Mason Tract, Mi - trip report

“I couldn't make the Zaleski trip, and it bummed me out.

This past weekend I had to work both Saturday and Sunday, which I rarely do, especially when there are good hikes planned. I couldn't get out of it though, but I did manage to get Friday off, and headed for the woods for a much-needed hike. I've wanted to hike the Mason Tract ever since my first canoe trip there.

I left about 8 for a pleasant 2-hour drive, staying off of the freeway and taking the back roads. There were still lots of very pretty trees along the way. I thought about, and roughly followed, the old Indian trails I had read about, and how they followed the Tittabawassee river north, then portaged to Houghton Lake, the to the AuSable river or the Muskegon or the Manistee. It was exciting to see the "hills" to the north surrounding Higgins and Houghton lakes as I left the farmlands behind.

I found the south trailhead easily, just a couple miles outside of Roscommon. The weather was extraordinary for November 8th, 50 degrees, and breezy. The ground was still wet but the sun shone all day. I hiked in a T-shirt and convertible pants, which got their legs zipped off as soon as I started hiking and got warmed up. I brought a daypack and a lot of food, a jacket, rain poncho, and a small bag with the "ten essentials". There were no maps at the trailhead other than a laminated one attached to a post, so I copied it crudely onto a piece of paper to bring along just-in-case.

The Mason Tract straddles the South Branch of the AuSable River, and was privately owned first by the Durants, of automobile fame. I find it ironic how much of the quality hiking in Michigan is on land formerly owned by the rich and famous. The trail is just over 9.5 miles from one end to the other. I intended to hike the whole length and return, so I kept up a pretty good pace, knowing that by starting at 10 and having short days, I might end up hiking in the dark some.

Most of the deciduous trees had already dropped their leaves, but they were actually quite pretty just lying on the ground. Lots of white oaks with their tan leaves, plenty of orange and yellow maple leaves, and some round heart shaped green leaves that I guess were birch. In the beginning there were small traces of snow on the ground to tease me.

I found the trail to be as easy as they get; flat, level, wide, and well maintained. I imagine one could do this trail in a wheelchair. I was surprised how few the wet areas are being so close to a river. I remember only 3 or so boardwalks. The trail begins in some young pine and hemlocks, which might have been cuts, and passes through some obvious burns, and the northern end seems to have more mature trees. There are some impressively large pines along the entire length of the trail. There are not many views until a few miles in, but then there are great occasional views of the river from the highbanks, and the location of the Durant "castle", and various scenic overlooks. I especially appreciated the signboard at the location of the castle, with pictures and newspaper clipping on the history of the site.

The river is a very famous for fishing, and the trail parallels not only the river on the east, but also a dirt road on the west. I saw only one truck on the road, and heard no traffic except on either end near the larger roads. The trail does cross multiple access sites from the road, with some having picnic tables and barbecue grills, but I found very little litter to pick up. There were abundant scenic spots to stop and have a snack and I took advantage of 3 or 4. Every junction and stopping point except one had the same laminated maps on posts.

I hiked all day without seeing another human, until getting within 1/4 mile of my truck, one lone man hiking along. Unfortunately, I saw very little wildlife as well, only a few ducks and an interesting encounter with a porcupine. I was walking along, somewhat oblivious, until I came almost abreast of a porcupine less than 5 feet off of the trail. I sensed that I would have startled him (or her) if I had stopped, so I continued on by as smoothly as possible. He (or she) bristled a little as I passed, getting my heart rate elevated, but didn't shoot at me. They're really far more attractive creatures than I'd imagined.

I got back to my truck with plenty of time before dusk, and left refreshed and relaxed if a little sore for hiking for 6 hours. For icing on the cake, I stopped at the Cross Country Ski HQ in Roscommon to drop off my skis to get them tuned up for the season, and found them having a huge clearance sale.”

“Nice report LeSubtil! Porcupines shoot quills?”

“I was wondering about more info on that trail. Thanks for the report. Two reasn for looking: One, past summer, I was looking at that trail to see if I could hike to meet up with you guys when you did the river trip, secondly, I'm looking for trails that I can take my son on this spring. What about camping along the trail?”

