Lumberzac Hikes the Presidential Range, TR

“Bless me father for I have sinned. I hiked mountains that aren’t the part of the Adirondacks.

Friday night I made the 4.5hr drive to the Whites and slept in the back of the Subaru. By 5:30 the following morning, I couldn’t sleep any long, packed up, and drove toward the Appalachia trailhead. As I drove east along Route 2 got a tremendous view to the north across a valley as I topped a hill. The entire valley was blanketed with fog and I really wish I had pulled over to take some pictures (I had plenty of time to do so), but my brain wasn’t functioning properly due to lack of coffee in my system. I ended up driving past the trailhead and ended up in Gorham, where I finally got my morning cup of coffee. I turned around and drive back to Appalachia where I ate breakfast while I waited for Artex to arrive. While I ate, I recognized a vehicle drive in as Little Sister arrived at the parking area. I talked with her for a bit and was introduced to Bob and Geri. Soon Artex drive in and after a brief discussion with the other VFTT group we were off.

We made a quick stop at the Highland Center where I picked up a tyvek trail map (later on I would find out that this map was worthless as it didn’t have any contours on it; good thing I packed a paper map). After the brief stop we parked at the Webster-Jackson trailhead.

The trail up Jackson didn’t seem that bad, but it did take me a bit to get my rhythm (it normally takes me a mile or so to get my breathing and stride right). Soon the forest opened up some and I caught my first glimpses of Jackson. It was time to go up the final pitch to the top. The view was incredible. There was barely a cloud in the sky and very little haze allowing us to see for miles. We only stayed on the summit for a short time as the summit started taking on more people.

We quickly descended Jackson and made a quick stop at the Mizpah hut before climbing to the summit of Pierce. Mount Pierce also offered us fantastic views. We sat below the summit for a while and absorbed the scenery. Once satisfied, we made our way down and began the climb up Ike. As we started the final steep section on Ike, I started to get some minor cramping in my quads. When I made it to the top I made sure to eat some of my salty foods and Artex offered me some Gatorade. This seemed to do the trick almost instantly.

All too soon it was time to go our separate ways, Artex had to return to Maine that night and headed back to his car while I continued on toward Mount Washington. The trail was above treeline from here on and I was constantly surrounded by panorama views. This made the going slow as I found myself stopping often to take pictures. Eventually I ended up passing one couple and we continued to leap frog with one another while we took short breaks. At one stop I sat and waited for a good 5 to 10 minutes after they passed me to allow them to get well ahead of me. At the base of little Monroe I ran into them again for the last time as I scrambled up to the top and didn’t stop until reaching the true summit of Monroe. From the summit I caught my first glimpse of Lake of the Clouds. I only stayed on the summit for a moment as the view of Washington, Clay, and Jefferson seemed to call me off the mountain.

The descent down to Lake of the Clouds hut went pretty fast. Its position worked out great as I ran out of water in my platypus about 10’ from the door. I went in and it was a mob scene. There were crowds of people everywhere, which made me feel uncomfortable. I filled my water bladder and went back outside where I ate a snack before heading up the trail towards Mount Washington, my final summit for the day.

Almost as soon as I started heading up the trail the cramping in my quads resumed. I was in agony almost the entire way up. I was ok were the trail would briefly level off, but as soon I would start climbing again the pain and tightness in my legs would come back. The only thing I can think of is that it was an electrolyte problem, although it seems strange that it would happen than and not on other trips where I was hiking in hotter weather, covering more mileage, and more elevation. Eventually I made it to the top of big George. The sun was still shining and the winds on top were a blustery 0 – 5 mph. The summit wasn’t as crowded at I expected, though it may have been do to the fact that it was now 4:30 and many people had already left, but I still had to wait in line to get to the actual summit.

