Sodsfest 2004: Dolly Sods in June

“I'm old......just not as old as Geobeet.”

“Watch it, ya young punk!!!”

“Ya gotta catch me first, nyuk, nyuk!”

“nyuk nyuk nyuk?”

“Da!”

“Tom, 20 years of dinking is a good way to start a career.Forget the old remark,obviously i missed read the quote.”

“There is a group size limit of 10 I think in the Dolly Sodds Wilderness Area”

“Maps

I called the forest service today to get an information packet...this does not include a map. A trail map is $6 which includes shipping. To order a map you've gotta send a check to the forest service. I'll order a map for anyone that wants to PayPal me $6 (why mail me $6 when it would be just as easy to mail the FS $6?). The $6 trail map is not a topo maps. There are 4 topo maps for the area, each $6 and there is a $3.50 shipping fee for Topo maps since they are mailed in a tube. After we get the trail maps and decide on a trail I'll order a topo map of the area. Anyone that wants to get one can mail me or PayPal the money to save on the $3.50 shipping fee.

So if you want a trail map PayPal
$6 to: truck2high@aol.com (no credit cards).

If you're gonna mail the $6 in yourself, send it to:

Map Order
200 Sycamore St.
Elkins, WV 26241

Make the check payable to: USDA/MNF

I will be sending my order in on Friday, so if you want me to order you one you gotta PayPal me the money by noon that day.

Group Size

Group size is restricted to 8 people. However, we are permitted up to 24 people on the trail, but for camping each group of 8 must camp a minimum of 300 feet (100 yards) apart.

We will split up into equal sized groups at the trailhead for camping. Anyone want to volunteer as a campsite leader? I intend to camp with Scorch and Roam since we planned this trip together.

Fires are only permitted in established fire rings due to burried mortars. I suggest we find a heavily used camp as a "hang out camp" which is equidistant from the other campsites. Here we can have a fire and hang out. This will reduce impact on the environment from such a large group. Camping is permitted anywhere as long as it is 300 feet from a trail or water source.

Info Packets

If you want an information packet call 304 636 1800

Please do not mention thebackpacker.com or a large group trip when you call. As we've seen in the past (ref: everything goes wrong on a tt trip) calling the park and getting the personell worried about a huge internet group is a bad thing and can complicate things--please don't make us hurt you.

Scorch

If you could add the Map Ordering info to the trip page, group size limit, and group plan that would be great.”

“Due to buried mortars?

That'd be a heckuva surprise...”

“I still plan on being there, but I'm on call that weekend, I'm hoping to switch weekends with somebody at work.”

“I forgot about this trip.

Nope i can not go. nor can tree.
sorry, but we got the reservations we were waiting for almost a year.
we are canoeing Saranac lake and staying on Shaw Island. other then the 12 people we get to pick, it will be our island!
maybe next year.”

“Cool bison, you're signed up on the trip page right?

Yeah bitpusher, there are warnings on the website and warnings in the park...if you find one you're not supposed to touch them as they may still explode.”

“I'm signed up. Do we have a route planned?”

“Maple you punk! Don't pick anyone signed up for the Sods trip :-D That would be stealing!

Bison, no route is planned. We will do that soon, once we get the maps. Red Creek and another trail have been suggested.”

“no I never would.

more like boy scout trip. you know 10 parents and 2 boy scouts LOL”

“Those "trail maps" are actually maps of the entire Mon Forest and not adequate for hiking/navigation. The four quad maps do not have all the trails marked, but are a lot better for navigation. There is a fairly good map available on the web, from which you can transpose trail data to the quad maps available from the Forest Service. Here's the link

The $6 forest map is also available at the visitor center at Seneca Rocks or the Potomac Ranger District office outside of Petersburg, if somebody wants to view one before laying out the bucks.

The $6 map is nice to have, but not very good for navigating.

Also, virtually all the maps except the one on the web I referenced show the Blackbird Knob Trail going on the north side of the knob. It goes on the south side and intersects the Red Creek Trail there.

