Canoe or kayak the Upper Iowa River?

“OK, lets look waaaay into the spring of 2005 for this (you could do it now, but Iowa deer hunting season just started -- Dec. 4)

The Upper Iowa River runs across Iowa's three most northeastern counties on its way to the Mississippi just below New Albin. It actually starts around Leroy, MN.

The upper river is gorgeous, flowing through chimney rocks, palisades etc. I would suggest what most canoe outfitters do: A two-night trip, staying Friday night at a county or commercial campground in or near Kendallville, and staying the second night at a commercial campground in the vicinity of Bluffton (OR on the river)... and going possibly as far as Decorah for the takeout point (or anywhere in between).

Below Decorah the river runs through wider valleys with less rocky bluffs.

The river was nominated for National Scenic River status, however the anti-gov. yoohoos in Allamakee county put an end to that.

It has water all season long, although it decreases later in the summer if there's not much rain.

Here is general river info, scenic shots, canoe livery and campground info...

River map:
http://hosting.acegroup.cc/~d4os/UpperIowaRiver.html

http://www.inhf.org/upperiowariver.htm

http://www.bluffcountry.com/hruska's.htm

http://www.bluffcountry.com/randy.htm

http://www.chimneyrocks.com/

http://www.harvestfarmcampground.com/

I don't have any experience planning a float trip, but it can't be that bad, right? And the starting point would be around 20 miles away... CLOSE!

Also, I need someone to canoe with me, who can actually paddle, cuz I suck at paddling. LOL! *pout* Prosecutor???!??

Give some ideas for dates if interested....”

“Sounds interesting. Too early to think about dates. Sign me up as a "perhaps."”

“Well, no trip page yet. I want to get a better idea for a date before that would happen.

What might be a good date for you? There are a few people interested in this already... and they asked about March, April or May. Will see what they say.

Mark, you'd be coming by Amtrak, right, with canoe/kayak in the dome car? LOL!”

“Iowa River? Why is it that the prospect of canoeing the "Iowa River" just doesn't conjure up my adventuristic juices? Iowa River? I guess if you lose a paddle you can always fasten one from a few cornstalks, tied together with pig tails. MAN I'm glad I live out west and not in the Midwest. Iowa River? I'd rather sneak a paddle on the Pirates of the Carribean ride at Disneyland for a little excitement.

:Þ”

“Naturally my future is a little too murky at this point for a commitment but contrary to Buck's cynicism the area surrounding the Upper Iowa is simply gorgeous. I have spent some hard-earned vacation time in that area and it was well worth it. My stepdaughter and I did a short paddle on the river a couple of years ago, and there are many steep rock formations, sparkling clear water, and heavily wooded areas bordering the river. Heck, right in Decorah there is a stocked trout stream running through a city park, one of the prettiest places I have ever seen.

Whether I actually go or not this trip gets the Omahiker stamp of approval.”

“Sounds like a good trip Lizs. Wish I were going to be around. Looks like you have Buck's troll visiting. The real Buck would be bouncing around and drooling like a puppy over this trip.”

“Yeah, Omahiker, it's a SWELL trip. LOL!

With my hard drive crash in the spring, I lost this cool canoeing shot I had from the river. BUT... I remembered I have a shot of that hansum man jerbear above the river. (It's fun climbing around on those tall chimney rocks, as long as no one puts an eye out!!)

http://community.webshots.com/photo/53240491/53240706fkGFAm”

“Spring, like as in May or June.
May 15-16 may be OK since Grinnell Graduation will be during the wekend of May 22-23. The flood peak should be around then. I can paddle, but I would prefer someone with a little more experience, Lizs.

Who is buck, a Disney character?”

“I know nothing of this state. so if someone was to take a train, what is the nearest town and could someone (me) get a ride to an outfitter and all that fun stuff?”

“There are no towns in Iowa, just farms. You'd likely have to fly to either Minnesota or Wisconsin.”

“I'm a 'maybe' for this, if I can get cheap airfare.

So lizsbaby wants to sit in front and be a Canoe Queen? ;-)”

“I haven't looked at maps, yet. Am-de-track stops in LaCrosse, WI and Minneapolis/St. Paul They are often LATE--1-3 hours is common---but it is a relaxing ride from Chicago. If'n I can make this trip, I may be able to shuttle some people from Chicago. Still a long way off.”

