Adirondacks - Labor Day weekend

“I'll be heading up to the Adirondacks Labor Day weekend, thinking of climbing Algonquin, the second tallest in the 'Daks at 5114'. Figured Marcy would be jam-packed since it's a holiday weekend, hence the trek up Algonquin. I haven't planned much beyond that at this point, but wanted to gauge interest in who else wants to maybe come along.”

“My interest is gauged! I've only been to the Daks once, snowshoeing at Siamese Ponds, so anything else will be new to me.”

“this sucks.

i can't go, as i'm moving.

i'm going to climb the 1,200 ft. hill in my backyard, SO THERE!!!

yeah, i knew it. you're jealous.”

“How are you going up? From Colden or Adirondak Loj?”

“oohhh, oohhh, me me!! this sounds fun and skeery :-) so tell me, how many hours do you think it would take me to drive there from DC? i've never been anywhere near the Adirondacks...”

“Geobeet, not sure which route yet. I was eyeing my maps, and I found a few that looked pretty sweet..

Lyra, I just looked at yahoo driving directions, looks like it'd be about a 7 hour drive from where you are. The 'Daks are incredible though, it'd be well worth the drive.

I'll do more research and post a more solid suggested itinerary early next week.”

“okay, cool! that's not bad at all...it takes me almost that long to get to my parents' house in WV, and i do that all the time. i'm sure you're right, it would definitely be worth it. eeeekk, i'm excited!”

“lyra excited? How can you tell?”

“I bet the people where you work really appreciate that...”

“yeah, it keeps their attention away from the fact that i don't actually do any work. kidding, kidding!!




i did some just last week.”

“The trail up from Colden is killer-diller. It follows a bedrock creek bed for awhile. You have to follow the brown marks left by hiking boots so you know when it cuts back into the forest.

Nearly pitched headlong off that trail while coming down the last time I did Algonquin (early 90s or so).

Algonquin is my second favorite peak in the Daks, after Gothics. Haystack is not bad either, but not quite up to Gothics and Algonquin.”

“The trail up from Adirondak Loj passes a nice little waterfall. Nice spot to munch some jerky!”

“Sounds good Geobeet, I'll check out both of those routes, thanks for the info! Seeing some waterfalls would be pretty sweet.”

“Yah sure...”

“The trail from the Loj is also much more direct. To get to the other trail you either have to go through Avalanche Pass (a really scenic place, along with the lake) or hump over the MacIntyre range from Indian Pass Brook.

Lake Colden and Marcy Dam are where the worst of the bear problems occur, mostly because people up there seem to think that hanging food from the roof of the lean-to will protect it from bears (du-uh!). But Colden is also a very beautiful spot in which to camp.”

“Heck, I'm actually hoping to see some bears! I think we may just have to camp at one of those two spots...”

“I ran into some guys who got raided by what they said was a 400-pound bear at Colden. I didn't believe them until I saw a hind footprint in the mud. That was the day, in fact, when I climbed Algonquin.

It's been eight years since I've been there and I assume they have addressed the bear problem since then. But if I wanted to see bears in the Daks, Lake Colden is where I would head. Just hang the food high.”

“Oops...

Be glad it is only the bears you have to worry about.”

“yeah, Australia is apparently a crazy place! i just got Bill Bryson's *In A Sunburned Country* (about his travels there) yesterday...so far, it's really really good.”

“I would suggest coming in from the Lower Works (or is upper works?)parking. You would take 28N to Tahawus. You wind up leaving 87 much earlier than if you drove up to Lake Placid. Also there is no fee for parking....its way back there. You could hike into the flowed lands and either make camp there or continue on and camp at Colden. The flowed lands is where the Opalescent forms, which is a major source of the Hudson River.
The route up Algonquin from Colden is pretty cool. You follow a stream for most of the way and the trail leads up bare sections of rock.

Just my 2 cents.”

“That sounds pretty sweet Adventurist, thanks!”

“I'll second that suggestion.

On the way you will pass the largest open pit titanium mine in the world, if it's still in operation.

