Trip Report: Hadraian & Flatfoot's Marit ime Ventur

“Hadrian and Flatfoot’s Maritime Venture 2004

The first 1000 miles, Saturday, October 9, went as planned and then came Maine. Having made reservations to stay in Brunswick 4 months earlier I was not worried about finding a room during colour season. What I did not recon was that the State of Maine, unbenouced to me flipped I-95 and I-295. My new 2004 map did not show this, No billboards notified me of this...only an additional 50 miles and a query of the TOLL taker (as if the Toll had not already been taken) reversed my direction back south along the coast on old I-95 now renumbered I-295. Oh.. they also renumbered all the exits. Dinner (at Gritty McDuff’s, Freeport)/sleep.

Sunday, October 10.
On the road for the final 576 miles to Halifax. Clear sailing thru customs between Calais, Maine and St. Stephens, New Brunswick. Pulled into Halifax only to hear overnight forecast expecting 60-70 mph winds and heavy rain. That news and gas prices set at 92 cents a liter ($3.65 gallon) , set my heart a flutter. My joy knew no bounds. So endith the day.

Monday, October 11 (Thanksgiving Day in the Ol’ Dominion)
No rain overnight. Day breaks...well not so much breaks as it’s not as dark as night. Under heavy cloud cover we speed 2 hours south-west to Kejimkujik National Park.
First trail is Hemlock and Hardwood (3.6 mi.) The most striking feature of this bit of earth is the 450 year old Hemlock trees, dark and cool, the lack of soil makes what earth there is very precious hence a board walk has been built to keep us off the fragile system of roots. The green of the mosses and lichen ground cover is mirrored above by the small needles of hemlocks which obliterate any light reaching the ground. Further on the wood turns into what I can only describe as a theatre set for any fairy tale. The spongy trail winds between trees and rocks dripping with bluish/grey lichen. The light is so even that no shadows are cast by traveler or tree, the view is as wonder-full as it is deep. As the trail curves close to a lake we first smell burning wood and then spot a campsite. We ask the three campers if we can pass through there site for a better look at the lake. They say it’s been quit a few years since they‘d been to Kejimkujik and ask us about the trail. We wondered why ask us...they were already there. We come to find out they canoed into the site which came equipped with fire wood and a latrine about 200 feet distant.

We passed 5 more equally great sites before reaching our next trail Flowing Waters. A short 1K romp along the banks of a deep tea-coloured river, reflecting the gold hues of autumn. The wind picked-up considerably as we approached the next two trails which brought us to the shores of lake Kejimkujik. Snake Lake and Peter’s Point combined form a nearly 4 mile ramble in and out of hardwood forest and near enough to the shore to see whitecaps kicking up on the nearly 12 miles of open water. Peter’s Point is reached by what appears is a natural alle. Except for the rise and fall of the path it’s as straight as an arrow shot to a small sandy beach with a few flat boulders sticking out into lake. The rising storm drove us from the point back to the car.

Driving back to Halifax along the coastal road took us past a small memorial park dedicated to those on Swiss-Air flight 11 which crashed off the coast September 3, 1998.
This small memorial park, just a couple of hundred yard s from Peggy’s Cove, is dedicated to the 229 persons who lost their lives that night. The memorial itself resembles the huge boulders which are the bulwark of Nova Scotia’s south-east coast. The storm was upon us wind and rain lashed our windows at a 90 degree angle, while the radio warned of bridge closures to high sided vehicles. We were glad to be back in Halifax for the night and bet our overnight hiker friends were happy they broke camp early this morning to paddle out.

Tuesday, October 12. No precipitation this morning, forecast for PM...heavy rain. Quick visit to the Halifax Citadel. Fortification began in 1749 many incarnation since good way to spend part of the day..lots to see, loads of history from early years to Halifax Explosion during WWI (largest manmade explosion prior to atomic bomb) through WWII convoy departures to Britain. Despite afternoon rain, we look forward to Wednesday’s break in water torture by planning to visit one of the 10 best trails in Nova Scotia according to a trail magazine. Tuesday night finds us in what I suspect is one of the great pubs in town. The George is everything you’d expect and more. Great beer, the brewer learned his craft in the New Forest area of England. Great menu, savory dishes and great service. Walk ‘home” in nor’easter’.