“thelorax (and tagalong, I presume :-P) would be in....

I would think mataharihiker and prosecutor would be in... maybe rangersven, johnhens and thegriz (check the "other side" LOL)

STIKKIE?!?!?!? getchur butt to the UPPER midwest!!! lol And it would be superb if Omahiker could come. I mean, I've done day trips on the river, but I think she's camped on it. I think she used some blow-up kayak or something. LOL!! (was it shaped like a man, hmmmm???! LMAO!)

You don't want really want holiday weekends, cuz the river is very busy then... or the July 29-31 weekend.

All depends on dates.... could be June, doesn't have to be spring!

Airtran into Minnesapolis is cheapest from the southeast, when booked ahead. Minneapolis is about 2.5 hours from me... and I am about 20 miles from the Upper Iowa. I don't know about other low-priced airlines from elsewhere....

Another canoe trip idea, for another day, is the Root River. It has canoe campsites on it. And it's even closer to moi!!! LOL!”

“lizs, you wouldn't come to Missouri to paddle but you expect us to come to Iowa. heck if I am going to drive that far it won't be to Iowa ;)”

“Sure, come to Iowa. I only have to drive 20 miles!!! Mooooohahahaha!

OK, maybe more than 20 miles if I have to pick some people up or shuttle. Still... not 15 hours one way! >8-O

If people wanted to take a few days, they could also do the Root River or maybe a "backwater trail" in the sloughs on the Mississippi River. I think there's one near La Crosse and another at Wyalusing State Park, south of Prairie du Chien, WI. There are caves, cool hiking trails, great overlooks....”

“I forgot! pekka and reino also would be naturals... and sunshine and ????

LOL!”

“and at what point will my name appear?”

“Mapes, Mapes, Mapes......
Like you would come to Iowa. ;-)
If you make this trip, I will.”

“oh goody, the "Up Yours, I'm Going to the Upper Iowa Paddle" challenge!

Alrighty, mapes and stovestomper!!

:-)”

“see now I feel better
LOL

LOL good name for a trip

Up Yours”

“Lizs, you should be paddled! Where is your loyality? You live in Minnesota now!

Minnesota is loaded with good rivers for such a trip. I used to have a book on the 10 or 12 best rivers for a canoe trip, with detailed maps. A library up there should have one.

I suggest:
Rum River - a state designated wild and scenic riverway.

Mississippi River especially anywhere along St. Cloud to Anoka.

St. Croix River
last edited: 12/03/04 5:14:32 PM”

“Now, nowslimmer, I think a paddle is a bit harsh. A good OTK spanking is all lizs really needs. ;-)”

“Well, yes. She should be manhandled.”

“Sheesh! OK, soooooooooooo

WHO is *MAN* ENOUGH??!?”

“Oops, I knew that was not punishment for Lizs. She wants to make an appointment.”

“dang nowslimmer your up late or getting up early”

“Woke up early. What's your story?
.
last edited: 12/04/04 4:03:02 AM”

“I'm interested..I can always do the St Croix and, with the exception of the area around where I live, it's a big river where you will be fighting a south wind coming up river as you try to paddle down....I've found this condition more times than not and I LIVE on the St Croix! Meanwhile, I love to travel and my Folbot would enjoy the Iowa river, I'm sure....anyway, I haven't heard your mellifluous voice recently, Lizsbaby;)”

“I'm being mellifluous right now for you, mhh... (and, is that a good thing??? LOL)”

“mataharihiker, I paddled on the St Croix once with some friends from Minnesota and it was grueling. I was in one of my pathetic inflatables (sadly, not "man-shaped", contrary to lizs'recollection). We went about eight miles and there was almost no current at all. So I had to paddle the whole time and was exhausted when we finally got out. It was pretty but I wouldn't want to repeat the experience. When you are going downstream it's best to have some semblance of a current so that you have plenty of time to drink beer and enjoy the scenery, and don't have to paddle constantly.”