Let me know what your itinerary looks like and I'll be happy to pass on advice or notes.”

“Ahhh, scout pack trip eh? Sounds fun, keep those hatchets away from the live trees. ;-) Have fun, I was looking forward to hiking with you guys again, but in warm weather this time.”

“Thanks Geo! We'll definately ask for your help when we pick a route. Are you still a maybe for this trip?”

“I also have the Monongahela National Forest Hiking Guide, 7th ed., published by the WV Highlands Conservancy. I haven't used it before but hopefully it will have some helpful info in there that I can copy and send to people.”

“It's like the north of France, lol...

You're innocently wandering off to dig a cathole in the dark and BLAM! All of a sudden you don't need your trowel anymore.”

“I'm probably a bit more doubtful at this point. I am heading down there next weekend for three days (not the Sods necessarily) and I normally take a week in early to mid May, which I will again this year. I prefer going earlier to escape the freaking no-see-ums. I got ate alive on the Raven Ridge Trail last year in late May, so I have to beat those nasty critters.

Oh yes, the mortars. The Army used the Sods for mortar practice during World War II. A few years ago they had a major, and I mean major effort to search for old mortar shells using metal detectors. They have pretty much cleared all the trails and known areas of heavy camping use. The chance anyone will run into one is remote, but if you bushwack or camp in out of the way places it is something to be aware of.

The old shells would be very rusty, eight inches long, maybe up to a foot, about three to four inches in diameter. If you find one, flag the spot so it can be found easily, mark down explicit directions, and inform the Potomac District Ranger in Petersburg. Getting a GPS fix on it would be even better. Do not, under any circumstances, handle it or dislodge it with a stick. They are highly unstable if jostled.

Not something to fear, but something to be aware of and respect.

In all my hiking up there, the only thing I've ever seen are the signs warning of the danger. But Jonathan Jessup found a couple in some of his wanderings, so they are out there.”

“I think there are still French farmers killed every year by unexploded WW1 ordnance, so yah, they're dangerous all right.”

“The WVHC Guide is helpful, but the info on Sods trails does not include Dolly Sods North. I am expecting that Bruce Sundquist will correct that inadequacy in an upcoming revision. Several people have done GPS surveys of the trails, so I expect it will get included.

The one trail in Sods North that is on the maps is what is known as Dobbin Grade, which loops from the south side of Raven Ridge near Cabin Mountain to the southeast, east to follow the main stem of Red Creek, then northwest to pass around Dobbins Slashings Bog (Outside the Forest on private land) and head across the divide. There is another trail intersecting Dobbin Grade and joining FS 75 just south of Bear Rocks. There is a faint trail from Dobbin Grade that joins the Blackbird Knob trail on the east slope of Blackbird Knob, but it is difficult to follow. I did it with a combination of following the trail, bushwacking, and dead reckoning.

Blackbird Knob trail goes on from its junction with the Red Creek Trail to join the Cabin Mountain Trail on the west rim of the Sods. Cabin Mountain Trail (an old jeep road) intersects trails coming up out of Red Creek Canyon if you want to do a circuit to include Red Creek. A longer circuit is possible using Raven Ridge (a beautiful trail traversing expansive meadowed knobs with fantastic views).

Dobbin Grade is the stone roadbed of the main logging railroad. It carried timber to sawmills in Davis in its heyday. It's not in the best of shapes due to erosion in spots, but is a good route.”

“Geo, what's the temp swing like in late June?”

“Almost anything. But generally I'd say about 40 at night up to mid 70s in the afternoon. Possibly higher if there's an inversion; or lower if the weather comes from the northwest. I'm speaking strictly of the Sods, a 4,000-foot plateau.”

“OK, thanks.”

“Hey, Dub, I'll paypal you some cash for the 6 buck map, just sos we can powwow on routes. I'll wanna get the topo too, I'm getting a heckuva collection built up, maybe I should wall paper a room with them, that'd be kinda cool wouldn't it.”

