AT Trip Report: Del Water Gap to Culvers Gap

“On March 8-10, 2002, seven of us hiked the first 27-plus miles of the Appalachian Trail northbound into New Jersey, from Delaware Water Gap to Culver's Gap. I recently learned that the first few miles of this section (up to Sunfish Pond) is the most-used section of the entire Appalachian Trail.

My son Ian and I met Pennsy Hiker at the Dunnsfield Creek Parking Area, Delaware Water Gap, at about 3:20 on Friday. We chatted and stalled for awhile, waiting for SirPete and his three friends to arrive.

A man at the trailhead said he had just seen a bear 1/4 mile up the trail. I was hoping we would see a bear, and so was Ian. Pennsy gave me a spare canister of pepper spray, just in case, and it seemed wise to take it even though I wasn't really worried.

There was a water pump at the trailhead, but we didn't need it.

Temperature was around 60, comfortable enough. We expected a low in the 40's, a warm (upper 60's) partly cloudy day on Saturday followed by a cold rainy night, and a dry Sunday.

At 4:00 we took off up the hill, thinking that Pete and company might have already left. In any case, we expected we'd hook up with them later that evening.

Taking the AT northbound from the parking lot, the climb was steady but gradual for several miles. The trail was dry, but the Dunnfield Creek was flowing well.

We arrived at "backpacker site #2" and there was no one there. We took a look around, and found the caretaker's wooden platform on the west side of the ridge with a beuatiful view into Pennsylvania. The sun was about to set, so we scoped out some reasonable tent sites (like PA, NJ is very rocky) and started opening up our packs.

Just then, we heard loud voices coming up the trail. SirPete, Phil, Dave, and Dave Jr. walked into camp and we did introductions all around.

Tents went up, and we all sat around eating our dinners (sandwiches, bagels, we had all planned on a simple first meal.)

The sky was clear, but it had become a bit windy, and the temp dropped quickly. We discussed the weather, someone (I shall remain nameless) said there was "no chance" of rain that night and Pete agreed.

We visited for awhile then went to sleep early, 7:30. That was a little bizarre for me, Ian, and Pennsy, but there wasn't much alternative. With no campfires allowed, and no shelter, there was little else to do.

At 12:15am I was awakened by the sound of large raindrops hitting my tent. My pack, and Ian's, were both outside and not covered. I scampered out of the tent into a cold dense fog. I covered my pack and shoved Ian's under the vestibule, then went back to sleep.

A few hours later, at 5:45, I was awakened by another even more sinister sound. It was the sound of my fellow hikers talking, laughing, making breakfast...

We all got up, had breakfast and broke camp, and by 7:20 we were on the trail. It was still very foggy and drizzling lightly.

In 15 minutes we were at Sunfish Pond, a 41 acre lake which we could barely see because of the fog.

As we had discussed the night before, we had two options for this day. The next campsite, at Buttermilk Falls, was 16 miles away. However, four miles past that is the Brinks Road Shelter, and we all felt that we'd prefer to spend a rainy night in the shelter if we could.

You've done the math, I'm sure, so you know that is 20 miles, carrying full packs over some difficult (rocky) terrain.

We walked along all morning, with the beautiful views to our right and our left relegated to our imaginations. As we talked, I learned that Phil and "the Daves" were in the process of doing the whole AT, piece by piece. They generally hike one weekend in the spring and another in the fall, and they have so far covered nearly 500 of the trails 2,167 or so miles.

At six miles, we crossed Camp Road, which was followed by a steep climb that left me gasping for air.

By the time we hit the Catfish Fire Tower, at eight miles, I was feeling totally whacked.

We lunched at Millbrook Blairsville Rd, having already covered over nine miles--a daily record for me! During lunch we got our first glimpse of blue sky.

Around 2:00, we arrived at the Blue Mountain Lakes Road water pump--which had no handle and therefore, no water. Plan "B" for water was Crater Lake, another two miles north, where, at 3:00, the sky turned dark again, and we felt raindrops.

