The Long Trail: A Long Trip Report

“This is a very long trip report, but it’s the Long Trail in Vermont. What else would you expect? :) If anyone would rather have the MS Word doc just send me an email.”

“Day One: Saturday, September 13, 2003
Miles hiked: 13.3
Total miles: 13.3
Camp: Congdon Shelter

After riding nearly 19 hours on a bus, BugBite picked me up at the Pittsfield, MA bus station. On the bus ride from Indiana I was able to only catnap through the night totaling, at best, two hours of sleep. To say I was tired would only be a gross understatement, but the excitement of beginning this journey propelled me onward.
After the short drive from the bus station we reached the Pine Cobble Trailhead (630’) in Williamstown, MA and the two of us set out on this overcast day just before noon. As we began our climb up to the summit of Pine Cobble Mtn. it didn’t take long for my calf muscles to complain about the much steeper terrain, typical of the trails found in the mountains out east. The 1350’ climb in 1.6 mi. up to the summit was a struggle for me, but from the rocky summit (1894’) of Pine Cobble the views of what was to come re-energized my spirits.

The trail continued to climb steadily upward until we reached the southern terminus (the official beginning/end) of the Long Trail at the MA/VT state line, 3.3 miles from the Pine Cobble Trailhead. From there the trail continued to climb up and over an unnamed peak (3025’) and then over Consulation Peak (2810’) where, just north of there, I spotted a black bear crossing the trail not more than 30 yards ahead of me. I was so stunned that, by the time I got my camera out, it had made its way down the hill into the brush. From there the trail steadily descended down to Congdon Shelter (2080’), where, along with two other hikers, we stayed for the night.

Day Two: Sunday, September 14, 2003
Miles hiked: 14.4
Total miles: 27.7
Camp: Goddard Shelter

The morning did not come soon enough since it had been a restless first night for me in the shelter, first feeling a mouse crawl across my ear and then waking up twice during the night with a cramp in my sore legs. Disappointed that we did not have more time to talk, I reluctantly said good bye to BugBite and began the journey northward alone.

The climb up to Harmon Hill (2325’) from the shelter didn’t take long, and the views looking down into the valley below were magnificent even on this overcast day. But as I glanced to the southwest I could see rain approaching. From there the trail descended steeply down to a gap at VT-9 (1360’) by means of a stone staircase that seemed to go on and on. The rain made the descent a particularly slow one for me as I made my way down the slippery rocks, and the climb up on the north side of the gap beyond VT-9 was nearly as steep. The rain lasted for only an hour, and I stopped at Melville Nauheim Shelter to eat lunch and dry out my rain jacket. The inside of my rain jacket was so wet that I decided to forego the use of it during any warm rains for the remainder of the trip.

After reaching the summit of Maple Hill (2630’) the trail descended to Hell Hollow Brook and (2350’) then slowly made its way upward with many short uphill and downhill climbs along the way. As the trail slowly gained in elevation the fog and a light mist rolled in to make for nice cool hiking conditions, but the views at the many lookouts along the way were nonexistent. I reached Goddard Shelter (3560’) about 5:00pm that afternoon to find four other LT section hikers there for the night. There was only enough time to pump enough water for dinner before a heavy rain fell.

At the shelter for the night were Hoosier Boy (Dave), section hiking alone, and the Three Musketeers (Fred, Bob, and Rick). The evening turned out to be a riot with many a good story provided by all, especially Rick. Rick was an offensive guard for the Tulane University football team while in college. So he was a very big person who wore a size 15 shoe. Naturally, he had many hilarious tales to tell, among them about his shoe buying woes. Eventually the rain ended and at dark everyone slowly made their way into their sleeping bags for the night.

Day Three: Monday, September 15, 2003
Miles hiked: 19.4
Total miles: 47.1
Camp: Stratton Pond Shelter

In the morning I was beginning to feel more into the hike and set out early to finish the climb to the top of Glastenbury Mountain (3748’). The view from the fire tower at its summit was a foggy one, which was now becoming an all too familiar pattern. From there the trail made a rocky descent to Kid Gore Shelter (2800’), where I took a mid-morning break. As luck would have it, the fog lifted, and the sun almost peaked through the clouds revealing a fine view to the east.

From Kid Gore Shelter the trail climbed uphill to an unnamed summit (3412’) and then back downhill again passing some large beaver ponds at the low point. Again the trail climbed uphill where I stopped for lunch at Story Spring Shelter. It was too early to stop for the day, but it was another 10+ miles to Stratton Pond Shelter, which included a 1700’ climb up and descent of Stratton Mtn. to get there. The Three Musketeers arrived just as I was about to leave the shelter and expressed doubts as to being able to make it over “the mountain” and to the shelter before dark. They showed me an alternate route that bypassed Stratton Mtn., the route they were taking, just in case I was running late.

