Utah Trip Report! (WWWW BP Trip in Zion , etc.)

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9/26/2005 Mesquite, NV
9/27/2005 Red Canyon
9/28/2005 Calf Creek
9/29/2005 Posey Lake
9/30/2005 Coral Pink Sand Dunes
10/1/2005 Lava Point Campground
10/2/2005 La Verkin Creek
10/3/2005 Hop Valley
10/4/2005 Lava Point Campground
10/5/2005 Lava Point Campground
10/6/2005 West Rim Trail
10/7/2005 Watchman Campground

The best trips are not really planned… they evolve.

I had two weeks off this fall and for one of them I decided to go on two Zion backpacking trips with a group of gals that have met on various hiking forums, the WWWW (Wacky wonderful wilderness women, I think! JaneC, DyanTX, Bobcat, Mtmnslady, BettyK, and Madcow) The other week, the first week, I didn't really plan out… First I thought I'd head up to the Grand Staircase-Escalante area, but then Bobcat said she was going to be at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, so I planned on joining her since the Grand Canyon is one of the only places out in that area where I haven't been…

On Monday 9/26 I got a late start because I had to finish packing up my truck and drop off a few things at my boyfriend Todd's house then I found out he got laid off from his job. So we talked for a little while and then I finally got on the road around lunch time. I ran into some traffic north of Barstow as they were doing road repair and had I-15 down to one lane so by the time I got to Vegas it was dinnertime. I found the REI I planned to stop at and bought fuel for my stove and a few other things I needed and then grabbed some dinner and got back on the freeway. By then it was dark and there was no way I was going to make it to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon as I had planned so I decided to get a cheap hotel room in Mesquite, NV. It was a long day…

I had planned to meet Bobcat at the North Rim that night. I called her on her cell phone knowing she probably didn't have service but I left her a message anyway. In the morning I drove north and was near St. George when she called me. Turns out she needed fuel for her stove so she had driven north and was near Kanab when she got my message. We decided to meet at Mt. Carmel Junction to discuss our plans. When I got there she said she was tired and kind of just wanted to plant herself in Zion in a campground for a week. So I kept my original plans and headed north towards Grand Staircase-Escalante…

Near Bryce Canyon there is a canyon whose rock formations are so incredibly red that they've named it… you guessed it, Red Canyon! It's part of the Dixie National Forest and they have a beautiful new visitor center there right across from the campground. I decided to stay the night there and I hiked on the Pink Ledges and Birds Eye Trails as well as just scrambling around the rocks making my own route. I ate ravioli for dinner then packed up my stuff and retired to my tent just as I heard a rumble of thunder in the distance. The storm got closer and closer and soon lightening was crashing all around me and the sky opened up and it hailed and poured. After the first storm passed over me I went to the restroom and then another cloud came over. This time I sat it out in my truck. I did not feel very safe in my wet tent when lightening was that close!



When the skies cleared I got back in my tent and slept peacefully. In the morning I packed up and headed east. I stopped at the new visitor centers for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Cannonville and Escalante. What a great job the BLM has done with them! I then drove to the Calf Creek Campground, found a great campsite right on the creek, set up my tent, then packed my daypack and hiked up to Lower Calf Creek Falls. This is an absolutely gorgeous hike, 6 miles roundtrip, and minimal elevation change. The waterfall is the most beautiful one I have ever seen in the southwest! What a wonderful place…

That afternoon after the hike I took my chair down to the creek and soaked my feet. The water was the perfect temperature and the cottonwood trees that were just starting to change to gold shaded my perfect little spot. I was in heaven :)



The bubbly creek sang me to sleep that night and in the morning I awoke early to some scurrying noises in the bushes. I peeked out the tent to find a half a dozen wild turkeys poking around my campsite! I then got up, ate breakfast, packed up, and headed a few miles down the road to the Escalante River Trailhead. I hiked up to Escalante Natural Bridge, which is the 5th largest natural bridge after Rainbow, Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo Natural Bridges all of which I had seen already. The hike to the bridge is about 3.5 miles round trip and is easy except you do have to ford the river 4 times. This time of year it only came up to my knees. Since I did the hike so early in the morning I had the trail completely to myself…

Then I drove northeast and stopped in Boulder, Utah to fill up my gas tank. This is a beautiful little town at the edge of forest and canyon. And the forest this time of year is gorgeous! The aspen stands on Boulder Mountain are incomparable… I've seen a lot of beautiful aspen in California and Colorado and Wyoming and other places in Utah but nothing like this… Wow. I found a great spot off an unsigned dirt road to eat lunch and to walk around and photograph the aspen. The weather was absolutely gorgeous – just a few fluffy white clouds floated overhead to soften the brilliant blue sky.



