It's a Crash! Bang! Trailjournals Thang!

“nice reports CB, keep them coming”

“Destination: Andover Guest House
Starting Location: Baldpate Lean-to
Today's Miles: 8.00
Trip Miles: 1757.50

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The highlight of the day was Baldpate Mt, and a more lonely seeming stretch of country-side I cannot imagine. Sheer desolation was all around as I scrambled up the steep, bare face, and briefly losing a water bottle. Looking back down from the peak, I saw Pete slowly closing ground between he and I, like some lonely tracker stalking his quarry.
Jolly Time, Pete, and I just barely got a hitch into town. JT had been thumbing for about 5 or 10 minutes and someone stopped for him. He heard Pete and I talking down the trail, and stalled long enough to wait for us to catch up. I don't know why he didn't just ask the driver to wait.

Stayed at the Andover Guest House. Nice place, but the lady is kinda weird. So is her dog. Just keeps pacing back and forth and she keeps yelling at it when it barks and growls.”

“Destination: South Arm Road
Starting Location: Andover Guest House
Today's Miles: 10.10
Trip Miles: 1767.60

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It was nice to sleep in a bed last night, but back on the trail I go. Pete decided to stay another day. Can't say I blame him. Ran into Mouse (haven't seen her in a long time), Party Girl, and the Hobbits. They were slackpacking the section I was doing today, in reverse, and staying at The Cabin in East Andover. The owners had given them the most hideous dresses to wear while their laundry was washing (see picture). Holly Hobbit's was especially eye-aching. Party Girl's was kind of sort of pretty, in a dorky old-fashioned way. All kidding aside, I've not heard of a hostel on the trail that got so much raving about what a great place it is and how kind the owners were since Ms. Janet's. Tales of generosity beyond wildest imaginings. I really hope I get a chance to go back there some day and see if it is all true.
Set up camp next to South Arm Road and Black Brook. Found some trail magic in the stream in the form of cold cokes. Very cool. Up and Down were on the other side of the stream, secluded in the trees. I looked around and found a large campsite just off the trail. Nice warm night with no threat of rain, so I decided to sleep outside tonight.”

“I stayed at Pine Ellis. Some of the finest folks on the trail. Spent 3 days there slackpacking just because of their hospitality. Friendly people in the town of Andover as well ('cept for the crazy beeyatch at the Guest House). Stratton was also a town I really like. There's a new guy, Dan, who bought a hostel and is remodeling another building out of town for the same use. Free internet, free long distance phone calls, short shuttles also free. I don't know how long this will last because he's new to the business, but a heck of a nice guy.”

“pine ellis is where pete moved to the second night

i stayed at the widows walk in stratton. as a matter of fact, i zeroed there. almost double zeroed there to watch the colts play new england on mnf season opener. glad i didnt.

theres some morbid story behind how widows walk got its name. cant recall the details right now, tho”

“i think im going to scan the rest of the pics at slightly higher dpi. not 200, tho. my dial-up cant handle that”

“A real widows walk is a exterior walking area on the upper floor of a house looking out over the ocean. It's where the spouse (potential widow) of a seagoing man walked and looked to see if the ship would safely come in. When it didn't, she'd cash in the insurance policy and tell her boy friend it was ok to come out from under the bed. Or something like that.”

“Destination: Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to
Starting Location: South Arm Road
Today's Miles: 17.00
Trip Miles: 1784.60

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Longest day in over two weeks, since right before the Whites, when I did 20 miles into Glencliff. Tough climb to Old Blue, and then the 5 peaks of Bemis, but not White Mountain tough. Once on top of the ridgeline was an occasional view, windy, and right at but not quite above tree-line, where you get the stunted evergreen trees and the occasional bare spot. Some beautiful, pristine ponds today, including Moxie, Long, and Sabbath Day Ponds. An older couple were spending a couple of days at the Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to today, basically base-camping there and doing dayhikes, after having hiked in from the road. They were very friendly and told me about seeing moose there at the campsite. I waited and looked but never saw one. I did see some movement of some small animal in the trees. I tried to get a look at it but never saw what it was.