The trail climbed for a short distance from the shelter, and then it was all downhill to the Stratton-Arlington Road Trailhead (2230’). As I began the climb up Stratton Mountain it began to rain, and this time I decided not to wear my rain jacket. It started out very lightly at first, but the higher in elevation I went the harder it rained. As I was nearing the summit the rain turned into a light mist and with it a light fog rolled in. The surroundings turned into such an incredible sight it totally re-energized me to the point that it didn’t even seem as though I was going uphill, but, rather, walking on air. I made it to the summit of Stratton Mtn. (3936’), looking like a drenched rat I’m sure, where I met Gene, a GMC caretaker. After a short conversation about the thunderstorms expected for the night and good places to stay for the night in Manchester Center I began the long descent to Stratton Pond. I arrived at Stratton Pond Shelter (2620’) with just enough time to pump water and eat dinner before dark.

Stratton Pond Shelter will accommodate over 20, but with the 12 that were there for the night it seemed very congested. Along with the Three Musketeers, and myself there were 7 AT south bounders, one LT thru-hiker, and a dog that barked intermittently all night at people snoring.

Day Four: Tuesday, September 16, 2003
Miles hiked: 10.6
Total miles: 57.7
Camp: Sutton’s Place, Manchester Center

It had rained steadily most of the night and continued into the morning. Some of the AT thru-hikers were up before daylight, ate breakfast, and were headed south soon after daylight. I was a little sore from the previous day’s hike and was in no hurry to march off into the rain since there was only a short hike remaining to go into Manchester Center. While waiting with everyone for the rain to end I listened to the AT thru-hiker’s tales of their travels through Maine and New Hampshire and about their favorite foods on the trail. Eventually the rain turned into a light mist and everyone began to pack up and leave.

It was then I met Jarred, a 21-year-old north bounder on the LT, who was already in bed when I arrived the previous night and was just now getting up. He explained that his knees were very sore, and, because of that, was making very slow progress. I introduced him to “Mr. Aleve” (naproxen sodium tablets) and wished him good luck as he set out ahead of me.

Once again I said good-bye to the Three Musketeers and continued my journey northward. This day on the trail began with a beautiful walk in a light mist and fog (one of my favorites), while traveling over gently rolling hills.

Eventually, the sun appeared and the clouds slowly disappeared for a spectacular view of Manchester Center from Prospect Rock.
From there the trail led me over many short uphill and downhill climbs before arriving at Spruce Peak Shelter (2200’) for lunch. Jarred was already there and in much better spirits than when I saw him earlier in the day. He explained that he was really depressed the previous night about his slow progress, but he was in much better spirits now because the Aleve made his knees feel much better. After eating lunch and changing into clean clothes I began the descent down to VT 11/30 (1800’).

It’s a 5.8 mile hitch into Manchester Center from where the LT crosses VT 11/30. The last time I did any hitchhiking that I can recall was in college and only once or twice at most. VT 11/30 is a very busy highway in the afternoon, and as I began walking/hitching downhill a car traveling in the other direction went by honking. Soon the car returned, traveling in my direction, and, to my surprise I found that it was Hoosier Boy and his wife. His wife had just picked him up at another trailhead and they were going to get lunch. They offered to take me into town and join them for lunch and, of course, I gladly joined them.

It was really great to see Hoosier Boy again and meet his wife. After devouring the largest hamburger available on the menu at Friendly’s Restaurant, we went to the post office for my mail drop and then on to Sutton’s Place where I stayed for the night.

Day Five: Wednesday, September 17, 2003
Miles hiked: 14.8
Total miles: 72.5
Camp: Lost Pond Shelter

There was a dense fog on this chilly morning in Manchester Center. With all the talk of hurricane Isabel approaching I was anxious to get back on the trail and go as far as possible while the weather was still favorable. After eating breakfast I hitched a ride back to the trailhead and was so delighted to see nothing but clear blue skies by the time I got there.

The trail went uphill from VT 11/30 (1800’), passing the newly built Bromley Shelter, and to the summit and ski slopes of Bromley Mountain (3260’). This was the first time on a mountain top I was able to get clear views in all directions, and it was spectacular. From there the trail went downhill for a short distance and then back up to the north peak of Bromley Mtn. before finally making the long descent to the trailhead at Mad Tom’s Notch (2446’).

After a short midmorning break I began the uphill climb to Styles Peak (3394’) where, upon arriving, there were fantastic views to the south. The trail went downhill from there following a ridgeline, passing numerous wet areas and climbing over a series of knobs before finally climbing back uphill to the top of Peru Peak (3429’). The views were more limited from Peru Peak but great nonetheless.

Beyond Peru Peak the trail slowly descended to Peru Peak Shelter, where I had a nice break for lunch, skirted around the east side of beautiful Griffith Lake, and finally to a scramble up the exposed white rock of Baker Peak (2850’). Here I took a nice long break to take in the incredible views of the valley below and the distant peaks in nearly every direction. This would have been a great location to camp for the night, but without enough water to last until morning I pressed on, going downhill, to Lost Pond Shelter (2150’) for the night.