“nice one lesubtil, wish you were at Zaleski though, it's not the same without you, SG, RL or laqtis.”

“I enjoyed reading that, LS!

Thanks, Buddha. I've been so busy lately, just trying to play catch up at home.

RL sure has been flying low under the radar lately, wonder where he is?? Lurking, perhaps??”

“If I didn't have to work on that yesterday mornig, I would've went. I'd like to get down there soon. Maybe spring? How is it during the winter months?”

“Hey, guys, just checking in.

I feel a bit bad that I haven't made many trips lately. I've actually been hanging out in Wisconsin quite a bit.

Oh, yeah, I think I might have been on "All Things Considered" today. My union gave back a week's pay to save jobs. WDET called for an interview. Anyway, that's another reason I've been out of contact lately.

Maybe we can get a dayhike going on one of the Saturdays in Dec. that's not a party day.”

“good to hear from you RL, sounds like you made a tough move to save jobs there. That displays excellent leadership, nice jod!”

“Cool trip report dude!

The p pines are very cool I always love to see one!

8)”

“Hey BB!

It was a tough issue. But this proposal passed with 71.4% of the vote. Yesterday might actually have been my best day as a teacher. It was great to see people put their money behind fellow union members and kids.

But it is hard giving money back. We can't do that again.”

“WOW, RL! that was very cool of you guys. I hope things work out, out there.”

“LeSubtil.... I enjoyed reading your trip report. I especially liked the details you put into it! I would like to one day try a hike with you, just to read about it here later! I'd love to find out your perspectives and takes of the entire trip. Reading your report was honestly refreshing. Thanks for sharing.”

“Raven, pardon my ignorance, but I seem to remember you're someone I know with a new name, or are you new here?
Either way, thanks for the kind words :-)”

“No, I'm sorry....... you must have me mistaken for someone else. I've just recently started posting here...... and I haven't bpked with anyone here yet, either. Would love the opportunity to, though ... and that's why I said what I said. You have a gift with words..... and I appreciate that. I'm one who enjoys reading ... and your trip report read like a finely written short story.”

“You should see the maps LeSubtil draws! ;)

RL, I heard you! I was so excited. Nice job, very eloquent.”

“Hey Reformed Lurker, where have you been in the Cheese state? Holler if you are ever swinging through the North Woods.”

“Hi Pekka!

I've just been getting my feet wet in learning the area. I've done some hiking at Point Beach SF and some nature preserve near Appleton. The state looks to have lots of obscure wildlife areas in the 5,000 acre neighborhood. I'll be there from Dec. 26 or 27 to Jan. 1, April for a week and a bunch of the summer. If you have any really cool spots, I'd appreciate them.”

“RL, April will be a good time, depending on the part of the month and the staying power of winter, to check out Horicon Marsh for the spring migration. As you said, lots of places. There are many in my own northern neighborhood that I haven't gotten out to. I'll keep you in mind as I stumble across info.”

“Just stumbled upon this report.

As usual, a very nice description, LS. Sounds like a wonderful and peaceful hike!”

“ive never hiked in Michagan. isnt it FLAT?”

“Prowler. For the most part, MI is pretty flat. We don't have mountains, but we do have some pretty big hills. Especially in the northern lower peninsula and in the upper peninsula. Come on up for a visit. It's really an amazing place.”

“Come to think of it, MI may have higher elevations than OH. So, flat yes. Flatter than OH, I'm not so sure...”

“Nothin' flatter than OHIO :)”

“RL... Wisconsin?? What's the pull? (I think we might need an ICQ chat... lol)”

“Kansas is flatter than Ohio. The area around Fargo ND is the flattest thing I have ever seen.”

“According to this site , Indiana is about as flat as they come. Course, I don't know how reliable this site is...”

“I'm originally from Lapeer Co. and we had some really kicking moraines there. Not very high at all, but VERY steep.”

“Hi Treebait!

Any Lapeer County hike suggestions?