www.trailjournals.com/crashbang”

“Destination: Eddy Pond
Starting Location: Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to
Today's Miles: 13.10
Trip Miles: 1797.70

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Hitched a ride into Rangeley today for supplies. Labor Day crowds were out in full force, so no problem getting a ride. Got pizza and stuffed myself at the Red Onion Restaurant. Highly recommended. Been having more problems with my trekking poles (bottom section does not want to lock in place), but this time there was no place that was knowledgeable enough to fix them, so I bought new ones. Upon re-reading, I guess I did not clarify in my journal, that when I was in North Woodstock, I did finally get them fixed at LaHouts, it just took me forever to get to the store that would do it.
Went to the grocery store, still stuffed, and after I bought the few groceries I needed, I bought a small strawberry milk. You know how you're right at the line where you've had enough, you can't eat anymore, and then you get one more little thing, and that's too much? Well, the milk was too much.

Feeling bloated, I made my way to the road and hitched back to the trail. The hike to the road, I didn't see anybody. But once I got back on the trail, it was lousy with weekend warriors and dayhikers. I don't sneer down my nose at weekend warriors, because other than this 6-month jaunt, that's all I usually am. Many were coming back from Piazza Rock, maybe even some were coming back from Saddleback Mt or The Horn, making for an 11 or 13 mile round-trip.

According to Wingfoot, camping is not allowed at Eddy Pond, so I figured I would get water at the pond and look for someplace near, but not at the pond to set up my tent. When I got there, there was no sign indicating no camping, and there was a nice spacious campsite right at the pond and just off the trail. I figured Wingfoot to be wrong (it wouldn't be the first time), and set up camp, took a dip in the cold water, cooked dinner, went for a walk down the nearby logging road, and went to bed.”

“Destination: Spaulding Mt Lean-to
Starting Location: Eddy Pond
Today's Miles: 15.00
Trip Miles: 1812.70

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What a magical day today! The tough climb up was rewarded with fantastic views today. Uphills are always easier when you're above treeline and being rewarded as you climb. As a matter of fact "above" and "treeline" have got to be my two favorite words when hiking, because that almost always means terrific views.
Not above cloudline, however. The potential for being within eyesight of Katahdin was stifled by the cloudy day. That did not matter, however, for the low-lying clouds drifted around the surrounding mountains, making for islands of rock and tree in an ocean of fluffy white. It was quite beautiful, and I took many pictures which I will include in upcoming journal pages, including today's entry.

According to an interesting pamphlet at Poplar Ridge Lean-to, there are no poplars on or anywhere near Poplar Ridge. There once were, but they were consumed by a fire long ago.

Was tempted to go down Mt. Abraham side-trail and see it's promised "spectacular vistas", but it was 1.7 miles one-way.”

“Destination: Widow's Walk Boarding House, Stratton, ME
Starting Location: Spaulding Mt Lean-to
Today's Miles: 13.50
Trip Miles: 1826.20

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Shortly after the start of the day, I passed the 200 miles-to-go point. I am now sitting at 187.8 miles from the top of Katahdin, with New Jersey and New York to make up after that.
Coming up Crocker Mt, the high elevation point of the day at just over 4200 feet, I was grunting and sweating and taunting the mountain loudly, mentally propelling myself up with bravado and curses. Hearing this was the cleverly named One-Leg, attempting a thru-hike on one good and one prosthetic leg. He seemed a little alarmed. At the top of the hill I met trail celeb Baltimore Jack, patiently reading a book. We chatted for a bit, and then I moved on to the easy part of my day.

Got a room at the Widow's Walk in Stratton, an on-again, off-again, quaint little boarding house with reasonable rates.”

“Destination: Widow's Walk
Starting Location: Widow's Walk Boarding House, Stratton, ME
Today's Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1826.20

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Rest day. Good breakfast prepared by a friend of the proprietor's.”