“...and need I mention, there was plenty of current on the Upper Iowa, the only paddling I had to do was steering to avoid rocks, submerged logs, and such. There was ample opportunity for beer-drinking and scenery-observing on the Upper Iowa; I cherish the memories. Although I did not actually camp on the river we did see a number of campsites on our way down. As I recall, Hruska's has a direct phone line installed at Johnson's (?) campground, all you have to do is lift the receiver and they will come and pick you up in their van. A very pleasant experience all things considered.”

“I always just enjoy saying Hruska's: "heh(said very short and barely there) ROOSH kuh's)

Hruska's bought Johnson's, as I recall. That explains the phone. Yeah, when you drive any of those canoe shuttle gravel roads in the summer, it's very dusty. I think the county puts oil on them, but still...

omahiker, when did you do the Upper Iowa, month? The later into the summer, the less water and more bottoming out in shallow areas. However, unlike that one stikmon experience -- LOL -- there IS water and no canoe dragging for miles and miles!! hahahaha

As I think about it, the spring is probably a bit too high and fast for my tastes. I like a river I can easily step into if need be... hahahaha ... if I can avoid unseen holes!”

“I believe we went down the river in September. It was a very easy paddle, we started from Hruska's in Kendallville I think, and the most challenging spot was right where we put in, where there was a deep pool with eddies and many submerged logs (unless I am confusing the Upper Iowa with the Cannon River in MN). The rest was a piece of cake, very appropriate for relative novices like us (my stepdaughter was eleven at the time). There was enough "whitewater" to make it pseudo-exciting, but nothing life threatening, and of course we wore our PFD's. I do seem to recall some bottom-scraping episodes, but the current was strong enough that we never had to get out of our boats and drag them, it was enough to push off the bottom with our paddles and then we would get moving again. I suppose during the spring melt it might get a little more hairy, the current would probably be much faster then.”

“I really want to go on this trip”

“for what its worth (and in my book, its worth alot). This sounds like a "possibility". Lizs, I would stop asking for date input from everyone. Everyone has different adgendas. Just put it up when it works for YOU, since its your trip. Then those that want to make it will make it and those that don't, well...they won't.

I can say I'm interested, but until I see a hard in stone date, then I'm speculating on my schedule, but, I'm interested...

Couple of questions for those that know...

1. Are there gators or other dog eating creatures in this river?
2. Will there be running room on the banks for dogs that don't like to sit in the canoe?
3. Are there gravel bars to camp out on or is the river lined with private property?
4. Shuttles-how much and who are they?
5. Outfitters, who are they and what's the phone #?
6. Is this a day tripper river? This question is VERY important because, Dave and I are used to rescueing drunken Billy Bobs and their stupid girlfriends Jilly Jane. I don't want to travel 1000 miles to perform hero duties, but will if the need arises.

Ewker, if your gonna go on this trip...your invited to come via my way, where we could put your yak on the Trac and drive in my rig, saving $$$$. No point having 2 vehicles driving the same journey when 1 will suffice.

oh yeah...portages??? are there any? I don't like portages cause I bring all the necessities, including the kitchen sink.

I'm sure that I'll have more question, but that will do for now.

Lizs...set it up officially and let it go from there...

How many days??? critical question as I'm not gonna drive that distance to do a 3 day trip.”

“nowslimmer, i was just going to bed”

“Great input, Stikmon. Better leave the dog at home. There will be a risk to the dog from sturgeon, paddlefish, alligator gar and large turtles. Camping will be on islands unless flash flooding is predicted. Shuttles and Outfitters will depend upon which river is chosed and which part of the river. Regardless, there will be at least three portages, but the longest will only be ½-mile. It will be a two week trip.

I hope that answers your questions.”

“Oops! I'm sorry, but please ignore all that stuff. It only applies to the private trip being organized.”

“I read your earlier post, NS, and thought "that's a little strange", but decided to stay out of it (not my trip). For peace of mind, if no other reason, I'm glad you clarified (whew!).”