At 16 miles, we passed the Buttermilk Falls Trail, and committed to another four miles and (if available) a shelter for the night. The wind was picking up, and although it wasn't really raining, it was certainly threatening.

The last four miles were extremely difficult. I started getting a nasty pain in my left knee with every step, especially going downhill. I was exhausted, had blisters developing on my feet, and had chafing between my legs (sorry if that's TMI!)

At 18 miles, Rattlesnake Mountain was a steep and very difficult climb, even though it was only a couple hundred vertical feet. At that point in the day, it was a gut-buster.

By 6:00 we had all arrived at the Brinks Road Shelter and, to our delight and relief, we were the only ones there. Congratulations were shared all around, as it had been a "personal record" distance for everyone except Dave Jr.

The seven of us just barely fit inside, but we did manage to get situated, and went to sleep around 8:30.

There was quite a chorus of snores, but that was nothing compared to the storm that blew through between 1:15 and 2:00. It was a good old-fashioned lightning and thunderstorm, and I was very relieved to be in the shelter and not in a tent.

After the storm passed through, the temp dropped, but we all slept OK. It was tough getting out of the bag in the morning, but we were on the trail before 8:00. The sun was shining, the sky was mostly clear, and we had some nice views of Culver's Lake.

By 9:30 or so, we were at the famed "Worthington's Bakery," and the hike was over for Pete, Pennsy, Ian, and me. Phil and the Daves left their packs in Pete's truck and "dayhiked" another 12 miles in their quest to eventually hike the entire AT.

Pennsy and Pete will no doubt provide corrections and additional info/stories about the trip. But speaking for Ian and myself, we really had a good time, it was a pleasure to be with that group of people, and we very much appreciated the helpfulness and generosity of all.”

“Oh yeah! Glad yall made it to the shelter. Nothing like being in a shelter when it's storming outside. I figured sirpete's friend Jerry would have been there.
Let sirpete walk you to death in the White Mountains next time! Now that's a but whoppin!”

“Sounds like you guys had a great time. Good thing you were in the shelter when that storm hit Saturday night. I live just west of there in the Poconos and it slammed into my house at about 12:15 – 12:30 with very strong wind, torrential downpours and hail. It also took down a few trees.”

“I was wondering about you guys with that wind Saturday night. We woke up at one point and I looked outside because it was so loud, we both thought it might be a tornado. 20 miles on that section is a pretty good clip.”

“What Fritz said!



And don't let Dude fool ya who's butt got walked off. He can walk me by all day long!!!!!”

“Great trip report Fritz! I hereby designate you the official reporter on all future trips.

I certainly don't see anything in your report to correct, but I might want to add some tid-bits.

First, I want to award Fritz the 'Red Badge of Courage.' Saturday was a very long day and 20 miles over hilly, rocky terrain is a feat even for well seasoned backpackers. Fritz's longest backpacking day before this was 8 miles and it took some real chutzpah to gut this one out. Kudos Fritz! By the way, EVERYONE was toast after that day, but I am sure glad we got to the shelter to avoid that nasty storm.

Sir Pete was the perfect host as usual and it was great to meet another TT'er (Fritz). Fritz's 17 year old son Ian, despite his fear of mice and spiders ;-) has lots of energy and sure helped pull me along those last 2 miles Sat night. I don't even think he noticed the rope tethered to him.

Pete's pals Phil, Dave, and Dave Jr are a real trip. Excellent hikers plus great personalities with lots of humour. Phil especially would be a great addition to the TT nuthouse if he decides to join us.

Some favorite moments of the trip:
Sunset Fri night
The eerie fog Sat morning
Surviving Sat and making it to the lean-to
Good cigars and Phil's famous gatorade screwdrivers
Tickle my a$$ with a feather. HUH??
Pete finding a wall-less privy up on the hill (kinda Monty Pythonish)
Seeing the sun on Sunday
Ending the trip at the BAKERY!
Packing the gear of 7 hikers and 4 people into Pete's little pickup.