“Destination: Horn's Pond Lean-to
Starting Location: Widow's Walk
Today's Miles: 5.10
Trip Miles: 1831.30

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According to the schedule I had set for myself back at Gorham, I am now more than a day behind if I want to get to Abol Bridge before my parents do, but if I can make up a little time and make it exactly one day behind schedule, then I should get there at about the same time. The plan is to meet them at Abol Bridge Campground, just outside Baxter State Park, and then the next day, hike the 10 miles to The Birches campsite, meet them there again, and the following day summit Katahdin, and then leave the trail temporarily before I finish the section I skipped back in July.
Dreary day today. A light mist ramped up to a steady, cold drizzle hiking out of town. At one point I got off the trail and stepped into a privy just to get warm. It's killing me to miss the Colts season opener, especially since it is against the New England Patriots (boo!), but I can't afford to lose any more time or spend any more money on lodging.

The steady rain decided my mind for me, that I would stay here after only making 5 miles. The shelter is spacious, and there is good company. I'll just sit and eat and chat all day, I guess. The caretaker came and talked to us for a bit, sharing trail gossip and the like. The shelter site is comprised of two sleeping shelters, some rough tentsites, and one temporary (not for sleeping) shelter next to the trail.

Later on some college kids showed up, their only shelter a large tarp that they all slept under. The caretaker talked them into coming into the shelter for their own health and safety, for the weather was bad. The Friar came into the shelter to visit, but did not take his pack off or sit down, for he wanted to get on to Little Bigelow Lean-to 10 miles further, 1000 feet up, and then 3000 feet down, with probably exposure up high. That was my goal for the day, but with the weather not nice, I kept shortening my goal for the day, thinking I might stop at one campsite or another. Unfortuneately, none of the sites between here and Bigelow had shelters, so I would have been forced to set up in the rain, so I stayed here.”

“Destination: West Carry Pond Lean-to
Starting Location: Horn's Pond Lean-to
Today's Miles: 17.50
Trip Miles: 1848.80

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Gotta start making up time today. I figure by the time I get to the 100-mile wilderness, I can be back to within a day of the itinerary I set for myself at Gorham, and then follow the schedule exactly as written. I just won't get to take a rest day at Abol Bridge, which is fine. That's why I made the schedule with some lee-way, in case I got behind.
The top of the climb today, up and over Bigelow Mt and Avery Peak was very rocky, exposed, steep, and windy. I don't know how Friar made it over in that rain last night without slipping on the wet rock and killing himself. Just the stiff wind (better than rain) made me feel like I was in an epic adventure movie, struggling against all odds to (fill in the blank with favorite adventure plot).

A little more than halfway through the day, I reached Little Bigelow Lean-to. To get to the shelter, one must first step over a very precarious "bridge": a downed tree across a stream. Friar did it in the dark, according to the shelter register. What an adventurer! But then, at that point, he didn't have much choice.”

“Destination: Rivers & Trails Hostel, Caratunk, ME
Starting Location: West Carry Pond Lean-to
Today's Miles: 13.00
Trip Miles: 1861.80

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Took a leisurely dip in East Carry Pond shortly into the day. Looked hopefully for moose at Pierce Pond Lean-to, still no joy. The area was pretty, however. Crossed a beaver dam at Pierce Pond, then on to a rugged dowclimb to the Kennebec. At this point, the trail followed a tributary, and the steep slope provided the occasional small waterfall. Finally to the famous Kennebec River crossing. It's hard to believe that at one time hikers were forced to ford this river. The river is close to 100 yards wide, and looks to be about waist or chest-high. There is a dam upstream that releases water from time to time, "and you cannot cross faster than the water rises once it starts to rise", according to Wingfoot. In '85 a hiker drowned trying to get across, and since that time, they have used a ferry service to get across. I think it is amazing that it took someone's death to prompt such a basic safety measure, since all it is, is a guy in a canoe paddling back and forth during limited hours. Coming by himself from the north bank, Steve, the ferryman, was able to make a beeline for me, standing in his boat, to the south shore. However, taking himself, myself, and my pack from the south shore to the north shore was a different story. This was to be no leisurely ride across. I had to work! The strategy was to paddle upstream sufficiently so that when we where fighting our way across the current, and we were being pushed downstream, the result was that we would diagonally float to the north shore with only a moderate effort. It was really fun and exciting. A white blaze was painted into the bottom of the canoe, in case anyone objected to doing part of the trail not under their own legpower. There's an orange-blazed trail, about a mile and a half north of the river crossing. It goes down a very steep hill and the route is confusing. I do not suggest taking that way. The nights are starting to get cooler now as summer is coming to an end and I'm getting further north. Still mostly pleasant weather with little rain and lots of sunshine during the day. From my open window in the bunkhouse, I can hear some blues guitar being played at a nearby music festival. It's a very sweet way to end the day.”