“OH, hey Dub, I've got a Monongohala guide book too, I can copy the pages for Dolly and mail them to you if you'd like. Might help with picking a route.

Send email with your old fashioned address.”

“Roam, it isn't just one topo but 4 topos at $6 per map. So when we pick our locations we can go for the topos. My book has a decent topo in it, we might be able to use it.

There are 3 big waterfalls on Red Creek--I'm not sure if all are from the Red Creek trail or not, I'll have to look it up. I want to visit each of the falls. I think the Red Creek trail is only 6 miles long...if most of us are gonna meet Thursday night or Friday morning we could do the Red Creek trail as a dayhike while we wait for those who can't make it until Saturday. Maybe we should send out an email to everyone on the list and see when they plan to arrive?”

“Roam, which book you got?”

“Dub, I'm going to hand this trip over to you since you know more about the area (I've never been there). You just email me at Scorchess@aol.com with everything you want me to put up on the trips page and I'll just copy and paste it.”

“Monongahela National Forest Hiking Guide, 7th Edition. - last updated 1999, so it might be slightly dated.”

“Scorch, I have class until 9, I'll send you an email tonight.

Roam, I have that same book ;-)”

“Dub, still debating flying vs driving, I'm starting to think that if I fly it'll prob be a wed afternoon/evening flight in, or an early Thur.

How long to drive from your place to the area?”

“I updated the trips page.”

“Roam, it's about 4 1/2 to 5 hours from my place. Southwest flies from Columbus to Orlando for $64 each way if you buy a month in advance. Off to class now.”

“FYI, if you're doing the Red Creek thing, the Blackbird Knob quad is about all you need, unless you want to climb to Cabin Mountain. Most of the falls are near the forks, which is where the trail bottoms out coming down off the plateau. There is another one about a half mile further on - a small but neat one - where the trail crosses from the west bank to the east on its way down Red Creek toward Laneville.

From that crossing on down to Laneville, the trail is difficult to find in spots. From that crossing at the waterfall, it climbs steeply to an old logging RR grade and follows it. I missed it at that point, bushwacked down the creek, found the trail again, lost it again, found it again, and then made it to Laneville.

The Forks is a popular camping area, and on a weekend will seem like a tent city. I don't know what you're expecting, but solitude it's not at those times.

The trail from Blackbird Knob down to the Forks drops very steeply, and via any trail back up to the plateau climbs just about as steeply. Just to let you know for planning purposes.

The hiking guide is still pretty good for trails in the Wilderness Area. The only problem areas are on the Red Creek trail from the crossing on down to Laneville and from the Blackbird Knob trail northward (Dolly Sods North).

For my money, the trails up on the plateau are the essence of Dolly Sods. Red Creek is nice enough, but between overuse and the fact that stream canyons are stream canyons, I was less impressed with Red Creek than the trails up above on the plateau. There are several circuit hike possibilities up there with a convenient starting point a quarter mile south of Bear Rocks (another must-see point).

But it's up to you guys to decide what you want to see. Red Creek is nice enough.”

“I like what I'm hearing about the plateau stuff.”

“Yeah, that is why I'm thinking that Red Creek would make a great dayhike on Friday for the Th/Fr crew. When everyone arrives Saturday morning we could hike the Plateau. It's been awhile since I've been there, but if I recall the plateau is interesting and the branches on the trees grow on only one side. Plus there are wild blueberry's in the park...don't know when they are good for picking though.”

“I honestly don't care what route we take. I'm always up for anything. So I'm staying out of the route planning. That's all up to you guys! I'll have a blast either way.”

“Ok, looking at this guide book and think we can cover part of Red Creek and some of the plateau as well - BUT I may be being a little ambitious on mileage here - hard to tell exactly what the mileage is on these tiny little maps, or the elevation gain or loss, with any certainty till I spend a little more time with it.”

“I'll make some notes on my thoughts for you when I send the info Dub, reading this stuff, this place seems pretty awesome.”