Wednesday, October 13. With I believe 19 miles of paths, Point Pleasant at the southern most tip of the Halifax peninsula, is a good place to stretch your limbs close to town. Almost 70% of the trees were knocked down in last year’s hurricane Juan. They’re still clearing up so the sound of chain-saws permeate the air. Many of the paths pass War of 1812 battlements and WWII gun emplacements which guard the harbour entrance. Late morning we drive the short 45 miles north along the coast (Eastern Shore) to Musquodoboit harbour . Behind an old railway station we pick-up a 17 mile rail trail. On other side of the raised rail bed are ponds and rock outcrops raising 30 to 50 feet. In 3 miles we come to the Admiral Loop, recommended to be one of the top 10 trails in NS. A sign at the trail head states it’s closed, I say, after 1600 miles it’s open. Sliding along below a rock cliff we enter a narrow, undulating path. Rocky terrain with many uprooted trees making progress difficult. A pair of gloves and goggles appear on a rock surface as we begin the climb. Once atop the outcrop we come across 3 men who are clearing debris. I fear may ask us to turn back...instead one of them says have a great day but just beware as the path may be diverted in some sections since they are still clearing damaged trees from last year’s hurricane. We come across some great trees which have been toppled. Those that we can’t get around we scramble over. The trail it seems traverses many hills in the area lending to differing views of small lakes and forests. As we reached the first outcrop with a view we decided to break and take a photo back towards the railway bridge we crossed earlier. It proved to be my last...photo that is. The remainder of my film lay safely tucked up in another pack in the car. The trail lived up to its billing; tight squeezes through a fallen rock “The Cave”, two slip and falls into thickets, plenty of twists , turns, and short scrambles up and down, and plenty of great if muted views of hills and lakes. Enjoyed this one immensely.

Return to Halifax and decide after watching long-range weather to cut short our trip. We decide to return home, via New Jersey, banking my unused hours for later use.
Thursday, October 14. 1000 miles and 16.5 hours later we arrive at my brother’s house in The Garden State. Only Worcester Mass. managed to hold us up in a two hour back-up due to two seperate accidents on 290. We crossed the Tappan-Zee at 11:00 pm Wednesday evening and in less than 12 hours we were on the Monument trail at High Point Park, New Jersey.

Friday, October 15. At the High Point ranger station many brochures and placards remind the visitor to be ware of bears. With that we headed off to join the Monument trail to the summit. But before you go up you go down. Once we cross the valley and work our way uphill we expect to see somewhere in the distance the huge monolith guiding us toward the summit. Good thing we saw the monument and accompaning views of the Delaware River last year because we couldn’t see 50 feet in any direction this time. Breaking free from the sheltering trees, the mist and clouds limit our view and the damp chill encouraged a quickining pace. As the trail reaches the summit where the 220 foot monument stands only the door at its base is visible, the remainder obscurred in the swirling mist and a 10 foot chain link fence...workers are refurbishing the 74 year old structure. Passing the monument headed south we lose sight of the trail marking and end up on a portion of the Appalachian Trail. Recognizing a lake below us as one we passed last year we scramble down to the lake shore and from there make our way back to the parking lot.

Saturday, October 16....leads naturally to

Sunday, October 17. Before we turn for get back behind the wheel for the 670 mile journey home we head for the closest park , South Mountain Reservation (Essex, NJ.)
Never having been here we pulled into the first parking lot we came across. Since it was quit early Sunday we saw no one about...nor did we find a trail map. Walked until we came to a river and saw a yellow mark upon a tree. Following the trail east we crossed the river ascendedthe slope and continued for approximately 40 minutes and unsure where we were headed we turned back...we still had a 12 hour ride ahead of us. Just before the car park we meet two mountain bikers they told us maps could be downloaded from park system site. As we stood talking 4 bikers crashed out of the woods, spit some gravel our way then continued up the hill.
Next time I’m out in the Garden State I have too cheque into this area a bit further. Two States later we dined ...and drank with a bunch of Browns’ fans at Great Lakes Brewery in Cleveland before our final push to home.

Three days banked...much good beer drank, plenty of trails yet to hike, just sorry I didn’t get to Cape Breton this time. Pictures when developed and uploaded in the near future.
last edited: 11/08/04 12:47:37 PM”

“Interesting TR. Love to see the pics when you get them up.”

“yupp, thought so too, but who are you???
Intro?”

“Impressive first post.
Welcome.”

“hadrian,
Glad to see that you and the Mrs. had a nice trip. Sounds like a place I need to try. That entire area is really a great place to visit. Thanks for the TR. I'll be waiting for your pics.”