It's a Crash! Bang! Trailjournals Thang!

“actually, i bought the camera at abol bridge. there are no stores in baxter”

“Destination: White House Landing
Starting Location: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Today's Miles: 13.80
Trip Miles: 1967.00

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Got up early this morning and busted butt down the trail as quickly as possible, for I heard tonight's destination, White House Landing, serves lunch, but they quit somewhat early and it's nearly 15 miles (including blue-blazed trail) plus a boat-ride to get there.
On the way, many of us stopped at Pemadumcook Lake, just off the AT. For anyone hiking the 100-mile wilderness, this is a must, especially if you have never seen Katahdin. Some others, including Party Girl and her traveling companions (who I refer to as the Four Horsemen, for they are all strong hikers) were already there. I stepped out of the clearing, and as soon as my eyes landed on it, I was struck dumb. There it was. The Big K. Katahdin. "Greatest Mountain" in the tongue of the Abenaki. A giant standing four thousand feet higher than the low-lying forest at its feet. I estimate that, as the crow flies, it was about 30 miles away, but it still loomed large in our view.

Normally, I won't go a mile down a blue-blazed trail, but for a one-pound burger, as the trail rumor had it, I'll make an exception. Plus, I need to re-supply. Finally reached the end of the trail with the Four Horsemen, and blew the airhorn to let the people across the lake know there were hungry hikers waiting.

Unfortuneately, we were too late for lunch, but no fear, there were plenty of snacks to be had, including giant chocolate chip cookies, and dinner would be coming up in a few hours. As the afternoon passed, more hikers showed up. We all made ourselves at home in the cabins, some took showers (I had for some reason grown attached to my hiker funk and decided to dispense with the shower), some paddled canoes, and all relaxed. I got into a really good book "10 Million Steps", about a man who thru-hiked the East Coast Trek, or ECT, an endeavor which includes all of the AT, and runs from Key West, Florida, to Gaspe, Ontario. In length, it is TWICE that of the AT, and includes the Florida, Benton McCaye, Pinhoti, and International Appalachian Trails.

Dinner was eventually served, and the one-pound burger did not disappoint. All went to bed satisfied and geared up for the final push to Big K.”

“

clockwise from left:

The Lorax, Medicine Man, The Crash! Bang! Thang!, Party Girl, Joker, and a couple of people whose names i forget”

“

less than 2 months later he would be diagnosed with lung cancer
last edited: 2/02/06 5:21:02 PM”

“excellent report, great pictures.”

“thank you”

“Darn good journal and pics. How about giving us some narrative for Whithouse Landing to Special K?”

“some day...”

“i had lost my notes for awhile, but i found them again as i was packing up to leave for helinka and celtic canucks house. some day...”

“At least you posted the pic here, so we know how the story ends!

On trail journals, it still has you at 1967.”

“i wasnt even born in 1967....oh nevermind”

“its not done

but

i do have it written up thru summit day on katahdin, sept 24th

www.trailjournals.com/crashbang

i hiked new jersey and new york last, so i still have to write those”

“Destination: The Birches Campsite
Starting Location: Abol Bridge Campground
Today's Miles: 9.90
Trip Miles: 2007.70

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Tonight is the last night before the big climb up Katahdin, a 4200 foot tall rocky monster towering over the dark green forest of wild Maine. Before that, 10 relatively easy miles (it takes 7 1/2 miles just to gain 500 feet elevation) through gorgeously wild Baxter State Park. This is one state park that rivals many national parks for natural beauty. Established decades ago by the late Governor Percival Baxter, he donated it to the state of Maine with the stipulation that it remain forever wild: no pets, no paved roads, no electrical or sewer hook-ups, no noise, no hunting, and limited camping. The result is a jewel of a park that is about the resources first, usage second.

A couple of precarious crossings over swiftly-moving Katahdin Stream and then Foss & Knowlton Brook started the day with an adventurous note. Just a plank up high with no handholds. Not particularly scary, but not a piece of cake, either. I continued on in solitude, as I did for the entire day's hike. Sometimes a solo hike is lonely, but not this one. Not in a place with so much spirit as Baxter. A mile after the F & B came the Big Niagara Falls. Really just a little falls, having nothing on the original Niagara, but pretty nonetheless, and I had it all to myself to explore.

