Book Report - Touching the Void

“I just finished this book about 2 Brit climbers who ran into some serious trouble in the Andes.

After a tough climb to the top Joe broke his leg near the top of the 21,000ft mountain. His climbing buddy, Simon Yates, helps him down until Joe falls into a crevasse. Simon, assuming Joe is dead, has a difficult descent and is wracked with guilt and despair. In the meantime - Joe struggles to stay alive as he crawls to safety and eventually back to camp.

The power of the human spirit in the face of adversity is the central theme. I think it was Outside Magazine that recently ran an article about different character types having more of a will to survive when the chips are down. I can only imagine that Joe is what one might describe as an "extreme survivor."

It is a fairly quick read (170 pages). I just read in Rock & Ice that the story was recently made into a movie and is getting pretty good reviews in various film festivals.”

“Coop - I read this book last year and couldn't believe it!! What a story. The thing is that even when the trip was going well it sounded pretty awful. I guess I am just a wimp but the thought of dragging my butt up those snow drifts at that elevations just doesn't sound like fun. I guess it takes a different type of person to do something like that.

In summary - read the book everyone!!”

“Put forth in a recent article dealt with the fallout from risk taking behaviors and mountain climbing in particular. It highlighted 3 or 4 incidences of climbers dying and/or disappearing.(presumed dead) and their loved ones having to cope with it. It pretty much summed up that fact that it is not really worth it for those left behind. One lady found out her mtn climbing lover had another woman on the side all along while she'd been grieving his loss! I'd have said "Hell yes! and good riddance to bad rubbish" after finding that out. I think for me one survivor summed it up best. She pointed out that her being left behind by her dead climber spouse to live day to day and raise kids alone.... to her was harder. In other words... her day to day getting the job done was much harder than anything he'd ever accomplished in his entire climbing career. Amen Sister. Take a bow!”

“(Big) Coop - Thanks for the book report.

If a sailor can have a woman in every port, then it makes sense for a mountain climber to have a woman on each side of the mountain. Share!”

“I agree, good read! I read this book years ago, on advice from another TTer (I think). A very intense story...I couldn't put it down.”

“Cooooooop, that's an oldie but a great read. It's the kind of story that makes you wonder what sort of fortitude you could muster faced with a situation like that. His timing was impeccable - crawling into camp just as his partner was about to leave.

Danababy, an aquaintance of mine was on Everest when the whole "Into Thin Air" deal happened (in fact, he's mentioned in the book). His wife got a call that he was dead. She was at home with a 2-year old and was 4 months pregnant. It turned out to be a false alarm, but can you imagine what went through her mind for those hours that she thought he was dead? He went back 2 years ago, BTW. I wonder how the discussion leading up to that trip went?”

“kleetyface!!! Where da heeelll ya been? Check yer e-mail much?

dork
;p”

“What fer? No one loves me.”

“kiss it!
(_|_)”

“sounds like a fine read. I guess after reading the article I mentioned... it gives me a different kind of view than I'd ever had before.
Kleen, I can imagine it had to be hell. Nothing wrong with adventuresome exploits. I just think now... if yer married... or have kids.. its probably time to put it aside til 1) the spouse is either tired of you or ready to go along and 2) kids are of legal age .”

“A classic tale of disaster caused by lack of basic self rescue skills.

Simon cut the rope to Joe because he could not get himself out of the belay. This is a rock climing or Glacier travel basic for any situations where the leader is in a bad position and the second has to set up some sort of rescue. In this case a prussik to hold Joe, then a Z pulley to haul him back up. It is all in FOTH.

Kindest thought would be that Simon was so tired he was not thinking straight. Another tale of tiredness and exhaustion can be found in David Lewis's solo circumnavigation of Antarctica in 'Ice Bird', he knew what had to be done but was just too tired to do it.”

“Danababy - I read that article in Outside magazine also. It gave a perspective you never hear much about.