I hung around the summit for close to an hour moving from spot to spot occasionally talking with some of the other people up there; I think I may have talked at least one kid into trying to hike up the mountain some time. Eventually I decided to leave descending the way I came up. I then took the Tuckerman Crossover trail and then the Tuckerman Ravine trail down to Hermit Lake, where I found a nice secluded spot well off trail to set up my tarp for the night. I was glad I decided to bring my bear canister, because it gave me a nice level spot to set my stove on to cook dinner. I sat around, ate my dinner, and went to sleep just as it was getting dark.

Sunday started off on the wrong foot. I slept through my alarm and ended up waking up two hours later than I wanted. Packing up seemed to take way too long; probably because I was in a hurry. After what seemed like an eternity I found myself slowly hiking up the Lion’s Head trail. It was another gorgeous day although I could feel that it was a little more humid than the day before and the views were a little hazier, but if Saturday was a 10, Sunday was a 9.9. When I made it to the top of the Lion’s Head, I planned to eat breakfast (a cliff bar), but a cold wind was in my face so I ate as I hiked. The entire hike up I was alone and didn’t see another person until I made it to the junction with the Tuckerman Crossover. From there I took the South Side trail. I didn’t like the South Side trail at all. The trail showed signs of little use and it was nerve wrecking to hike on, because often times I had to rock hop to avoid stepping on the vegetation. I was quite happy when I reached the junction with the Crawford Path.

I then hiked along the West Side trail avoiding the big climb up Washington. The trail condition was great and I could really move along on it. Before I knew it I had crossed under the train tracks for the cog and was heading down to the col between Washington and Clay. I enjoyed the short scrambles one the way up Mount Clay; I don’t feel like I’m climbing a mountain unless I get to use my hands. Once on top I got a good view of where I planned on heading. Mount Madison looked so far away, I looked at my watch and it was at this moment that I realized the full effect of sleeping in that morning. I needed to be back to my car at a decent hour because I still had a 4.5-hour drive home and I needed to get a full night sleep because I had a lot to do at work Monday morning. I looked at my map and decided to head to Mount Jefferson and play it by ear from there.

I practically ran down Clay, only slowing down for the really steep sections. I’ve learned over the years that going fast down hills is easier on my knees than constantly putting on the breaks. The col was a beautiful open meadow. There were a few clouds that rolled through form time to time, which gave some relief form the sun. The summit of Jefferson had disappeared behind some lower rock outcrops on my way down, but I knew I had a fairly sizeable climb ahead of me.

Jefferson brought more scrambles and more great views. When I reached the top I found it already occupied by a number of hikers, which didn’t surpize me at all being such a nice day. I found a nice rock to sit on and at a snack. It was now 1:30 and it was clear to me that I would have to save Adams and Madison for another day.

I descended down into Edmands Col and followed the Grey Knob trail to the Grey Knob cabin. The going became a bit miserable as the sun was beating down on me and there was absolutely no breeze to cool me down. To make matter worse I ran out of water partway down the trail. When I arrived at the cabin I was ready for a drink of water only to discover that there was no water at the shelter and I would have to hike an additional .2 miles to a spring. I dropped my pack, grabbed my water bladder and filter and walked to the spring. It was on the walk to the spring that I realized how dehydrated I had become. I was stumbling a lot, though I didn’t have a headache yet. I filled my water bladder, drank about a litter of water at the spring, and then topped it back off before walking back to the cabin. By the time I made it back I was feeling close to 100% again. I ate a snack and followed the Spur trail down to connect with the Amphibrach trail. I made it to the junction around 4. The Amphibrach trail was a pleasant surprise with its gentle grade, which made the final leg of my hike easy. By quarter to 5, I was changing cloths at my car and drove home.

