Hiking the Thorofare

“In search of firsthand information on backcountry campsites, best routes, trail conditions, and fly-fishing in th upper Thorofare of YNP and the Teton Wilderness.”

“GR, where ya from? I missed out on the hike through the Thorofare a few years back. A couple of friends did it while I was on vacation with the family.

They started outside of Dubois, near Brooks Lake Lodge I believe. Ended up at the end of the South Fork highway about 45 miles from Cody. Got dropped off where they started and left a vehicle where they ended.

Great fishing I hear. Have to be careful of lightning storms up there though. Seems like at least one person gets hit up there every couple years or so.

Wish I had more detail, but I don't. Sorry.”

“You are right about the lighting Chief. The thunder bombers come up in the afternoons. Logistically it will be easier for me to come in from either the Yellowstone Lake or Two Ocean Trail. I have three daughters and a wife of my own and they love the backcountry trails. Life is GOOD. Thanks for the insight Chief.”

“Starting Thusday, I'll be hiking 9 mile trailhead to the south entrance. Looks like we could have some chilly temps and possibly see some snow/sleet. Should I carry any kind of snow protection i.e. traction.

Anybody familiar with this route?”

“Where are you starting from? Cody?

I wouldn't worry too much about "traction" as I would about clothes for colder conditions.

It'll probably be dipping into the low 30's at night. Days should still be in the 70's.”

“We were there two weeks ago and running the AC as we car toured. ;-)
Tshirts and shorts were the dress of the day.
The Wind River Range is pretty close and temps only dipped to freezing a couple of mornings even at 10K feet but shot up like crazy the minute the sun came out.”

“Starting from Jackson with a shuttle around to 9 mile trailhead.

I've got the fleece and am bringing my Hilleburg Atko cause it's looking like lows to 28 plus it's light. Daytime highs in 50's to 60's. Some rain here and their and calling right now for sleet on the 9th. Course it's always changing but I'm prepared for anything from 80's to snow. I'll just layer up.

Thanks Chief -”

“Thanks SS”

“It could be in the 20's at night! There's a cold front moving in over the weekend and it's supposed to be in the 60's down here in Billings, so I'd expect highs in the 50's and lows in the low 30's or high 20's where you're going. I've been up in the Beartooths over labor Day before and we had one night at 27 degrees.

Don't worry about traction- your hiking shoes are good enough. But I would carry a some clothes to weather some snow or sleet.”

“Oh yea, carry warm clothing. I wore my jacket in the mornings before the sun came up, but do expect it to be nice during the day.”

“Anyone live close enough to Jackson and have Friday the 9th available? There's a layover day there before flying out. Wanna bum around or do something?”

“I'm getting confused, again.

So you are starting from Jackson and ending up in Jackson?

Where exactly are you going, and are you going by yourself?”

“Base is Jackson. Shuttle will take us to the start at 9 mile. We'll drive out of the south entrance back to Jackson on the 9th. Does that make sense??? It may not.

There's a group of 7 of us. You may have seen 2-3 of them on this board. I hike alone alot, but don't think I have the guts in grizzly country just yet. :-)”

“Ok,maybe this is more clear

Thur - trailhead to 5E9 Park Point
Fri - Beaverdam trail 5E1
Mountain Creek Ford 6D2
Sat-Wed various places in between
Thur 8C2
Fri - out to South Entrance”

“I have been to this place you speak of, The Thorofare deep in the Teton Wilderness. It is the furthest point from any trailhead in the upper 48 states (if you have the map upside down). The place is infested with some of the highest grizzly bear populations south of Canada and north of the San Diego Zoo. It's about 30 miles to the Hawk's Rest at the confluence of the Upper Yellowstone River and Thorofare Creek (which is really a river too). I went in from the Turpin Meadows trailhead along the Buffalo Fork River, over Two Ocean Pass and down Atlantic Creek into the Thorofare. I saw grizzly bears and caught big wild cutthroats thick as salmon. The "Parting of the Waters" is a cool place up on Two Ocean Pass where Two Ocean Creek tumbles down and then divides into two creeks, one forming Pacific Creek and eventually draining into the Pacific Ocean, the other forming Atlantic Creek and eventually flowing into the Atlantic Ocean. There is a sign on a tree where the creek splits that shows the mileage to each ocean. You'd hafta pack a lot of grub to hike to either ocean from there.

The Yellowstone cutthroats that spawn in the Upper Yellowstone River and its tributaries are greatly diminished compared to years ago, most biologists blaming the illegal introduction of highly predatory lake trout in Yellowstone Lake. The cutts spawn in the spring and get real thick in the river and then head back to the lake. If you want incredibly fishing you gotta be there in June or very early July, otherwise it's not that great. Few backpackers head in there due to the great mileage so you'll see mostly horsepackers (at least in the Teton Wilderness side). In the fall you'll see lots of elk hunters on horseback. This place is very beautiful and has a very wild feel about it, especially if you stray a short ways away from the main camping areas under the Hawk's Rest.

Here's a photo from a few years ago of the Upper Thorofare River, which was loaded with 16"-18" cutts.

The Thorofare, most remote spot in lower 48”

“Cool, have fun, but above all, be safe. You WILL be in the heart of griz country where you are going.”

“How about the stomach of Griz Country?”

“Better than the stomach of the griz!!!”

“Make sure you carry a fresh can of pepper spray. And the grizzlies would appreciate it if you carry a little butter and salt too.”

“Thanks guys, yep that's the place. Been looking forward to it all year.”

“Whoa...Fantastic picture BUCK!!!”

“It's not Elk hunting season is it??”

“Looks like hunting season opens the 10th of September for those areas south of Yellowstone.”

“Whew, we'll be out by the 9th, all goes right. Course I don't think I look a lot like an elk but....

Thanks Chief!”

“Doesn't much matter what you look like, some guys just shoot at sounds.

j/k

You will definitely see hunters and outfitters in the area as it is Bighorn Sheep season in the area you will be.”

“I sure hope dhutch took our advice and brought WARM clothes, it's supposed to get down to freezing tonight. It's been raining here since early morning and I saw snow at ~7000'.

Can only imagine that it's worse down around Jackson.”

“Just got back yesterday. Yep, the temps in the morning were around 23 at the lowest. I came back home to find the new Patagonia down sweater I had hoped to take on the trip sitting at my doorstep.

Thanks for all the info guys. My clothing selection was perfect although toe warmers in the morning would have been nice. It rained/snowed heavily on our first full hiking day but thereafter was beautiful. The rangers turned a group back on our route due to snow on Big Game ridge. But by the time we got there, it had melted.

I took the bear spray, yes. But with 7 people in the party, we didn't see one bear :-(

What a hike! I'm ever in awe and reformulating my 2 year plan to move west.”

“Great! Now where're the pictures???!


We were up in the Beartooths just over a week ago and got snowed on Fri and Sat., but by Monday (Labor Day) it was beautiful!”

“working on pictures. Stay tuned.”