It appeared as though I would be the only one in the shelter for the night, but about an hour after arriving Midget Stick and Grunt (LT south bounders) stopped in for the night. Soon afterwards Jarred arrived just before dark, traveling from the new Bromley Shelter where he stayed the previous night. It was a small shelter (capacity 8), but the four of us fit comfortably inside. We started a small fire but the smoke was blowing right into the shelter. So we let it die out. Soon after dark everyone climbed into their sleeping bags for the night.

Day Six: Thursday, September 18, 2003
Miles hiked: 18.6
Total miles: 91.1
Camp: Clarendon Shelter

With the remnants of Isabel expected to impact our weather on Friday, everyone was quick to get up and moving in the morning. The main topic of discussion the previous evening had been what shelters would be good to wait out the storm if necessary. I decided to try for Clarendon Shelter because it would put me within a day’s hike of the Inn at Long Trail, if we had to stay the entire day in a shelter on Friday, and still keep me on schedule.

Jarred and I decided to hike together on this sunny, mild, and breezy morning to begin the descent down to the Big Branch River (1470’) and its suspension bridge crossing. From there we began a very gradual climb up to Little Rock Pond, one of the most tranquil settings you could imagine. After a short descent from the pond we climbed to the summit of White Rocks Mountain (2682’) and downhill to a spur trail leading to White Rocks Cliffs. We dropped our packs and took the spur to the very edge of the cliffs where they dropped straight down. The views of the valley below and distant peaks were spectacular in the bright sunshine. So one could only imagine how on earth the weather could possibly change so drastically over the next 24 hours.

After leaving the White Rocks Cliffs we began a very long gradual descent. Along the way we stopped at Greenwall Shelter for lunch and to filter water, but the stop was not a good one because there was no water and the mosquitoes were out in full force. Oddly enough, this was the only time mosquitoes were a problem on the entire trip. So we ate very quickly and continued our descent to the gap at the VT 140 (1160’) road crossing.

The climb up to Bear Mountain from the gap was a long gradual one, with an excellent view on the way up, looking back at White Rock Mountain, from Domed Ledge. Finally, we did make it to the summit of Bear Mountain (2262’) and began our descent to Minerva Hinchey Shelter where we decided to take a break and make use of the lawn chair. Jarred was looking at the guide and noticed that we were going to miss the Whistle Stop Restaurant, just a half mile west of the LT on VT 103. He seemed pretty bummed about this since his friends had told him not to miss it, but it was already 4:00pm, only about 3 hours of daylight left, and still 3.7 miles to Clarendon Shelter. I did some quick calculations and told him I thought we could make it to the restaurant too if we busted butt the rest of the way. This put a big smile on his face and in no time we had our packs on, with the Whistle Stop on our minds, heading down the trail.

After a short uphill climb, the drop into Clarendon Gorge (800’) is a very steep one, but we made the 2.7 mi. to VT 103 in an hour. The half mile walk to the restaurant took only ten minutes and we were soon filling our stomachs to the max . . . very large hamburger, homemade french fries, and strawberry shortcake! Now we should have had at least an hour’s rest after eating all of that, but we had to press on to make it to the shelter by dark. By the time we got back to the trail it was already beginning to get dark, but we had only a mile to the shelter. If you go downhill steeply into a gap, it’s likely you will go uphill steeply out of the gap. This was the case as the trail went up very steeply climbing up through what looked to be a rockslide. We had to go very slowly to avoid losing the huge meal we had just consumed on the trail. We did make the 700’ climb and then downhill to Clarendon Shelter (1350’) just as darkness fell. With the trip to the restaurant and the side trails our total mileage for the day was 20.4.

There was already a group of three, Scott, Tony and Matt, in the shelter playing cards by candlelight when we arrived. It had been a long tiring day, so we were quick to jump into our sleeping bags for the night.

Day Seven: Friday, September 19, 2003
Miles hiked: 10.1
Total miles: 101.1
Camp: Cooper Lodge

The wind steadily increased overnight and you could hear it howling through the trees. The morning was a very mild one, but still there was no rain. So everyone in the shelter decided to move on to Cooper Lodge, which is just below the summit of Killington. Both Jarred and I were still tired and sore from the previous day’s hike and very slow to get things packed up, but with the thought of conditions worsening as the day progressed I forced myself to get going.

The trail climbed gradually uphill from the shelter near the summit of Beacon Hill (1740’), where a light mist began to fall. It was much too warm for the rain jacket, so I decided to do without it again. The trail passed through many open fields and along a ridge high above the brook below before arriving at Governor Clement Shelter (1850’). During the morning the rain gradually increased in intensity so I stopped for lunch and to rest a while before beginning the climb up Killington. The climb was a long one, beginning gradually up an old abandoned road for nearly a mile and then more steeply after that. With the many rocks and roots to go up and over the climb was a slow and slippery one. Not wanting to stop until I reached the lodge I continued on and up the mountain at a slow and steady pace.