“Destination: Bald Mt Brook Lean-to
Starting Location: Rivers & Trails Hostel, Caratunk, ME
Today's Miles: 14.60
Trip Miles: 1876.40

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Well, if I thought trying to follow that yellow blazed trail down was bad, trying to follow it up was even worse! So much so that I finally gave up and caught a ride with Steve back to the road crossing as he was driving back to do more ferrying in the morning. So I ended up hiking that mile and a half from the road to the side-trail twice. I guess that makes up for some of the sections of road-walking I've missed.
Set up camp next to the brook and just before the shelter site. There's a nice little slot canyon, a nice little slice in the rock several feet deep, carved out by the stream. Got myself a good cold shower underneath one of the little waterfalls it created.

With another lovely day in the wilderness behind me, I fell asleep to the sound of the babbling brook beside me, one of my favorite things to do in the wild.”

“The mileage counter says 18.7. That's how many AT miles I walked today. But I guarantee I walked 20 today.

It was a long day, it has been a long trip, the rest and relaxation of my last zero day was almost a week in the past, and I am getting weary. Oddly enough, it did not help that the day was almost entirely level, punctuated near the beginning of the day with a small bump up fog-covered Moxie Bald, as the trail was slick and mud-covered. I think when I'm going uphill, the adrenaline and endorphins really kick in and push me forward, making me forget my tiredness. No such thing happens on level ground, and I just get weary.

I got my moose-sighting today, but no trail-magic that I had heard rumor of. This was not my first moose (I've seen them on Isle Royale and a bull in Colorado), but it was my first AT moose, so that was cool. I have now seen a bear (still only one bear, can you believe it?) and a moose, along with a bobcat, a rattlesnake, and other critters. Ran into Hawk today. Man that guy can fly now! Not like the Hawk of old. Maybe he was holding back. His wife has been slack-packing him for the last several days now, that probably helps.

Just when I thought the day would never end, I came to Lake Hebron and the blue-blazed side-trail. Yippee! I'm minutes away from the road and a hitch into town! Not so fast, partner. Just before the road, I took a wrong turn down a snowmobile path, and walked for probably 2 miles (that's where the rest of the 20 comes in) before running into a country road. Frustration was running high. By the time I decided I was defineitely on the wrong path, I had gone probably a mile and figured I might as well keep on going and I'll find a road into town, or maybe run into town. No such luck. I turned right onto the country road, and came to a house, hoping to ask for directions. I walked into the yard shouting "hello?". No answer. I wonder if any other hikers have made the same mistake as I and come out at these people's houses. Probably not. Only I could take such a majestically wrong turn. I take that back. Slowpoke could do that, and worse, because he has.

Anyway, I kept walking and found the highway into Monson. Not knowing whether to go left or right, I flagged down a truck turning off the highway and heading down the country road. He told me to go right, and if I was still there when he came back through, he'd give me a ride to Monson. Eventually, his ride was not necessary, as a kind lady stopped to pick me up. We went over the hill, and as soon as we crested the top, Monson was there just a few hundred yards away. I stood there at the road crossing for probably 45 minutes waiting for a ride to pick me up, and after all I had been through, I could have walked there in 5 minutes! I had no idea how close I was. I could not help but laugh at the situation. Sorta like the Everest climbers dying within several yards of their basecamp (but not that extreme).

