcountry and barely saw a soul. We did a great loop where you had to cross a swollen stream.”

“I believe the route we took was the Abrams Falls Trail to Hannah Mtn Trail with one night at campsite # 16, then Hannah Mtn Trail to Gregory Bald Trail with one night at # 13 (Sheep Pen Gap) and then Forge Creek Rd back to the car.”

“I would much rather hike in North Georgia, or Nantahala, or Pisgah in North Carolina.
There is nothing I can see in the Smoky's that I can't see anywhere else through the Appalachian Mountains and with less tourist.”

“Walnut Bottoms does now have the cable system, I believe all the backcountry sites do or plan to anyhow. What's funny is that in the past 5 years that I've been going to GSMNP I have yet to see a bear! I'm probably asking for it, but I'm dying to see one at this stage. With several of my trips being to Walnut Bottom, it's funny that I read here that it was rated high for bear activity. I really like Walnut Bottoms, you camp right on Big creek, lots of space to spread out the campers and a easy hike in from Big Creek Station. I like to take people that are just getting into hiking to Walnut bottoms because of it's low grade incline in and wide path, it's an old logging road I believe. And then from there you have several differnt choices to continue your hike.”

“I also like Walnut Bottoms, and it has a special childhood significance for me. The only bear encounter I have EVER had strangly enough was NOT at Walnut Bottoms, but rather.. *smirk* Laurel Gap.”

“fasttimes If you really want to see bears, get up on top during the first and second weeks of August. The berries are ripe and the bears will be eating.

In 2000 my daughter had 7 bear encounters in two days hiking or at the shelters. We went from Clinkman's Dome to Double Springs Gap and then to Derrick Knob Shelters. They will definitely be at Spence Field eating pin cherries. I've had encounters at Russell Field and at Mollies Ridge and you can probably find them at Gregory Bald and Parson Bald.

Be extremely careful if any cubs are around. That's the time to back off.”

“Seems kind of strange with all the crowds. I have been on the AT between Fontana and Clingmans during the last two Septembers. Most nights I was at the shelters alone. The biggest crowd I have encountered at a shelter was 2 others and I. I did see about 10 people as they were leaving Spence Field, they were all in the shelter the night before. I guess I have just been lucky to miss the crowds. September seems to be a non-peak month for the GSMNP.
One of my favorite places is the ridgeline between Clingmans and Double Spring Shelter. I have been that way a few times. It has always been neat. The clouds come up one side of the mountain and float over you. Kind of cool for someone from Florida.”

“Amazing, I never see crowds on the trails when I go except for on the AT and even then I wouldn't call it a crowd. The only crowds I have ever seen on the trails are those that intersect 441 and out in the Cades Cove area. Get away from the dang roads.

Flatlander that is one of my favorite sections and since I do it in March I usually have it to myself.

You pegged it Flatlander-Septemer and March are the best.”

“The only time I see crowds is when I am a mile or so from the nearest road.

(Most tourists can't handle walking more that two miles with their camera, and LL Bean jackets, water bottles, hip packs and matching wilderness decor.)”

“Paul/NowSlimmer: Here are my selections:

In numerical order, campsites number: 1, 38, 49, 60.

In alphabetical order: Icewater Spring Shelter, Tricorner Knob Shelter

In early August: Spence Field, for the pin cherries before the bears consume them all.
--------------------------------------------------
#1, Cooper Road CS - spacious, good fire rings, good tent and hammock sites, easily available firewood, easy to reach quickly, day or night, only 0.9 miles from the trailhead, a good starting place from where you can return to the car to get anything that was overlooked, usually unpopulated since people want to hike in deeper, safe parking.

#38, Mount Sterling CS - spacious, privacy, great views from the firetower, wildlife - you should at least see rabbits, a prize destination as the highest backcountry CS in the Park, a challenge to reach as one or more strenous trails must be hiked, can be reached from many locations - Balsum Rd., Big Creek, Cataloochee, Cosby, Newfound Gap, etc. I always reserve three nights there to help assure that I get some good views.

#49, Cabin Flats CS - spacious, great views on the approach trail, carrys one back to the early settler days and to the logging days when thay damed the creeks until they were ready to float the logs out. Far enough in on a dead end trail that you might be there alone.

#60, Bumgardner Branch CS - spacious, beautiful setting, good fire rings, some good tent sites, easily available firewood if you know where, somewhat easy to reach - steady upgrade until you climb one hill and then you're there, day or evening, only 2.9 miles from the trailhead, a good starting place from where you can return to the car to get anything that was overlooked, in summer tubing brings lots of girls in swimming suits along the first part of the trail, safe parking.