I arrived at Cooper Lodge (3850’) about 1:00pm and was disappointed to find my first 4,000 footer lost in the clouds and rain. Yet it was good to be in this solidly built stone structure just in case conditions worsened. I changed into some dry clothes and claimed the last leak-free spot available in the bunks. Scott, Matt, and Tony arrived a little earlier and had their clothes hung out to dry. About an hour later Jarred arrived and we all spent the long afternoon exchanging stories and watching the fog roll into the shelter through the open window frames.

Right after dark it appeared the skies were going to clear, but a little later the rain began and the fog rolled in again. It was so peaceful to fall asleep to the sound of the rain falling on the metal roof above.

Day Eight: Saturday, September 20, 2003
Miles hiked: 6.3
Total miles: 107.4
Camp: The Inn at Long Trail

There was still a heavy fog in the morning and knowing it would only take a half day to get to Sherburne Pass, I decided to climb the short spur to the top of Killington before breakfast. It was a rather steep climb to the summit, almost 400’ up in only .2 mile. I kept hoping for the fog to break on the way up, but that was not to be. After a brief stay on top I made my way back down to the shelter and told the others of the conditions on top. Everyone was anxious to get to the Inn so they decided to skip the climb to the summit and began the long descent to Sherburne Pass.

I was the last to leave the lodge in the morning, and my knee was smarting from a slip on the downhill dash to Clarendon Gorge two days ago. I decided to use my trekking poles for the first time on the trip to relieve some of the pressure from the long 2000’ descent ahead. The Long Trail is littered with roots and rocks making it difficult to do anything but concentrate on where your next step will land. I decided it was time to slow down so that I could try to capture some of the trail’s surrounding beauty.

After a very pleasant hike I arrived at Sherburne Pass (1880’) at 12:30am and hiked the mile up VT-4 to the Inn at Long Trail. After checking in, I headed to my room where I strung everything out to dry and take a much needed shower. Jarred, Scott, and Tony had all checked in about an hour before I did. So after doing my laundry we all parked ourselves in front of the big screen television in the lobby talking of what was ahead. This was the end of Scott and Tony’s section hike and they would travel back to Chicago in the morning. For Jarred and I, it was the more challenging northern section of the LT ahead. Since Jarred did not have a trail name yet we decided it should be “Subway” because Jarred is the guy’s name in the Subway commercial. He liked the idea and decided to stick with it. After we had dinner and a couple of beers you could see that everyone had grown accustomed to the going to bed at dark routine. It didn’t take long for everyone to make their way back to their rooms for the night.

Day Nine: Sunday, September 21, 2003
Miles hiked: 12.7
Total miles: 120.1
Camp: David Logan Shelter

After a great breakfast at the Inn I began my walk back down VT 4 to the trail crossing. It was an exceptional morning with bright sunshine and a light cool breeze. The trail started out very nicely graded for the short uphill climb to Maine Junction (2250’). It is here where the two trails part, the LT continuing north and the AT heading east to New Hampshire and on to Maine. It didn’t take long to notice a difference in the character of the trail. It was now a much narrower footpath and a lot more overgrown with brush along both sides.

As I was walking about a mile south of Rolston Rest Shelter I spotted a black bear about 15’ in front of me and only about 3’ off the trail. It was in the brush so I could only see its rear. I immediately stopped as it went downhill a short distance and stopped. It appeared to be a rather small bear, maybe even a cub. The thought of coming between a mother and her cub crossed my mind and made me very uneasy about the situation. I decided to move on very slowly. As I started off, I heard movement in the thick brush again, this time in two different locations. It sounded as though they were going downhill so I moved on very quickly! I made it to Rolston Rest Shelter shortly after that, where I decided to take a short break and make note of the sighting in the register.

There were not any major climbs on the way to David Logan Shelter, but the trail continually went uphill and downhill. It was very tiresome at times climbing up and over countless massive tree root systems or large rocks obstructing the trail. There were occasional views of the Chittenden Reservoir to the west along the way and one view to the south looking back at Killington. It was somewhat of a relief to finally make it to the David Logan Shelter (2620’) where I spent the night.

Two other section hikers from Ohio, Dan and Jim, came in shortly after I did and Subway (Jarred) shortly after that. After dinner and a lot of speculation about the half-fenced in front of the shelter everyone retired for the night. In the middle of the night everyone was awakened by, what we believe was a large moose that passed right in front of the shelter. At first I thought it could be a bear because of the grunts it was making as it walked near the shelter, but the sound of its feet hitting the rocks was too loud for a bear paw.

