Planning Mt. Rainier

“I figured it would be smart to get some practice and experience before I hit the big mountains... so i'm goin to Mt. Rainier this summer. I'm personally organizing everything... and my cousin's guiding, so... what i'm lookin for is some tips on how to do this... i've got a good idea... but from past experience with TT, you guys always get something I miss...”

“Awhile back, I found a website where 2 guys walked up the NE slope to the top of Rainier and posted a continuous stream of photographs showning each segment of route they took and they must be in excellent condition for them it seemed like a casual walk.”

“I'm going to try to do Mt. Rainier this summer too. I'm going to sign up for one of the RMI 3-day summit trips.”

“I climbed Rainer in 2001 on a RMI trip. Great experience. Physically one of the toughest things I have ever done.

I would start planning by considering Mt. Rainer one of "the big mountains." It usually kills a few people a year, so you really need to know what you are doing, especially if you are up there without professional guides.

Begin training in January...lots of miles on the trail, carrying a pack that's heavily weighed down. Helps train the body compensate for the lack of oxygen at altitude.

Good luck!”

“bongofreek has it right-Rainier isn't always a charming mt. Consider that it has sadly killed climbers who used it for training for Denali, Everest, etc.
My advice? Do it in good weather, do it with the best gear you can afford, and make sure your cousin knows what they are talking about ;-) If not, RMI is a good company.
Last but not least..train, train and more training...get on the stair climber with a pack on-and do that a lot! :-)”

“Mt. Rainier and its hiking trails is the location of training for Everest and K2. That might give you an idea of the dfficulty level and preparedness required of you to climb the mountain.”

“Good luck, all. It's too big for me, but I'd love to read about your training and the TR after. And see photos.”

“Have you looked at what dates you are taking the RMI course? I'm planning on doing the same this summer, would love to try to catch of fellow TT'er on the trip.”

“I haven't picked the dates yet, have you creekjumper? I'm thinking about early to mid August, but my vacation time is really flexible so I can do it just about anytime over the summer. It would be nice to have another TTer on the trip.

I think I'll put down the deposit in the next couple of weeks. I don't know how quickly the trips fill up.”

“Same here. For that amount of time I'm really flexible, so the exact date really doesn't matter. I would absolutly love to go with another TT'er. Let's look at our calenders and see if they have stops available. I'm ready to book! Fantastic! Drop me an email: LLSFBC@BELLSOUTH.NET”

“By the way...lead guide on my trip: Dave Hahn. One of the premier mountain climbers in the US. Was on the expedition where they found Mallory's body on Everest, many PBS mountaineering specials, etc. etc. Real climbing master...got to sign the summit book right after him (my "1st ascent" looked pretty weak next to his "86th ascent").”

“Goretex jogged up Rainier and back five times after rappelling off the GW Bridge and skipping along the entire Appalachian Trail, all in one day.”

“WOW! What an honor! Do you have any photos of your trip posted anywhere?”

“I'll email you creekjumper. This is going to be fun.

bongofreek - sounds like you got a great guide. I've heard they have some really experienced guides. Do you know if most of the guided trips make it to the summit?”

“I think there's one on the Phil's photo page...I've been here for a while, so i think I am in an archive or something. Unfortunately, the trip was before I had a digital camera, so not too many pics.

Got to hike with Hahn a lot on the trip, his rope team and mine were sort of pair together. He was really good, the only big name on the trip, but I remember another guide with us had summitted over 300 times.

wingding0: they have really good success, but you know how it is: weather, conditions, sickness, etc. there are a lot of things that can keep you from the top.”

“I did Rainier in 2003 with RMI. Bongofreek is right, it was the toughest thing I've ever done. Train, train train. and when you're sick of training, train some more.

Some 70% of those attempting in July and August succeed. By the same token that's when it's the most crowded.

Good luck and have fun!”

“lol@ghoulbeet!”

“My questons to the poster:

What is your previous experience with ice axe and crampons?

What is the highest elevation you have ever climbed at?

What is the most elevation gain you have ever done in one day?”

“Rainier is a serious glacier climb. Make sure you and your climbing partners are well versed in using crampons & an ice axe, plus have experience in roped travel on glaciers and crevase rescue.

If you are not comfortable with all these, go with a guide service. I went with RMI in 1988 on the Muir Hut route, but there are other guide services that operate up the Eammons Glacier route.”

“I'll add a few questions to USA's list:

where are you training (at what elevation)?

can you extricate yourself or a team mate from a crevasse?

Can you self arrest from any position with an ice axe?

can you jumar or prussik up a rope?

Rainier is one big mother mountain. I've been on it five times, and its been from "not too bad" to a "real #&%!$", and the spectrum seems to be linked to the age of the climber. It was not too bad when I was 22, but a real #&%!$ when I was 52. I think I have a few photos of Rainier on Phils photo page.

That being said, it can be done, but don't underestimate it.

Last time I trained by carrying a 75 lb pack up local hills (starting with lighter weights and working up). Also a lot of time on a treadmill with 75 pounds in a pack, set at full incline, with climbing boots. You and your partner better be in the best shape of your life, or you'll poop out somewhere above 10,000'.”

“I assume the poster knows what he/she is getting into.”

