2002 GSMNP - 7. AT Hike

“Links to previous segments:
2002 GSMNP - 2. Introduction
2002 GSMNP - 3. Pre-GSMNP
2002 GSMNP - 4. Pre-AT Hikes
2002 GSMNP - 5. Backpack Contents
2002 GSMNP - 6. Food

Oct. 1, 2002, Tues. - Started the day doing laundry and correspondence. In the afternoon I had a fresh salad at Mountain Mama's at Waterville by Big Creek. We have become good friends since they first opened around 10 years ago. Met two backpackers at the Ranger Station Parking Lot. They gave me a ride up to the AT. It took 63 minutes of hiking the 0.9 mile to reach the Davonport Gap Shelter___not real good, but not bad considering my heavy pack. The trail had been worked on for more than half the way. There were soil retention logs about every 10 feet, like steps. The trail was no longer the old. deep, drainage ditch that I remembered. Shortly past the trail improvements, I started around long finger ridges of the mountain. My memory was still good, the shelter was after the third ridge. I gathered some firewood to go with some logs that were there. I was able to burn everything that I collected, but the logs were too damp. In front of the shelter there are some nice sized trees. A mouse kept waking me all night.

Oct. 2, 2002, Wed. - At 6 a.m. it was still dark. I got up at 6:40, but it was 8 before I was on the trail. The trail makes a big U upward around the shelter area. On the trail above the back of the shelter I stopped for a large copperhead snake that was crossing just in front of me. I placed my hiking stick on its back gently, but firmly. The snake froze. and it was the first time that I had made a positive identification of a copperhead in this park. There was a solid copper color on the top of its head. The body was a brown-copper color with somewhat of a diamond pattern. It was about 2 feet long and fat. I released the snake, which headed in the direction of the shelter. I was kinda hoping that he would get the mouse that kept waking me during the night. The trail continued in a strong upgrade in big, U-shaped sweeps between four more finger ridges. Then it leveled, and judging by the sun, it turned SW, SE, SW, SE and eventually W for a while to the junction with the Chestnut Branch Trail. One hour 12 minutes has passed. A downed, large, redwood type tree trunk was almost rotted into the ground. I had rested on it many a time. So I continued uptrail and quickly located a good log for sitting and took a break. It took almost two hours to reach the next trail junction, hiking upward on a good incline all the way. A little way further I encountered a volunteer trail maintenance group. They were inserting more soil retention logs, cutting down dead trees, and removing rocks and roots from the trail. They are attempting to minimize the impact of soil erosion caused primarily by the horses. Thirtyfive miles of trail on the AT in the Park is the only place where horse are pemitted on the entire 2,160 miles of the AT. I continued, moving slowly. I was feeling that I was not yet in good enough condition for this hike. As I neared the side trail to the Mt. Cammerer Fire Lookout Tower, roots and rocks made the going very difficult on my poor knees. It was like an obstacle course, and each step had to be carefully planned. When you are tense like I was, it saps your energy. I stopped to replenish my water supply. Some of the trail maintenance people came past on their way for a view at the fire tower. They recommended that I spend the night at the fire tower. I realized that I would not reach Cosby Knob Shelter before darkness. So I made a mistake and headed for the tower, 0.6 mile on the sidetrail. It took me an hour. The trail eventually became difficult and some scrambling and scaling was required at the end. I could have reached Low Gap in about two hours. However, from there the 0,8 mile up to the shelter on a rocky, steep incline in the dark would have taken around two hours in my tired condition.

I ate supper quickly and enjoyed the sunset with one of the maintenance troops, who stayed for the night, too. He was young, having graduated in the class of 2000 from the same college in Iowa that my youngest daughter is attending.

Oct. 3, 2002, Thurs. - We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise and I moved on. Scaling downward and scrambling left me tired before I was really started. I took my time and arrived at Cosby Knob Shelter in mid-afternoon. From Low Gap the trail was rough with with rocks and roots and still steep. I always recall the time in that section, when it was after dark, pouring rain, and there were a number of trees down across the trail. At each tree and group of trees on the trail, I had to remove my backpack and work it between branches. And it was difficult working my body between the branches as well. However, I did not get too wet. I was wearing a heavy, military poncho.

The bear-proof fencing had been removed from the shelter. It seemed more spacious and I recalled how crowded it was in there at times. A six-feet section of a crashed military plane leaned against the shelter. The crash was almost four miles from here and I wondered how the piece got here.

Signs at the shelters now prohibit cooking and eating in the shelters. Ha! What do they expect people to do when it is raining? And the remodeled shelters have cooking/eating areas, in contradiction to the signs! At this shelter they need to provide some tree stumps, at least. The fire ring is a ways dowhill in front. I have only seen it used by thru-hikers and by overflow crowds.

There was an interesting privy structure, unlike any other I've ever seen. And the metal frame inside lacked a seat!