And the best part...... hiking with great people!

ps..... I'm working on the pics and they might be posted tonight.”

“Great, Looking foward to it!”

“Great trip reports! Sounds like you guys had a really good hike.”

“Great trip report... Sounded like a lot of fun... I do not think we have the shelters in CA. What are they like? I assume they are made out of wood.. But are they raised floor, 4 walls.. or something else?”

“They are 3 sided mostly.”

“Here are some pics of the trip. I wish there were more scenics but the fog took care of that Saturday.

WLD - there are 2 photos of the shelter (a 3 sided wooden lean-to), but slightly obstructed by "rude" hikers who jumped in front of the camera to pose. ;o)”

“You really did have a great hike! Thanks for the pics.”

“** smiles all over **

I luv a good TR that takes you right there!

Good job, Fritz! I take back all those horrible things I have been saying behind your back.”

“thanks for the shots!

I look like a shrimp next to those mugs....”

“Great shots Fritz.
Sirpete didn't look tired enough. Shoulda walked him a bit harder.
hehehe!”

“Great pictures! Thanks.. Yep, I do not think I have seen any shelters out here.
Great shot of the sunset...
Nice trip guys!”

“Dude, those shots were Pennsy's.

Here's my first Webshots album.

And here's my second.

Oh, and Pennsy, thanks for the badge. I've always liked red. ;-)”

“Oooops. My bad.
Those are nice pictures too. Both Pennsy & Fritz.
Was that the shelter where yall took the group shot in front of? If so it sure is small.”

“Pretty awesome sunset, Pennsy! Glad that you guys made it to the shelter for the storm. But twenty miles! Unbelievable! The most I did was 12 miles on the WRT and that was an easy, relatively non-rocky section. Still, I was pretty whipped, so I can't imagine pulling out another 8 miles over that. I was worrying about you guys, with that wind. It was gusting at 60 mph, according to one TV station. I'm glad no one was hurt. But it seems that you had zero bear sightings? What a letdown.

Fritz, I still need to look up your pictures; I only looked at Pennsy's so far. So, now that you are a veteran hiker, what is your next feat for the tough old feet?”

“Sounds like he's ready for the hills on the BFT.”

“Yup, now Pennsy and Fritz are ready to do the whole BFT trail in just two days!

Great albums, Fritz. I haven't been to the section where you overlook Culver's Lake. It looks like a good area to hike in. That open area must have been very windy and cold on Sunday!”

“Pennsy, I have a suspition...the sunset pic you took, you must've used a filter, or you did some editing....it is a beautiful pic but "I was there" and I don't think it looked like that. ;-)

Or maybe it is just sour grapes because I didn't get such a nice shot of it. What can you teach me, oh master, about how to capture a great sunset?”

“I dunno if I am as ready as you think, Splash and Rich, for the BFT. I could NOT have done multiple days like that! I have a few issues to resolve--blisters, chafing, and knee pain. Those out of the way and "BFT here I come!"

I am pretty sure poles are the main answer to the knee pain...a matter of $$$$.”

“I am thinking we did not encounter the same intensity of a storm that several of you have described. It was loud and there was wind, but I never thought it was a tornado, and I don't think any trees came down.

Perhaps the fact that we were in a valley afforded us some protection.”

“Well, you know Fritz, it's always something. One trip, you have blisters, the next one your hip hurts, after that you have back pain. I think it is just something that you learn to ignore (which I haven't learned how to do). I was discussing it with Rich, in that I was thinking that starting really early in the day makes a big difference in getting more miles in. I was thinking that next time I might try packing up first thing, hiking for a few miles, and then stopping and cooking breakfast, filtering water. Otherwise I don't seem to get on the trail until 9:30-10:30AM.”

