Mt. Lyell TR & pics

“After hanging with the "Wheezers & Geezers" in Lone Pine, I decided to try and climb Mt. Lyell.

Mt. Lyell at 13,114 ft is the highest peak in Yosemite and with all the snow this year in the backcountry what better time to start an interest in peak bagging. I hit the Lyell Canyon trailhead/John Muir Trail at 8:30am. Perfect weather for hiking and nobody on the trail or I figured nobody would be on a Monday morning. I admired the creek cursing through the valley with it's crystal clear waters.



I started to finally meet some folks returning back to the trailhead. Some were finishing up the JMT, some just out for a few days, and some coming back after climbing Lyell. We talked for a bit and I learned that only one of the group of four made the climb. The lone climber made it in 12 hours from their base camp. The other three turned back. Additionally, they had hired someone from the Yosemite Mountain School to guide them up. Yikes! 12 hours. What was I getting myself into. Admittedly, I didn't do much research on the mountain. I figured it would be a quick run up like Vogelsang Peak, not more than an hour. I knew there was more snow than normal and the second largest glacier in the Sierra to cross but, hey, it's just water.

I stopped many places along the trail to check out the river. Some were old stomping grounds and some new. The waters were freezing cold and delicious. Then the two chica bonita rangers showed up for some small talk. I knew they wanted to see my permit but they wouldn't ask. Has anyone else noticed this? It seems they never ask just kind of squirm with thought of asking. Finally, I offer to show them and it's always, "If it's no problem". I mean, come on, just ask!



Mt. Lyell eluded me until I came around a bend in the trail.



I huffed it up past the McClure Creek footbridge up to the first lake/tarn where the JMT crosses. Here I noticed a number of tents but nobody around. The mozzies were horrific just as the rangers said they'd be at 10,000 feet. I continued up and came across the folks staying at the lower tarn. They were part of the group ascending Lyell today with another hired guide. These three
didn't make the climb but they informed me the guide left at 5:30 am to take another up. It was now 4:00 pm or so and they just coming down the glacier. Damn! This was starting to freak me out a little. Why is this puny little mountain taking so gol darn long to climb?!? I made camp beside a small tarn in a skeggy, soft, and mucky area. Mosquito breeding grounds! By 5:00 pm the sun set behind the peaks immediately to the east and the mosquitoes began their feast. I grabbed my cook set and ran for the sun drenched high ground to the west to cook. A helicopted flew by overhead, circled over Donahue Pass, and came back right over me. I could see the pilot look down on me, motion something, and then off he went. At this time the returning climbers walk right by me. I spoke with the guide and he reported it took 12.5 hours to make the hike. He looked fine but the paying climber looked beat and they hastily headed back to their base camp below.



Unfortunately, I forgot my watch and being by myself I found my company quite boring. I crashed out at, I'd guess, 7:00 pm. with thoughts of blowing off the climb.

I woke with the sun sitting high. Must of been 9:00 - 10:00am when I headed off. I had decided to give it whirl. If I had to turn back I would. The mountain loomed ahead of me.



I came to the snow line quite quickly. This was going way faster than I thought. The snow was nice and crusty but the running shoes weren't working on this stuff so out came the crampons. This would be my first time trying on these crampons. How's that for preparation? Immediately, my left crampon kept coming off, then my right crampon would slip off the toe box area. This was getting sucky. Finally, I learned how the walk without screwing up everything. I was getting the hang of this snow stuff now! Every once in awhile I'd stop to look back.



Finally, it was starting to get steep. I assumed I was on the glacier now but it was snow covered. I chose a route which would get me to the class 3 rock scramble the quickest. Off I went, diagonally across the glacier heading for the saddle area between Lyell and McClure. Once there I realized I had come to a poor place to begin my climb. There was no way I was going to be able to scramble off the glacier here. The ice axe came in handy as I made my way higher up the glacier to more a suitable location. Finger tips jammed into rock crevices and my left hand/axe planted into the ice. It seemed almost vertical. One slip and I was on a hell of a ride down. I made it onto the rock and began my scramble up. It took about 20 minutes to get to the top now and what a view I came onto.



I signed the register



and took obligatory self portrait.



As I sat up there eating some snacks I kept hearing muffled voices. I'd look down the way I came up but no one was there. I starting thinking how the hell was I going to get down. Surely, not the same rock climb that I came up. I packed my stuff and headed east off the peak. Then I heard a whining noise. I peaked over the arete and a springer spaniel was wagging it's little stubby tail at me. Turns out this dog was leading six other climbers from the southern nat'l forest side. They even named the dog Lyell as it has been up here a few times. Well, these folks said I should just head straight down and catch the ice chute. So I did, not knowing any better. It was kinda nerve wracking especially when I came to the ice chute. It was near vertical and I had to leap over over crevasse where the ice was pulling away from the wall. Oh crap! There's was no way to do this gracefully. I had to go for it. All or nothing. Do or Die time! I slid off my pack and put on my nylon pants. Gingerly, I tossed my packed onto the ice and Zoom!!! It was cart wheeling all the way down after hitting the first suncup. This wasn't good at all! Oh well, I had the axe but that didn't give much comfort. That first step was a hard one. I'd lean over the crevasse and then come back. Must of done that a dozen times. Finally, I took the plunge and immediately I was flying down the mountain on my ass. Terrified for the first 10 seconds, then having the time of my life. I must of glissaded for what seemed a couple of minutes and stopped here.



I thought I heard the others up top yelling, hooting, and laughing at me. I think I like this snow stuff.

