September in the Sierra TR

“September in the Sierra ~ A Backpacking Trip across the Tablelands of Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks ~ September 20-24, 2004 ~ BearCrossing, BearCrossing's best friend Andrew, Ol-Zeke, and Hikerduane

Last Saturday evening I drove up to Fresno to pick up my best friend Andrew who flew in from Colorado for this trip. We decided to drive straight up to Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks afterwards even though we did not arrive there until after midnight. We saw a bear running along the road on the drive up then car camped at the 4th unit of the Big Meadows Campground in the bit of Sequoia National Forest that lies between the parks.

On Sunday morning we woke up to some sleet falling on the tent. A fast moving storm was predicted to move through the area and move out on Monday. It was certainly cold but it cleared up as we packed up the tent and then drove over to Horse Camp to meet Hikerduane and Ol-Zeke. This was a day to just do a few day hikes and prepare for our trip. So we drove a short distance to Buck Rock, a manned (womanned?) fire lookout on the forest. The wind up there was bitter cold but the views attained were worth it! I marveled at the fast moving clouds and the high altitude hummingbirds that were braving the wind to fly up to the feeder. We schmoozed a bit with the lookout then headed down.





We then headed over to Grant Grove and Andrew rented his bear canister from the market. We hiked the ½ mile paved loop trail to see the General Grant Tree then ate lunch at a picnic area nearby. Hikerduane had never seen giant sequoias before and I hope he enjoyed the many big ones in that grove :)



Then we drove out to a remote area of the forest where the Kennedy Grove is. We hiked about 3 miles into and out of the grove and saw many more big trees. We got a little bit of snow falling on us as we were hiking but it was just enough to make for a pretty walk and it did not stick. I have now been to 26 giant sequoia groves!



Then it was back over to the Big Meadows area of the forest where we stayed in the Big Meadows Guard Station for the night. It was a bitter cold night so I’m glad we were in the cabin! We roasted hot dogs and marshmellows and told stories ‘round the woodstove. The cabin rents for $100/night but I got a free night's stay for winning a wilderness photo contest last year.

In the morning we packed up and headed to Lodgepole to obtain our wilderness permit. Hikerduane also needed to buy a toothbrush and Andrew some tea. Then we were off to the Wolverton Trailhead, elevation about 7,400‘. From the trailhead we headed up the Lakes Trail which climbs steadily to a rock outlook called the Watchtower then it heads back into three glacial basins and past three lakes finally terminating at Pear Lake.



The trail was dusted with snow and it was a chilly morning as we set out. Ol-Zeke set the pace up the trail and Andrew followed him then me and Hikerduane. About 3 miles up the trail Andrew realized he had forgotten his rain/wind shell! At the Watchtower he decided to turn back and retrieve it. Ol-Zeke offered to wait for him while Hikerduane and I continued up the trail.



Despite spending two nights at around 6,000’ before the trip and dayhiking I think I experienced a few symptoms of altitude sickness during the trip. At times I felt dizzy and nauseous but nothing too serious so I just took it slow and stopped to drink and eat snacks more often. At Pear Lake, elevation 9,510’, Hikerduane and I chose a campsite just as snow began to fall again. We hurriedly put up our tents and just as they were up Ol-Zeke and Andrew showed up. The snow then let off and we were treated to a clear but cold night. That was the last of the weather that we would experience on the trip.



We got a pretty early start the next morning and left the trail to hike cross-country up to Moose Lake. This involved spotting a route through, up, and around granitic boulders and slabs. The route is not hard to find, however, you just hike up to the saddle east of the lake and then aim for the lone tree on the horizon. We took a break at the lone tree then continued around a couple of small lakes then up up up to the ridge above Moose Lake. I told the guys to prepare themselves for a spectacular view to unfold up there! They were not disappointed with the view of the Great Western Divide as viewed from the ridge west of Moose Lake.



We then made our way straight down to Moose Lake, elevation 10,530’, and there we camped. It was not a long day of hiking but because I was still adjusting to the altitude and Andrew had hiked 14 miles the day before we decided we all could use an easy day. Hikerduane fished that afternoon and caught quite a few little brook trout. I took a swim then napped until dinnertime. We heard a coyote and pikas chirping and saw a kestrel soaring through the air that afternoon. After dinner we sat in a circle using our sleeping bags to keep us warm and we played a game of Pass the Pigs then talked until we were sleepy.