“Hey, I provided a bunch of links in my very first post for canoe liveries, which I think equals outfitter + canoe rental (unless you're looking for Cabela's for all things good). What do you mean by outfitter? Do you mean grocery store, WalMart, outdoor store, what? What are you outfitting? Pretty pink swimsuits? ;-P

I am thinking of a weekend trip, however to make it worth your while, apparently, yes, you can do more than just the overnight. Look at some of the links. They explain the river runs 110 miles to the Mississippi. If you go downriver from Decorah, which would be the ending point, there are two portages around old dams. Nothing tough.

Peruse the links at your leisure. Might whet (wet?? LOL) your appetite. :-)

Also, as mentioned if you're looking for more canoeing, there is the Root River, which has specific DNR canoe campsites... and backwater/slough canoe routes on the Mississippi. I went on a tundra swan field trip a month ago and a gal with the Upper Mississippi Wildlife and Fish Refuge said she loves to canoe among the backwater islands found downriver from each lock and dam (although she was talking the Winona, MN vicinity), saying it's "wild and you almost get lost in there." Something different....”

“Stranger yet were the questions for which I tried to supply some answers. If you read and did not smile, I failed. I wanted to slip in your squirrel eating musky, too. You are familiar with leg pulling. Next to you I am an amateur.
last edited: 12/04/04 4:38:52 PM”

“Well, you got me. I thought you might be but just wasn't sure. I'd never dare pull any leg on a trip Lizs is ramrodding. You're a braver soul than I...please pass the wine & cheese, lol.”

“Jeez, do you think those fish will go for the dog? Wow! How can I comment on portages when the river choice, etc. is still up in the air? (longest will only be ½-mile. Ha, Ha?) He started it asking about gators this far north. He wasn't born yesterday. He's old enough to be married with children![pun]

So, for anyone hanging in there, the final tug on the leg was the mentioning of a private trip. Hey man, who's going? Why wasn't I invited? I'm missing out! Doggoned.

(I know you're headed for the AT and lots of fun. The way my knees are headed, I have to find my fun right here.)
last edited: 12/04/04 5:30:21 PM”

“No stikmon...

and for the record...phukin bite me.

If I'm gonna drive 1000+ miles on someone elses trip, you better freakin believe, I'm gonna ask questions.

As trip leader, one should make the plans, set the dates, create the adjenda.

I'm not gonna commit to anything that is "undecided"...so, until I see something that is conclusive and concrete, I'm not even gonna say maybe.

Nowslimmer...we've had run ins before, but, this time your the antigonist. This is a serious thread about a serious trip. For some us its not around the corner, nor will there be a "side adjenda" to take me up there. So, my questions are valid. I've been on river enough times over the past couple of years to rival anyone on this board, except for DOD. So, shut it up and provide some dialogue that matters.

Lizs, feel free to call me if you'd like...

Until you decide what, where, and when...I'm not gonna go looking through links that won't matter. post it up and let it go from there. If I go, then all gear necessary will be present. I don't like portages, if there are portages, I'd reconsider or travel backpacker style. I learned my lesson on BSF this past summer. I won't do that again...there will be a return to BSF, but, I might make that a private trip, since there is way too much bull#&%!$ that some like to fling around...”

“I'm guilty as charged. I couldn't resist.

I did it because:

1. I felt your questions were premature. I thought that the location for the trip had not been decided, yet.

   "Another canoe trip idea, for another day, is the Root River. ..."
   lizs

   But, I see now, that I missed lizs' words, "for another day." So I was wrong.
   
2. Based upon my error I felt that your "Couple of questions." should have been "Preference."
   
3. I feel that your first question expressed excessive concern. It is common knowledge that in the US the American alligator is found only in the SE states.
   
4. I was ignorant of the fact than BS is not tolerated on TT.
   

I had my fun, but I was disrespectful of your feelings. So I apologize. Peace.

BTW, I probably come close to your experience with a canoe, including with dogs.”

“Serious answers to your questions, to the best of my admittedly limited knowledge.

1. Are there gators or other dog eating creatures in this river?

***Not unless he is small enough to be carried off by an eagle, but there have been more & more credible reports of mountain lions in the Midwest lately. In fact one was shot in an Omaha residential area recently. Also I suppose coyotes would be a possibility. But probably no dangerous aquatic creatures.