“Actually the entire area of WV is awesome. I'm on break that week Roam so if you wanna stay a few extra days and explore we can stay at my cabin in Elkins. Seneca Rocks, Cranberry, Blackwater Falls, and several other locations nearby are worth checking out. Interested?”

“uhhh, YEAH! I was just sitting here thinking I might try to come up a day or two early and stay a day or two later. I can use up 5 days vacation and get 7 days to play with, using a weekend.”

“Lemme check my school schedule, etc., and get back to you. I'll let you know which days are best but if you wanna come up a couple days early or stay a couple later...like I said...big cedar cabin in the middle of nowhere in WV. We could do a lot of dayhiking and see a lot of cool stuff.”

“let me know, I think I'm pretty damn flexible.”

“Yeah, this looks pretty doable to get some plateau time and some waterfalls on Red Creek. Looks to be good campsites pretty well spaced apart and good parking at two or three entry points.

I'll make up some notes and send you a package and then you can see what you think and tell me I forgot all about elevation gain and such. lol”

“Alright Roam, I'll keep an eye out for it in the mail. If you come up a couple days early and stay a couple days extra that should work just fine.”

“Elevation gain/loss on the plateau is minimal - 300-500 feet. Some steep pitches, but they don't last long. From the plateau down to Red Creek is roughly a thousand feet, take or leave a couple hundred.

Blueberries are ripe beginning in August. In June you will see wildflowers, and if you're lucky a flame azalea or two. There are coyotes on the plateau. I saw one at a distance last spring. Mountain laurel should be about finished by then.
You will probably pass some bogs, which are interesting. If you can get down on hands and knees, look for tiny sundews, carnivorous plants that eat very tiny insects (hopefully including no-see-ums, which means some sundews last spring ate up my recycled blood!).

There are flag trees with branches growing on one side, but pretty much limited to exposed ridges. In otherwise open meadows, you will see deciduous trees whose branches look like they are being blown by the wind even if the wind is blowing the other way.

The northern boundary of Dolly Sods North runs along Raven Ridge, then up to the divide between Red Creek and Stony River to near Bear Rocks. Bear Rocks is owned by the Nature Conservancy and is open to the public, but I don't think you can camp on their land.

The trail a quarter mile south of Bear Rocks leads out to Raven Ridge. I will pass on directions on how to get there, since the trail is not marked on topos or in the WVHC guide. There is one tricky spot where the trail seems to go ahead, but you have to take what looks like a faint deer path to the right. Once you break out on top of Raven Ridge, it's pretty clear sailing.

Cabin Mountain is awesome, with views over Canaan Valley and the newest National Wildlife Refuge encompassing what looks like the largest expanse of bog in West Virginia. On a clear day you will see the windmills on Backbone Mountain. Another wind farm will be developed on the Allegheny Front north of Bear Rocks, to my everlasting dismay.

To the north you will see over the divide up to the Mount Storm power plant and beyond, to the south all the way to Porte Crayon and Roaring Plains.

At Bear Rocks on the east you get a great view of North Fork Mountain and the Tuscarora Sandstone, same rocks that are exposed at Seneca Rocks.

Seneca Rocks is worth a day trip for those who have time. It's the western, vertical limb of the anticline whose east limb is visible on North Fork Mountain. Everything in the middle has eroded away. The entire anticline is exposed in gaps on the continuation of North Form Mountain, there known as New Creek Mountain, north of the Petersburg Gap.

The distance across the Sods is about four miles. A nice out-an-back would be to head out Raven Ridge to Cabin Mountain, south on Cabin Mountain to Harman Trail, east on Harman Trail to Dobbin Grade, then on Dobbin Grade back up to the trail from Bear Rocks. Or you could do the loop in reverse, which might actually be easier to follow.

I will soon obtain a mapping/GPS program and can run off a map showing the routes once I figure out how to use it. Otherwise, I'll lay out a route on a Topozone map.”

“I'd like to do this one.”