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John Muir Trail TR

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John Muir Trail TR
Just returned from our 20 day, 165 mile John Muir Trail trip. My twelve year old daughter joined me along with John from the UK with my husband and bro-in-law for the last week. Spectacular!!! No bears, lots of mosquitos. Conditions were excellent except for the skeeters.

Day one, July 30th, 2005. Tuolumne Meadows to Kuna Creek, 9 miles along the Lyell Fork. Taylor and John would suffer from the altitude, but recover after a couple days.


Peaks reflect



Painterly Lyell Fork



Lyell Fork towards Tuolumne Meadows, a few from NCH joined us this first night. Duane caught quite a few trout here.
paige
12:34:37 PM
8/21/05

Nice!
Snow Nymph
12:36:40 PM
8/21/05

Lovely!!

Geez SnowNymph, home for the weekend, huh?
last edited: 8/21/05 12:38:00 PM
mARKo
12:37:09 PM
8/21/05

Welcome back. Why 165-mile? I can't wait to see/hear the whole TR.

Did you see that I left early from my trip? I wasn't having fun at all, some 'bad chemistry' with one of the people. Jerry and I are talking about doing it together next year.
wannabp
12:44:31 PM
8/21/05

Day 2
Kuna Creek to base of Island Pass, John's sickest day. Taylor is really bugged by the bugs, ants, mosquitos and deer fly. She thinks that she will eventually get used to them, yeah right. ;)


Just below Donahue Pass



Taylor and John cross our first creek that requires our pants to be rolled up.
paige
12:54:39 PM
8/21/05

Thanks Snow, Wanna and Marko.
We had originally planned on around 200 miles, but after the 7th ten mile day my bad knee decided it had had enough, I had had sx on it five years ago and was told to take it easy on it. I worked my way up to the JMT, but apparently it was a bit much for it.
We scaled down the miles, giving my knee more time to rest between hiking and less pounding per day. Time constraints kept us from finishing the whole thing, Taylor had school and my husband had work. I was grateful that I could slow down and end the death march it had become. It was really all about spending time in the Sierra with my daughter, not about a goal.
Sorry about your difficulties Wanna, sounds like a good deal in the end though, hiking with your hubby next year.
last edited: 8/21/05 1:03:48 PM
paige
1:01:57 PM
8/21/05

Paige, I can totally relate to that. I found myself thinking 'death march' a lot. I don't like to go fast, but I went as fast as I could, most of the time. Gforce assured me that it wasn't a problem to move at my pace, and we walked together a lot. I believed him, but I couldn't get past knowing that his normal pace is probably twice as fast, so I would speed up on the flats and downhills. It was very kind of him to move at my pace on ascents, so I wanted to be kind and speed up when I could.

One of the days, my hip and knee hurt, not a lot, but I always respect any sign that there might be a problem since I've had surgeries there. I would hoist my pack off the bad side and more onto my shoulder, which helped, but seemed like it would eventually bother my back since the weight wasn't balanced. Prosecutor voiced the opinion that the trip itinerary was a contract that we all agreed to by signing up. I didn't want to deal with the fallout if my knee hurt more.

Yeah, doing it with someone I'm close to will be the best.
wannabp
1:46:19 PM
8/21/05

paige
I know what ya mean about the deathmarch.

My kid and I did back-to-back 15 mile days on The Long Trial 29-30 July with pedxing.

The knees were sore for a week.

The knuckleheads who laid out that trial in 1910 did not believe in switchbacks.
mARKo
1:50:12 PM
8/21/05

Nice report Paige and fine pix! Thanx!
pedxing
4:18:54 PM
8/21/05

Ped, your back! Did I miss your TR?? I'll look for it, if it hasn't been posted, git on it dude! ;)

Paige, I love the area you were hiking. I can't wait to get back there! Thanks for the pictures, although they make me (home) sick!

Wanna, I want to hike with you, I am sure I would probably go slower than you. Even when I am 100% I still like to go slow and see where I'm hiking and take pictures. That being said screw anyone that tells me how to hike. Hike your own hike and listen to your body! And you know that's the truth!
Tango
5:03:18 PM
8/21/05

A TT backpacking group is no stronger than the weakest member. Each member has a contractual obligation to offer help, aid, assistance and encouragement to all weaker members. Otherwise, it is not a group.
tt
5:33:17 PM
8/21/05

Day 3
Island Pass to Rosalie Lake, 10 miles. Gorgeous Ritter Range, Banner Peak, Thousand Island lake. We camp at Rosalie Lake where a breeze blows my tent and the mosquitos away. We did retrieve the tent, it was quite funny, but wouldn't have been if it blew the other way into the lake.



Ritter and Thousand Island


Taylor crossing one of the many log crossings, grateful for the bridges and log crossings.


Often photographed, but still so cool.