Shortly after the Falls I stopped at Daicey Campground, the original basecamp for summiting Katahdin. A nice little out of the way place for New England car-campers, but on the main thorough-fare if you are an AT hiker. In the spirit of the non-modern essence of the park, there were few accomodations (no complaining here), but there was a small nature library, and a gorgeous view of The Big K towering over Daicey Pond. A canoe was parked at the dock as a paddler lashed it in. Quite an idyllic scene (see 9/21 picture).

More beauty as I hiked on. Every now and then, I would catch glimpses of faraway mountains between the trees. I searched excitedly for moose at all the watering holes, but never saw one. Finally, the trail ended at a gravel road (the main road of the park). I turned right and walked for a few minutes to Katahdin Stream Campground and the park office.

The way you finish the AT is this: arrive at The Birches Campsite, just down the road from KS Campground. Spend the night there, and in the morning, most choose the options of leaving the majority of their gear at the office, since the day's hike is an out-and-back dayhike. Taking only what food and water and few other essentials are needed, climb to the peak, revel in your accomplishment, and come down the way you came up, collect your things, and head out of the park (most have a ride arranged to take them to Millinocket). Some packs were at the office, but no hikers or even park employees were around.

Finding my first destination deserted (except for car-campers), I moved on to the Birches just down the road. Treefrog and some of the others from last night were there and already set up. I set my tent up near the entrance and prepared to relax. After a short while, Mom and Dad showed up in their new bright red Durango. They walked into the campsite and hung out for a spell. Treefrog played traditional Irish songs on his flute, including "Happy Birthday" as we sung to Dad on his 57th birthday. After awhile, the air became chilly, and I bundled up, but my wimpy parents went back to their comfy motel in Millinocket. (note: This was to be my Dad's last birthday before he passed away from cancer-related complications. I'm glad he got to have a really great one, and that I was able to have it with him.)”

“Destination: Katahdin, The Big K, "Greatest Mountain" in Abenaki tongue
Starting Location: The Birches Campsite
Today's Miles: 5.20 (actually 10.4 if you count the return hike)
Trip Miles: 2012.90

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The Four Horsemen (Medicine Man, Party Girl, The Lorax, and Joker) were up by 1 am and were on the trail by 2. They had obtained official permission from a park ranger to be on the mountain before dawn. Their goal was to be on the summit and watch the sun rise. I wanted to try, but I just couldn't see myself getting up at 1. I was up by 5, and on the trail by 6, however. Good enough.
I hit the trail with just the essentials: some food, water, map, Polar Pure to treat water, and a little extra clothing. No tent or sleeping bag or other unnecessary gear to slow me down. I even left the trekking poles behind, for they would be a hindrance on the scrambling sections of the trail. It was nice to practically glide down the trail, unencumbered by more than 30 pounds on my back, briskly walking instead of slogging.

Forded Katahdin Stream carefully. Didn't need to. As I was clambering up the rocky bank, I looked left and saw the bridge I could have taken. Stupid. I had gotten so used to fording every stream in Maine, I automatically took the difficult route without looking for the standard route. Soon I came to Katahdin Stream Falls off to the left. It was pretty but shrouded by trees. The trail started getting steep at this point.

For the next mile or so, the trees gradually thinned out, and I caught glimpses of surrounding peaks. The sky was a clear blue, with just a few wispy clouds in the distance. What a fantastic day to climb a mountain. Eventually, I left the trees behind me, and I had nothing but the rocky mountain in front above me, and miles of forest below me to see. The hard, steep walk-up became a fun hand over hand scramble, never very difficult or treachorous, but enough to feel like I was really doing something. Iron rebar in places made the cliffs easier to climb, but wasn't necessary. After a short while, the simple climbing gave way to an easier incline one could walk, which in turn became another stretch of scrambling, a little longer than the first, and on a narrow ridge with more exposure than before. Not a scary climb, but loads of fun and exhilerating. I suppose a vertigo-stricken hiker would not have enjoyed it at all. Eventually I topped out on this rocky spine and entered the Tableland, a surprisingly flat and large surface of the mountain just below the summit. This lasted almost a mile and was a nice easy break before the final push to the summit. Not long after the generously seeping Thoreau Spring was the final climb of the trail, a moderate climb to the summit that was not bad at all without a full pack. The summit came sooner than I expected, for I was looking down part of the Knife Edge, a mile long stretch of fiercely rugged ridge-line, and thinking it to be part of the AT. Seeing the Four Horsemen, and then the famous sign marking not only the summit, but the northern terminus of the AT, I knew I was at my destination.