On Wednesday we began the trek across the Tablelands to the Kings/Kaweah Divide, or the border between Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. Hikerduane and I saw a garter snake on this portion of our hike, he seemed to be retreating to shade once having warmed himself in the sunshine. Once reaching the divide we realized we were a little west of where we wanted to be; instead of looking down Deadman Canyon we were looking down on Ferguson Canyon. No worries, we just headed southeast a little and found the little lake the straddles the divide above Deadman Canyon and the Big Bird Lakes, elevation about 11,900‘. We decided to drop our packs there and dayhike down to the middle Big Bird Lakes.



This was to be our hardest part of the trip. Down down down we went, 1,000’ or more in what couldn’t have been a half mile, down very steep and challenging terrain and then we had to go up up up again. But oh what a beautiful lake to spend the afternoon by! This middle Big Bird lake sits at the foot of a 2,000’ granite cliff and its waters are a clear turquoise blue… The memory of its beauty will never leave me.





We then headed back up to the lake on the divide, the lake that was on top of the world it seemed. We ate dinner then I headed to bed. The boys stayed up just a little bit longer and then they too turned in.



On Thursday we packed up then headed down to lower elevations. We headed towards the big lake on the north end of the Tablelands, elevation about 10,600’. There we took a break then headed south into Table Meadows. Hikerduane and I flushed out a pair of mountain blue birds right before finding a nice campsite at a lake at about 10,100'. The lake is a beauty and Andrew, Hikerduane, and I decided to go for a swim. Man, that it was frigid swim! Andrew yelped like a little girl when he swam out to a rock, lol But it was good to get cleaned up The boys then scouted the route for the next day while I took it easy at the lake.





That night ended up being our warmest and we stayed up quite a long time playing poker. It was fun learning to play and we laughed at trying to see cards with the light of just one headlamp.



On Friday we woke up with the sun and packed up and headed down the river. This is where the Marble Fork of the Kaweah originates. It was about 2 miles of pretty simple and straightforward cross-country hiking to get to Pear Lake. Ol-Zeke as usual had the lead and he spotted and watched several mule deer for a while. When we saw him we crept to where he was standing and we saw the deer as well.



At Pear Lake we took a short break then headed the rest of the way home. We hadn’t seen a single person nor a trail for 3 days.

The hike back was a hard one, all in all we did over 9 miles and dropped about 4,000’. Right before we got to Heather Lake a blister on my toe forced me to ditch my boots and I hiked the last 4 miles or so in my Tevas. Oh how my feet hurt when we finally made it to the trailhead!

We then drove back to Grant Grove, returned Andrew’s bear canister, then headed down to Squaw Valley where Ol-Zeke treated us all to a gigantic supreme pizza and a pitcher of beer at Bear Mountain Pizza.

All in all it was a fabulous trip! I loved hiking with each of the guys and I appreciate them slowing down at times for me and my shorter stride. Ol-Zeke had great stories to tell and I appreciated his vast bp’ing experience. Hikerduane followed me for most of the trip and helped me in many sticky steep spots. Andrew, as he always has been, is one of my favorite people to hike with…

Ol-Zeke's Photos”

“Thanks for sharing your trip and letting me see yet another place I want to visit. It looks/sounds like it was a wonderful trip.”

“Great trip, report and pictures. This needs to go to the top of the heap where it won't be missed (bump). You guys are now my photography role models. Don't tell Buck.”

“Wonderful trip report and pictures Bearcrossing. I'd like to get out to Big Bear Lake and Deadman's canyon - I think I'm going to do an early trip out to that area next year.”

“Altitude sickness sucks!

Nice shot of the hummingbird feeder. At first glance, I thought it was just floating out there (it doesn't take much to confuse me).”

“Thanks guys :) I finally got all my pics up on my website! September in the Sierra TR”

“Great photos and TR BC.”

“Danke schoen LZ :)”

“What a beautiful area you were at..I have read about the tablelands area and always wondered about it. Pear & Moose lakes are beautiful! I love the hummingbird picture.

Thank you Bearcrossing for sharing your pictures and your report, which was great to read.”

“Thanks madeintahoe :)”