Archibald McIntyre was the name of a guy who owned an iron furnace near the Upper Works (you can see the furnace as you drive slowly by. It's on the left). He had a hard time making ends meet because there was an impurity that was difficult and expensive to remove. The furnace eventually went belly-up. The impurity turned out to be titanium.

David Henderson was the manager of the furnace. He died in a hunting accident at Calamity Pond (there is a memorial there). Henderson was in the first party to ascend Marcy. He also rued the fact that in the 1830s it took three days to get a letter from Trenton, where he lived, to Albany, where McIntyre lived, by stage coach. The Postal Service doesn't do any better with all its automated sorting equipment, trucks, jeeps, planes.

The McIntyre range is named for Archibald.”

“Here's some stuff I had found a year ago, and saved:


The following message was posted by joe (jfponeill@aol.com) on Wednesday, July 11th at 2:58:30 PM

Rascott, Mt Marcy and the High Peaks Region in general are a great wilderness experience, at least they were 7-8 years ago when I last backpacked there. If you only have 2 days, and are quite fit, I recommend leaving right after breakfast on day 1 for the Avalanche Pass Trail (just past Marcy Dam) to Lake Colden and Lake Colden dam (6 or so fairly mild miles,) then 4 rugged miles or so up the far less crowded and quite beautiful back side of Mt Marcy via Opalescent Brook, Lake Tear of the Clouds (source of Hudson River)trails,etc. Weather's extremely and quickly variable, so bring layers to don in a hurry the last 800' or so. Should take 4-6 hours depending on your condition. Go back down quite directly the 7 or so miles/2-3 hours on the other side (van Hoevenberg trail, I believe) to Marcy Dam and Loj. Mt. Algonquin, 2nd highest high peak, makes a nice second day trip. Recommend you get "Guide to Adirondack Trails: High Peaks Region" beforehand, published by the Adirondack Mountain CLub, for exact trail names, distances, weather warnings, etc. Happy hiking. Joe






The following message was posted by Andy B (abehrend@hewm.com) on Wednesday, July 11th at 10:21:01 PM

Joe's route is a good one as long as you are in good shape. It's a long day, but it's worth it to see (1) Avalanche Pass and (2) that great area between Lake Colden and the summit of Marcy. If you're REALLY fit, add on a quick zip up Skylight from Four Corners (this is the trail junction between Marcy and Skylight). This will add a good hour or more, and about 650 more feet of vertical, but Skylight is a neat, remote peak with phenomenal view of Marcy, Haystack and the Great Range. I would suggest this option only if you're in great shape to start, arrive at Four Corners during the middlie of the day, and are feeling pretty perky at Four Corners.


On day two, if you're still gung ho, climb Algonquin by the shortest route and tack on a side trip to Wright Peak. You can also go over to Iroquois and back from Algonquin, but beware the haul back over Algonquin. Otherwise, you have to drop back to Avalanche Lake again and go out the way you went in to Marcy. If you do the Marcy trip w/Skylight the day before and then all 3 of the MacIntyre Range (Algonquin et al), my hat's off to you. But why push it.


If you're tired on Day Two, but not so tired you want to skip climbing altoghether, you could try Cascade and Porter after a short drive from the Loj, or hike back to the Marcy Dam area and climb Phelps, or hike into fantastic Indian Pass (trail goes right from the Loj) for less climbing, but mindblowing scenery looking up instead of down. You can sometimes find midsummer snow pockets down under Indian Pass boulders! Have a great time.




The following message was posted by Sue on Thursday, July 12th at 8:47:03 AM

Lots of good advice above, so I won't repeat it, except to add that in the ADKS some of the "downs"--the passes--are every bit as beautiful as the summits. Avalanche and Indian Pass are wonderful, so I'd try to work them into your trip. Don't miss the "Hitchup Matildas," as in "Hitch up your skirts, Matilda."

”

“Avalanche Lake and Pass are special. I call it the Hall of the Mountain King. It does not look like it's part of the east coast.