The only thing that took away from the moment was the sort of anti-climactic feeling that this was actually not the end of my journey, for I still had 261 miles in New Jersey and New York to complete the trail. However, it was gratifying nonetheless to be on the summit, the culmination of months of dreaming, planning, sweating, and aching. I had my obligatory picture on the summit sign, on top of and hanging from. Yesterday Hawk summited, and afterward he stopped at the Birches to visit, and gave me a mini-bottle of Moet & Chandon champagne to celebrate with. I took it out of my daypack, drank from it, and passed it around. The weather could not have been more perfect for a summit day. I was perfectly comfortable in shorts and short sleeves and a hat, at least until I cooled down a half hour later, then I put on a light jacket. The view was stupendous, just mountain peaks and dense green forest all the way to the horizon nearly a mile below. A nearly crystal-clear sky capped a perfect vista, and the icing on the cake was that it was just us thru-hikers on top to share it all (although the tourons did arrive some time after).

I hung out on the summit for nearly an hour, exploring side paths, including the infamous Knife Edge. My original intent was hike all of the Knife Edge out to Pamola Peak, and either return the same way, or climb down the Helon Taylor Trail to another campground below. I decided that that was something for another day, for that's a whole hike in and of itself. It is a mile long stretch that is reported to take anywhere from 1-3 hours, depending on the person.

The Four Horsemen told me they had reached the peak around 5 am (I made it around 10), and did indeed see the sun rise. They were pretty stoked about it. We went down the mountain more or less together, running into several other thru-hikers, including Catdog, Quest with his two daughters, Krispy Kritter with his lovely wife, and a few day-climbers, including one nervous young lady having some trouble with the heights on some of the more tricky parts. Eventually I left the 4 Horsemen behind, excited at having completed one of the biggest accomplishments of my life, and was running by the time I hit level ground.

I was the first thru-hiker down for the day. Unfortuneately, I got down so fast there was no one there to congratulate me, which was kind of disappointing. Eventually, lots of people showed up: my parents, Maja Guez's daughter, the families of Poppins and the Donts, Beagle, and Moo Juice. Everybody had lots of snacks and cookies and things, so we pooled them all together and had a celebration picnic, shouting and clapping and cheering whenever a newly victorious thru-hiker emerged from the woods. It finally became time to go, and I said goodbye to today's summiters, and to those camped at the Birches.
last edited: 11/14/06 6:21:20 PM”

“a picture of one of those "precarious crossings", this one over katahdin stream

http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=1094&catid=563”

“actually, nevermind. thats not it. the caption says 4 miles from baxter peak. the ones i was talking about were 8 or 9 miles out. it is, however,the bridge that i missed and just forded the stream
last edited: 11/15/06 12:38:50 PM”

“Destination: Mohican Outdoor Center
Starting Location: Delaware Water Gap
Today's Miles: 10.50
Trip Miles: 2023.40

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A little gap in the journaling here. On the 25th, I took a rest day at Millinocket Inn with my parents. We had breakfast at the Scootic In (yes, apparently that's with one "n"), which is very friendly to thru-hikers, giving them a free breakfast and posting their summit pictures. Then for dinner that night, a big bunch of us who summited yesterday and today got together for one last meal together. It was really a bittersweet occasion that I wanted to never end. We shared stories and laughter and camaraderie for one final time. Many hugs were given and a few tears were shed. It was hard to let everyone go, all those people that had meant so much to me over the past weeks or months, that I had endured so much with. The trail has been quite a bonding experience.
The next day I hit the road with my parents, but not before running into Vocal in the hotel lobby, looking all respectable without his beard and in civilized clothes. I don't think I would have known it was him if it wasn't for his unmistakeable voice. It was really good to see him.

We took two days to travel to Delaware Water Gap, where I was to reconnect with the trail to finish New Jersey and New York. Was supposed to get back on the trail yesterday, but it was raining cats and dogs, so Dad suggested we stay one more day so that I could head out in dry weather. I figured I could still do the mileage to meet Treebeard on the 9th, so I said that would be fine.

So today, 5 days after summiting Katahdin, I set off to actually finish the whole of the trail. It may seem silly to some to come back and do this relatively insignificant section, but I want to be able to say I hiked all of it. I said goodbye to Mom and Dad, bummed $40 from Dad, and walked a little way down the bridge over the Delaware River with Mom. Technically, Dad drove past a few white blazes since the trail is still in town and on the road, but it's not like they're the first white blazes I've skipped.

