thebackpacker.com - backpacking, hiking and camping Welcome to thebackpacker.com
create account   login  
     home : trailtalk
    articles  beginners  gear  links  pictures            

Utah Suggestions Wanted

View Messages

Viewing posts 1 to 37 of 37 messages posted.

To add this thread as a favorites, you need to first login.
 

where to go, what to see?
I considering visiting Utah for a week or so and am looking for comments on where to go and what to see relative to outdoors stuff, National Parks, rivers, etc. I'll be with my somewhat out of shape brother so hiking/backpacking suggestions would have to be moderate in difficulty and distance.

I'm thinking Moab, Canyonlands, Arches, etc. but have not defined any specific trails or camping areas.

Any ideas?
last edited: 6/02/05 8:43:33 PM
Owl
8:41:19 PM
6/02/05

Been There..........Loved It!
The Colorado Plateau area (SE Utah) you mentioned is kick arse with so much to see that, frankly, I wouldn't wan't to do much hardcore backpacking (maybe a one-nighter just to sleep under the Utah sky) because you'll do alot of hiking anyways just to see many of the main National Park attractions. Don't waste any time there...SEE IT ALL!!!
http://www.canyonlands.national-park.com/
Buddur
9:21:35 PM
6/02/05

Been There....want to move there!!!
I would just do part of the circle. Hit Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef and Arches. All have easy to moderate trails and really cool stuff to see on short day hikes. You can't go wrong.
Tango
9:53:32 PM
6/02/05

If you don't do one other thing you have to go to SLC, visit Griz and get a tour of the bakery.

Best damn morning I had on my entire week out there.
chili36
10:24:12 PM
6/02/05

Oh, and get mediaman to introduce you to the brewpub.
chili36
10:24:55 PM
6/02/05

What time of year are you planning on visiting? That is the major consideration regarding where you go and what you see.
hobbit
11:38:01 PM
6/02/05

I've been through zion, bryce, and capitol reef...awesome area. Much less crowded, but no less beautiful is the Red Canyon area of the Dixie NF just northwest of Bryce. If you want a really sweet dayhike option, you can hike "The Box" in the Box Death Hollow Wilderness in the Escalante district. There are shuttle services in Escalante b/c the trail is basically a one-way. Beware of stream crossings!

Also check out the Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument. GORGEOUS area. There's another dayhike option that begins at the Calf Creek campground and goes to the Lower Calf Creek falls. Lots of folks take a dip in the icy water on hot days.

The trip to Powell Point (Escalante RD, Dixie NF) (you can drive almost all the way to the point if you have a somewhat durable vehicle) is great, and the vista is incredible.

The National Parks are great, but there are other (much less crowded) areas that would also be worth your time.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=4289716143


Powell Point


Watch out for the big kitties


Stop in the little art shop in Escalante, and if you're nice, the owner might tell you where you can see Fremont petroglyphs and cliff dwellings.
mapsNmammals
11:38:03 PM
6/02/05

hey Owl i think i am going to do the same trip next year at this time. I am thinking Zion, Canyonlands, and Arches. maybe Bryce if time and 2yr old permits.
peakclimber
11:46:22 PM
6/02/05

cool, MnM. I tried to get to Powell Point on one trip, but didn't think the rental car would go over the little -cough, cough- ditch in the road very well.

I found out from a guy who went out there in March that you can hike a slot called Red Canyon near the Animal Friends (I think that's the name) pet shelter north of Kanab. I was jealous. phhhhhhhht!~!

I would probably have great loop and short hike ideas. Been there many times. Hit a ton of places in 2000 in maybe a week or so in Utah. I like out-of-the-way places (like this newfound slot), too, if that's what you like.

offhand, Calf Creek Canyon is great. And you could perhaps do the Escalante River trail? At least wander along it for a ways to see the cool granaries in the cliff walls above.

and MnM, cool tidbit about the shop owner and the rock art!!
lizs
1:03:51 AM
6/03/05

lizs, you just reminded me of a great day hike.

Hole in the Rock Road to slot canyons. Very cool!
http://www.americaswonderlands.com/slot_canyons.htm#Peak-A-Boo,%20Spooky%20and%20Brimstone%20Gulches

And Calf Creek Falls was great. From the Calf Creek Campground it's a 3 mile 1 way hike to a great falls and lagoon (is that the right word?).