The trail from Colden to Marcy via the Opalescent is another great trail. The flume is spectacular, and Lake Tear is neat too. Uphill LT is a nice area, and I've never had bear problems up there. The b'ars seem to get tired and turn back down to Colden after a certain distance. I did see my first (and still the only one) jumping mouse at Uphill. The climb from Uphill to Four corners is steep approaching Lake Tear from below.

Beaver had added a couple feet elevation to the surface of Lake Tear in '92.

Four corners is about the nicest lunch break spot I've ever seen.”

“There is a parking lot on the right before you get to Upper Works parking. You can take a trail that leads along a river then takes you past Hanging Spear Falls then up to the flowed lands but on the opposite side. Then you can cross over the outlet of the flowed lands (no bridge) and
go to Colden Lake from there.
On your way back take the other trail that leads along Calamity Brook down to Upper Works.

Note: The trail that leads past Hanging Spear Falls is to the point of a bushwack....but that adds to the feeling that you are taking the path less traveled!”

“Okay, I just looked at my maps and I'm thinking the route Adventurist and Geobeet suggested sounds pretty sweet.

It's about a 4 1/2 hour drive for me, but for some of you who expressed interest in going it would be much longer. What time would you guys want to meet on Saturday? We could meet a bit later in the day and do the approximately 4 mile hike to Laked Colden or the Flowed Lands (they're right next to each other) and camp there at one of the designated areas. We'd be just a few miles from Aonquin if we did that. I wouldn't want to meet too late in the day, out of fear of not being able to secure a site, especially on a holiday weekend. It looks like there are about 9 lean-tos in those areas, and there'll likely be other additoinal tent areas nearby (Adventurist, Geobeet, or anyone, can you confirm this?).

We could go the basecamp route, and dayhike up to Alonquin and Wright Peak. Looks like there's a really cool 8-10 mile loop with lots of elevation changes that goes over those peaks and down to Marcy Dam, through Avalanche pass, and back to Lake Colden and the Flowed Lands. If these peaks are anything like the three Dixs, Hough, and Macomb that I did, basecamping is the way to go. Them peaks were reeeeeeeeeal buttkickers!!!!

What do you guys think? Adventurist and Geobeet, or any others who have done this route, I would love to hear your thoughts on this! :-)”

“I'm up for anything, but the basecamp thing sounds pretty good. I like the idea of leaving the heavy gear behind and hitting the peaks.

Time isn't a factor. When I went to Acadia, I left home at 9pm so I could hit the Maine coast at sunrise.”

“Wow, Pennsy, you really are a ninja! In that case, I'm thinking we meet sometime between 11am and noon?

Here are directions to the trailhead per Mapquest. I'd HIGHLY recommend buying a road map of the area for a visual reference. I've only been to the 'Daks once before and it was to a different area, so I probably wouldn't be able to give any more information than what is below:

1: Merge onto I-87 N. 72.71 miles

2: Take the RT-8 exit- exit number 25- towards CHESTERTOWN/HAGUE. 0.32 miles

3: Turn RIGHT onto NY-8. 0.07 miles

4: Turn LEFT onto SCHROON RIVER RD. 4.62 miles

5: SCHROON RIVER RD becomes GLENDALE RD. 0.76 miles

6: Turn LEFT onto US-9. 0.45 miles

7: Turn RIGHT onto OLMSTEDVILLE RD. 5.97 miles

8: OLMSTEDVILLE RD becomes CR-29. 1.71 miles

9: Turn SLIGHT RIGHT onto NY-28N. 16.15 miles

10: Turn RIGHT onto CR-2/TAHAWUS RD. 0.25 miles

11: Turn SLIGHT RIGHT onto TAHAWUS RD. 1.37 miles

*12: Turn left on Upper Works Road.. follow to the end of the road for the trailhead.

* = I derived this last step from looking at a map, since I couldn't manipulate Mapquest for said final step.

It looks like Upper Works leads turns into a "medium duty road", which could mean it's possibly a dirt road? Dunno.”

“So what is the itinerary? There's like a 3% chance I can come up for a day, probably Sunday (but maybe Saturday)....”

