Midnight Hole and Mouse Creek Falls

“I arrived at GSMNP's Big Creek CG at 9:30 PM, Wed., May 15th. Only one of 12 tent sites remained available and I quickly set up my 1-man, Eureka Zephyr Tent. Threw in an old, lightweight pad, a large, heavy-weight sleeping bag, one pillow and an empty, 1-gallon, plastic milk bottle, paid my Golden Age Passport-rate $6, and I was ready for the night. I relaxed at the picnic table until 10:45. The CG was dead, not one fire was blazing nor were any other people up and socializing.

Up early, I completed my morning duties by 7:05. The CG was still and I was reluctant to break camp and wake people. The CG paths are now wider with gravel fill and it is impossible to walk quietly. These paths and the improved gravel roads will soon be paved, I expect. This area has experienced considerable development since its' days as a primitive CG.

Nearby Mountain Mama's would not open until 8, so I moved out on the path behind the restroom and followed it up the hill to the Big Creek Trail. Thought that I could walk quickly to the Midnight Hole and return shortly after 8. Well, it took 40 minutes to reach the spot at 1.4 miles. From the trailhead there is an elevation gain of about 1,250 feet (in 5 miles) before Walnut Bottoms. I am beginning to believe that most of the gain occurs in the first two miles. However, it felt refreshing to be on the trail.

The Midnight Hole looked much smaller than I remembered. And the creek cascaded into the pond through some cracks in the large boulder, instead of flowing over the top in a nice waterfall. The water's path took at least two 90 degree turns in the boulder. And the boulders across the creek seemed much smaller. Although all the landmarks were there, I pushed them aside in my mind. Told myself that this must be a false Midnight Hole and the real one was probably just a little further uptrail. I knew that I was lying to myself, but I continued hiking uptrail. After a few minutes I saw some other landmarks that I recognized and I knew that I was past The Midnight Hole. Well, so what I thought, let's continue to the Mouse Creek Falls. It took 20 minutes to arrive there, at 2.1 miles. The falls are scenic, falling about 20 feet in two stages to reach Big Creek. A splash pond at the midpoint in the falls is probably part of the old railroad grade. When the flow is strong, the fall appears almost continuous as a single stage from the top to the bottom.

Heading back, it took 5 and 10 minutes less, respectively, to hike the two segments. So, uptrail I averaged 2.1 mph and downtrail, 2.8 mph. It had been several years since my last hike here. I noticed, as in other sections of the park, that erosion continues. Much of the trail was now quite rocky, having lost most of the topsoil. The horses contribute strongly to this erosion. I regretted wearing tennis shoes as I received a very sore heel that lasted for two days. I observed that the area around the trail was different from other areas in the park. There were no flowers. Only one bush had a few remaining blossoms. But the trail is scenic and worth the hike.

During the return I encountered two old-timers, that is, young-timers. (They were younger than me and although approaching 70, I still feel young.) They were headed upstream for some fishing and claimed to have experienced good fishing in Big Creek for more than 50 years. One of them was a real source of information. He recalled that the area around us had been referred to as 'the ball field.' He told about how the entire area had been stripped of trees and the current trees, just starting to grow 50 years ago, had diameters of about 1 to 1.5 inches. Mouse Creek Falls could not be seen because of thick brush. It was necessary to continue uptrail another 0.1 mile to the bridge across the creek and return along the railroad bed to observe the falls. He said Big Creek was much, much bigger and higher than it is now. With almost no vegetation or tree roots to hold back the water, everything flowed down into the creek. Now, he continued, all these tree roots are holding back the drainage. I wanted to hear more, but I had many miles to travel.

I hiked to the trailhead and looped past the picnic area to return to the CG. Thus, I avoided a steep decline on the other path as it leaves the trail.

I was hungry and immediately drove to Mountain Mama's. There, I enjoyed a blueberry muffin, two cups of coffee, and a good visit. I have become such a good friend there since they arrived 10 years ago, that for years my coffee has been free. Drove back to the CG, broke camp and continued my trip.

Picked up my 18-year old daughter in Iowa, where she just completed her freshman year of college. Camped at a small state park on a lake (creek). Found the dam that supports the lake after a short, but enjoyable hike in some woods. The dam had two levels, with a long holding basin between the spillways. Two men were fishing the basin, amidst some jumping fish. I hiked a little further, intrigued by many birds in the vicinity. Discovered several earth embankments that had been required to block the lake's water. Sat. morning the tarp over my tent and the car were heavily coated with ice! Took this daughter to MN, where I introduced her to her 35 year old sister and I met my 10-year old granddaughter and her mother for the first time. Took the group and my ex-wife, whom I had not seen for 30 years, to dinner at an Olive Garden and to Sun. breakfast at Perkins. We all had a good time, including the ex. She has wanted me in jail, dead, or both for 30 years. However, blocking my path after dinner, she gave me a hug and a kiss on the cheek. Wow, what a change in attitude!

Drove 3,710 miles in less than one week. Watch out for a speed trap on I-65 in KY. I got a ticket.”

“It sounds like that trip had a little bit of everything...


I don't know what it is with the folks who run these parks. They seem to think 'improved' is synonymous with 'paved over'.

We did a dayhike from Mt. Sterling down to Big Creek a few years ago, in the Fall. The leaves covered all the ankle-breaker rocks that the horses had kicked up. Boy, was I glad to have sturdy boots that time.”

“Tilt - It sounds like you were on the Baxter Creek Trail. Horses are not permitted there. However, some ride their horses the 0.5 miles down from the top to get water! The upper mile or so of the trail is the only part where I recall many rocks or stones. Of course, a slip on one stone under the leaves will make you suspect that there are many more.