Here is my trip to Utah.
http://community.webshots.com/album/41499512PqVGPs
Tango
2:06:23 AM
6/03/05

We just got back from a trip to southern Utah -- it was terrific. We only had 8 days to hike there, followed by 8 days on the Colorado rafting. We don't have the pics posted yet, but we will soon. It was all beautiful.

We flew into Las Vegas, drove to Zion (about 2 hours away), did dayhikes there, camping at the campground, then moved on to Bryce where we did more dayhikes (Fairyland is a beautiful 8 mile hike), then on to Escalante where we did dayhikes in Spooky, Peekaboo and Brimstone, then an overnight trip up Harris Wash (off Hole in the Wall road), then a short dayhike in Kodachrome. We intended to hike in Cedar Breaks but there was too much snow at 10,000'. I wanted to do the Calf Creek hike, the area is gorgeous, but we ran out of time.
Ginny
9:53:11 AM
6/03/05

One can stay at...
Khodacrome Basin State Park. It is central to everything that has been mentioned...calf creek falls ROCKS...I built a nice cairn up on a rock terrace there. Owl...get in touch with Stratusloop, he's done a lot of research there. The Wave is a great day hike, its in escalante. I'll have SL give you a shout.
stikmon
10:28:25 AM
6/03/05

There's a ton of stuff you can do up there. I never made it to Kodachrome, but heard great things about it (guy I worked with out there fell off a cliff and broke his arm...haha).

When I went to Powell Point, I parked my car at the beginning of the "road" to the point, and then rode my bike to the point itself. I probably could have made it in my car, but there were some trees down, and the drivearounds were pretty rough.

Oh, hey, since we're talking about stuff in the Monument, you could try Smoky Mountain Road for a scenic drive. There are exposed coal seams which have been hit by lightning in the past and are burning underground.

If you want to see some massive petrified trees, there's the Petrified Forest State Park in Escalante, and if you're interested in the native people who used to live there, there's a state park in Boulder (bout 20 min east of Escalante) with some pit homes and other artifacts.

As far as food goes, Cowboy Blues in Escalante has some mighty tasty food, and the cook there can make you some seriously smokin' hot wings if you're up for it.

I lived out there for 3 months, and spent a good deal of time on the mountains in the national forest outside of Escalante. There are some good spots you can go for awesome views of Johns Valley. I only wish I had spent more time on the monument in the desert. There's a TON of great stuff out there. If you get a chance to kayak on Lake Powell, I hear there are some great spots to check out now that the water levels are so low.
mapsNmammals
10:50:34 AM
6/03/05

Once again Owl, what time of year are you considering visiting? Utah is much more than red rock and slot canyons. Although I love the southern half of our state, I never venture there during June, July, or August. I always reserve my early spring and late fall trips for southern Utah. If you are coming in the summer, may I suggest the Uintah mountain range for it's great trails, lakes, streams, and wonderful scenery, not to mention fantastic fishing. Or perhaps the Mt. Nebo wilderness area, or the Mt. Naomi wilderness area overlooking Cache Valley.
hobbit
11:54:42 AM
6/03/05

Yo Owl.....i'd love to help ya out but hobbit is the dude for Utah...he'll show you the way man.....just let him know what it is you want to do....it's an endless list....if you want some serious solitude.....Hackberry Canyon in Grand Staircase....ain't nobody goes there dude....just drive down Cottonwood canyon road (4wd recommended)from the north near Kodachrome for many miles (can't recall right now), go a ways past Grosvenor Arch and park on the right and don't block the road, start hiking on the right which I believe is SW and soon you'll be on the rim....then down you go baby......Ed Franz is the backcountry ranger there....give him a call at the Interagency office....he'll hook you up....but again what do I know....hobbit has lots of knowledge on these matters....he's the man!!
stratusloop
12:08:48 PM
6/03/05

time of year
I thinking about visiting UT in August, but could go later if the Fall would be better.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!
Owl
12:28:07 PM
6/03/05

OMG, How could I forget my fave when I was there. The Manti La Sal Mountains. It was gorgeous and quite the change from all the red rock. Alpine meadows and beautiful pine and birch forests. It was great. There is a campground (free) by a creek that comes from a lake that pretty much only the locals know about.
Tango
12:41:20 PM
6/03/05

looks like a good thread to add to my favorites. I just had a bunch of stuff sent to me from the Tourism Dept.
Ewker
12:47:44 PM
6/03/05

I should mention that the place I was speaking about is 30 min from Moab.