Day Ten: Monday, September 22, 2003
Miles hiked: 12.6
Total miles: 132.7
Camp: Sucker Brook Shelter

It only took one day to realize that the northern section of the LT was going to be much tougher, resulting in much slower travel. At times it seemed as though the trail was leading you on this never ending obstacle course. So I decided to get up at daybreak to get an earlier start, hopeful that I could reach Boyce Shelter before dark.

It was another beautiful morning, with bright sunshine and a cool breeze. The trail first climbed uphill near the summit of Mt. Carmel (3365’) and then skirted around to follow many ups and downs along the eastern slopes of successive peaks, without ever crossing any of them, and then on to cross VT 73 at Brandon Gap (2183’).

There was a distinct change in the trail climbing out of Brandon Gap. It was much steeper, climbing over rocks and up rock steps to the short spur leading out to the Great Cliff of Mt. Horrid. It was well worth the climb as the view of the gap below and mountains to the south on this bright day was simply awesome. The trail continued uphill, climbing up more rock steps, to the summit of Mt. Horrid (3216’). From there the trail followed a ridgeline with many steep ups and downs traveling first over Cape Lookoff Mtn. (3320’), then Gillespie Peak (3366’) and finally over Romance Mtn. (3125’) before descending to Romance Gap (2685’). The trail along the ridgeline was particularly tiresome with the many rock staircases to climb up and down, but there were many excellent views along the way to make it worth the effort.

I arrived at Sucker Brook Shelter (2420’) at 3:30pm in the afternoon, and although I wanted to continue on to Boyce Shelter, considering the toughness of the trail it was just too late to make it before dark. There were already two college-aged girls at the shelter, one who did nothing but talk about Henry Kissinger. Now I’m sure there are much worse things in life to be than a Henry Kissinger groupie, but . . . . About 6:00pm I was very glad to see Subway roll in for the night. He too was very tired from the day’s hike, but it was great hear conversation about things other than Henry Kissinger!

Day Eleven: Tuesday, September 23, 2003
Miles hiked: 17.1
Total miles: 149.8
Camp: Cooley Glen Shelter

The rain started sometime during the night and was still coming down lightly when we woke up. Again, I decided to get an early start, this time hoping to make it to Cooley Glen Shelter by the end of the day. Everyone was reluctant to start out in the rain, but from the forecast I saw at the Inn it appeared as though this could be an all-day event. Since it was a relatively cool morning I put on my long-underwear with my rain gear over the top of that, hoping that combination would keep me partially dry.

The trail immediately climbed to the summit of Worth Mtn. (3234’), and needless to say I was pretty wet under my rain gear already. I left it on though, because it did keep me warm with the temps in the low 50’s. From there the trail went downhill over the Middlebury ski slopes and eventually to cross VT 125 at Middlebury Gap (2144’).
The rain turned into a steady downpour, and the trail often resembled a flowing streambed more than a footpath. It was not uncommon for puddles of water to be more than ankle deep in low-lying areas, and with the heavy brush to each side of the trail there was no choice but to wade through. My trail shoes and socks were thoroughly soaked, and the rain pants that I was wearing were useless except to help keep me warm.

The trail made its way steadily up from Middlebury Gap to the summit of Mt. Boyce (3323’), and then downhill to Skyline Lodge by Skylight Pond where I ate lunch. There was an LT north bounder in this beautiful location (my favorite for shelters), who decided to just stay there for the day rather than venture out into the rain. After a brief conversation and lunch I pushed on as the trail began its climb, steeply at first, then more gradually up to the top of Breadloaf Mtn. (3835’). From there the trail made a steep descent to Emily Procter Shelter (3460’) where I found another LT north bounder who decided to stay there for the day. Ringo was a rather outspoken individual, but I really enjoyed his conversation on this very wet day. Although I was tempted to stay here, I knew of possibly 4 others that might be arriving to stay for the night. The thought of six people and all their wet gear in this small five person shelter propelled me onward. Just as I was about to leave, Subway caught up and decided to stay there for the night.

It was a gradual climb, in just under a mile, up to the summit of Mt. Wilson (3745’). At the top there was a short spur trail leading to an overlook with views of the, well, fog. Why I took this spur I’m not sure, but when I returned to the junction I made the stupid mistake of going back in the same direction I just came from decided to make the delightful climb to the top of Mt. Wilson again. :) Downhill I went until I was almost back to the shelter and then turned around to re-climb Mt. Wilson.

From the summit of Mt. Wilson the trail descended to a col and then up to the summit of Mt. Roosevelt (3528’). It was getting late in the afternoon so I decided to take a break and see how far I had to go to Cooley Glen Shelter. I found out that I still had 3.7 miles to go, with a climb to the top of Mt. Cleveland still ahead, and only 1 hr. 40 min. of daylight left. The only way I’d make that under these conditions was to really pick up my pace.

