Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

“I took off early from work last Wednesday for the U.P. Four hours into the trip, I finally see the Big Mac bridge and become really giddy. I love the U.P. I was so excited to be there again. Jodi and I camped at Woodland Park in Grand Marais that night. Went to a local micro brew for a quick bite and some decent beer. We watched the sun set over Lake Superior, and got a good night sleep before we started hiking on Thursday. So good, in fact, that we didn’t wake up until 9:30. Amazing that a crowded RV park could stay quiet that long.

We packed up camp in a drizzle Thursday morning, and then found the Visitor’s Center in Grand Marais. We picked up our permit, then started down a bumpy dirt road to drop off my car at Log Slide. Continued on the same bumpy, windy road for about another hour to get to our starting point at the Chapel trailhead. I proceeded to become slightly car sick on the ride, but quickly recovered once we got out of the car. We started hiking about 1PM on Thursday.

We took the long way around the Chapel area, toward Mosquito Falls and Mosquito Beach for an 8 mile day. The names don’t lie. The 100% deet we had with us looked to be in short supply at the rate we were using it. Once we finally got to the shore, the bugs let up a little. We came across an elderly man with Parkinson’s disease, carrying a small day pack and a camera tri-pod. He was from Indiana (I think) and told us about some of the places he’d photographed. He ended up doing a full 10 mile day, which we were quite impressed with at his age, and the heat and bugs. The scenery through that area was incredible. Sandstone cliffs, some as high as 200 feet, stained by minerals. Grand Portal Point was the highlight of our day. Its basically a flat, open beach, a couple hundred feet in the air. The views from it were gorgeous. But the real highlight was the fly-by of a military jet. We heard the engine in the distance, looked up to see him fly almost directly overhead, and the real roar of the jet came a few seconds later.

We saw very few people on the trail that day, except for the old man, who caught up with us at Chapel Beach. We saw little wildlife, but lots of flora, including pink lady slipper orchids.

We camped at Chapel Beach that night. The bugs were still pretty bad, but better down by the water. The camp squirrel stole one of my rice krispie treats before we got the food hung. I was so ticked off at him! We took our food and stove down to the beach, and sat there until the sun set. To our left was Battle Ship row, a series of 5 (or maybe 7??) rock formations that look like battle ships. To our right was Chapel Rock, an almost perfectly round formation, with pillars holding up layers of rock, much like the tiers of a wedding cake would look. A single tree grows out of the top of the rock, with roots reaching through mid-air to the main land. There is also a small waterfall at the beach, warm enough to bathe in, or just sit in to cool off. The sun didn’t set until 9:40PM.

We woke up to some rain the next morning, and decided to sleep until till it passed. At 10:30, we woke up again, and got ready to head out. The day was cool, probably in the low 70’s, but still very buggy inland. We had about 30-40 mosquitoes sitting on the tent, waiting for us to emerge. Luckily, most of the trail that day was along the shoreline. The trail was again absolutely gorgeous, but much more sandy. We went from the beach that morning, back to high cliffs, and back down to 12 Mile Beach. We had lunch on another sandstone cliff, much like Grand Portal Point.

The color of the water near the cliffs is blue-green, like the Caribbean. But the water temperature of Superior is much different! The sand on the beaches makes a sound like a zipper when you walk in it, or run your hand over it. Must have something to do with the shape of the grains of sand.

We passed over Beaver Creek, and though the campground there, to our camp at Pine Bluff for a 6 mile day. We were the only ones in camp that night. The black flies were pretty thick in camp, but not too bad down by the water again. So we sat at the beach for a while, I did some agate hunting, but didn’t have much luck. I did end up with a couple rocks in my pack for my niece, though. One is a cool crescent-shaped black stone. We took our dinner down there again, but didn’t stay long, as it looked like heavy rain was rolling in. It wasn’t a tough choice between being eaten alive by the mosquitoes and black flies, or Uno in the tent.