“Nice photos.

Seeing that section with the rock scramble reminds me of when we did that years back going from north to south so we had to go down it. We were pretty tired and one of my friends 'turtled' - fell over backwards and got his pack wedged in the rocks so he couldn't get up. I'm sure I still find it funnier than he does.”

“Thanks for all the comps on the pics. You did a nice job with yours Fritz. About the sunset, I did not use a filter for that effect. When I do sunsets, I put my camera in manual mode and underexpose to 'darken' and 'richen' the scene. If you have an EV compensation control on your camera, try a -.3, -.7, or even -1 the next time you see a sunset or sunrise.

Oh yeah Splash...... we're gonna do the BFT in 2 days!! LOL!

WD - yes, that was our shelter and we did manage to sardine all 7 of us in it. A few overlapping of legs but it worked!”

“Yes, we did have a discussion about starting out earlier in the morning and it does make a difference. I did this when I covered 20 miles on the Quehanna Trail one day and it works. You can walk slower and still cover a lot of distance, more rest breaks, less lactic acid build up, less pain and less chance of blisters, etc. Fritz, did you try moleskin to protect against blisters? Usually if you put it on in time they can be avoided. Feet seem to be the hardest thing to tough up for backpacking. I think you did a great job hiking 20 miles in one day. Everyone should be proud of themselves that went on that trip.”

“Yeah Splash, Get up, get out. That's the best way to make good milage. Pack light and you don't need as many or as long of rest stops either. When you do stop for a break, take care of ALL things at once. Filter water, eat, pee, take a dump, ect. do it all at one stop and then your good for several more miles. Something I do is keep some snacks handy in a little pouch on my hip belt and I can eat on the move. Plus the hydration system is handy too for that reason.

Also, Congrats to Fritz on doing 20 miles. That is a big day! You just put your ability on a new level!”

“Guys, I've never hiked past sunfish pond...thanks for taking me on the trip. Many happy days are long past that were spent hiking up both sides of the Gap. Cool...20MILES!!!! ARE YOU FRIGGIN NUTZ!!!...well done.”

“Pennsy: Great shots! You capture personalities well with those close-up viewpoints, and your landcsapes/scenics are nice. I vote for you as official upcoming "Number One BFT Photographer."

Fritz: Your wider angle candids of hikers in various action poses and those "along-the-trail" shots complement Pennsy's work nicely. Between the two of you, the images tell the story well in visual form. And your trip report is excellent. I vote for you as "BFT Trip Report-and-Assistant-Picture-taker Dude."

Nice job. Thanks guys.”

“Very Nice! I downloaded the Sunset pic from Pennsy's album and it's my new desktop wallpaper 8)”

“Pennsy and Fritz, nice pics and story to go along with them. Looking forward to meeting up with you on the BFT. Sorry I don't have a digital camera. Have to start saving some $$.”

“I've been downloaded! Now THAT'S a compliment! Thanks WW. :o)

Thankee much Mr Silver, and I'm sure there will be mucho picture taking on the BFT trip.”

“Hmmmm, I think there were gremlins on the trip. Dave lost his pants, I lost my nifty ti spork, and I just noticed my stove burner plate is gone. And we all probably lost a bit of sanity that weekend as well. ;o)”

“Dave's pants were stuffed............deep in his bag.”

“Received a CD in the mail today from Phil...384 pictures, about half of which are from this trip. That was nice of him.

And it sure looks like I missed some fun...apparently they had the nerve to go on a trip without me. (Just because they hadn't met me yet is no excuse.)”

“looks like a great time, despite the weather...its a character builder, anyway! That area is beautiful, although I have never gone all the way to the bakery. Thanks for sharing.

Makes me nostalgic for the Pond, methinks I'll drag Dare up there for a dayhike tomorrow. :o)

Great shots, as always Pennsy!”

“you had best not go by my house without gettin me G!!!!”