I accept your words, especially since the leaves were covering everything. However, it is interesting since I describe that trail as one of the softest and smoothest in the park. I have observed a lot of soft dirt, moss and needles on most of the trail. I suspect that you may have been stepping on some pine cones, too.

It is a real workout going up that trail with a full bp. The first and last miles each gain about 500 feet. And each of the other four miles gain about 750 feet, about a steady 15% grade. FYI, about .3 or .4 mile from the trailhead, the trail starts uphill in earnest as it turns away from Big Creek. There is a side trail that continues near the creek for 0.1 mi. or so. It leads to some old homesteads, where there remains a large chimney about 3-stories high.

I have hiked in knee-high leaves on the Big Fork Ridge Trail out of the Cataloochee Valley. This concentration of leaves in a flat depression was only a short distance from the Rough Fork Road. Fall is beautiful in GSMNP and I plan to be there again this fall.

How did you get up to Mt. Sterling? It is a good hike from any approach. Did you experience some clear views and capture any on film?”

“Great job of writing up your trip.. you make me want to go see those places soon!”

“Thanks, TownDawg. That was kinda for you, since you asked about The Midnight Hole and Mouse Creek Falls previously.

It sounds like you had a great weekend. I'm looking forward to the report.

Then there is a message there for the guy that thinks that he is going to get a tent site at Cataloochee late at night in late June! There were several disappointed site seekers who arrived after I got the last spot.

And, WOW, all that from a two hour hike. Wait until I do two months this fall!
Heck, I already have it composed, so here it is in advance:

Start: 203 pounds
Finish: 173 pounds”

“I guess that was about 1994. Looking at the map (also circa 1994), the horses weren't supposed to go further north of Site 38 (right near the tower?). Maybe they raked the trail since then? <GRIN>

I took two rolls of 24, I believe, including about 15 overlapping exposures to form a 360-panorama of sorts from the fire tower. One of these days I'll get the software to 'stitch' them together and put them up on the 'Net. I think you can do that with Quicktime VR, but I'm not sure.”

“Hey noslimmer, I'm the guy you mentioned about Cataloochee. I was planning on reserving a site. Will they let me do that? Last year I reserved a backcountry site 30 days before my trip. I wasn't sure if they'd let me reserve a regular campsite. I hope so, or like you say, I'm screwed.

Great report and glad you had a great time!”

“dayhiker - Unless there has been a recent change, reservations are possible only at Elkmont, Cades Cove, and Smokemont. Cataloochee now has a lot more traffic because of the Elk. It is a 10 mile trip over a mountain range to get to the valley, half of it on a twisting, dirt road. Cosby and Look Rock are overflow areas and are seldom filled.

No problem, you're a backpacker. Drive to the end of the road, which says closed at sundown, but has always been open. Take a minimum of gear and hike in an easy 1.5 miles to CS#40 for the night. Or, park at the traillhead for CS#39. It is almost as easy a hike and about 1.9 miles. But, who knows? You might hit it lucky and find a selection of open sites at the Cataloochee CG. But at that time of the year the odds are not real good.

On this last trip I was prepared to continue to Cosby, if Big Creek had been filled.”

“Don't forget to fill out a form at the Ranger Station along the road in the valley.”

“Thanks for the info on the overflow sites. I had been thinking of maybe using #39 or #40 instead of the regular sites, but not everyone on the trip is a backpacker. That may still be the way to go. I have one guy coming in from DC. Since you and I last "talked" he has decided to leave Thursday afternoon and head on in. If he showed up late Thursday night he could lock in the site for the weekend. How realistic is that idea?”

“dayhiker - I'm not sure to which site you are referring. If it is in the developed CG at Cataloochee (or any developed CG), someone is supposed to occupy the site each night. The backcountry CS#40 and CS#39 do not require a confirmed reservation, unless they are part of a trip with one or more restricted (confirmed reservation required) sites in the itinerary. You just fill out a trip form and drop it in the box. A tent at a backcountry site is supposed to be occupied each night. (You could always claim that you are a night hiker.)

Cataloochee CG is a good place for socializing. You might meet some old-timers, who lived in the area prior to the park, or descendents. You might experience a good musical group. One never knows. I've had a number of great experiences there. Down the road past the trailhead for CS#39, across the creek via a log bridge, is a spring fed pool under an aluminum sheet. The chemical-free water makes great coffee.”

“I worded that poorly. Do you think the guy coming in on Thursday would have a good chance of being able to get a Cataloochee site that night and then reserving it til Saturday? He would be there Thur and Fri and then the rest of the group shows up Saturday.

Thanks for all your help.”

“3 PM - 70 percent
4 PM - 60 percent
5 PM - 50 percent
6 PM - 40 percent
7 PM - 30 percent
8 PM - 20 percent

It's a guess!

You don't exactly reserve it. You occupy a site and then pay for it, up to 7 consecutive days.

If he misses on Thursday, he can look for a private CG or a motel. Then, at 9 AM on Friday he have a 99 percent probability of getting a site. I even know of places where one can camp free in the forest east of GSMNP, but it is too hard to explain.”

“Thanks again. I'll bet it would be hard for him to get to the park at a decent hour on Thursday anyway. Getting there early Friday make s more sense. We'll go that route.

Here's my hike plan, if interested.

I've recommended the cousin do Anthony Creek to Bote Mtn to AT to Russell Field and back to Anthony creek. It's a pretty rough hike, but that's what he's looking for. He's climbed Katahdin a few and wants a climb.

Saturday the full group(about 5) will do Twentymile to Long Hungry Ridge to Gregory Bald and out.

Sunday we'll probably do Boogerman and some surroundy trails.

I can't wait!”

“dayhiker -

ICataloochee Valley - Part 1
ICataloochee Valley - Part 2
Little Cataloochee Valley”

“Thanks for the links. Those are great.”