I decided to then take a backcountry Forest Service Road that I had heard about last time I came through that area… The Hell's Backbone Road. Reputedly to be one of the most dramatic roads in the area as there's one section where they had to build a bridge over the head of two canyons and the drop is 1,500' on either side. Fun! So off I went.

Man, it was gorgeous back up in there, and not a single other car did I pass for about 45 miles… The Hell's Backbone Bridge was indeed dramatic and I later learned that the CCC had built it and that this was the original road to Boulder. Hwy 12 is a very scenic road and is the one most people take nowadays, but don't miss the Hell's Backbone Road if you go out there!

I checked out Blue Spruce Campground and there was a pretty creek that ran through it but no one else was camped there and being out in the middle of nowhere on my own I decided to drive to Posey Lake which appeared to be a bigger and more popular campground. Sure enough, there were 2 others camped at Posey Lake and so I decided to stay the night there. The lake is aspen-rimmed and quite beautiful. I wished I had a kayak to explore it! I settled for sitting on the boat dock and eating my dinner. Later I made a small campfire to keep my company.



The next day I again packed up early and headed out. I drove down into Escalante stopping briefly to check out the trailhead for The Box. That looks like a very cool hike that I will definitely have to do someday! Just west of Escalante I again left the Highway and took another Forest Service back road that climbed the mountains north of Powell Point. Then I came back down into the area near Bryce Canyon and decided to stop at Ruby's Inn, do a load of laundry, eat lunch, and check in with my family.

Then on west I drove, passing through Red Canyon again and then going on to Panguitch and then taking the very scenic road to Cedar Breaks National Monument. I had planned on staying there for the night but the campground wasn't very inviting. No one was camped there and there were lots of dead spruce trees. I guess they've had a beetle infestation there... So I stopped at the Visitor Center, listened in on a ranger talk, and then decided to drive down to Navajo Lake to see if the campground there was nicer. Nope. The lake is pretty but the campground is ugly – more dead trees and they wanted $14/night which is kind of expensive when all the amenities you get with that price tag is a pit toilet and table. So I drove on down the mountain. Looking at the map I decided to push on to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park which looked like someplace worth checking out. And it was! The campground there is also $14/night but it has showers, which I definitely took advantage of. Most of the sand dunes are open to ATV'ers but there are parts that are off limits and I had a great hike that evening. The sand is, yes, coral pink, and such a fine consistent grain – I took off my shoes and it felt wonderful beneath my toes! As I made tracks over the dunes I checked out all the other critter tracks.



In the morning I drove south into Arizona. Where the pavement ended I was faced with driving on loose deep sand but I kept my speed up and made it through that sandy stretch just fine with my little truck. I stopped for gas on the Kaibab Paiute Reservation because it was the cheapest I'd seen! $2.74/gallon. Then I decided to visit Pipe Spring National Monument. What a great stop! Normally I'm not as interested in history as I am into nature, but the museum there is great and I went on a tour of Windsor Castle and the NPS guide did a fabulous job! I was fascinated by her tales of what life was like out there for the Mormon Settlers and the Indians.

I then drove over to Kanab for lunch and then drove north to Zion. I had originally planned to meet the WWWW girls at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center but figured since I had ended up further south again that meeting them at Lava Point would be easier. So I drove through the Zion Tunnel then west then up the Kolob Terrace Road to Lava Point Campground. Man, what a beautiful road! I had been to Zion four times but never up this side road. I think it is now my favorite part of Zion as it's not anywhere near as crowded as the Valley or even the Kolob Canyons side. The Lava Point Campground is small, is surrounded by aspen trees, and is right at the highest elevation in the park. It's also free!

I met Bobcat at the campground and later that evening Mtmnslady and DyanTX showed up. In the morning we left my truck at the West Rim Trailhead, left Bobcat's car at the Hop Valley Trailhead, and then drove over to the Kolob Canyons Trailhead. There we picked up our permit and started our first BP trip.