I got to Shaw's after everyone else had dinner. There was still plenty left, though. Keith Shaw sat at the table and poured me milk, and made it his occupation to make sure I did not go away from the table wanting. The Shaw's are a kindly old couple, loved by thousands of thru-hikers who have passed through over the years. The business is in their son's name, but they are the heart and soul of the boarding house. (note: as of this writing, Keith Shaw has been passed away for quite some time, and the business is up for sale. I hope someone buys it and continues the tradition, and honors his memory. Rest In Peace, Mr Shaw)

My last (hopefully) frightfully long day behind me, I settle down in my tent, opting for the cheaper and quieter option of sleeping outside. Tomorrow I gear up for the last leg before Big K: the 100-mile wilderness.”
last edited: 1/29/06 1:59:56 PM”

“there. i dont wanna hear anymore birching about too much fuego and not enough backpacking reports. y'all should thank me for making your miserable little lives a little bit more tolerable

thats a joke, btw

;-)”

“Thanks for posting this, CB. I've really enjoyed reading your reports.”

“wow. 10 entries today (ok, so one of them was two short sentences). i think thats a record for me. i can finally feel the end closing in. just the 100 mile wilderness plus nj/ny to write. that last part wont take long”

“just a little test to see if its worth it to switch from 100 dpi to 150 dpi





last edited: 1/29/06 3:12:28 PM”

“awww...look at the cute little eastern hills!”

“i dont know why, but all of a sudden my scanner has taken a big dump. i may have to finish scanning at the library”

“Destination: Shaw's
Starting Location: Shaw's Lodging, Monson, ME
Today's Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1895.10

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Holy cow! Best breakfast ever this morning! Pat is an ok cook, but Keith and Keith Jr can make breakfast for me anytime! Even if I wasn't already staying an extra day, I would do it just for the breakfast! All you can eat eggs cooked to order, bacon, sausage, home fries, pancakes (alternated with french toast day-to-day), juice, coffee, milk, and all prepared tasty and perfect.
Went to the grocery store a couple towns over with Keith later in the day. Got some big delicious-looking triple-berry muffins to take on the trail. Can't wait to get started on my way.”

“Destination: Wilson Valley Lean-to
Starting Location: Shaw's
Today's Miles: 13.70
Trip Miles: 1908.80

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Another knock your socks off breakfast. Same as yesterday, with french toast, my favorite breakfast meal, instead of pancakes. I had 3 of everything, and plenty to wash it down with. I left my headlamp behind at Caratunk, so I bought another one from Mr Shaw, and then he took me to trail. I was especially annoyed myself when I saw how close I was to the road before I took my wrong turn at the trailhead. 3 and a quarter miles of hiking brought me to state highway 15 and the border of the "100 mile wilderness". For the most part, I have been writing this journal for those at least partially familiar with the Appalachian Trail, but for those that are not, the "Wilderness" is a stetch of the AT that is 99.2 miles long with no paved road crossings or any other sign of civilization. It is a land legendary on the AT, that conjures up images of endless forest and mountains, with only the moose and bears for company. It may not be exactly like that, but that is how iconic it has grown. Just a tenth-mile in, I stopped at aptly named Spectacle Pond, and soaked in all the beautiful glory around me. The pond stretched back southwards, and despite my close proximity to the road behind me, it was like I had stepped into a C.S. Lewis wardrobe where time and distance have no meaning, for I could see nor hear no trace of civilization behind me. It was all very inviting and relaxing. Later on in the day, I crossed a beaver dam. Big sucker, too. All the magic was gone in an instant, a few miles later, however, when I slipped fording Big Wilson Stream. I had been carrying my camera in my pocket, and as I turned to ask either Diesel or Maya Guez(I don't remember which, now) to take my camera and stash it up high on my pack, I slipped on the slick rock I had been standing on, and splashed down into the stream, submerging myself and everything on me. It was a warm day, I didn't mind getting wet (very much), or even my clothes because they're drying nicely, but my camera and film appears to be ruined, and I do not believe any amount of drying out will help. Now I know why wet chickens are so mad. I picked myself up, hastily forded the river now that I didn't have to be careful, and stormed my way up the final three-quarters of a mile to the shelter site, crossing the Canadian Pacific tracks along the way. In camp, anger turned into sadness that I would have no pictures of the 100-mile wilderness, for Monson was a day behind now, and there would be no opportunity to buy a disposable camera until the store at Abol Bridge Campground. Seeing that I was inconsolable, Treefrog gave me some hot chocolate, and I was cheered some by the kind gesture. Thru-hikers look out for each other.”