2. Will there be running room on the banks for dogs that don\'t like to sit in the canoe?

***Some places there would not be running room due to high rock walls and/or dense woods.

3. Are there gravel bars to camp out on or is the river lined with private property?

***The section I went down there were several campsites, I don\'t think that would be a problem, although you would probably have to pay to stay there.

4. Shuttles-how much and who are they?

***Hruska\'s was great, very knowledgeable and accommodating. I\'d talk to them about shuttle service & outfitting. One of lizs\' links was to them. Don\'t recall the cost, but then again mine was a real short trip.

5. Outfitters, who are they and what\'s the phone #? ***See # 4

6. Is this a day tripper river? This question is VERY important because, Dave and I are used to rescueing drunken Billy Bobs and their stupid girlfriends Jilly Jane. I don\'t want to travel 1000 miles to perform hero duties, but will if the need arises.

***Yes you probably would run into day trippers here. If that\'s an issue for you I wouldn\'t go.”

“Thanks, omahiker... Let me expound (is that a word?) a bit more.

I'm thinking most places there would be running room for dogs. While there might be a tall bluff on one side, usually the other side is not. There may be some woods right by the stream, but often they open up to farmland really soon.

If you look at the photo I took of jerbear, you see the chimney rocks. However, on the other side of the river is a slim row of trees, with a field just behind. Yeah, there will be cows to see, I'm sure. LOL!

Eagles, too. I've seen eagles in the winter and in the summer on the Upper Iowa.

Oh yeah, there are wild critters like bobcats, coyotes... and I've heard credible reports of black bears, although very rarely if ever seen. (The DNR will deny this, as they do all reports of such animals, cuz they don't want yayhoos in there tromping on the algific slopes, trying to glimpse or kill them.)

At one point there is land owned by The Nature Conservancy. It's not officially open to the public, but I walked around in there once. You'll find a hole in the ground on a top hillside slope where cold air comes rushing out. Very cool, in more ways than one. lol!!

Yes, you do find day trippers. However, from what I've read about canoe trips on Missouri rivers on the MoTrails group website, the Upper Iowa doesn't hold a candle to being completely full of drunks, or having people shooting guns off at canoes from riverbanks. (Re: drunks, at least as long as it's not near Luther College's graduation weekend in May, or the "Light Up the Bluff" celebration in Bluffton the last weekend of July. LOL)

I still believe a person can click on a link or two to get prices of shuttles. I went to the work (however minimal, however I'm sure it was at least half an hour to 45 minutes to find all the sources) of finding a bunch of links; use them.

At the time this trip becomes a "go," everyone will be INUNDATED with information. Ask anyone who's gone on a Yellow River trip. I am anal on getting info out. But, it's not to that point yet. So use a link for now.....

And thank you for your support, to quote the ole Bartyles and James boys. LOL!
last edited: 12/05/04 8:40:28 AM”

“We can always arrange shuttles amongst ourselves like Prosecutor had us do when we paddled the Namekagon last spring..that worked well....”

“Right now I am trying to get some info on the U.S.F.S. Passport in Time programs for next summer. I'd like to do that again and I don't want to set up a canoe trip that will conflict. Problem is, that program doesn't seem to like to announce dates until January or later.

Maybe they just don't know till then if they have federal funding or whatever.... I do see the American Hiking Society has out their Volunteer Vacation listings for 2005. Of course, it's a privately funded group and can do its own thing perhaps more easily.

I've got an e-mail out to the PIT I went to last year, asking the archeaologist if she knows her program dates yet for Warbonnet and what they will be doing this year (she had talked of possibly doing interviews and oral histories of homesteading families in the area, which would be cool and right up my alley!)... and if she knows the person who does the Black Hills one, so I can contact that person to see if they have dates yet.

Even late summer might not be bad for the Upper Iowa because it doesn't go dry.”

“for the answers. Khatru can swim too. He only gets in the boat, when he wants to get me wet, then he jumps back in the river, and goes to shore when he's tired of swimming. I'll look over the links a little later and learn about the river(s) that are talked about. I apologize to the group in regards to my rant, but some people are idiots and I take canoeing very seriously, its more deadly than backpacking, and I've seen lots of stupid stuff on the river and just don't want to travel 2000 miles round trip to have a mediocre time.”