Three interesting men arrived and spent the night. They are main frome maintenance people for IBM in Atlanta. One of them teaches martial arts, of interest to me.

I could continue behind schedule, possibly catch up or just turn around after 14 days from whatever location I reached. My appointment for a car repair was set for Oct. 28th.

Oct. 4, 2002 Fri. - Today I am going to rest and watch the rain from the latest Gulf hurricane pass. It may pass tonight. When the three men left in the morning, they took a jacket and a foam bed pad that had been left here.

I'm thinking that with all the loose rocks and slippery tree roots in the trail, it is not too safe with my bad knees. It look like my current maximum is 6 miles on these rough trails. But I really need to do 8. Why punish myself? It might be better to return to shorter hikes on easier trails.

Busied myself by collecting some dry firewood for boiling water for some meals. After eating, I collected some larger pieces of firewood. Four thru-hikers, going south, stopped by separately to eat lunch. One was a beautiful girl from PA, 2 years out of college, a geology major and hiking from Port Royal, doing about one-half the AT. Five junco birds stopped by for a snack. One bird had red on the head and upper back. One of the other birds kept giving "red" a hard time. And I met an assortment of government workers from GA. They were all military retirees and they stayed overnight.

Oct. 5, 2002, Sat. - Rain! aThe four left at 8:35 am., about 10 minutes before the rain started to quit. However, it kept falling pretty good from the trees for about 30 minutes. By afternoon it was nice. A volunteer maintenance man arrived with a 3-pound axe and a huge saw, like those on TV on the log cutting contests. He was there to cut down a couple of 'widow makers,' dead trees near the trail He told about a treat he had for everyone and then went to do his job. When he returned, he sawed a large log in front of the shelter, and placed it in the fireplace with all the firewood that I had collected for an evening fire. He then opened an insulated pack and pulled out about 32 hot dogs, cheddar cheese, mustard, and some bread for buns. He laid out long, metal forks for cooking and said, 'Have at it! Eat all you want, because I'm taking none of the food back.' His trail name is 'Trail Angel.' He said that he does this as a hobby. Then he told us about another worker, who sets-up a complete smorgasabord! After he left we burnt-up the remaining food in hopes of not attacting bears during the night.

Oct. 6, 2002, Sun. - I was still tempted to continue on the AT and did not completely decide until I reached the trail above the shelter. Somewhat reluctantly and hesitantly, I turned downtrail and headed for Walnut Bottoms. My decision was based on the simple fact that much of trail was too dangerous for me with my bad knees. Hiking should be fun, but in those areas it was a struggle for me. When each step is stressful, it saps a lot of energy. As I neared Walnut Bottom the trail became smooth and delightful. Even though it turned uphill, my gait became longer and faster, and I was able to look around as I walked. This was definitely more pleasurable. All the hiking on the rocks was work. I turned at CS#37 and hiked uptrail to the Upper Walnut Bottom CS, #36, the horse camp. I set-up my tarp, took a picture, and then reset the tarp. There was a bear warning sign here. This area is known for the largest concentration of bears in the park. I tried to burn the remains of dinner, including the dishwater. I woke up several times during the night, a little worried about bears.

Oct. 7, 2002, Mon. - Rain started at 6:45 am. I remained under the tarp until it stopped. Then I packed and at 11:15 I left, hiking about 5.9 miles out, after having to dig a cat-hole. I continued to the restroom at Big Creek Picnic Area, left my pack inside, and hiked to the Ranger Station Parking Lot for my car. The hike out took 5 hours, including a 30 minute lunch stop and many rests. Some of the trail was good, some so-so (asi asi, in spanish) and about half the trail was lousy. Some of the trail is described in Midnight Hole and Mouse Creek Falls. It is pretty hiking along the creek. Picture: Mouse Creek Falls.

Enjoyed a salad and a visit at Mtn. Mama's, and then returned to Cataloochee. Incidentally, where the trail sections were good, I did good.

End of 7. AT Hike.

To be posted soon.
2002 GSMNP - 8. Post-AT Hikes
2002 GSMNP - 9. Back in Florida
2002 GSMNP - 10. Summary
2002 GSMNP - 11. Photographs
2002 GSMNP - 1. Index & Links”

“back to top for everyone to read”

“NS - Thanks for the great trail report, I am really enjoying reading it and I know it must take some time to type all that in.

I can surely relate to your issues with your knees - I have no cartiledge (sp?) left betweenmine and often have trouble with downhill stretches. I am wondering if a good insole might take care of that, like a superfeet brand or something similar? Have you tried any of these?

Tex”

“Thanks for your suggestion, Tex. Yes, I have tried inserts. But behind my toes, the pad on the bottom is convex on one foot and concave on the other. So I use prescribed, orthopedic inserts that were constructed from molds of my feet. The purpose is to redistribute the weight on one foot that causes problems.

In section 2. Introduction after explaining some ailments, I said, 'And so on.' This minor foot problem is one of the 'so ons.'”