So, what's steeper? A mountain trail that parcels out altitude gain over wide mileage with switchbacks, etc. or a trail system that uses the available terrain to create steep up and down hiking in a relatively flat area. The second is what we tend to get around here.

Also, don't underestimate the Great Lakes shoreline. Ontario has 4,700 miles of Great Lakes shoreline. Michigan has at least 2,000 miles of shore. I'll bet the total is in the neighborhood of 10,000 miles in the region. Did I mention that Michigan has 11,000 inland lakes, Wisconsin has 15,000 and Minnesota has at least 10,000. And Michigan has in the neighborhood of 9 million acres of state, federal and commercial forest land open to hiking.

And the best thing is that we'd welcome you with open arms if you want to hike here. The Midwest rules.

Hi Liz! I'm dating a woman from Wisconsin. Chat sometime?”

“hey RL, am on ICQ right now, if you're still around... and if you have a few moments.

I'll have to see how FAR you're driving! lol”

“I missed this one too ....
Glad it popped up again....Thanks!

I prefer elevation gain and loss. I'm slow on flats, and end up in the back. I've never seen a porcupine. That would be so cool!”

“They eat your boots!”

“ive never hiked in Michagan. isnt it FLAT?"
Prowler
10:17:12 AM
11/15/02

Prowler, FYI, Isle Royale is in Michigan. If I recall, I think you posted pic from there. DAH.

By the way. That would be Michigan and not Michagan.”

“CA has marmots. They eat your boots and anything with salt, and on the western side (Sierras) they eat your radiator hoses!

Saw one guy on the JMT, and he had tears in his t-shirt. We thought it was a bear, but he said a marmot got it.”

“Now that's one mean marmot. Was he wearing the shirt at the time. SN?”

“Nice description, Le Subtil. Sounds like a great fall hike.

The porcupine that I encountered, in the rockies here, was quite large and had kind of an unnatural yellow / green colour to it. Not what I was expecting.
B.C. Porcupine”

“OOops

Link”

“Porcupines are quite common in Michigan, especially north of Clare ( I have even seen them in Midland County). They can be quite destructive to trees by stripping the bark and often chew on buildings. They also love salt so they hang around highways feasting on the salt left from the winter season. BTW, although they may startle a hiker by their cry, they do not shoot quills.”

“Thanks, Islandgirl, for clearing that up. :)”

“prowler thought isle royale was in the canadian northwest territories”

“They throw quills by snapping their tails.”

“Couldn't help myself..... just had to make a comment about the "cry of a porcupines"... I've heard only the sound of one from the internet (someone downloaded it for reference), and what I heard would make your hair stand up on end! One heck of a campfire story was told on a Manistee trip, not too long ago about that very same thing. LOL!”

“The cry can be very startling. One day when I was out trail running, I heard the high pitched cry. Seconds later, I located the subject which was only a few yards off trail. They are very noisy mammals between their groans, grunts and cries (especially in the fall when they are in rut). Gotta love them!”

“Yeah, you have to hang your boots in porkie country. They also gnaw on the wood in shelters, particularly the edge where people sit (and shed salt).

Deer, BTW, will dig up the turf where you urinate to get the salt. Salt is a precious commodity in the natural world. Mortons and Sterling may be missing out on a huge market.”

“birch, actually, no, the quills aren't thrown. If contact is made when the tail is flicked or snapped quickly, the quills are embedded in the target and pull free -- it just happens so fast (no one expects a quick move from a porky) that it seems as if they were thrown.

The very light quills would never fly far or with enough force to embed on their own, as you can see if you take a loose quill and try to throw it yourself.”

“I've also either read or heard that the quills actually vibrate their way into the hide/skin of the victim, embedding it even deeper as it goes. Because of the small hook at the end of the quill, if you're not lucky enough to get it out quickly, it has to be removed surgically! OUCH! I've heard horror stories of the quill NOT being removed fast enough, and it burrowed into the person's ankle, creating a hole thru it!!!!”

“coyote, it's true that the quills are barbed at the end, making them hard to remove once the barb has anchored below the surface -- the nature of the form would make them likely to be pulled deeper with skin and muscle contractions, since the barb would prevent going backward.”