Death Valley-Fall Canyon-Trip Report

“It was a monumental writing...not so intense as Big Bend, but all inclusive of what my thoughts and feelings were doing this trek.

First off, and for the record, I'd like to thank Cal Hiker and Snow Nymph, for their herculean effort in hauling in 3 gallons plus 3 liters of water 3,5 miles UP CANYON. This they did 2 weeks prior to our hike. Without that effort, this hike could NOT have happened in the fashion that it did without you doing this...Thank you!!! and I still owe you dinner...those stinkin appetizers were NOT what I intended. next time, fer sure...well met Justin...Corrine...hugs to you...you were my hero and inspiration when I first arrived on Trail Talk, and you still are...thanks for all your karma.

Joe...my friend...you are too special...so stop being such a putz...thanks for sharing a ride on the magic bus with me. it was all the more special for your being there.

Now...on with the story...

Death Valley NP
Fall Canyon

Myself, Joe, Corrine, Justin (Stratusloop, Snow Nymph, Cal Hiker)
January 29 thru Feb 2, 2004

Thursday Jan 29th. Waiting for Joes arrival took forever. I dinked around the hotel as long as I could, then went out for a walk on the strip, ending my walk at an all you can eat Chinese joint. Not too shabby for $4.95, and certainly more on par with my traditional style of food. A week of high-end food, and I was ready to eat out of a zip lock. After picking up the car, I headed to Wal-Mart for supplies, (I should have waited, as Joe needed to go there too). On the way back to the airport, I got the call, and away I went to pick up the dude and the party began and time ceased to exist. After the WM stop, (where I backed into someone’s car and broke the license plate holder…I did leave a business card, hoping that they would contact me…but they haven’t…yet), we were off for Death Valley…It was near 11pm and we had a 2 hour drive ahead to reach Emigrant Camp Ground, where we were hoping that Snow Nymph and Cal Hiker would be (but they weren’t) Joe and I caught up on chit chat and laughed and remembered our last encounter on the slopes of Mt Rogers in Va, only a few (10) short weeks earlier. Not too bad for friends living 1073 miles apart. We made all the right turns and stopped on the fringe of Death Valley for the obligatory chooch photo near the park sign. Unfortunately, it didn’t come out real well, and it was cold, well, not really, but we had been in the warm car for 2+ hours, and we were too warm. We drove on and it was very dark, as it was nighttime, and we couldn’t see any of the surrounding terrain, but I knew it was out there. This was my second time here, and Joe’s first, so, I was looking forward to his first glimpses of it in the morning light, and his exclamations in the morning didn’t disappoint. But, I digress.

We arrived safely and without incident, other than a foul smelling transmission that acted even fouler on the up hills (***note to self…NEVER rent a ford again!!!).

NO Snow Nymph. I figured that they stopped earlier and we’d catch them in the am…Joe and I busied ourselves with setting up tents, although we were both pretty close to just sleeping in the car, but I snore and so does he…tents went up, packs came out and gear was tossed around…@3am we crashed and slept till the morning, when Joe let out an OH my goodies!!! I smiled inwardly and was content that my friend was enjoying the scenery. How well I remember my first vision and my heart sang for joy of the sheer magnitude of the place, now it was his turn. Even though we had both been backpacking for a few years, we had only shared one other BP’ing experience and that was at Mt Rogers. This was our first actual travel trip backpacking adventure, and I (we) were really excited. We did a trip a year ago to this area, but do to bad weather, we got shut down on the backpacking and wound up chooching all over 3 states…but, It was awesomely fun…not enough beer though. Anywhoo…back on subject…I slept on and off for a while longer, while Joe did what he did…take morning photos I think, or maybe just stood in wonderment.


I arose and started to pack up the pack and be ready to roll when snow nymph showed up, and they did, but kept on going down the road. I thought I saw them, but wasn’t sure or I would have mooned them from the picnic table as they went by. Some dude that was rigged for bear offered us coffee and I gladly accepted it. It was real hairy and mean stuff too, but it did the trick. His name was Dave, although we couldn’t remember it, and wound up referring to him as “Jimmy John”. So, leaving Jimmy John to his doings, off we went to meet up with the fair Snow Nymph and the not so fair, but not totally troll like ugly, Cal Hiker.

