Saint Mary's Wilderness Va

“Geo, Heads up my friend. I told you I'd get back to St. Mary's to check things out post-flood. I got there this past weekend. Here is what I found. There was one vehicle other than mine in the parking area. Richmond tags. The road in to the trailhead is in excellent condition. Fresh layer of crush run. I was headed to the falls on the main trail when I noticed a backpacker wandering about. He spoke to me and asked me if I was from the area and if I knew the trail,etc. Could I help him and his friends? They were backpacking to Green Pond to stay and had lost the trail. It was difficult to discern in many areas due to the flooding. Huge rafts of debris and sand have washed into the left of the stream heading up the holler. There is evidence of flooding 5 ft up in the trees and shrubs where weeds and other debris have been left where they were deposited by high water. Remember where the first creek ford is? How it used to be on a ledge on the opposite side about 15 ft off the creek? Its still there, but not much of it. There are some spots where the trail is just gone. Period. The areas where you used to have trail now lead you right up to some of those slides and one is forced to ford or get in the creek to walk. I guided him and the other 2 bp'ers to the trail junction they needed and cut them loose. I made it up to the falls without any problems and never saw another soul. Made me glad for all the off-trail stuff I've done. If a person has no experience figuring out how to find their way without an easy trail to follow I would not recommend it at this time. Someone has very thoughtfully and carefully piled rock cairns in some of the most critical areas along the now vanished path. They've piled them high enough that if you're back in there and it floods, you'll still be able to find the spots to ford and get out with the cairns visible. If the water would be any higher you'd just have to stay anyhow and ride it out. Talked to some of my kin and the folks who live in the area below the flooding where the bank burst. Spy Creek is now mostly just pools of standing water from the flood. Folks who were told they were not allowed to remove the river jacks from their property and yards, remove boulders from their yards, or rebuild their bridges have found some creative ways around it. They have piled the rocks back in the creek bed and have filled in Spy Creek with crush run to make shallow fords. These will only last til the next big flood. It has been at least a temporary fix. A few lucky souls have gotten permits from the Army Corps of Engineers to rebuild their bridges and fix their property. Takes a long time, but it can be done. When will we learn we need to protect wild areas, but need to factor in the human equation? These families have lived here for many many years!”

“I was up there Sunday - basically agree with your assesment. I got to where the first ford is and crossed there but bailed due to cold and time before reaching the junction those BPers needed. Personally I think the thing to do at that spot is to just stay in the river and head up stream a bit and come out on that big rock bar acroos from the old trail but that was not what I did - I took the old trail up to where the narrow ledge had been washed away and did not feel like climbing down just to climb back up again. It is nice to see that the maintainers are working on reconstructing the trail but they have a goodly ways to go yet.”

“Thank for the info Dana and HOI.

As I said on the other thread, floods seem to want to flush the trail out of that holler.

That ledge was already a tenuous stretch if carrying a pack in wet weather when the rock gets slippery.

I expect they will rebuild the trail at least to the junction, but that's just my guess. It will not be done overnight.

Good to hear that a determined person can bushwack to the falls. From the falls on up the creek, it was nearly a bushwack before. I imagine it's worse now.

I think Creek Dancer was thinking of taking some Scouts up there later this spring. I'll pass this info on to her. Thanks for the update.”

“Yessir. I was afeered the gummint would balk on trail reconstruction period. I never saw a living thing in the creek the whole time. I asked my Dad if the liming had done any good and if there were any fish in the river. He grinned and was pleased to report that YES! there were trout and yes the liming is working! Got a few pictures to post in a bit. cleaning them up now.”

“Geobeet - if you are talking about hiking up stream above the falls - I suspect that if everything did not get washed away that it is still a very tough bushwhack - a laurel hell - about 12 years ago it before the gypsy moth and wooly adelgid was passable but now that the oaks and the hemlocks have died the undergrowth has filled in everything.”

“Wow! I remember it from the early 80s just about the time the Wilderness Bill was introduced. Yes, it was a series of laurel hells then, and not easy to travel. But there was a path, although faint at times.

Sounds like the area is truly becoming wilderness, and part of me likes that. The other part wants a nice trail. Perhaps with the trail getting washed out, though, it will cut down on overuse. Maybe true wilderness is best!”