Pictures:
http://community.webshots.com/album/417909436JSmkUt”

“Ya know, I wonder if I saw you on the trail. My buddy and I started from Rt.2 on tuesday, made it up to madison and adams on tuesday night and stayed at Gray Knob tuesday night. Then wendsday, from Gray Knob we made it to the summit of Washington by 1 ocklock, whereas we had started at 9! I didn't realize how fast we went until we were up on Washington and both my buddy and I were ready to puke. Agreed, not the smartest thing.
By the time we were at Washington, we were so wiped out we could barely think, so I persuaded my dad to pick us up on Washington rather then the Pinkham Notch Visitor Station. Tough hike, really tough hike, and it looks all the more intimidating as your standing on Washington and you're looking over to Madison and Adams, god that looked neverending from there.”

“Did you shave your moustache?”

“Jaynewallll - I was out there on Saturday & Sunday (8/6 - 8/7) so I probably wouldn't have run into you.

Adventurist – yup, I’m all clean shaven now.”

“Cool Deal! How about Artex, does he still look like a a mountain-man?

Photos came out good. Did you take them all as B&W on the cam or color, then convert?”

“Artex only halfway looks like a mountain man; he cut his hair. Here's a link to his report. Hope he doesn't mind me posting it.
http://www.jamieofthenorth.com/Southern%20Presidentials%20in%20August.htm

I took all the photos in color and converted them later.”

“HA! He put the hidden link in that trip report even!”

“It's on the pictures too. I shall have my revenge.”

“Put links to the TP story in your TR.”

“The TP story?”

“Nice TR. Why did you convert your pics to b and w? I liked them.”

“From the ADK High Peaks Buttkicker... weren't you there?”

“Tango - It started off with just the Mount Washington summit shots. I was looking for a way to blend in the man made structures without cropping them out of the photos. When I converted to b&w I was happy with the result and decided to convert all of the photos. I also liked the quality of shadow on the rocks and though the color was a little distracting.

Adcenturist – I’ve only gone on one of the ADK Buttkicker trips and it was the one Artex couldn’t go on.
last edited: 8/12/05 2:33:48 PM”

“Eccenturist?

Oh.. darn.. guess you don't know that story then. Maybe Artex will be kind enough to tell you that one.”

“Fun hike. Glad you had good weather for it.


I was in that area last week with my wife and kids.

We stayed night one at the Highland Center

Night two at Mizpah (straight up the Crawford Path and Mizpah cutoff 2.5 mi)

and night three at Lakes.


The hike from Mizpah to Lakes was a wall of fog. (this was Tuesday Aug 2). Wind was clipping along at 20 mph and visibility was limited to two cairns, often only one.

After claiming our bunks, and having a snack, my boys and I (ages 10 and 7) left my wife at Lakes with her book and climbed to the summit.


The anometer (sp) was registering wind at 35 with gusts to 40 when we walked in. The fog was thick enough to hurt as it hurled past us (well . .not hurt . ..but it ws pretty moist).


When we left an hour later it was gusting to 56 mph. the little guy had the hood of his wind/rain jacket and baseball cap stripped off his head almost immediately.

I held his hand and threatened to put rocks in his pockets to weigh him down.

they were both exellent troopers. We rolled back down to the hut in pretty good order. I gave the little guy a piggy back for something less than a 1/2 mile. The top of his foot was getting worn by his boot.


Screaming thunder storm that night. We were in a corner room (the corner by Monroe) and it was amazing. Little guy wanted out of the top bunk, so I went up.


Next day we hiked out over the Tuckerman Crossover and down the ravine to Pinkham .. .got the shuttle back to the highland center.



Lumber . . .
2 questions


1. Why didn't you just take the Tuckerman Ravine trail from the top rather than C-path to Tuck Crossover???? You added probably 1.5 miles to your hike.


2. I know that it is not a 4000 footer, but the hike from the end of Crawford notch, on the Appalachian trail up over Webster cliffs is spectacular. The trail goes straight up and puts you at the top of aweseom cliffs looking straight down into C-Notch. FYI for next time.”

“1. Why didn't you just take the Tuckerman Ravine trail from the top rather than C-path to Tuck Crossover???? You added probably 1.5 miles to your hike.