We arrived at Stove Pipe wells and there they were. After a few pleasantries (that lasted WAY too long…LOL) and some purchased (and less hairy) coffee, we went reel far (100 yards) to the ranger station to register and get our required permits…the off we went for real…Cal Hiker (Justin) took off like a bat out of He!!, and not to be outdone, I cranked it up to catch up, I hit triple digits (I like to do that in the national parks…no highway patrol, plus great views on the long straight straight aways) and then backed it down…no point in overly angering a sick transmission in the crappy FORD.

We made Titus Canyon Road and went @2 miles on the graded dirt road…no problem for passenger vehicles…and parked at the end of the canyon where the gate is. TCR is a one-way road through Titus Canyon. We had some day hikers snap our photo and off we went to hike the premiere slot canyon in the park. It did NOT disappoint.

We hiked over the “flat” area (it wasn’t all that flat) and got our legs (and bodies) warmed up…I needed a cold beer, and not the last one either. And then dropped down into the opening of the canyon. It was a small alluvial fan that looked like gravel vomit out of a giant rock mouth. It yawned in front of us and beaconed us to continue. It was very inviting and most enticing…what wonders would await us? Lets go find out.

The word or rather adjective that we chose to describe the entire hike was “relentless”. As the cliffs and sidewalls continued to rise, so did the canyon floor. But, it was quite deceiving as both went up, creating an illusion of flatness. The truth was apparent every time you turned to look back to whence you had come. The elevation was amazing and THAT’S when it hit you. The immensity of the place also plays on your mind, as it is enormously huge and never yielding visually. And the kaleidoscope of colors, shapes and forms, does something entirely different to the mind. It bends it and reshapes it, so that you don’t know what straight lines or, if I can grab at an abstract thought of the moment…logic, are anymore. This place defies logic…it is chaotic in the most perfectly uniform way. Everything is a riot of destruction; yet, it all is as it should be, in perfect harmony. These are the things that prey upon the mind, when time ceases to exist. There is no time here in these canyons, and there is no evil. These are concepts that man has created and brings into the wilderness. Here, all is as it should be everywhere. Too bad, it isn’t…enough philosophy; there will be time for that further on.

I could see by the light of Joe’s (Stratusloop) face that this was grand in the GRANDEST fashion. Hike on we did…only stopping for short breaks, and to strip down clothing. We needed to make some serious tracks…10.5 miles!!! In my mind, I knew that that would not be possible, but, what do I know…stranger things have occurred on the trail, and trudge on in ever increasing wonderment we did. Snow Nymph and Cal Hiker had been here only 2 weeks earlier and they kept on repeating “it only gets better” and they weren’t lying…the intensity increased and the excitement for me and Joe mounted. The traditional silly grin wrapped itself on my face and never left for 3 solid days.

Here I will stop and give praise and thanks to SN and CH for their earlier hike in with 3 gallons and 3 liters of water. Without this monumental task, we would not have been able to do the hike we did with them. Thank you so much for doing that…Omen Sila lumen!

Back to our tale…we made the first dry falls, and scrambled up and around, no worries here. Then we entered into the first narrows…sublimity in its purest form. Rock marbelazitions in a frenzied manner were everywhere to be seen. The colors and proximity of the walls was dizzying to behold. It turned and disappeared and was so cool be amongst. The echoes were awesome. Then we reached the water cache, after turning a huge bend. We took our lunch here and rested, as we had come 3.2 miles in 2 hours..we were really cooking now. But, it would not be too much further and we would be in new territory for SN and CH. And we still had 2 more dry falls to do, and NOW we would be loaded down with 1 gallon of water each. My pack already weighed 49 lbs and now would tip out at 55 lbs. And still 7 miles to go…up the relentless hill. Joe was dealing with his own heavy burden and of course, our 2 west coast superheroes, said,”what’s YOUR problem boys…I laughed and slung my pack on and said…no problem here…lets go!!! Hahaha…maybe in my mind, but my body said “F.U.!! I’ll get even with you yet, you wait and see”. We trudged on, a bit slower, but undaunted nonetheless. The second and third dry falls were almost back-to-back and we had fun!!! Scrambling up and around them with all the additional weight, but we made it, and aided each other in the process. We passed side canyon openings that gave magnificent views of other potential hikes and views up and out of the canyon. The walls arose around us and never gave quarter to the skyline. The day, remained crystal blazing blue the entire time.