Icewater Spring Shelter - spacious, sky light, good cooking/eating area, bench for sitting or reaching the upper platform, relatively easy to reach, good water supply, good views - can see Bryson City lights, because of the enlarged floor space, I tell people that dances are held there on Sat. nights., on the AT.

Tricorner Knob Shelter - a good setting, good water (if you go to the spring drain pipe up the hill. Horses have been taken on the hill between the pipe and the three drain areas in front of the shelter.), a challenge to reach, good times - I have met more interesting people here than at any other place in park. And I have had the shelter to myself for more nights than any other shelter in the park.

I reserve the right to change my selections at any time.

Paul

nowslimmer
12:28:58 AM
01/30/02”

“I was in the Smokies two Decembers ago and hardly saw a soul. I went from Clingsman to the dam. I had all the shelters to myself except for the night spent on Clingsmans. It was a weekend evening and there was a thru hiker and another guy training to thru hike. Be it off season or mid week, you'll practically have the place to yourself even if you are hiking the main throughfares. Its like when I go boating down on Lake Cumberland, I'll go on a Sunday and leave on a Tuesday. The weekend warriors leave on Sunday and I'll have the place almost to myself. I think it might be the fact that tourism and its wake have ruined the Smokies experience for some. It is quite shocking for what I remember back in the 70's.”

“I am not one that thinks that the Smokies is overrated. Just don't go near roads in peak season. We were at CS-9, Spence Field, Russell Field, this weekend and there amazingly (weather was awesome) were no people. I took a sun nap on Spence field with a great view and didn't see another person outside our group. We noted that the trails in the area were in really good shape and had recent maintenance. I think they were doing a lot of work on the areas of the park not accessed from NFG road since its been closed. As for favorite places in the park... Mt. Camerrer tower, Shuckstack tower overlooking Fontanna, Sugarland Mtn Trail, Thunderhead, and the Bunion when it isn't packed. I like camping @ CS-31 and doing the manway to the Bunion as a day hike. Lots of bear posting signs in the area we were in and I heard near Walnut Bottoms. The NFG road should be back open a/o 2/1.”

“TD, HPM - Forgot to tell you before that mtnman may be an excellent source of GSMNP information for you. I suspect that he knows the Park much better than me.

You people are obviously capable of doing at least four times the hiking that I can do on a good day after getting in shape. But I would still enjoy meeting you.

mtnman - It does not apppear that I'll get to GSMNP this winter. But I still would be happpy to meet up with you and these others sometime.”

“Sure nuff? I would like to get back before it gets warm, we got off way too easy this week. The last time I was at Spence Field in Jan. it was -5, this weekend it was about 50. Thanks for the compliment but there are a lot of portions of the park I never get to so its hit and miss on knowing what's where.
With a little lead time and permission from the wife I'm good to go.”

“I think Mom and Town Dawg know the place top to bottom. Its in their backyard, I have to drive 4 hours.”

“lol.. mtnman.. thanks for the compliment.. but I give sway to better authorities.. :)..

and for the record?.. I am about FIVE hours away from GSMNP.”

“Sorry, I thought you were from Knoxville, TN I'm in the hiking mood and ready to go back, maybe late Feb. Thinking about a trip into Cherokee or other area outside NP boundary where you can tent at sites other than the mud hole CS spots. Any good hike ideas?”

“Howdy mtnman.. well we have mentioned a LOT of them on this thread?.. *nudge nudge*”

“Get my email TD?”

“I was concentrating on outside the NP but will go back and re-read. Bottom line is going there is better than sitting here.Have a good one.”

“mtnman: AHhhh.. . well.. let me recommend Roan Mountain!

We have trip reports if you are interested.

HPM: Sure did! and I am psyched!”

“Interested, heck I'm salivating. I've spent soo much time in a house remodel that my wife is practically begging me to go off somewhere and unstress. Lay it on me!! How do I find them??”

“I'm leaning towards the favorite places trip idea now.”

“HPM: Waffle.

:)”

“Leggo my Eggo!”

“HPM: Well at least by Memorial Day you should have my DreamWeaver templates done.”

“mtnman: Our Roan Mountain Trip ”

“Ack!”

“TownDawg - Another good one!

It remainds me of "Why did I do Mt. Fuji from the bottom of the Gotemba Trail? And why go up the Gotemba Trail?"

1. Bcause I led my group off the Japanese Bus at the wrong stop! Most people start half-way up Fuji at a Stage 5 on one of the 5 principle trails.

2. Because we planned our own trip. It turns out that the Gotemba Trail is mostly soft black ash in which you slide backward with almost every step upward. Others love to come down that trail, running, rolling and sliding in the soft, black ash.

For what we did, the Japanese point a rotating finger at their head while saying "baca." (crazy)”