“i dont know why trailjournals is dispensing with my paragraph breaks. very annoying
last edited: 1/30/06 6:46:42 PM”

“thanx for the read”

“i got the problem with the paragraph breaks fixed”

“Destination: Chairback Gap Lean-to
Starting Location: Wilson Valley Lean-to
Today's Miles: 15.60
Trip Miles: 1924.40

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Crossed the 100-miles to go mark today. As of right now, we are 88.5 miles from the top of Katahdin. If all goes according to plan, in 8 days I will be celebrating the reaching of Katahdin. Some people are in a hurry to get it over with, but I look at it this way: when I finish the trail, that also means I will be leaving the trail. So no hurry here.
Still really peeved about having no camera. Damn thing still doesn't work and the film is ruined. Passed by Slugundy Gorge. Ha. Funny name. NIce view from atop Columbus Mt, half a mile before the day's end. Water was a pain to get to tonight. Down a very steep section of the AT, just as it was getting dark.

Lots of people at the site tonight. I've decided that I'm going to tent the rest of the way through Maine. Before I started the trail, all I ever heard was how there was hardly any people once you got into Maine, yet ever since Franconia Notch back in New Hampshire, it seems like we've all been bunched up in a hiker traffic jam that never unfurls.”

“Destination: Carl A Newhall Lean-to
Starting Location: Chairback Gap Lean-to
Today's Miles: 9.90
Trip Miles: 1934.30

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So far, there's only been one poorly marked spot on the Maine AT, but it could not have come at a worse place: the descent of Chairback Mt., a steep, precipitous downclimb with huge boulders, and a lack of white blazes led to much indecision on my part. I finally decided to take the straight-down path, only to find that was not the right way, so I made my way back up again until I found the blazes again, this time noticing a veering to the left, and off I was.
The weather is beautiful today. After a few miles I took the opportunity to sunbathe on a large rock for several minutes, like a giant two-legged north-woods lizard. The sun and the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere were intoxicating, and I eventually headed on down the trail feeling refreshed and revitalized.

Skipped the Gulf Hagas Trail (billed as the Grand Canyon of the east, probably an exaggeration) in favor of hanging out most of the afternoon with some kind former thru-hikers doing some trail magic. They brought lots of snacks and drinks and just about the most delicious mouth-watering chocolate chip cookies I've ever eaten. I love food.”

“Destination: East Branch Lean-to
Starting Location: Carl A Newhall Lean-to
Today's Miles: 10.80
Trip Miles: 1945.10

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Getting chilly now. Saw what I think was Katahdin today, small and far away.”

“Destination: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Starting Location: East Branch Lean-to
Today's Miles: 8.10
Trip Miles: 1953.20

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Took a short day today. Party Girl talked me into it. I was going to go on to Antlers Campsite 8 miles further and be that much further ahead of schedule (actually, I'd still be behind schedule, but ahead of the new schedule), but eventually decided that it would be pointless just to get a half-day ahead when I can stay here and have fun. Besides, it is a really beautiful spot and Party Girl is cool people.
PG, Joker, Medicine Man, and The Lorax are doing the 100 mile Wilderness without tents, planning to stay in shelters the entire way. I think they're foolhardy, but what do I know? It is especially problematic for PG and MM and their little trail romance (no privacy).

Lots of people showed up at the campsite. There must be at least 20 of us here, including Beagle and Moo Juice. Yay! Fell asleep to the burbling of Cooper Brook, a scenic stream out of a picture-book.”

“dropped my camera in the river in the 100 mile wilderness, so all or most of remaining pictures will be from baxter, where i was able to buy a camera”