I had been down the first part of this trail before… Back in 2000 my best friend Andrew and I completed a 14-mile dayhike to Kolob Arch and back – but we got a late start and had to hike the last part by moonlight. But this time was nice because we took our time and we stayed down there for a couple of days. We stayed at Campsite #12 which was shady and next to La Verkin Creek. The next day Bobcat, Dyan, and I hiked up the creek a mile or so until the trail disappeared; on the way we passed a beautiful emerald green pool. Then we made our way back down to our campsite and then had to pack up and leave as the next night's occupants had already arrived! We packed up, filtered water – a lot of water as we weren't sure there would be any at our next campsite, then headed up the Hop Valley Trail. We had learned by this time that filtering from silty La Verkin creek clogged up filters real quick like so this time we filtered from a clearer side stream.



The Hop Valley Trail is steep at first. The trail switchbacks up and is overgrown in many areas. I have a feeling not many people go beyond Kolob Arch! This trail is also very sandy in spots. Our campsite, B, was also not very protected from the wind and it was very windy that night. We gathered rocks to hold down our tent stakes and I made a windscreen out of some dead wood and we managed to cook dinner behind it and not eat too much sand. That night I was grateful I had a wind-worthy tent and earplugs to help me sleep.

The next day's hike out of Hop Valley was interesting. First we met a bunch of ornery cows. They were, I guess, being protective of their calves besides just being stubborn and not wanting to budge from the trail. We renamed them the Hop Valley White Faced Bears, lol The trail wasn't really obvious so we just followed the map and tried to find landmarks as we went. The trail climbed steeply up out of the valley on what appeared to be an old road that was littered with sharp lava rocks. Then it was a sandy slog the rest of the way. It got quite chilly once we were up near the Kolob Terrace Road and dark clouds were moving in behind us. When we finally made it up to Bobcat's car we were pooped! Since Bobcat and I were ahead of theo ther two, she ran be back up to my truck and on the way we passed two big beautiful bull elk. Then Bobcat ran back down to pick up Mtmnslady and Dyan. They then drove to Kolob to retrieve Debra's truck. By the time they got back to Lava Point it was late afternoon. Later that evening Betty K and her husband showed up with their two very cute dogs, Max and Moses. Then later still JaneC and Madcow came. We spent the evening organizing gear and preparing for our hike on the West Rim Trail the next day.

The West Rim Trail is a beautiful one even though some of the forest burned in a 1996 fire. The oak and maple were turning into their colorful fall wardrobes and the views were endless! I first hiked with the faster hikers, Bobcat and Madcow. When we got to the Potato Hollow Spring we found a great big Ponderosa Pine to eat lunch under. I also found two great big blisters on my heels So I moleskinned them up and the rest of the day and all the next day I hiked with the moseyers - Betty, Dyan, and Jane.



After filtering water we left Potato Hollow and it was a long trek to Campsite #4 on the West Rim as we were all carrying a gallon or more of water as it would be another dry camp. We were all tired by the time we got there! So we ate dinner and went to bed when the sun did.

In the morning Bobcat and Madcow got up early and left early – they were both going to climb up to Angel's Landing. I already climbed it once a year and a half ago, and with my blisters, I didn't feel like climbing it again, so I hiked with the moseyers. We moseyed down off of the West Rim on a very dramatic trail that is carved right into the sandstone cliff. The autumn colors in the canyons were beautiful and then we began to bump into more and more dayhikers. By the time we got to the base of Angel's Landing it was a zoo! And my feet were getting very sore… We stopped in the shade for a break and were greeted by 2 very friendly chipmunks. Then it was down down down Walter's Wiggles, a famous and steep series of switchbacks. All the while I was wondering where Walter's Escalator or Elevator was? Anyway, I was glad, very glad, to see the bridge crossing the Virgin River and the trailhead and Mtmnslady waiting for us :) We hopped on the shuttle and it took us back to the Visitor Center. Nearby is Watchman Campground and there Betty's husband was waiting with a nice big site on the river where we set up our tents, and after eating dinner and shuttling cars around, retired early.



In the morning, with weather moving in and with blisters on my heels, I decided to start the long drive home. We had thought about trying to hike up the Narrows that day, but with the river being cold and unusually high for this time of year, and the possibility of rain that day, we thought it best to stay out of the canyon. So while the other gals planned out alternative day hikes, I packed up. Mtmsnlady, who planned out the trip, bought us all bandannas which had a topo map of Zion printed on them. We each signed them all and they made for a very cool souvenir. We also indulged in a giant dark chocolate candy bar I had bought as our reward for a hike well-hiked

I made it home in record time, with just a few stops. It was very windy coming over Tehachapi Pass but otherwise the drive home was uneventful.