See you out there some day Ewker!
last edited: 6/03/05 1:03:52 PM
Tango
12:59:22 PM
6/03/05

Tango, how did the resort/camp grounds deal play out?
Ewker
1:15:29 PM
6/03/05

the la sal mountains are covered in DEEP snow right now but the canyons around there are in great shape.
deaddog
2:07:38 PM
6/03/05

Owl, August is no time to be exploring the southern half of the state. Head for the Uintah range, or wait until October and I'll direct your steps to some terrific places down south. Your choice. See this thread for my most recent trip report and photos
hobbit
7:48:23 PM
6/03/05

Agreed, I wouldn't go to southern Utah in August! I'd go in fall or spring.

I'll throw in a suggestion for Natural Bridges National Monument - you can do a great all day loop hike and visit all three natural bridges plus some awesome Ancestral Puebloan ruins and rock art.
BearCrossing
8:34:38 PM
6/03/05

How are the temps in southern utah in late may/early june. This is the easiest time of year for me to make a trip like that. Would it be in triple digits already
peakclimber
9:13:54 PM
6/03/05

Owl, In August, definitely head for the Uintas. Red Castle Lake is a easy 5 mi. hike from the Wyoming side. The next drainage to the east is Henry's Fork and a nice 2 day climb to Kings Peak. I've lived here all of my life and haven't seen it all....cause I keep going to the Winds :)

peakclimber, Normaly the south starts getting pretty warm and dry in June but this year has been REAL wet and cool too. Mud slides and flooding is the norm right now. I don't know if I would go too far of the paved roads, you may never get back. The slots...forget about it.


Chili old man.....your way too kind :)
Griz
11:46:47 PM
6/03/05

You can go to southern Utah in the middle of the summer...but you'll have to deal with the weather. Anything less than about 5500ft will be way hot. If you want to spend time at higher elevations, you want to be off the mountains by about 2pm unless you want to deal with the storms, which can bring snow and hail and some nasty lighting (I was nearly struck near Panguitch Lake one afternoon...it hit close enough that the shock wave knocked me back). And just plain stay out of slot canyons that time of year. Rain on the mtn will bring flash flooding in the canyons.
mapsNmammals
1:32:19 PM
6/04/05

Ewker, I will (hopefully) be heading out there to find my fortune in 5-7 years. I am going to take business classes first. I am divesting myself of my rental properties right now. You better come out and visit!
Tango
5:10:50 PM
6/04/05

OWL
GO TO CANYONLANDS!!! BELIEVE ME
swritwalker
7:56:04 PM
6/04/05

check Butler wash, Arch canyon,Mule canyon, Grand Gulch,natural bridges N/M, Lake Powell, all on road 95 out of Blanding Ut.(info. BLM office Monticello UT, 801 587 2141. Spring is good wild flowers but wind June to end of July bugs (nats)and HOT. Fall is great, Sep on love it. I am 1.5 Hr east of Moab in Co.
jeremiah
9:16:11 PM
6/04/05

Southern Utah
August, hike early is my only suggestion (though nights can be cool), you may want to shoot for late Sept. early Oct.(, though some places start to close for the season in Oct. The narrows of Zion, is a good overnight, or long day hike, relatively easy (rocky), keep an eye on the water, it can rise fast (in case of storms upstream). Try the view from Dead Horse State Park,(next to Canyonlands) theres a car park that overlooks the Colorado/Green(I Think)Rivers. Bryce has good day hikes, really they all do, Arches has many of the arches in easy distance, or close to the road. A nice overnighter is a car camp, on the north rim of the grand canyon(though it is south, you won't have to go round the canyon),it's about 5-6 miles (<>) west from the main lodge on a dirt road, that is a short walk to the rim, the most incredible sunsets, perched on the edge. Enjoy, your in for a treat no matter what you do.
wwwandrr
9:25:38 PM
6/04/05

Tango, hopefully I will be out there before then. If not I most certainly will make it when you are out there
Ewker
4:48:21 PM
6/05/05

"The Wave", or Coyote Buttes north is definitely worth seeing. But get your trip permit early if you do. They only permit 10 people per day into this area. I wouldn't want to hike it this time of year, but early spring late fall would be perfect. Don't go looking for it in Escalante though, as mentioned above. It's southeast of Kanab, on the Arizona Utah border.