Taylor writes about her journey at Rosalie Lake. Head nets are a great investment!
paige
6:23:30 PM
8/21/05

Day 4
Rosalie lake to FOOD! :) aka Reds Meadow. Spent the night in the backpackers camp at Reds Meadow Campground, enjoyed a hot shower and a couple meals. Lots of people at this camp, ended up sharing our site with about 8 others. If you want to avoid the crowds steer clear of Tuolumne, Reds, VVR and MTR camps, they are a hot spot for backpackers. I enjoyed meeting others and hearing their stories. Taylor is happy to get to talk to her dad on the phone, although it does make her homesick. She wrote in her journal "My Mom told me to take it day by day and that is just what I will do"
We wore trail runners for the duration and didn't get one blister, I highly recommend them for 3 season use.


Fly fisherpeople on Minaret Creek


the first of many lakes I can't remember ;)


Taylor after a nice shower, damb it felt good!
paige
10:47:21 PM
8/21/05

Dang you California people!!!

It's been a very hot and humid summer in the east.
mARKo
11:03:59 PM
8/21/05

The weather was a bit different this year, lots of snow in the Sierra makes for a very short/ideal season for backpacking comfortably up there. People were canceling their trips earlier due to snow and high stream crossings, we were lucky and had smooth passes and stream crossings.

I can't imagine backpacking in hot and humid weather, I can hardly move in that kind of weather.
paige
11:28:27 PM
8/21/05

“the first of many lakes I can't remember ;)”. . . is Rosalie Lake! We wished we had stopped there, instead of Gladys Lake. Gladys had horse poop and hoof prints around the sandy shore of the small lake, and we were afraid to drink it. We boiled and filtered (a few times) and drank only what we had to until the next day when we got to Reds Meadow. Ummm, Vanilla shakes!

Wannabp, you will enjoy the JMT with Jerry. Our long trips are some of the best, and its because we know each other well and we make it work. Some days I feel better, some days he feels better. Its all good when you’re with the one you love in a beautiful place like the Sierra.

“People were canceling their trips . . . “ Yeah, we were one of those that tried in July, but bailed because of snow and water crossings. Even last Sept when we tried the SHR, we bailed. A unexpected storm hit 8 days into our trip, so we hung in there for another 3 days before heading out. We’ll start where we left off in September, our 3rd try. Wierd weather!

I also have trouble hiking when its too hot.

Paige, that’s so awesome taking Taylor with you! What a little studette! I might have to try the trailrunners. I know the Sierra Challenge guys use them, and they’re fast.
Snow Nymph
12:18:25 AM
8/22/05

Thanks Snow Nymph and to think I even camped there and couldn't place the photo ;)

Gladys was mosquito heaven this year, many a hiker recommended Rosalie instead, glad we did especially with your remarks on the horse stuff, yuck!

One of the important things to remember while hiking is when to know to bail, it's not worth our lives to reach our goals, IMO.
Seems you've learned that long ago.

Taylor starts middle school this year in a brand new town, I thought the hike would be good to keep her mind off school and put things into perspective. It was hard on us both, but well worth it in the end. I am very proud of her. It was a bit strange to other people though, they would ask if she was OK, she always looked so serious. I felt like telling everyone that this is how she'd look if you bumped into her in the mall let alone out in the middle of the Sierra. I remember being her age, it was very difficult to say the least and she's ten times more emotional then I was.
paige
1:01:53 AM
8/22/05

I agree that knowing when to bail is important. For me, the journey is far more important than the destination.

I'm pretty sure I look serious when I hike. I'm sort of on automatic pilot and daydreaming a lot, but I'm still paying attention to where I put my foot for every single step and trying to look around at the view or for wildlife without losing my rhythm. Sheesh, I hope no one would expect me to be grinning at the same time.

Ditto to what Snow Nymph says about knowing someone well, making it work, and being in a beautiful place with someone you love.
wannabp
2:30:30 AM
8/22/05

Wanna, yeah I look serious also, but tend to smile when people go by as I am sure you do too. Taylor can't seem to manage this and hardly whispers a hello. It actually drives me crazy but don't know what to do about it. She's extremely shy with strangers.

Bet you're looking forward to next years JMT hike! Nice to have something to look forward to, especially something as big as the JMT.
last edited: 8/22/05 12:51:44 PM
paige
12:45:11 PM
8/22/05

Day 5
Reds Meadow to Duck Creek, 12 miles. We encounter hordes of Deer Fly at Deer(fly) Creek and have to erect the tent to enjoy lunch. Today is the day my knee starts to pain me, the downhill is especially excruciating. I hobble into camp defeated. Hoping for a brighter day tomorrow. We have started drinking the water straight out of the streams. Taylor doesn't like the taste of the tablets and isn't drinking as much as she should so I take a chance in the "safe" looking streams, we drank like this for the rest of the trip with no ill affects.