I have forgone some risky activities because I don't want to leave my family stuck. However, some people will never be happy if they aren't pursuing some risky behavior. If your significant other is one of those types, you are at risk like those mentioned in the article.”

“Danababy - I read that article too. It did make me ponder the cost and benefit. The article mentioned that these people (usually men) had more enjoyable spirits from climbing and were thus more of a joy to be around when they were around. I often feel the tug between my commitment to my family and my desire to hike (not really dangerous, but being away from family). In the end for me - it's a matter of balance.

Manuka - Yeah - I can only imagine that Simon would have done everything he physcially could, I don't know much about climbing technique so it is interesting to hear your recommended fix.”

“Phil, I hear you on the making choices. Loud and clear. I am the risk taker in the family. I was a wife and mother first though. I always try to temper the risk of death or injury with the rewards and such. I have made it ok for 39. 5 yrs. :-)

Coop, I see you hauling that little guy around in your pictures. Melts my heart. I think you look like a fine Daddy and family dude. Not every family is so lucky. If I got ahold of an guy who was an adrenaline junkie like the ones mentioned... I'd have him kicked to the curb soo fast. Not worth it. There has to be balance.”

“Coop,

The rope runs from the climber and through a friction device on the belayers harness. The belayer is tied into an anchor, and with one hand can release or stop the rope.

The belayer locks off the climber. Uses the free hand to wrap a thinner rope in a friction knot (Prussik, Kleimheist, Kreutzklem) around the rope to the climber and locks the thinner rope to the anchor with a carabiner. Ease off on the main rope until the climbers weight is on the prussik.
The belayer can now get out of the belay position of stopping the climber from falling as the climber is tied off directly into the anchor.

The Z pulley is getting the free end of the rope into a loop so you can use pulley leverage 2:1 or better to haul the climber up. Anchor 1 end of the free rope, set a pulley in the middle, tie the pulley to the climber rope with a friction knot, haul on the other end of the rescue rope and you have a 2:1 advantage. 1/2 the weight of the climber, the climber rises 1/2 the distance of rope pulled in. Pull the climber up a bit, adjust the main (first) prussik to take up the slack, ease of rescue so main prussik holds, reset the pulley position, repeat.

Yeates and Simpson were trying to move fast, Simpson with a broken leg. The anchor was a snow bollard, (dig a ditch around a big blob of frozen snow). These guys were taking a lot of risks in exchange for speed. Simon would have probably needed to set a deadman to use as an anchor because the rope would just cut through the bollard. Part of his decision to cut, was his body warmth was causing the bollard to disintegrate anyway.

Rushing in bad weather conditions with and injured person in the party is a standard recipe for bad things happen. Tiredness adds to poor decision making. Major difference with this story is Joe did not die, most of the time this type of story only has one person telling it, the other is gone.

Note to Danababy.
If the partner participates in activities before marriage/children/you/whatever then you know what you are getting in to. If your relationship demands that the other person change their lifestyle, prepare for the 50% divorce rate which imposes the same poverty emotional anguish etc, etc, on the children and abandoned, but many many times more often than a person dying in an activity that they love.
At least if they die you do get the insurance, and do not have to explain why (Daddy, Mommy, whoever) does not live here anymore. If you are looking for alimony and child support explain how 1 salary can support 2 households when most households require 2 salaries to maintain.”

“goint point. Misery is everywhere. Just trading one set of problems for another. But yes, if one knows what they're in for and gambles on it... my sympathy level is a whole lot less.”

“Aww shucks - thanks danababy - yeah in my head and in my heart my family is first.”

“Sheesh. My wife and kids say I can go climb any mountain I want as long as the life insurance is paid up.”

“Hey kleety - I'm still in the relative salad days. I'll probably get to that point eventually. :)”

“Once again, I agree with everything Manuka says. Personally, I threw myself into male menopause a few years ago. I've had a tough life and it was time to live for me - not completely, of course, I have my sone who has a mental illness that blows up evry once in a while and my daughter, but they are both adults now.

