BAckpacking in GSMNP

“Last Monday morning I met up with Hikinghairy and three of his buddies (all from Indiana) for a backpack in GSMNP. We met at a pancake house in Gatlinburg and enjoyed HUGE breakfasts before starting our car shuttle and hike. Brandon, Scott, and Mike took cars to the Elkmont trailhead while Hikinghairy (Greg) and I drove on up to Clingman’s Dome. While waiting for the other fellas to show up, Greg and I took in the fine views from Clingman’s Dome. It was clear and beautiful! Clouds were hanging low in the valleys and made for some nice photos. It’s not often the skies are so clear up there.

When the rest of the group showed up, we donned packs and headed up the trail. We went up the Forney Ridge Trail to the AT instead of the paved Clingman’s Dome trail. This section of the trail is short but steep, and was a good warm-up. We headed up to the AT, then on towards Siler’s Bald Shelter. Brandon and Scott quickly took the lead, while Mike, Greg, and I brought up the rear. This was Mike’s first real backpacking trip; he had been on one overnighter before this trip. Greg hung back with him to give him pointers and suggestions to help make hiking easier for him. Poor Mike – his pack was way too heavy and he had enough food to feed a small army. Brandon had given him suggestions on what to bring, but no one actually helped him pack or went through his backpack before the trip. Oh well – we’ve all been there as newbies.

The views along the way were excellent. The skies held clear and blue for us all day, and wildflowers lined the trail. The section of the trail between Clingman’s and Siler’s has its ups and downs all the way. The trail follows a ridge much of the way, which offered fine views. We stopped at the Double Springs Gap Shelter for lunch and privy stops. After lunch, we headed on to Siler’s Bald Shelter, where we would spend our first night. The trail between Double Springs and Siler’s was mostly easy with a few steep climbs. Much of the trail was flanked by beautiful green grass and wildflowers. The last climb to Siler’s Bald was indeed the roughest. The little brown book says it is only .2 mile but it sure seems longer! At the bald (elevation 5,607’), we stopped to soak in the views and rest before heading down the hill to the shelter.

At the shelter, we were the first group there, but others quickly showed up. By nightfall, the shelter was full (12 people). A snorefest was held that night, and I joined right in there with them. One of the other people had built a fire in the fireplace in the shelter, and much to Greg’s dismay, when the wind changed that night, he got a face full of ashes several times. Also, the fella sleeping above him provided a chorus of gastrointestinal noises throughout the night. The group at the shelter was a mix of folks – two fathers with their teenage kids (2 girls, 2 boys), a solo hiker (about 20 years old) who quickly ditched everyone once the teenage girls showed up, and our group of five.

The last time I was at Siler’s Bald Shelter was over 20 years ago. Improvements have been made since then – skylights and a covered eating area in front. Also, the bunks have been replaced with plywood instead of the old wire bunks that used to be in all the shelters. The only really bad thing about this shelter was no privy. The hillside to the south was the latrine area, and it was disgusting and very nasty down there.

The wind picked up in the evening and the night was quite chilly.

Tuesday morning after breakfast we headed out to our next camp 6 miles away (campsite #26 on Miry Ridge). Again, the trail went up and down until we reached the Miry Ridge Junction. We had lunch there, and it was decided that the two faster hikers (Brandon and Scott) would go on ahead and claim our tent spots at the campsite. Again, Greg, Mike, and I brought up the rear. The Miry Ridge camp was nice but the water situation was grim. There was water, but it was a mere trickle coming out of a pipe. Four of us sat down there for a very long time to fill water bottles and hydration bladders. Had to be very careful – one wrong move and the water would stop. Brandon found this out when he moved a rock and BINGO! No water. The rock was put back in place and the trickle started up once again. We were very conservative with our water after spending a lot of time getting it. We heard coyotes not so far off in the distance that evening. They yipped and howled. Was great having a chorus for our evening entertainment.

Wednesday we headed down to the Jake’s Creek camp (#27), only 3.3 miles away (first two days were six miles each). It was a pleasant hike to camp and we had plenty of time for R&R. The water there was plentiful, and Jake’s Creek provided a nice nighttime lullaby for everyone to sleep by. Well, except for me, who had a restless night dreaming of spiders. I guess I yelled at some point in the night because a couple of guys said they had heard something and thought it was wild animals. The Jake’s Creek Camp was lovely to stay at, and all of us settled down around the fire. Thursday morning, Mike was the last to get out of his tent. Greg decided dingos had carried him off in the night, until we heard movement within the tent.

We hiked out on Thursday, via Jake’s Creek to Elkmont where we had left Brandon’s Jeep. The hike out was just a bit over 2 miles, another easy day. It was pleasant and followed Jake’s Creek most of the way.

The trip was great, the weather was perfect, and the group meshed well. Mike took a lot of good-natured ribbing from the rest of us since he was the newbie. Being the only female along, I was afraid I would damper the trip for the fellas, but I don’t think they held back too much (plenty of belching and passing of gas going on). They assured me the only thing they didn’t do was run around camp with underwear on their heads. Darn. I would have liked to seen that!

http://community.webshots.com/album/348830262lTONEP”

“Nice report. Thanks for sharing your trip and the pictures.”

“woodzie, is this your first official trip report on the dark side =)”

“Nice pics. Glad to hear it went well!”

“It must be my old age getting to me, or else you've brain-washed me.”