Mount Shasta

“Anyone want to climb Mount Shasta the last week in August?

Here's the route:

ROUTE 1 - AVALANCHE GULCH
Most climbers, especially first time climbers, use Route 1, the Avalanche Gulch route beginning at the Bunny Flat trailhead. This route is one of the most popular and climbed routes in the United States and is also called the main route. It's considered non-technical which means you won't need ropes or belay devices, however, an ice axe and crampons are a must for climbing this route, even during the late summer when most of the snow is gone because the chimneys of the Red Banks remain icy.

The hiking distance from the Bunny Flat trailhead to the summit, using the Avalanche Gulch route, is about six vertical miles with an elevation gain of more than 7,000 feet. How long it takes to climb depends on the route selected, the snow conditions, and your physical condition. Although the trip can be done in one day, it is recommended (especially for inexperienced climbers) to accomplish the trip in two days by making an overnight base camp at Helen Lake at 10,443 feet. This gives you time to acclimate to the higher altitude and also allows you to tackle the summit after a good nights rest. It also gives you time to kick back in base camp and enjoy the Mountain.”

“Have you done this climb before? Not to be discouraging, but I think this is sorta late in the season to do a Shasta climb. The route you are proposing may still may be doable but it will be thrashed and ugly. Sun cupped, worn, dirty trail to the top, bare spots, etc. Not sure about the avalanche danger, maybe not from snow but falling rocks may be an issue. Definitely not good glissading. Helen Lake will be trashed as well from the thousands of climbers who have gone up before you and it is sure to be crowded when you are there. IMHO, if you can, go at the begining of June.”

“How 'bout that guy who climbed and skiied down Shasta something like 6 times in a 24 hour period? I forget the details but that seemed like quite an accomplishment.”

“So are you going to do it in 2 days or 1?”

“2 days”

“maybe. Except I'm supposed to be climbing Rainier a week later...”

“that is probably not going to happen though and this sounds easier Ü

When are you getting the permit?”

“As far as I can tell, there isn't a quota; so the permits are just picked up when you get up there.”

“WingDing, let's go. However, Late June or early July would probably be better. Also I think we (or I if you prefer) should call the Ranger Station. Just to make sure about the permits....”

“That priss biz climbing Mt. Rainier? Yes and I'm climbing K2 this year too! LOL”

“It looks like it'll take 4 days to do the trip. Two travel days and two hiking days. I could fly to Sacramento and then drive from there to reduce travel time. I can't do it 4th of July weekend because I have a Palisade Glacier trip planned. You don't think Mid-June would be too early?”

“The Palisade Glacier is very cool, wingding. Took the north fork of the Pine up there a few years back and camped at all the lakes up there, day tripped it to the glacier, etc. Good times and just spectacular scenery!”

“WLD (or anyone),
What kind of ice ax do you use? I have been looking at them, they are expensive.”

“Hey GS, is this you?

http://www.promountainsports.com/crampons.shtml”

“I know squat about Mt Shasta, but a friend has suggested a Labor Day trip there for some hiking. From what I read here that may not be very smart. Any advice from those who've been there?

Thanks.”

“hi and welcome. Are you new to this board?”

“No, I've been here awhile but changed my screen name recently.”

“Yeah...he's one of those new guys that hikes really, really slow ;)”

“Shawn was in the 5-day Sierrapalooza group under his old name.”

“what was your old name?

Why do you think it's a bad idea to hike Shasta over Labor Day weekend?”

“From posts earlier in this thread.

fka ldhiker”

“I wandered up Shasta last year over July 4th.

Of the 3 chutes in the Red Bank only #1 was still fully ice/snow, #3 was completely rock/scree.

Helen lake is a solar oven, Avalanche gulch is a big snow bowl that reflects the sun down toward Helen Lake like a big parabolic reflector. Take something like a spaceblanket as a tarp to reflect the sun off your tent.

There is no water at Helen lake so you have to melt snow. The lake has a funny red algae and is not to be used. July 4 was OK but Later in the season you will have a hike just to get snow to melt.
A black garbage bag to fill with snow and let the sun make water is a good labor and fuel saver.

I would not want to go later than the beginning of July as it will be hotter and snow for water will be harder to get and dirtier.

Do take a crampon pouch, large number of 'lost' ads from people who tied their crampons on for the glissade down, and got to the bottom and found crampons gone.”

“I still haven't made it to Shasta - I hear it's best to do it early i the season maybe June before too much snow melts.”

“Shasta is best earlier in the year as the snow cover makes it easier to move over scree and talus. Also, later in the year when the snow melts, rocks loosen and tumble making it much more dangerous. We were there in mid June and the snow was below the trailhead so this year peak climbing season extended beyond normal years.”

“We have a very authoritative source here on TT for Shasta, Mtn Steve. He used to run a SAR team there if I'm not mistaken, I'll send him an e' & ask him to check in for you guys.”

“If Shasta proves to be too much, you can always fall back to nearby Castle Crags SP.”

“Thank you all. Sounds like an climb to the top is not the thing to do this time of year.”

“Shawn, all things considered, there are still lots of folks who do climb this time of the year. Also there are many short day hikes that can be extended into multi day trips by going off trail.”

“I just got back from a 10 day and saw Wanderer's email....heres my 2 cents....

I can't say what it will be like in the next 3 weeks, but right now it actually is in pretty good shape, epecially for this time of year.

The heavy and late snows, put a heavy snow pack on the mountain. It's recommended you summit by 11:00 am, to avoid rock fall, which is actually low for this time of year... that will change as the snow pack melts. The only reliable water is at Horsecamp (tested clean) the rest of the way you will need to melt snow.

I recommend you call "The Fifth Season" snow phone at 530-241-4907 for current route information.

Another great resource for the mountain is the Shasta Avalanche Page

You can also go directly to the Mt. Shasta Wilderness Climbing Advisory for current info.

Let me know if your going to go for it...I might be able to hike part way with ya, I have a cache I need to check on.”

“This link is currently down, but I recommend you save it, it's a cam showing Mt Shasta. They should get it back and working soon, the thunder storms we recently had took it out.

I think you will be surprised at the amount of snow still on the mountain......but it's melting fast.”

“That phone number for the Fifth Season is actually...
530-926-5555

The report is usually updated every day or so.”