But, even the strong must give way to the relentless drudgery of the uphill battle, and it was getting dark and there was no possible way to complete the original objective. We walked on and CH found a nice little flat area under a cliff edge that would be our home for the night. Our decision was to day hike up to Wahguyhe peak the following day, and see what we would see, but in the meantime…this is as far as we were to go that first day. And Camp was set up in quick fashion. I lashed Joe’s and my hiking sticks and one of SN’s trekking poles together in a tripod fashion and hung a candle lantern from it and placed a second one on a large rock. Dinner was cooked and songs were sung and tales told. Soon it was bed time, and off everyone to their respective tents, and dreamed the dreams of the over weary.

In the morning, the sky was clear and up we arose to a blissful day. Breakfast was made, coffee was drunk and our daypacks were prepared. Off we went to find a peak. The trail, rather canyon, rose even sharper than the previous day, and we eventually encountered more dry falls, which were even more fun to climb up. I decided to actually scramble up one, now that I didn’t have my pack on. I felt like a goat, and exerted little effort to accomplish my goal. The others went the long and arduous way, whilst I sat and watched them struggle up…no, actually, I guided and assisted whenever needed. It was fun, and I wanted to eek out every ounce I could.

The slot canyons got even better, tight, and narrow and rhythmic in nature, with gravel underfoot (that was HARD to walk in) I actually pulled a slight groin muscle while pushing off the soft gravel. Bummer, it slowed my pace, but didn’t stop me from going on. We passed more and more side canyons with views that allowed ones imagination to fly every which way. We began to see Juniper pines and lots of lush plants and the ground became more compacted and easy to walk on. There was lots of moisture in the place, as there has been a decent amount of snowfall. I’m sure that spring will bring a glorious mass of color and vibrancy to the desert canyon.

We passed an opening on the left wall and we saw our first vision of Mt Palmer to the west. Monstrous and mean looking, she was. She glared down at us and defied us to attempt her. I bowed in supplication and passed on, knowing that for the moment, she reined supreme. Only a short bit further, we hit the last dry falls…hahaha…this was only a small encumbrance and really presented no challenge to us at all…although, it made for some great photos. It was at this point that my map fell from my pocket and I had to turn back and fetch it, as it had notes on it, and I didn’t want to loose it in the wind. I retraced my steps and soon found it and rejoined SN, who waited for me. When we reached the end of the canyon and stood at the feet of Wahguyhe Peak, I stood in awe. Here was a place with an unencumbered 360-degree view. I would have liked to have made that peak, but it will have to wait for another time. I didn’t want to push myself to straining and just being there was plenty for me. I found a nice flat rock on the side of the hill and made my lunch and just gazed in wide wonderment of my surroundings. It was a marvel that few have seen. The difficulty of the dry falls and the relentless uphill struggle, probably keeps out 95 of 100 persons that enter the canyon way below, from ever getting as far as we were at that moment. I was pleased and sat contentedly. Joe went off to explore, and I’m glad that he did. SN and CH ate lunch below and a bit away and I snoozed and rested in the warmth of the sun. I guess that we were at an elevation of near 5600’, a gain of over 3700’ from the entrance of the canyon.

Since time does not exist in this place, I don’t know when we arrived to the end of the canyon, but Joe was eager to summit something, so off he went, but due to the sun sinking down, and our wanting to head back down the canyon in daylight, he was unable to manage it, and popped back at our level and the perfect time. SN and CH were going to go on ahead, and I would wait for Joe, but that turned out to be unnecessary and we all went down together. Joe was happy as a lark and said that he spied numerous tracks up on the hillside. We saw many sheep tracks, but alas, we saw no sheep…no shagging for Stikmon…hahaha. (thought I’d throw that in).
We made excellent time (what’s that???) speed, going down, and made camp a bit before dark and were able to gather up a good deal of fire wood (Joe, thank you for your assistance in that matter). We excavated a decent sized hole and proceeded to prepare for the festivities. The fire was lit, and dinner was prepared in our own manner and I drank Meade of the Dwarves. Soon after our dinner respite Cal Hiker stood and sang the Lay of Luthien, in its entirety. He has a wonderful voice and would have made the elves proud. Snow Nymph danced the sad dance of ending and I played my flute and Joe kept time on his backpacking drum. It was a magical moment. I shall never forget it.

