Glacier Mountaineering Report

“I got back Saturday night from the Mountain Madness Glacier Mountaineering course. I have to say that I had an awesome time. Mountain Madness rocks! Our guide, Ted Callahan, was the shiznit! He was patient, great at explaining everything, encouraged questions, and an excellent chef. We, the students, ate very well out there.

Day 1: We hiked up to the Boston Basin in the Northern Cascades Natl Park. The approach kicked my ass. It was steep, rocky, overgrown, had quick running streams, huge avalanche deadfall, and it was raining. But I made it. We set up basecamp on the rocks just above the treeline.

Day 2: Snow school, we learned how to walk on steep snow, the different steps (Ted forgive me for forgetting the French names), how to self arrest in any position, and how to glissade. We learned how to rig for glacier travel and how to walk as a rope team. We then took a tour of the Quien Sabe glacier... spectacular.

Day 3: Anchors, we learned how to place anchors and snow protection, how to equalize the anchors, and the many many many different types of anchor systems. We also learned how to perform pitches up a mountain side. It snowed 3 days straight, but was warm enough that I saw a number of avalanches.

Day 4: Crevasse rescue, we learned how to pull our buddies out of a crevasse, how to arrest their fall, set up anchors, and set up a Z-rope system and add a C system for more power.

Day 5: Summit Day. We left camp at 3:23 am for Sahale Peak. We summited under perfect weather. Summiting was better than I could have imagined. Ted kicked the steps the whole way. Then we went back, packed up camp, and decended to the van. Ted set a fast pace, but I kept up most of the way. We then drove to Deception pass in the San Juan islands and car camped.

Day 6: We learned how to prussik out of a crevasse by doing it up a rope from a tree, and we learned a little about repelling. Then Ted drove us back to Seattle, and we were done.

I have tons of pics and I'll post them on my yahoo page and link you tomorrow. I can't wait to get back to the mountains.

If anyone here needs another rope team member LMK.
last edited: 6/14/05 9:23:27 PM”

“You can't beat Sahale for the view.”

“awesome chills!

I went to a climbing class for the first time tonight (in a gym)and LOVED it.

Looking forward to the next class session and then moving onto some rock very soon.”

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View looking south from Sahale Peak”

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Forbidden Peak seen from Sahale”

“GREAT

I've been looking for your trip report. Hope you will have some pictures if the Chicago TT group ever gets together again.

Plus, I seem to remember you were going to Isle Royale? I don't remember seeing that report.”

“

The arrow points at Sahale Peak in this vista taken from the summit of Eldorado Peak. The Quien Sabe Glacier is the white mass below it. Boston Basin below the glacier to right.
last edited: 6/15/05 12:34:16 AM”

“Man, you are making me cry..I have not been that far North since 2002, since I moved down near Seattle. Anything near Cascade Pass is soooo worthy.”

“Great job (you too Roam) sounds like ya got the bug.

Mountaineering, for me, has always been the ultimate sport. It involves so many different disciplines and total commitment.

Looking forward to seeing more of your photos.”

“Chills, Sounds like a fun class, and the views are awesome! (thanks, USA for the pics)”

“wow, USA dramatic pics!”

“Beautiful pics. I have to admit I'm a little jealous.

Mountaineering (please don't laugh at me using the term) is strictly a winter sport here, but I dream of getting some real altitude.”

“Chills, sounds like a great class.

USA, super photos.”

“Awesome pics, USA. Yep, that's exactly what I saw. I'm still working on resizing the pics so I can post them up. I've got some great ones of us moving up the glacier, and another rope team going up in our footsteps after we came down.

I can't wait to get back to the mountains. I'm hoping to put another trip together with a couple of the guys that were in my class.

Mark, I've got the Isle Royale pics, too, and I need to post them. Two trips back to back... I lost 10 lbs on them. :D”

“Sounds like an epic trip, chills.

Your pic from summit of Eldorado reminded me of my climb up many years ago...

Climb leader to assistant climb leader while team on final approach (knife edge) to summit:

"Is there room for two rope teams side by side?"

Assistant climb leader to climb leader:

"Uhhhh...geez...I don't know if there is even room for my boots!"”

“

Knife edge of the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak”

“Fantastic pictures! :-)
Wow!!!
You're really lucky to have had such an awesome experience!”