“Artex and Geobeet: Upper Works to Lake Colden via Flowed lands is a tough walk. Lake Colden to Algonquin is a killer - really hard. It would save you driving time, however, Artex.

It would be fun to meet you guys; Artex and I did Macomb, Hough, East and South dix on the July 4 week-end and I had a great time. Another buddy and I did Allen a couple of weeks later and now I only have Couchsascraga, Panther and Santanoni left.

I've been invited to a pig roast cum blast that week-end, but have been thinking about driving up to see my daughter in northern Ontario.

BTW, bears are a real problem and this situation has become worse since 1999. The lean-to at Avalanche Pass, just before 'misery mile' has even been equipped with steel cables for bear bags.

I did Skylight, Gray, Redfield and one other whose name escapes me from the 4 corners by Tear of the Clouds a couple of years ago and it was just beautiful.

Have a good one.”

“Gremlin, good to hear from you! Thanks for the advice, the hike sounds like the buttkicker I was looking for. If you're other plans fall through, don't hesitate to join us!”

“I think that most of the Lean-tos are gone. There may be 2-3 at Lake Colden but I don't remember there being many more. There is a section at Lake Colden that they were trying to revamp. I would recommend calling ahead and seeing how restrictive the camping is there and how many lean-tos are left. Lake Colden is going to be your most convenient location if you decide to do the route you are talking about. I don't see a problem with you guys doing that route in one day with daypacks. BUT, it will kick your butt and it will feel like you did more like 12-15 miles by the end of the day!

Avalanche Lake is definitely interesting!

Wish I was going!”

“Looks like we're in for a butt-kicking Artex. Cool, that's what you wanted!

I've got maps galore so I'll check out the directions. Do you have any idea how far it is from the trailhead to where we would be basecamping?

11-12 timeframe is fine with me. I'm used to getting up early. Come on Fritz! If you go I'll even let you ride with me, and I promise not to eat all your cookies this time.”

“Looks like it'd be about 5-6 miles to where we'd set up basecamp. Glad the timeframe works for you, let's go ahead and plan on that.

Hey Fritz, come on, you gotta go!! If you do, I'll bring extra cookies to make up for the ones that Pennsy Hiker claims he won't eat but will anyway. Be great if you could make it.”

“Just wanted to add that the chipmunks and squirrels are absolutely ruthless up there. They'll stop at nothing to get to your bear bag. Pennsy, I know you have a canister, but if anyone else comes, bring the sturdiest and most durable bag you have. Even then they'll probably reach it and chew right through it, regardless of how well you hang your bag.”

“If I had bag chewed apart by a chipmunk or other rodents I would just say....

"Thats not my bag, Baby!"”

“from cincy? im looking for something that weekend but i don't want to drive all night to get home on monday.”

“I just did the mapquest thing. It's about 309 miles from Easton. I also checked my ADK High Peaks map, so let me see if I have this right.... from where we'll park, the trail heads northeast along Calamity Brook towards Livingston Pond and Lake Colden?

I think I see the route you have planned. Hoooboy, we're gonna get our butts kicked. I can't wait!

Who else is going? As far as the critters and our food, my canister (the Bearikade weekender) should be ok for at least 3 people for the weekend.”

“Josh - I did mapquest from Cincinnati to Tahawus, which is the closest town to where we're meeting. Here's the link:
Cincy to the Dak Hike
It says 781 miles and 14 1/2 hours.”

“Josh, all you gotta do is press down the gas pedal just a half inch more. Be cool if you could make it.

Pennsy, exactamundo on following Calamity Brook to the Lake Colden area. I was just at Campmor and snuck a peak in a book on the 'Daks and it confirmed that this route is a buttkicker. Sweet!

Cool about your bear container, I'll take up your offer and stow my food in it to avoid the killer chipmunks of death.

I am getting reeeeeeeeally pumped about this trip! Yahoooooooooo!!!!!!”

“"This route is a buttkicker" meaning the route up to Algonquin.”