It had been a long day, one full of exertion and energy, and the following day, was the hike out. But, there would be less weight in out packs, and it would be all down hill, but, I don’t like down hills, as it wrecks my left knee, so I was not looking forward to it, but, oh well. Just before we all went to bed, we cranked up the fire to bonfire status and lit the canyon up like a jewel. It was great. Then we all crashed.

In the morning…there was nothing but ashes left of the fire, Joe and I disbursed the remaining wood, and we buried the ash with the rocks we had removed for the pit. Nothing could be seen of our fire. LNT had been observed.

We packed and made a leisurely breakfast and divided up the remaining water, and off we went. It was a wonderful bright morning, clear, crisp and cool. We made excellent speed and made the dry falls quickly. We came to the first dry fall, and I decided that I was going to jump, which I did, cause, I’m an idiot. Joe and CH proved themselves to be idiots too and followed me. Then at the water caching spot, there was an extra liter of water, which we all drank, we took our lunch. CH and I hiked up a huge ledge till we were 500’ above the others. It was steep and scary looking, but in reality, it was steep and scary looking. If one had the guts, you could make it all the way to the top of the ridge…I choose NOT to have the guts…I MUST be getting older as I would NOT have hesitated before. We went down, but couldn’t get Joe to come up, but SN made it up and looked a bit giddy as I was at the same level on the opposite side of the canyon…oh, to have had a Frisbee to toss across the canyon…NOW that would have been COOL!!!

At the big dry falls (being the first on the way in, and the last on the way out) Joe dropped his pack over with a line and scrambled with more ease, the rest of us carried our packs. It was FUN, not seeing where to put your foot and imagining that it was a 2-foot drop, when it was only 6 inches. LOL…

We made the cars, and I broke out semi cold…ok, warm beer for Joe and me. We did it!!! Off to Stove Pipe Wells for more COLD beer (for me) and showers for SN and CH. We chowed down on some food, and watched some of the superbowl, and eventually said are farewells. Joe and I stayed on (after talking about going to the panamint dunes, which we blew off) and ate and drank and watched the game. Then went back to Emigrant CG, where Jimmy John was still set up.

In the morning (Monday) we arose and started to dink around with the packs and repacking for the airport, when Jimmy John yelled over to us that coffee was ready. We looked at each other, shrugged our shoulders and went on over to scarf some beardy coffee. Jimmy John’s name turns out to be Dave, so we called him Jimmy John Dave; he kind liked that, and was really happy that we didn’t call him Billy Bob. We laughed and talked and I played “stick” with his dog Bonnie, who was eager to run and play, and so was I. I missed my own dog, Khatru, and really needed to interact with a being of higher intelligence, and Bonnie was IT!!! We played and played and ran around and had fun. Joe wandered off to the edges of wilderland and hunted small miracles. I eventually joined my friend and shared such thoughts as I deemed appropriate. It was great to share that moment in time with him in one of Gods Wholiest of Wholey Places.

Jimmy John Dave…thanks for the coffee…well met!!! May the stars always shine upon your path.

Joe and I headed to Stove Pipe Wells, where we had well earned showers and then off to Red Rocks Canyon. I wanted him to see the place that I had enjoyed so much a week earlier, and to maybe plan a trip there with his daughter…the fair and lovely Rebecca (aka…”Little Miss”). Then off to Vegas for buffet dinners at the MGM Grand. They were free due to an incident that shall remain unrecorded (lets just say…do NOT bring camping fuel into a Las Vegas hotel room, and if you do, don’t let housekeeping find it)…anywhoo…this tale is almost complete, as the next move was to deal with the car rental people and the smoking transmission ordeal, which NEVER let up, until we returned the car, then, it made a liar out of me and I had to raise my voice and invoke my powers to get some customer satisfaction…sheesh…its tiring being a wizard all the time.