The thought of hiking in the dark did not appeal to me, so off I went at a much quicker pace than I had gone all day. The trail led me downhill to another col and over a series of short ups and downs. It was then I encountered the most incredible sights of the entire trip. As I began my climb up to the top of Mt. Cleveland I could see the skies beginning to clear in the west and now there were rays of sunlight streaming through the gaps in the trees, magnified in intensity by the wet leaves. It was such an awesome sight that I just had to stand there looking, in total amazement. Being there at just the right moment made the entire day’s struggle worthwhile. Now re-energized by this, I felt as though I was walking on air again, going uphill. The clearing skies extended the daylight just enough that I made it over Mt. Cleveland (3482’) and down to Cooley Glen Shelter just as darkness fell.

The others in the shelter were already in their sleeping bags for the night, and after changing into dry clothes I ate a quick dinner of ramen noodles and retired for the night.

Day Twelve: Wednesday, September 24, 2003
Miles hiked: 12.9
Total miles: 162.7
Camp: Glen Ellen Lodge

The morning was beautiful, clear, breezy, and very cool. The previous day’s hike had really drained my energy, and I was still very tired and sore. I found out the others in the shelter for the night were Hungry, Candace, and Mrs. C. Hungry had just completed the AT and was now out to finish up the northern section of the LT. He sat out the previous day’s rain in the shelter so he was out on the trail very quickly, planning on covering at least 20 miles for the day. Candace and Mrs. C, a mother/daughter traveling south from the Canadian border since the end of August, were out to enjoy the LT at their own pace. Mrs. C. was a rather free-spirited 70 year old, who I enjoyed talking to immensely, but they both shared good information and tips on what was to come. I have nothing but admiration for these two, Mrs. C for her ability to manage this very tough trail at the age of 70 and Candace for taking the time to share such an incredible experience with her mother.

I remained at the shelter a little while longer than normal to allow some of my wet gear to partially dry, but soon packed up and moved on in anticipation of the big climbs ahead. The trail first made a very pleasant climb to the top of Mt. Grant (3623’), where there were views to the south of the many peaks I had crossed the previous day in the rain, and then made the long descent to Lincoln Gap (2424’). The trail down to the gap was a steep rocky one and equally as steep going back uphill out of the gap to Battell Shelter (3240’), where I decided to eat lunch and rest for the final push up Mt. Abraham. Although the hike up to the summit was steep and tiring, it was a particularly enjoyable one. Many times I was climbing over exposed ledges and, occasionally, it required the use of my hands on some of the step-ups. I was surprised by how small the exposed summit of Mt. Abraham (4006’) was, taking maybe all of minute to traverse, but the views in all directions were incredible on this bright sunny afternoon.

After Mt. Abraham, the trail followed a ridgeline crossing Lincoln Peak (3975’), Nancy Hanks Peak (3812’), Mt. Ellen (4083’), all with many ups and downs between the peaks and many views to the east along the way. Finally the trail descended, very steeply at first, to Glen Ellen Lodge (3250’) where I stayed for the night.

When I arrived Model T and Wexler were already there for the night and eating dinner. I soon learned they both had hiked the entire AT, Model T three times, and they were completing the northern section of the LT, traveling south from the Canadian border. Both remarked at how difficult the trail had been (Model T said it was the toughest he has been on) and how, early in the trip, they had to adjust their expectations of how far they would travel in a day’s time. Model T wrote the book “Walking on the Happy Side of Misery” about his travels on the AT and was anxious for me to read it since that was one of my goals too. Still smarting from the previous day’s hike, I was quick to jump into my sleeping bag for the night.

Day Thirteen: Thursday, September 25, 2003
Miles hiked: 8.9
Total miles: 171.6
Camp: Cowles Cove Shelter

It was another beautiful morning and the few clouds on the eastern horizon made for a spectacular sight as the sun peaked through.

There were many very short and very steep ups and downs to begin the day’s hike. Many times I had to cling to the trees at the side of the trail to make it up or down without falling on the smooth rock. Progress was slow as I made it over the top of General Stark Mtn. (3662’) and Stark’s Nest (3644’) before making the steep descent to the road crossing of VT 17 at Appalachian Gap (2377’). The climb out of the gap was even steeper going uphill up to Baby Stark Mtn. (2807’). After that came a short steep descent and then back up again over Molly Stark Mtn. (2967’). The trail began a long descent from there, passing a spectacular view to the valley below and the upcoming peaks to the north from Molly Starks’ Balcony, and then on to Birch Glen Camp (2020’).

The clouds were beginning to thicken so I stopped to eat lunch and pump water at the enclosed shelter. The trail was much easier just before arriving at Birch Glen and I was hopeful that it would continue like this for a while. From there I did make good time on the trail as far as Huntington Gap, but after that it returned to the same tedious obstacle course, traveling over tree roots or large rocks obstructing the trail.