When you get it narrowed down to a time, drop me an email and I'll make some suggestions based upon that. Will you be flying in or driving? Do you want "backpacking" suggestions, or dayhikes with car-camping?

hobbit
6:41:12 AM
6/06/05

https://secure.utah.com/freemap/

you can go to above link and get a free Utah National Park Map. You do have to take a survey to get it free or you can buy it for 6.50...your choice.

It has the following on it:

8 National Parks

Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Arches,
Canyonlands, Mesa-Verde, Great Basin
14 National Monuments
Recommended things to do and see
Driving Distances and Routes
Large 24" X 36", fold-out, easy-to-read map
Ewker
8:17:50 AM
10/14/05

Thanks Ewker.
Owl
8:54:00 PM
10/14/05

Wow! I just got finished reading Bearcrossings TR on her Zion area hikes and now you come up with this map page. Thanks from me too Ewker.
jvz
8:41:57 AM
10/16/05

Thanks Ewk! Of course I had to get the map!
The Killing Dance
5:34:44 PM
10/16/05

makes you want to go there this winter
Zion's Winter Wonderland
Zion National Park, always beautiful, is at its photogenic best during stormy winter weather. I love walking the trail along the river, watching as stray clouds trapped in the twisting canyons creep up the cliffs as they struggle for freedom in the open sky, and as isolated rays of sunshine break through the dark sky and illuminate the park's regal monuments.

It snows occasionally in Zion Canyon. For a few hours on a few days every winter, flakes flutter from the sky and accumulate at the base of the canyon walls. The result is a magnificent scene - white lace against red- and caramel-colored rock, green pine and juniper trees in the background.

This is a great time of year to hike in Zion. The Chinle Trail, in the park's southwest corner, cuts through the low-elevation Coalpits/Huber Wash area where winter weather is usually dry and mild. Daytime temperatures often climb into the high 50s. Nights get chilly, often falling below freezing. During late December and January you may find a little ice and some snow in shady spots.

Glistening icicles often hang from cliffs where there are seeps or waterfalls. During mid-winter you can find icicles around the Emerald Pools, Weeping Rock and along the Gateway to the Narrows trail. The ice is unstable - spears occasionally fall from the cliffs - so trails may be closed in dangerous spots.

Ice is a hazard on trails that climb the cliffs above Zion Canyon. Angels Landing and the rim trails are not recommended for winter hiking.

Zion National Park includes a vast area of backcountry located at higher elevations where snow piles deep. It provides great opportunity for snowshoeing and cross country skiing.

Winter is a wonderful time to observe wildlife in Zion Canyon and other lower-elevation areas. Mule deer can be seen from the roadways. Foxes, bobcats and coyotes are abundant in this area but only seen occasionally by lucky visitors. Hawks and eagles are often seen soaring overhead or perched in trees.

The park shuttle does not operate during winter and so visitors are free to drive private vehicles into Zion Canyon.

Zion is an ancient Hebrew word meaning a place of refuge or sanctuary. This national park is a wonderful place to escape the cold and smog and congestion found in so many cities.

After hiking, the hot tubs and spas found at nearby resorts provide enjoyable solace. And, to add variety to a winter getaway, nearby St. George and Hurricane offer golf courses with greens that are well-manicured and inviting year-round.

Meanwhile, snow is now starting to accumulate at nearby Bryce Canyon National Park and Cedar Breaks National Monument. Both areas offer excellent opportunities for snowshoeing and cross country skiing. There are also excellent snowmobile trails on the mountains adjacent to NPS lands.

Most winter days are sunny and mild at Arches, Canyonlands and Capitol Reef national parks and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Storms occasionally cross these areas and sometimes drop snow but accumulations are usually slight and melt fast. On sunny days conditions are very pleasant for hiking, biking and jeeping.

Grand Canyon National Park is uncrowded and inviting at this time of year. Snow may accumulate on the South Rim and there may be some ice on trails leading into the canyon, but hiking conditions are pleasant on many winter days. The North Rim is closed during the winter because it receives heavy snowfall. However, Toroweap and some other backcountry access points may be accessible. Many photographers prefer to visit the park during winter because skies are usually clean, with little haze, so photos turn out better.
Ewker
3:08:11 PM
12/09/05

<< back to Trail Talk main page

 

Post a Message

In order to post a response to this thread you must first be logged in. If you do not already have an account, you must first create a new account.

 

Login Form

Username:
Password:

 

 

Post a New Thread
Search Threads
Browse Archive

Create a New Account

Trail Talk Main Page