Anyway, I had a great time hiking with everybody! I especially enjoyed Bobcat's stories, Dyan's ("Well, almost anything's edible.") and Betty's ("I see a whole man!") funny remarks, Jane's and Madcow's and Mr. K's friendliness, and a special thanks to Mtmnslady who invited me :)

Full Trip Report with lots more pictures!!

http://www.tarol.com/roadtrips_ut_05.html”

“Great TR. I've never been out that way but its on my must see list. I'll probably note your t r very closely and follow your footprints some day. Great photos too.”

“Hey!! There you are :) I just enjoyed with my morning coffee sitting here reading your TR and drooling over your pictures! You totally took me back for a short while to one of my favorite most special places in the world to me!
WOW BC what an awesome TR and beautiful pictures you got. I love the wacky wonderful wilderness women..thats perfect! reminds me a little of the Great old broads for Wilderness..have you heard of that one?

Glad you were able to see those aspens on boulder mountain...I know there is nothing like them. We drove the Hells back bone road also..it is amazingly beautiful. Boulder is an awesome little town...did you do any of the Burr Trail Road? Thats pretty cool too..we almost bought a half built straw bail cabin on 4 acres out on that road 10 years ago.

I have not been to the coral pink sand dunes....always just driven by it when in that area. It is really beautiful..I love the pictures of the animal tracks you got, the color of the sand is so pretty! To bad about having ATV being allowed on parts of it!

Our water filter clogged once too...getting water from the Escalante River..I remember that well. How cute of Mtmsnlady to get you all the bandannas, what a great thing to have to remember the trip!
How are your blisters? Too bad about not doing the narrows..you will just have to go back and do that someday!
I heard about that new visitor center for the Escalante Grand Staircase. I did not know about the new one for Red Canyon...Don't you love the hoodoos?

Thanks BC for sharing your trip report and pictures...the pictures are beautiful you really captured the true beauty of that area.
Thank you for bringing me back for a short while to a very special place to me! It has been about 6 years that I have been in that area..so I really miss it a lot!”

“I'm with you Madeintahoe! Southern Utah is my very favorite places!

Bearcrossing, I loved Calf Creek falls and campground. I stayed there and there is nothing better than to soak your feet in the creek when you finish the trail for the day.

You have made me miss this area even more. But I loved your TR. Thank you for sharing. I will be moving out that way in 4 years, hope to meet you!”

“MadeinTahoe - I drove the length of the Burr Trail Road back in 2000... I worked for a few months in nearby Natural Bridges National Monument. I've also driven on the Cottonwood Canyon Road twice :) Next up will be the Hole in the Rock Road, which I thought about doing this time but I didn't want to venture out there by myself... I love that whole area!!
last edited: 10/16/05 9:06:45 PM”

“Wow.... looks like you saw a great cross section of Utah. Great TR, and great photos.”

“Fantastic! Now that whole area is another 'must see.'”

“I did Hole in the Rock Road. It was fantastic! I had a wonderful time in the slots in Dry Gulch there. And funny thing I met some people that were from Orlando there. It surely is a small world. Devil's Garden was neat, right in the middle of the desert. The drive is full of wonderful sights and was a great adventure. There were many places I just had to pull over and investigate and explore.”

“TKD - did you do Spooky or Peakaboo or Coyote?”

“I did Peakaboo and Spooky, I missed doing Brimstone. It was awesome, but of course those were my first slots ever, so I was impressed.”

“I'm hoping to go back next fall and do those slots”

“Great report! I've been to most of the things mentioned. WAAAAH! I wanna go back. Sooo... oh The Killing Dance... I think we need to do a trip. :-) Get that back well! ;-)”

“from the hike. It was great seeing them all again. Thanks for hiking with me in one of my favorite places.

Debra
http://community.webshots.com/album/480329648bNrlBo”

“I am off my pain meds lizs. I have to try to modify a pack so I have no weight on my shoulders. I want to try to make the shoulder straps come down like suspenders in the front and attach to the hip belt.

I am on the treadmill doing some real slow and short minutes. By next fall I'll be ready!!!! Bring it on girlie!!”

“Nice!”