As I was about to Cowles Cove Shelter it began to rain very lightly. Upon arriving I decided that, even though it was only 2:00pm, this is where I would stay for the night to avoid getting everything wet again. I spent the rest of the afternoon rearranging my gear for the big climbs ahead, and just when I thought this would be my first night alone in a shelter, Subway arrived about an hour before dark. He explained that he had only enough food to last him through lunch the following day so he needed to make it to Jonesville on Friday. I helped him with some food before, but this time my supplies were low too. After an evening of catching up on what happened since Emily Procter Shelter, we both went to bed early.

Day Fourteen: Friday, September 26, 2003
Miles hiked: 10.5
Total miles: 182.1
Camp: Bamforth Ridge Shelter

We were up at daylight on this very chilly morning, anxious to get an early start for this big day. With just the two of us in the shelter we had everything ready to go the previous evening for a quick departure.

As we started out on the trail the sun was shining brightly, but the rocks were still wet and slippery from the rain. Not more than 20 minutes after leaving the shelter I was stepping up onto a boulder about 2 feet higher than the rest of the trail. As I made the step up the sun caught my eye, and I looked over to see if there were any views to the east. I should have been watching my step because as I transferred my weight to my right foot on the boulder it slipped to the side, and I stumbled down to my knee with my foot extended sideways. I could feel the muscle tear just above my knee as this happened and was hesitant to even move. When I did my leg was sore, but it didn’t seem too bad at the time.

I continued on the steep climb up Burnt Rock Mtn. (3168’), many times scrambling over exposed rock all the way to the summit. The views were breathtaking from the top in all directions, especially that of Camel’s Hump to the north and the peaks we would cross to get there. I could really feel my leg beginning to stiffen as I began the descent from Burnt Rock.

From that point I decided to go very slowly so as not to make things worse. The trail went downhill to Ladder Ravine, where you climb down a ladder to make a 10’ drop, and then began the uphill climb to the north peak of Mt. Ethan Allen (3680’) where we took a short break. I knew that I was going much slower now, so I told Subway he should not worry about me and continue on at his own pace if he wanted to make it to Jonesville by the end of the day. This was the last time I was to see Subway. The trail then made a very long descent to Montclair Glen Lodge (2670’) where I decided to take a long rest before beginning the climb up to the Hump.

The climb up to the ridge was a steep one, at times requiring your hands to pull up to the next step. When I reached the junction of the bad weather bypass I considered taking it because of my leg, but the day was just too magnificent to not at least make an attempt. The exposed cliff of the summit cone looked intimidating from the south side, but the trail skirted around to approach the summit from the west. It was an exhilarating scramble up the exposed rock to the summit (4083’), and the views from the top on this sunny day made every painful step that I had taken worth the effort.

The guide says it’s only a 3.4 mile hike to Bamforth Ridge Shelter from the summit of Camel’s Hump, but it is the longest 3.4 miles you will ever hike. The trail follows Bamforth Ridge down from the summit, and along the ridge are a series of knobs requiring short scrambles up exposed rock and then back down again. The trail descending between the knobs was nothing short of an obstacle course, again traveling over tree roots or large rocks obstructing the trail. I did finally reach Bamforth Ridge Shelter (1900’) about 5:00pm, very sore and very tired.

I was fairly sure that I would have to drop off the trail in Jonesville the following day but decided to make the final decision in the morning. Again I thought this would be my first night alone in a shelter, but shortly after dark a lone hiker, Jim, came in from the Duxbury Road Trailhead.

Day Fifteen: Saturday, September 28, 2003
Miles hiked: 5.9
Total miles: 188.0
Camp: Ma Ma Bowers, Richmond

When I woke up in the morning it was clear this would be my last day on the trail. My leg was swollen all the way down into my ankle, and my knee was very stiff.
I talked with Jim before leaving and found out he completed the LT in two years, with Jonesville being his break point. He thought that, although there were some tricky spots ahead to the north, the section between Cowles Cove and Jonesville was the toughest. I new the descent to Jonesville would be a slow and painful one on this foggy and mild morning. So with that, I decided to be on my way and wished Jim good luck on his climb up the Hump.

The trail, for the most part, was a continuation of the previous day’s descent from Camel’s Hump, until about a mile from Duxbury Road where the trail opened up to a beautiful casual stroll through the forest, all the way to the trailhead (400’). Now only the 3.2 mile road walk into Jonesville remained where it crossed the Winooski River Bridge.

For it being a road walk, it was a very pleasant one leading through the Winooski River Valley and the very scenic Vermont countryside. As I began the final leg of my journey it quickly turned into a windy day filled with bright, warm sunshine. As I looked back to the mountains, I could see that it was Camel’s Hump that was creating its own micro weather system with clouds streaming from its summit.