2. I know that it is not a 4000 footer, but the hike from the end of Crawford notch, on the Appalachian trail up over Webster cliffs is spectacular. The trail goes straight up and puts you at the top of aweseom cliffs looking straight down into C-Notch. FYI for next time.”
lee
3:55:26 PM
8/12/05
ignore this user

1) That's easy. I didn't know were the trail started from the top. This was only my second time hiking in the Whites and my first time to step foot on Mount Washington. It wasn't too big of a deal since it was a nice day.

2) That was actually our original plan, but that was changed so Artex could get back to his car easier.”

“Lumber --

Understood re: confusion at the top.


With all of the radio towers and crap its hard to figure out where the darn trailheads are.


If I remember correctly, the Tuckerman Ravine trail comes up into the lower level of the parking lot. I remember having to hike up a couple of levels of wooden stairs. The final insult after hefting a pack all the way up the darn trail (this was several years ago).

I wasn't paying attention . .where id Artex leave you?

At the base of Eisenhower??

Did he go back down the Edmunds path to Clinton road?

I have used Edmunds path several times.


Question.

On the far side of Ike. Just in the col. At the very foot of the steep drop down . .do you remember seeing a little pond/mudhole to your right????

It was through a little gap between the bulk of Ike and a rock mound.

Right up against the rock mound is a bunch of krummholtz with a hole in it (a great spot to pee).

Do you remember any of this??


15 years ago (that long??!!!) my buddy and I threw a tent in there at twilight one late Novemeber afternoon. It was spectacular. Crystal clear, beautful sunset.

I have a picuture of me in my office. It is a silouhette of me sitting on top of the rock pile at the summit of IKE with a deep purple and orange sky.

that night it got down below zero .. .we both had two bags with us. The next day we went up over Washinton and down the Jewel trail . .it was 15 during the day at elevation. Not a cloud in the sky.”

“and did you and Artex carry a stone with you to place on the top of the cairn on Ike??

Its tradition!”

“The most important question!!!!!

This is from Jamie's trip report


"for a very attractive caretaker at the hut, but unfortunately she left for supplies

Was she a slim blond with full lips and glasses???


If so, she is the hutmaster.


I spent a while chatting with her when we were staying there. She is a trail runner and regularly runs the ridge to Webster or to Lakes the other way.”

“Whre are you?
I am so jonesing for a hike in the whites and a slim blond hut mistress.”

“Artex and myself split up at the summit of Eisenhower. He went back the way we came (I think he followed the Crawford Path all the way back to the road) and I continued on towards Monroe.

I didn't bring a rock up, but would have if I was aware of the tradition (we have one similar form Mount Skylight here in the Adirondacks)

I can’t say that I remember seeing the spot that you mentioned in the col on the far side of Ike.

Now for the important question. The caretaker was slim and blond, but I never got a good look at her face in part because I took my prescription sunglasses off when I entered the hut so everything was blurry and because someone (I wonder who) didn’t alert me to her presents until she was leaving.”

“"I am so jonesing for a hike in the whites and a slim blond hut mistress.”-Lee


You'd be surprised on all the female rangers up here... most of them are smokin too. When I was up in the Franconias I ended up injuring my left knee and ankle and the cutest ranger passed me on the trail. She was so worried, she kept on asking me to come back down with her, she even told me she would carry me, ha! Not to mention, she thought I was 21, and i'm actually 16. I passed up something really great... damnit
last edited: 8/12/05 3:56:38 PM”

“One other comment. I'm moving to Canada, because I ran into a lot of good-looking women hikers and most of them were form Quebec. Maybe Gremlin can fill me in on this.”

“Nice TR and pics LZ. The Whites are definitly on my must hike list!”

“LZ

This trip sounds great and the pix are super.

I just made my first trip to backpack in the Adirondacks. My wife and I parkedat Upper Works and bpd up to Lake Colson. It was great. We wanted to climb Mt Marcy but ran out of time but we'll be back.

Your mtns are super.”