We crawled into bed before the sun set that night. But we could see the bright orange glow on the trees outside the tent. Jodi got up and braved the flies to it, and called me to come out too. The sky cleared just enough so the sun could have one last show of the day, and it was a stunning.

It rained again that night, and was warm and hazy the next morning (Saturday). We again packed up camp, after being gnawed on by a few more vermin. Went down to the beach to filter water, and finally gave up. Having 60 black flies swarm you within seconds caused us to loose all hope. We were calling it quits. I had so many bites on my body, including my butt. They don’t leave you alone while you’re peeing. Even the deet wasn’t helping at this point. The next decision was to hike out the 14 miles to my car, or 10 back to Jodi’s car, taking the short way around Chapel. We knew the trail behind us was easy, so we forfeited the chance of seeing some more cool things ahead of us. The bugs were so bad that day, even stopping to filter water became annoying. We couldn’t sit to have a bite to eat or take a break. It sucked.

We got back to the Chapel trailhead about 2PM. The last two miles we talked about getting an air-conditined, bug-free motel room, a shower, a nice mattress, and a beer. We drove to Munising, found a nice place in town, bought some shampoo and razors at the drug store, and got clean. Headed to the Dog Patch for a burger and that beer. It came highly recommended by the drug store clerk, and an old professor of mine who used to hang out there. We also drove back to Log Slide that night to get my car, and by some stroke of luck never hit a deer on the road. Only saw 11 in the 1-hour drive. Pretty slow night by U.P. standards.

There used to be a wooden Log Slide, from the Grand Sable sand dunes to the shore line. The wooden structure has been covered in sand by the wind over the years. The slope of the dunes had to be a 45-50 degree slope. We didn’t go all the way down, because the sun had already set. Had some nice views of the dunes themselves, and of the Au Sable Lighthouse.

One reason we stayed in town on Sunday was to take the boat tour out to the rocks the next day. The other reason was it was a 8-hour drive home for Jodi, and at least 6 for me, and we didn’t feel like sitting in the car after a 10 mile hike that day. Anyway, we got up for the 10AM tour, but a thick fog covered the harbor. The boat tour went out, but we didn’t get far before we turned back around. We were pretty bummed we couldn’t see the rocks from a different vantage point.

We visited a few gift shops, and then found a local bar serving homemade pasties. From there we headed out, Jodi back to Minneapolis, and me downstate, to my parent’s house.

Even though we had to cut the trip short, it was still a great hike, and I’d do it again. Jodi is a good friend from college, and is considering doing the AT next year. We’d never hiked together, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat. Just not with the bugs.”

“I will post pictures next week...when I get then developed!”

“The bugs really are in control in the UP, eh?

Glad you had fun. Hope your butt is better!! :)”

“Sounds like you had fun for the most part. I hope to get up there next year.”

“Glad you had a good time and a good hiking partner. Getting clean is so welcome after a few days on the trail. Too bad about the bugs but...
Can't wait for the pics!!”

“The u.p is strictly off limits for me in the Months of June and July. You couldn't drag me there!

Great trip report.”

“I get giddy whenever I go to the U.P. Once I saw the bridge, a huge smile came across my face, and my eyes got misty. I love the U.P. anytime, especially summer. I just don't like the backwoods bugs!

I'm taking the film in today. Jodi sent me a couple pictures, but the resolution isn't the best. And Webshots won't accept the format they're in, so I can't post them.”

“If the road gets windy, I have to be in the drivers seat.

I've only been attacked by flies in the local mountains. With the bandanas over our faces and glasses we looked like aliens. Sounds like you had a nice trip. The formations sound pretty cool! Looking forward to pics!”

“There is a picture of me with my bug net on. Not sure if that will get posted or not. :)”

“Smiley, how I feel for you. We're originally from the U.P., L'Anse and I winced every time you mentioned black-flies. The best times to see the Upper are spring and fall. Fall colors can't be described! Anxious to see your photos.

Dog Patch, I seem to remember spending a week there one night, but don't tell the wife. ;-)”

“I know what you mean about the bugs the club was backpacking at nordhouse dunes last weekend and the flys were just too much!!!