Life and Death, Lupine at the Rainbow Fire section above Reds meadow


Duck Creek


Duck Creek


Duck Creek




Abstract Duck Creek
paige
1:10:21 PM
8/22/05

Fantastic pics Paige!
Y2
1:12:13 PM
8/22/05

Thanks Y2!
paige
1:57:47 PM
8/22/05

We did the same segment out of Reds Meadow, and the flies were awful at Deer Creek. Great photos.
wannabp
5:29:14 PM
8/22/05

Yeah, we thought the mosquitos were bad until we encountered the flies! Taylor was constantly pondering which were worse, I personally disliked the flies because of their style of pestering.
Ran into someone off the internet from another forum, he called them "dumb country flies" they were so slow that you could kill them in slow motion, just try to kill a fly in a city house and your chasing it for hours. ;)
paige
6:31:28 PM
8/22/05

Day 6
Duck Creek to Squaw Lake, 10 miles. Swimming in Lake Virginia then down, down, down to Tully Hole then up, up, up to Squaw Lake, above tree line we are rewarded with a beautiful sunset. Met 3 nice men from Marin County, troop leaders on a trip of their own, two hiking the JMT, one joining for part. They give Taylor inspiration and kudos for the next few days. This evening, Taylor has a hard time, the bugs and exposure are getting to her as is the freeze dried food, she craves Top Ramon and Cheez-It's for the rest of the trip.

taylor before her swim...


and after


John wilking down to Tully Hole


Taylor shielding herself from the blazing sun as our laundry soaks it up at 10,300 feet Squaw lake.







paige
8:25:57 PM
8/22/05

We were on the same time schedule a couple days apart. We did Duck Creek to Squaw Lake also. That was the day my hip and knee hurt a bit. Lots of up and down. I thought Lake Virginia was beautiful.

I didn't like my food at all, same food that has always tasted great before. Interestingly, I kept hearing how I wasn't eating enough, but I weighed and measured exactly the same when I got back as the day I left. Exercise has always depressed my appetite.
wannabp
9:26:36 PM
8/22/05

Welcome back to civilization Paige!

I had thought about you and Taylor how things were going for you all out there.
How sad to not have seen any bears! I have been enjoying your beautiful pictures & trip report..I love the lupine one, the one of Taylor with her laundry is really cool looking, very unique...and the one below that one..with those cute white puffy flowers.
Thank you for sharing your adventure!
madeintahoe
12:00:10 AM
8/23/05

Thanks Madeintahoe, think I'll start another thread for the rest, this one's getting too long.
Wanna, seems to me that for the first week I am not hungry, but after that I could eat a horse.
paige
11:20:34 AM
8/23/05

What kind of a camera do you pack paige? beautiful pics!
landscaperjb
10:01:01 AM
8/24/05

I can't get any work done at home with all these TT trip reports and photos. Keep it up! Great pictures Paige. Looking forward to the next installment.
jvz
11:11:45 AM
8/24/05

Paige - trail runners
What brand are you using.
jvz
11:15:25 AM
8/24/05

They are great pics Paige
Y2
11:16:51 AM
8/24/05

Paige,

Your combination of stellar raconteur prose coupled with your photos makes your trip report truly one of the finest,imho, I have ever read on trailtalk!

Kudos to you, your chillun and other party members for a 185 mile journey!!!

Awesome!

Wish I coulda been there!

Highcountry
highcountry
11:42:42 AM
8/24/05

Thanks guys!
I use a Canon 300Digital, it's rather large and heavy, but worth it's bulk and weight, IMO. I also carried a tripod and filters and 4 1/2 gigs of memory. The best part of the day for me photographically was evening when the light was oh so nice, plus I was able to get the long exposure water shots then because of the lack of light.

JVZ, I used Nike Air trailrunners and my daughter used Saloman XP's. They were both ready to retire after the trip.
paige
1:33:03 PM
8/24/05

Head over here if you'd like some more

http://www.thebackpacker.com/trailtalk/thread/39960,3.php
paige
3:58:32 PM
8/24/05

Your pictures are beautiful Paige. It's so nice that you were able to share that wonderful trip with your daughter.
wingding0
3:18:41 AM
8/25/05

Hi Paige,
I ordered some lightweight hiking boots
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/base_no.65435/dept_id.L2~6883/qx/product.htm
after reading that you wore the trailrunners. Not too many size 5 boots out there. I was going to try the trailrunners, but I do a lot of hiking off trail. Lately I've been having a lot of foot pain (Morton's Neuroma), so I'm willing to try something different. Hope it works!

Love the cascade pics!
Snow Nymph
5:10:15 AM
8/25/05

Snownymph
Great that you got some new shoes. It's all about fit, hope they do just that! Do you have any tennis shoes at home? Try them on your next hike (that doesn't have too much scrambling) and you might be really surprised. That way you won't spend any money on an experiment :)
paige
11:01:07 PM
9/02/05

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