My re-entry into the wilderness was full of noisy civilization as I crossed the Delaware on the I-80 bridge. A little more road-walking on the other side led me to a quiet little park and finally into some more secluded woods. Skirted to the right of Sunfish Pond, where the trail was extremely buggy. I had heard of a bear attack attack here. Hope that doesn't happen to me. After a relatively easy 10 1/2 miles (6 miles to gain 1000 feet of elevation), I arrived at the Mohican Outdoor Center, the furthest south outpost of the (in)famous Appalachian Mountain Club. To a tenderfoot big-city dweller, it probably seems like a real rustic, out of the way place, but to me it was just another place to stay. They had snacks and sodas and a few tentsites, the latter being free to thrus (nice). I had dinner by the cabin and explored the grounds a little bit. Not many people were around, and it was a bit lonely. Soon I went to bed.”

“Destination: Brink Road Shelter
Starting Location: Mohican Outdoor Center
Today's Miles: 14.30
Trip Miles: 2037.70

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Not much to tell today, unless you count the FOUR BEARS I saw! The first 10 miles went by rather uneventfully. Took a break at the junction with the trail to Buttermilk Falls. Sat and rested on a log for several minutes. I got up, and was finishing buckling my pack on, and I look back down the trail southbound (glad I was going the other direction). At this point, the trail appeared to be an old forest road, easily wide enough for a car to drive. 50-70 yards away, I see two large black shapes fighting with each other, standing and pawing and biting at each other. I think "oh #&%!$!". This was not good. I'm in the middle of the woods, alone, haven't seen anyone in hours, the thru-hiker crowd is long gone, and here I am with these two aggressive, large, dangerous animals. Not good.
The wave of fear did not last long, as I calmed down and came to my senses. I knew enough about bears to know that I probably was not in any danger. Blackies do not actively seek to hurt or kill humans, and will generally avoid us at all costs. So what was initially scary turned into a cool "Mutal of Omaha's Wild Kingdom" moment, and I was prepared to study and send in my notes to Marlon Perkins.

Well, the moment I think "Oh cool", they drop to all four legs and head down the trail in my direction. "oh #&%!$" I think. No breeze, and they haven't smelled me or heard me yet, and with their poor eyesight, probably never saw me. Well, I'm not taking any chances, so I wave my hands above my head and yell "GO! GO!" One of the fighting bears runs off into the forest, along with a THIRD bear that I had not noticed before. The other fighting bear hung around to see what was going on.

Being not keen on any ursine company at the moment, I grabbed my whistle out of my pocket and blew loudly. This time, the bear left and joined the others, to my relief. When I did a section of the AT earlier this year, before my thru-hike, I had a dream about hearing a bear outside my tent, and being so panicked all I could do was sputter into my whistle, never getting it to work. I'm glad that didn't happen here.

Bracing wildlife encounter concluded, I very quickly finished mounting up and took off down the trail briskly. About half an hour went by, when I hear LOUD rumbling in the brush. A small animal like a squirrel makes alot of noise in the trees, so much so that you half-expect a bear, so you can imagine how much noise a big bulky bear makes, one who isn't half as graceful as a squirrel or even a deer. Since my encounter with this one's colleagues, I had been clapping my hands and saying "yo bear!" as if I was in grizzly country. I was fairly nervous. I heard this FOURTH one and nearly jumped out of my skin with a "YO BEAR!" as I saw his black rump charging away (just like they always tell you you'll see).

By now, I'm convinced that New Jersey is just crawling with bears, I'm expecting them behind every tree and boulder. I make sure to make plenty of noise so they run long before I get to them. I'm really hoping to see some people, and finally, at the end of the night, I do. I've settled into the shelter, .2 off the main trail, but they decide to camp at the trail. That'll have to be good enough, I suppose. Should be just close enough to hear my screams pierce the night air in case of attack.”

“i didnt take any pictures on my nj/ny section, so heres some more pictures from the rest of the hike:

another big k summit shot:

http://www.trailjournals.com/photos.cfm?id=196279&back=1

flowers on springer mt. gforce actually took this one, i believe

http://www.trailjournals.com/photos.cfm?id=196284
last edited: 11/24/06 5:26:18 PM”

“full report on

www.trailjournals.com/crashbang”

“You're going to have to go again. They've re-routed the trail several times since your last venture.”

“theyll probably re-route it a few times before i get done writing this damn thing”

“Crash....you should do it on company time.....that way you get it done and get paid as well ;) :D”

“if i had access to internet at work i would”

“great report thanks for writing it .Sorry about your dad, 57 is way too young to leave.”