8)”

“Geezr, I went to school in the U.P., and although the fall colors are incredible, summer is still my favorite time. I think that's because I squeezed more into the summers I stayed at school than I did durnig the school year. When that snow finally thaws, its time to get out of the house (or dorm, or bar....)

L'Anse, huh? We used to stop at the Hilltop for those big cinnamon rolls. Yummy.”

“Hey, Smiley, do you know anything about the Huron Mountains? Are they open to the public?”

“Nope, Sorry RL. Don't know anything about them. Maybe Pekka knows something. Or Geezr.”

“Finally got some pictures posted.

http://community.webshots.com/user/smiley_girl101

I can't do that fancy HTML stuff, so you'll have to cut an paste.”

“Oh crap, the resolution is horrible. Stupid IT guys....”

“That's OK Smiley Girl, they are still great pictures. It is one of my favorite places in Mich. Anywhere along Lake Superior is just awesome!”

“It looks like they turned the compression factor up too high, trying to get the size down.”

“So sorry to hear about the insects...they can be a real drag and make a great trip not so enjoyable...but it is the memory that was created for you and your friend that is the important happening...happy trails.”

“Cool pics! :-)”

“Great photos. Looks like you had sunny weather. My photos always have rain and fog in the background.”

“its beautiful there, great pictures!! Id love to go there, (minus the bugs)”

“I may be in Michigan in a couple weeks. Are the bugs down by now?”

“Steve Hiker, you talking upper or lower penninsula? Bugs down here havn't been too bad, IMO. Black flies should be all gone up north by now. Better check with our resident yooper, Sunshine.”

“FYI, from the March 15 Detroit Free Press U.P. news column:

MUNISING, Mich. (AP) -- Officials have increased the rates for backcountry camping at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

The price increase is being implemented due to increased costs, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Superintendent Karen Gustin told The Mining Journal of Marquette.

Previously, the backcountry camping rate was $15 for parties of between one and six people and $30 for groups of seven to 20 campers.

New rates include a $15 non-refundable reservation fee and a $5 per person, per night camping fee. As a result, the cost of two people spending two nights in the backcountry at the park has increased from $15 to $35.

In addition, a maximum of 14 nights stay for groups has been set for the park for each year. This is implemented to prevent certain groups from monopolizing camping at the most popular sites in the park sought by a great number of visitors, officials said.

Drive-in campground fees will remain $10 per campsite, per night. No reservations are available for the park's three drive-in campsites at Little Beaver Lake, Twelvemile Beach and the Hurricane River. ------”

“Sticking it to the hiker.

Thanks for the info, pekka. Too bad that rates have doubled. Is there anything out there that DID NOT go up in the last few!?!”

“>>Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Superintendent Karen Gustin<<

She used to be the Supt. at Effigy Mounds National Monument near me. I did a story with her when national gov. park funds were tight. Took a photo of her, heavier gear (it was that time of year), arms crossed, looking at the locked gate. It was when the parks temporarily shut down.”

“Still costs about the same as most other places around here. If two hikers are going. Solo hikers will get the shaft with the resevation fee.”

“The tree on the rock with the root suspended over air connecting to the mainland was an awsome sight. I got a nice pic of it last October, and only wish I knew how to scan a slide.”

“Grand Marias"
"Munising"
"Dog Patch"
"fall colors"...

Oh, the rush of memories!

Thanks for bringing them back, smelly!”

“(btw, this is tarabull posting)”

“Howdy Wolfbull!”

“awesome pics, mataharihiker!! wish i was scared to fly in little planes. i'd really enjoy those views.”

“wow! those pictures are incredible!!

someone get maple over here to see the kayaks!!


Lake Superior is at the top of the "food chain" in the great lakes basin. Its the most clear and pristine lake of all 5. The water from Lake Superior flows into Lakes Michigan and Huron, etc. down the line. Erie, being at the bottom of the chain, gets to collect all the pollutants, and unfortunaly is not the healthiest of the great lakes.”