“Maybe I'm looking right at it, but if so, I am missing it--what is the itinerary?
Which day are you hiking Algonquin? What will you do Sunday? Which day are you meeting between 11a and noon?

As I said, only a very small chance I could come. I will be car-camping with my family at Rickett's Glen (Friday night to Monday morning) and MIGHT try to take off for a day to hike with you guys.”

“Fritz, the general plan so far would be to meet at trailhead on Saturday between 11am and noon, perhaps should just compromise and say 11:30am. Hike to Lake Colden and set up camp near there and perhaps do a short dayhike around the area. Sunday, make the buttkicking trek up Alogonquin and subsequent loop. Monday, hike back and head out.”

“Fritz

I think from Ricketts Glen you are looking at atleast a 5 hour drive to where they are going to be...”

“It's probably more than 5 hours. Mapquest says 340 miles. If that's the case, I have a hunch you won't be dropping in for a day with us Fritz. In any case, I love Ricketts and I'm sure you'll have a great weekend as well.

Of course, you can dump them all and join us. ;o)”

“-------
Artex,

I'll ask my mother on monday if I can join up with you guys. I'll be happy if I can go south for this weekend.”

“Sounds good Ice.. keep me posted. If you can make it, I'll be heading out between 6-7am Saturday morning. Plan on getting back sometime in the evening on Monday.”

“Sounds like a nice trip. I can't make it, but hope to get up there again when the leaves change colors this Fall. In the meantime, I offer you all the following mixture of good news and bad news…

If the weather is nice, you'll probably find the Upper Works parking area filled with vehicles. If it's jammed solid, I think you can park along the road farther back from the parking area. The earlier you can arrive, the better will be your chance to get a parking spot.

The trail from Upper Works is easy for the first mile or so, then becomes moderate. You guys should handle it easily.

On a holiday weekend, you'll probably find the Colden-Flowed Lands corridor crowded, but may still be able to find a place to camp somewhere.

The trail from lake Colden to the Algonquin-Iroquois col is supposedly one of the steepest in the Daks. I've been up it once and down it twice. Coming down, you'll get to know the true meaning of "toe jam." It's steep allright, but a lot of fun too, and since you'll be doing it as a dayhike, you should have no problem. Just be careful.

You may see lotsa people on Algonquin, since it's easily accessible from the ADK Loj and Marcy Dam area. While on the summit, stay on the open rock and keep off the vegetation; otherwise the steward will scold you. If the skies are clear, you'll truly be inspired by the magnificent views.

If you start out early enough for Algonquin, you could also do Iroquois on the same hike - bagging two of the 46ers instead of one.

In all likelihood, bears will be raiding the Colden-Flowed Lands campsites for food. If they're close enough to see or hear, that may mean your food is at high risk. Pennsy's bear can will be excellent protection, but as far as any remaining food is concerned, you may have to do battle with the bruins. Yelling and banging pots sometimes works, but they're so addicted to getting their freebies, that efforts to scare 'em away may be to no avail. Hang ALL edible items (even things like toothpaste, lip balm, tea bags, etc) at least ten feet off the ground and ten feet away from trees and large branches. Although that's what's recommended, the bears still may get it by cutting the cord. Lightweight steel cable is far better than nylon rope; it costs more, but it's actually not all that much heavier, and can save a trip from being cut short.

I've never had my food stolen or damaged by bears in the Daks, probably because every time we basecamp there, we avoid the high use areas, and always have at least one dog with us. But I've heard firsthand a lot of horror stories of ruined trips. Caveat emptor!

What the bears don't get, the squirrels, chipmunks and mice will do their durndest to steal (including flying squirrels at night). If you can't get an URSACK, I'd recommend lightweight plastic containers (Ziplock, Glad, etc), but harder plastic (like Tupperware) is even better. They'll chew through the fabric of your hanging bag (so don't use an expensive one), but the plastic will slow 'em down a lot, and/or even prevent them from breaking through to your grub.

Despite the risks of critters getting into your grub, the Daks are well worth the effort. If you're careful with your food, it stands a better chance of staying intact.

Hope the weather is nice. Have a great trip!”