I gave away the dog and all my house plants. I had to make a major decision early this year and finally decided to walk out and ask a former girlfriend in my own age group out.

I believe I have about ten really, really good years to do some sick #&%!$ and that's what I intend to do. The girlfriend can live with that or walk.”

“What I was going to say originally is that 'Touching the Void' is one of my three all-time favourite adventure books. The other two are Krakauer's 'Into Thin Air' and 'Annapurna, premier 8 000 mètres' by Maurice Herzog. I've posted this before, 'It's all about getting back' (right, Manuka?).”

“I have read your 3 favorites and concur.

Take a look at "the shining mountain" by Peter Boardman, similar to "Into the void", 2 climbers on their own. Difference here is they did not screw up, great read.

and "Ice Bird" by David Lewis, sailing alone around Antartica, again some bad patches but a success story.”

“I'm writing a similar survival tale about my harrowing 1999 winter solo journey into Wal-Mart to find a Holiday Barbie for my niece.

I've read 'Into Thin Air' and enjoyed it - I look forward to reading the other books recommended here.”

“I highly recommend these two books for those who enjoy this genre:

Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death by Jim Wickwire
Stories Off the Wall by John Roskelley

They're both about more than just climbing, they're about trying to fill a void; they both share successes and tragedies without chest beating or pointing fingers.”

“did this do it I wonder”

“yep - the "talent" worked....”

“Gotta get this book, I haven't read it yet.

thanks Coop!”

“it's a pretty decent read - nice and quick with plenty of the adventure book thrills and spills another adventure book I read awhile ago and enjoyed was South by Shackleton (sp?) - back when being an adventure hero meant more than just getting your own sorry behind out of trouble

oh...and another good read in this genre is the book about the kid who tried to live off the land in Alaska and poisoned himself by accident”

“Is that one Into The Wild?”

“Yep - that's the one!

Now I'm reading Holy Wars by Karen Armstrong”

“Manuka.. I wanted to fight. But it'll get this thread killed. No flaming each other, no cussing, no innuendo.....


:-(
Lip out to here.......

I'm going to the Zoners Pub and start something.

Wanna come with me, Gremlin?
It might be fun hanging out with the "female chauvenist pig" side of me!”

“I think my wife's been reading a simular book...Avoiding the Touch? or something like that?”

“Is that from Oprah's Book Club list Nigal?”

“Cool, another adventure book to add to my list! A trip to B&N is in order, thanks for the suggestion.”

“If you ever come across it in a used book store, pick up "The Last Blue Mountain," about a group of young British college/climbing chums in the late '50s or so who trek off to the Himalayas and have "a spot of bad luck." Sobering.

Personally, I was sobered by a Class V rapid/recirculating hole that really wanted to give me a long-term embrace. I recall very particularly thinking, as I was sucked under, that seeing my daughter again might be somewhat more important to me than crashing down a steep, cold river even though it was in a fantastically beautiful setting.”

“that story is amazing! I was given a copy by reformed lurker last christmas and loved it. Sass is reading it now.”

“LMAO @ Nigal!!!”

“pekka - I think I read an article about the account in that book. Pretty hairy - I'll need to find the book.

As for "Into the Wild" I thought it made a better long article than a short book. At times I felt like I was reading about the world's slowest suicide (other than David Gest).

Krakaur has another older book which is a collection of his articles for various magazines called Eiger Dreams - I enjoyed that one.”

“I read this book last friday after hearing all of your reviews. I couldn't put the thing down! Great book, and good observations by Manuka. Reading his take on the situation put a different spin on the book.”

“Ok, I finally read this book, it was fascinating - you could feel the cold, the fear and the exhaustion.

Can't wait to see the movie.

The postscript to the book was one of the best parts.”

“Sounds good.Thanks for the heads up.”