In Conclusion…
Death Valley is the kind of place where mortal beings enter in, and Profits exit out. I do not claim to be a Profit, but I’m certainly not the same person that I was before this event. All the big places of the world will change a person, if you let it. You become more humble, introspective, respectful and understanding of the ways of the Universe. Things of mortal making become less important and time stops being such an agony. We should all travel to God’s Wholey Places more frequently…I know I shall.

Joe…you were my reason for being there…thank you.

Namarie!!!

The end…NOT!!!


My photos are in no way comparable to the ones that Snow Nymph put up, nor are they even in the league of the ones that Cal Hikers brother took, even though some of those shots were of the same subject matter. I hate the little camera that I was forced to use, but, oh well...guess I'll just have to go back so that I get it right.

Here are the photos...enjoy!”

“I didn't bother with captions yet. Everyone has seen SN's photos, and cal hikers, so I didn't worry about it, I will get to it, just not at this particular moment in (groan) time.”

“Great report, Stikmon.

I probably would have jumped the dry fall 10 years ago, but now I'm a wimp. It looked like a long ways for me, plus I'm a lot shorter than you guys!

It was nice meeting Joe, and nice backpacking with you again. Thanks to Calhiker for carrying all but 1 gallon in (I hit my tailbone and head snowboarding on hardpack the day before we cached the water. He was feeling good, so he took the load off me).

I want to do next years trip, so keep me posted. We'll bag a peak next time!

And Sonja, sorry you couldn't make it! We missed you!”

“Next year is practically here. and thank you for remembering Sonja. I missed ya something fierce. Sorry you couldn't join us and had to suffer with BS conference...I know ALL about that (even though mine wasn't BS).”

“ducky boy....ha ha....btw...those are really sweet loafers you have.....wink wink...

Who you calling a putz?

But seriously....I want to echo Stikmon's sentiments...snownymph and calhiker....Thanks a ton!...like it's been said...we wouldn't have been able to do this without you.

Put me on the list for next year's adventure....i'm there bro! Snownymph and Calhiker...hope you guys can make it....plus...we need someone to cache water....LOL....

I ain't coming home unless I bag Wahguyhe peak....or something...a hill maybe! Wayguyhe does indeed look awesome!

Hey...btw...since we have Jimmy John Dave's address....we need to inform him of our return. He's got no plans...and i'm sure he'd love to meet up again...YO Jimmy John Dave...start brewing that coffee!”

“Stikmon, excellent report,great pics and the scenery was fabulous.

Glad you all had a great time.”

“lets start plannin next year NOW...since this year is all planned out practically. I've been accused of not leaving any time for spontaneity...bull poopy...I'm plenty spontaneous! when I gotta pee, I whip it out and pee...now THATS spontaneity!

Weekends are for last minute things...BIG trips, require planning and staging...I so love BIG trips...can't wait for the next one...DENVER in July!!!I better start packin the pack NOW.”

“Thanks for the entertaining trip report. I guess I had already forgotten some of the events of the trip, like me singing around the campfire. That sip of cran-vodka must have hit me harder than I realized.

Let's do this again next year, it was fun. We'll finally get that elusive peak, too.

Oh BTW, Snow Nymph's lying, I carried ALL the water in....Just kidding!

Snowy did more than her fair share to get ready for this trip, I just gotta stop telling her that I'm feeling good on these hikes!”

“Wow! What an amazing trip. Wish I had been able to go. Fall Canyon is just wonderful, so much better than Titus Canyon, which people can drive down, even though it's pretty close.”

“CHOOCH canyon...why deal with chooches when you can be a real backpacker.”

“Stikmon,
I'm going to borrow a few pix from your album. I'll put your name as photographer.

I like the "jumping off the dry fall" pics!”

“they aren't really my pictures...I just borrow the vision from God...they belong to everyone. but, thanks for letting me know though...you really are a gem of a human being.”

“You have a good heart, stikmon. Well said.”