Back down to base camp I went. It was then I realized I didn't put on any sunblock and could feel the burn already. I made camp and figured I did the mountain in 4.0 - 4.5 hours as the sun was still high. I cooked up some kung pao chicken and then packed up and headed down into Lyell Canyon to get away from the mosquitos. Came across quite a few JMT hikers and talked abit with all of them.

Found an awesome spot to camp across the river. First time I ever been over there. Didn't see anybody and no bears during the night. That's a first for me in Lyell Canyon. Once again, I was in my bag at 7:00 pm.

Awoke late again. Casually hiked out,stopping to talk and take a few pics. Back at the trailhead at 1:00 and a shower at 1:01. Burger and beer and then down to the scorching central valley. Turned out to be great hike but I stil wonder how it took the others 12+ hours to climb. Hope to do some more in the near future.





”

“Great TR and pics Rockman! Still grinning at the vision of you screaming down the mountain on your butt!”

“Great trip report and fantastic pictures!

Sounds like you had a great time. Now you know the attraction of steep ice and snow. Please do me a favor though...practice self arrest and get some more crampon practice, perhaps take a class...I wouldn't want you to do something silly like glissading with your crampons on, I'd like to see you at another Winterfest ;-)

Once again, good job.
last edited: 7/29/05 1:40:44 AM”

“Whew! Maybe the others walked down? Maybe they deliberated longer? Hang on to the ice axe for awhile. Sounds like might need it again before we do.”

“Great trip! Peak bagging is fun, isn't it? And the views are awesome!”

“Great trip report and pictures. The snow is just so beautiful and that peak bagging is really addictive. I'd like to do Lyell eventually.

I took a snow skills class this past year. I learned that it's not always easy to self-arrest - especially when you fall head first on your back. Practicing self-arrest is important - I need lots more practice. It's also important to know that self-arrest doesn't always work. I've seen the results of a failed attempt when someone was glissading - not so nice, but it hasn't stopped me from heading out there anyway but it has made me really cautious about glissading as fun as it is.”

“nice report & pics Rockman. Maybe you should have asked why it took the others 12 hrs to do it. Maybe they took the hard way down and walked.

I did get to see one guy sliding down from Trail Crest to Trail Camp last Friday. That looked like fun but whoa unto you if there was a hidden rock...yikes”

“I enjoyed your report Rockman. I've trecked through Lyell Canyon a few times but never peaked Mt.Lyell. Maybe someday?”

“Rocky - nice TR, the photography is outstanding. It seems like only yesterday, you were putting glowsticks on your shoes and running around like a chicken with your head cut off.”

“Ladyhiker- I thought you were going to be on the Wheezer n Geezers hike. I missed you at the after party. It would of been great to see you.

Steve, yeah, more practice is needed but I knew enough not wear the crampons glissading. :)

wannabp- just let me know when you want the axe back. Also, I checked out Donahue Pass for you. It will be a piece of cake. Some snow but nothing to worry about. Tons of JMT hikers right now.

Snowy- thanks and cool condo! :)

Wing- The register notebook was placed Secor so that got me thinking about his accident.

Ewk- even walking down shouldn't of taken 12 hours. They must sat up there along time.

Songbyrd- Any word on the kayak? :)

BB- What up man!?! Haven't seen you post in like a bajillion years.”

“cool report & pics. yeah...12 hours for the short people and 5 hours for the giant people. makes sense to me... oh...and don't forget the downhill roll in the snow... that takes off another 2 hours...

what took you so long???? *grins*”

“Rockman - I missed seeing you too! Trust me.. I'll make up for missing it next year! Hikerchic is talking about putting together a hike in the Desolation Wilderness this fall. I'll not miss another! :-) I've been thinking again about getting that Harley... Wanna ride? If you have any vacation time left, I'm putting together a Timberline Trail trip around Mt. Hood over Labor Day...”

“Nice pictures and TR there Rockman!”

“GRANDTASTIC ADVENTURE! Ah lawk it alwat.”

“Great report! An enjoyable read. It certainly is beautiful out there.”

“Very cool pics and TR, Billy.”

“Rockman, thanks for looking at Donohue Pass. It's almost time.

Ladyhiker, keep in close touch on the Desolation Hike. There's going to be one weekend this fall that we can't make. And we won't want to miss seeing you.”

“Great Pix and TR Rockman!
Congrats :)”

“Ladyhiker: I love the Mt. Hood area. Brings back memories of the kids snowboarding in July. The Timberline lodge is incredible. Hope to see you this fall.
Rockman: Great pics. No doubt you made going up{and down} look easy. Maybe you should be one of those guides. Hell, you could take up two groups in a day. Both you and Hodge should apply for survivor.”

“Ladyhiker - I don't think I'll be able to make the Timberline hike. I hope to be riding my bike from Seattle to SF sometime in Sept.

Jerry - let Hodge apply for Survivor. I don't have the people skills. I'm not a people person. Matter of fact, I HATE PEOPLE!... and some plants, and cows that stare at me!”

“WOW, your scary. How about Fred on the Flintstones?”

“speaking of scary, anyway I can get a link or something of that mug shot you took of me. Have a 94 year old friend who would like a copy. I can take it to a shop for dupicating i know but if it downloaded and printed on Karens Epson it would be soo much easier. Thanks Jerry. Owe You a beer. {and a game of pool}”

“Landscraper,
You have email at your comcast account.”

“Wow! I missed this thread completely back in July.

man, rocky, what a trip! Sounded scary and exciting at the same time. You be careful next time Mr.! Geez, we could have lost you.

great report and pix! Sorry it took so long to see this!”