“Here is a link to some pictures from this weekend. Two are not from St. Mary's. One is a TT dog..... my big blockhead, Bubba! He is the perfect dog for the Queen of Waterfalls since he gots to get in the river! Went with me this weekend. The other is a falls not in St. Marys but I'll bet ya HOI and Geo know where it is! ;-)

Here's the link.
St. Marys Wilderness”

“Neat pix. No, I'm not at all familiar with the one labelled Glen Falls.

The streambed shot looks like the spot where Creek Dancer earned her name.

Gawd Dana, you made me homesick!”

“Don't go getting like that.
Those mountains and streams aren't going anywhere. They are wonderfully patient and will stay right there til you come home. You'd better watch yourself or if you're not careful you'll meet up with a wild woman in thar. See? Those three dudes didn't know what had hit 'em.

The falls are on Foundry Hill coming down Hwy 56. Anna Lee and Glen Humprhies place by the site of the old Vesuvius Iron Foundry!”

“Okey Dokey, now I remember. Beautiful Downtown Vesuvius, world famous site of the N&W grade crossing.”

“Hey This is my first post on this forum but when I lived in a cabin in the remote Va. mtns in the mid to late 90's St. Mary's was one of my favorite hikes so I couldn't resist.Anyway I use to have secret ways to get to many popular locations and since I now live in Fl I guess I can now mention this one for those off trail types among you.I hated that main trail particularly with crowds and always liked offtrail wandering and plenty of elevation change so I would always start above at the trailhead right off the Blue Ridge Parkway(I can never remember trail names either).You would hike down a good ways until it ended at another trail that circles around past some old mineworks and then eventually connects with the main trail in from the valley.Only you just take this trail about a 1/4-1/2 mile then hang a right off into the laurel lol but nothing unpassable.You continue on until you get to a rock field scramble down to the falls area.I guarantee you you will not need to worry about flooding.The key though is to go far enough west before cutting down that you miss the sheer dropoffs and hit the rock scramble area.I had the trail marked at the cutoff but aways went a slightly different way each time.I also liked some of those rock scrambles on the other side of the falls.I would usually go on a weekday where you rarely saw others anyway.Beautiful place and the hike back up to the parkway that route will give you a little uphill.”

“the trail off the parkway is called the mine bank trail.

i'm planning on doing off trail in the south/southeast area of st. marys this spring. there aren't any mapped trails around this portion that i am aware of.”

“Thanks for the input RWTB! LOL
Reading your post got me to giggling. My Dad likes to tell this story on my Mom. She's from Irish Creek. Our people still live up near Whetstone Ridge on the Blue Ridge Parkway. First date he had with Ma he took her home and it was getting on to evening. She told him to stop the car on the parkway. He came to a stop and she jumped out. Told him she'd see him at the house and took off through the woods. He was sitting there with his jaw down in his lap. Sure enough he got to the house and there she was on the front stomp with Granny. He said "You can take the girl out of the mountains, but ya cain't take the mountains outta the girl." ;-)
So when people call me wild woman. I don't feel so bad.”

“Bubba got a big head.......Newfie?”

“No, but doesn't he look alot like one!? He's beautiful. Looks dumb as hell, but he'll fool ya. LOL
Has a tounge like a big purple foot hanging out of his mouth alot of the time.
His momma is a purebred cinnamon chow. Dad is a purebred black lab.
He has all the wonderful qualities of both breeds and none of the bad ones. If anything ever happens to him... I want another one just like him.
If I lived in a cooler climate I'd love to own a Newfie. Southern weather would make a Newfoundland miserable. I live near enough to water for that kind of dog. I have enough patience to work with one to help train it, but its too darn hot in TN for the poor creatures.
Bubba can speak soft and loud. Play dead. Roll over. Fetch. Sit. Stay. Heal. Seek. say his prayers. Give me a high five. shake paws.
When I trained him on all his tricks..... I would respond to the wrong action by looking away and not saying anything. It worked too well. Now if he doesn't want to do a thing.... he looks away. ;-)”

“No problem dana I enjoyed your report and photos.The falls area is great during summer with its natural jacuzzis.
I have actually lived much of my life within 2-20 miles of the parkway.So I guess when people call me "running with the backpack" I won't feel bad either j/k.”