As I walked along the road to Jonesville I had the strangest feeling that’s very difficult to explain. Somehow, I felt as though I should be very disappointed over the misfortune with my leg and not completing the entire trail, but that was not the case. All I could do was think of the incredible experience I did have . . . BugBite, who helped me so much . . . the awesome trail and its magnificent scenery . . . the fantastic people I met along the trail . . . and the discoveries you make about yourself. For me there was no disappointment, but rather, all I could do was smile . . . and smile I did!

To be continued . . . . . LT “2004””

“Gforce, I got through day eight (will finish tomorrow), sounds like a great trip (so far)! Thanks for taking the time to post a TR.”

“I just finished reading....

Reading your trip report was much better than reading the morning paper...

Bummer about the leg and hope you will post pictures....”

“Just finished! What a fantastic journey!! Excellant report Gary.

How's the leg now?”

“Nice Gary! It sure is a beautiful, well maintained trail, isn't it?

Hope your leg is better.”

“A great read. a great hike. Thanks very much for sharing.”

“Great report! How's the leg?”

“certainly the bestest trip report that I have ever read. I felt like I was on the trail with you...thanks so much!”

“I’ve hiked most of that section of the LT and your report took me back to some of my favorite places. Thanks.”

“I am still reading....will have to work in between :D
Great report though. I sure hope your leg is better.”

“Great report dude!


I will call ya tonight!


8)”

“Great Trip report! Too Bad about the knee, I guess it gives you something to do next year. Hope it heals up well.”

“Great trip report! I'm hoping to hike it within the next couple of years, once I build up more vacation time and money. I was eagerly waiting for your northern report because I grew up hiking and backcountry skiing along the LT in northern Vermont. Hope your knee gets better.”

“Thanks for the report Gforce. Sounds like an awesome trek !!”

“Thanks for the report gforce... I was looking forward to it and was not disappointed. I'm hoping your leg is mending well.

I'm thinking of trying the LT North to South next year. If you finish up next year, perhaps we could start together?”

“gforce, I e-mailed you for the word document - can't wait to read it!”

“Where can we buy this book???”

“thanks to everyone for taking the time to read "my book" . . . lol @ monkeyboy . . . I usually do not like to sit down and write out long-winded reports, but it really was a pleasure to re-live my journey.

My leg is much better now, but the doctor said it would take 4-6 weeks to heal completely. I'll probably sneak out this weekend to give it a light test and catch some of the fall colors.

BB: the trail is very well maintained, but it is still very tough in some sections. That's what I really enjoy about this trail.

reptiles: the report for north of Jonesville will come . . . next year. I won't pass on finishing this trail! It's just too awesome not to finish, especially the northern part.

pedxing: that would be great if would could work out starting together. I've got lots of info to pass on to you.

twiggy dear . . check your backpacker addy.”

“kewl gforce... if you have any notes you want to send along, please email them along. Otherwise, I will definitely try to pick your brain as the date gets closer, assuming that it does work out.

pedxing@backpacker.com”

“WE'RE NOT WORTHY WE'RE NOT WORTHY”

“A most excellent trip report G-man. It's a shame about your leg but I'm glad your adventure went so well up to that point. Maybe you'll get some company when you return to complete it.

I'm looking forward to the pics. (I assume you took eleventy million pics?)”

“bruce almighty, your TT name cracks me up every time I see it... i guess it's the whole jim carey thing”

“You can blame Twigeater for the name change, and she swears it has nothing to do with Jim Carrey. It's still an experiment cuz I'm not sure I want to lose "Pennsy."

Back on topic - When we gonna see pics Gary???”

“WOW!!

Thanks for the trip report!”

“uhhhh . . . you mean I was supposed to take pics too Bruce? . . . you only told me to take lots of notes . . . and that I did! lol!

I'm going to try to scan some of them to post . . . maybe tomorrow if I can figure out this webshots site.”

“Sure am glad I picked tonight to venture back on TT and see what was shakin'

Gary - awesome report, it brought back found memories of Montanapalooza '02. It was like I was there with you!!

I was just saying to Mozart tonight on the phone that we need to get Hodgeman to host a trip up his way next summer...

Any chance you can make Ocala '04??
My calf has healed from when I blew a hole in it this past Spring, so I feel for you and your Knee. Give it the time it needs so it heals up good n' well for ya!

Keep up the great writing!!!

Tex”

“Wow, I just completed reading your paperback version, awesome story...err trip report. I felt as though I was there with you, very descriptive. Thanx.”

“blame me! you should thank me! it's a great name! LOL...I haven't seen the movie Bruce Almighty yet, the name all by itself suits Bruce. =D

I read your report gforce it was great! Kinda felt like I was there with ya - wore me out - all that up and down and up and down, LOL...
Thanks for taking the time to write it and for sharing it!
=D”

“all you north easterners need to get out and experience this trail, especially the northern section after it splits from the AT.

TEX!!! how is the Texas EMT these days? I will very likely go on the Ocala trip. Sounds like a good idea to escape some of the crap weather we have at that time of year and meet up with a bunch of TT crazies.”