“I echo sentiments above. Rainier can be dangerous. I don't know you or your cousins experience level. There are many objective dangers; crevasses, ice and rockfall, avalanches, whiteouts. You will need to be versed in self arrest, crevasse rescue, bivouacing, AMS, etc as help may not be forthcoming if you have problems. Suggest a 5-6 day seminar if you plan on bigger mountains either RMI out of Paradise or on Emmons with Cascades Alpine, Mt Rainier Alpine, etc.

Personally for Rainer and other big climbs over the years I've done 4-5 climbs on AT, Holsten Mt, etc in NE NC/SW Va with 55 lbs on something steep ( >1000 ft/mile). I stay aerobically conditioned throughout the year cycling and hiking. I did not find Rainier any worse than some of the hikes I've done around here (or out west), though it was a long day with the alpine start (11 hours hiking with 1 hour break on summit).”

“A climber was lost and I'm not sure he was ever found and if so he had to be dead on Mt. Rainier doing a regular trail that led him onto an ice field or so they thought.

I met his mom while she was hiking on the last trail her son camped at before he took off for the one where he became lost, Comet Falls.”

“LH...yeah, that was an intresting story about the hiker. Just like *poof* and he was gone, no trace.
Easy enough to happen though-considering the majority of people at Rainier don't go off trail-and he was.”

“be sure to follow the previous two poster's advice, one's never been hiking and the other's never left a trail. oh wait. they didn't offer advice, they just decided to hijack the thread.”

“Rush, being prepared is good advise and it doesn't always work either. The most experienced climbers have gotten killed on Mt. Rainier and other mountains. Mount Rainier makes it's own weather, so you never know what to expect, just be ready, very ready!

Me off the trail, yep, but it's a long story and it took me an extra day to find my way to a logging road where I was able to walk back to my car. Boy did that big wide logging road look good after walking "through" bushes, climbing over magnificent huge downed trees or doing the limbo under them if there was enough clearance. I was lucky enough to find a tiny piece of ground that didn't have any brush, running water or trees where I could put up my tent for the night.”

“actually, you were the "never been hiking" example.”

“I wouldn't say Rainier has trails (exept the Wonderland and others below snow line) One either hikes up up a glacier or a ridge. You solo fall in a crevasse, poof you will disappear and your body will be spit out next century.

This year a father son died in May of hypothermia in a whiteout on Muir snowfield, with full packs, tent, sleeping bags, food, etc. (hypothermia clouds one judgement.) Another fell of Gibralter ledge 2 weeks later, also died. Recues off Emmons,Ingraham, and Liberty ridge this year.
Mountaineering is inherently dangerous.”

“Wingding, I know you know what you're getting into. If it's where you want to go, then you have my best wishes for a great trip.”

“We all know that "mountaineering is inherently dangerous", don't we?”

“Gee, is chubby Dubby bored again?
My feelings on Rainier are respect her first, then consider climbing her ;-) I pretty much rever Rainier-considering I live under her shadow. I have hiked about 2/3 rds of her trails-and I LOVE going off trail (ie.. X/C) up there. Fabulous times can be had.
But most of all I do respect that avy's, rock fall and crevasses are daily things. I am defintely very careful when I am in tundra or above at Rainier.”

“Yeah I deffinitely know what i'm getting my self into. I'm in pretty damn good shape right now and i've just started a much more rigorous training program, which will go on for 7 months. I live in the heart of the white mountains of New Hampshire... and i've experienced the worst on Washington. My cousin is an incredible athlete, he's 32, a solid mountaineer, and someone I can most deffinitely trust. There's going to be three others coming with us, my climbing teacher who i've been climbing with for three years now, and my two very good friends who are both my age (16). My two friends are also very ready to do this, having done everything i've done. I'm sure this climb will work out great, our what were calling "team" now, trusts eachother 100%, and that's what really matters to all of us. We're all highly familiar with crevasse rescue, and all of us are going to continue taking classes in it. My self arrest skills are excellent, i've been practising for years. Our gear is incredible, were using three tents that have recently been used on Annapurna in the Mihalayas. Our bags are all rated to between -30 and -40. Crampons, snow shoes, clothing, helmets, axes, and all the other gear, we've got it. So above all, i'm pretty optomistic, and I really think that this will be a success. Then after Rainier... I plan on making the big step up to succesfully summiting Denali...”

“You might change your definition of the word "mountain" after Rainier. I'll be interested to see how it works out for you, and I think it will work out fine, but Rainier is not a New Hampshire mountain. If things go well it will be the hardest thing physically you have ever done, but not necessarily very technical. Good equipment is fine, but I've been on plenty of mountain rescues where the rescuers had old beat up worn out out of date gear, and the rescued had the best money could buy. When you get there, if the weather is not clear and predicted to stay clear don't even set foot on the mountain.”

“Yeah I know... i was just trying to get the point across that we're prepared. I have quite the training program ahead of me which i'm sticking too, and I really think it's going to get me in the shape I NEEED to be in for this mountain. I understand that this mountain will change my perspective on mountains, but I wouldn't under-estimate how much Washington can prepare you. But i've got a long 7 months ahead of me to prepare. so we'll see how it goes.”

“You sound prepared. I hope you have a good climb and stay safe. Tell us about the climb on your return”

“and now the training begins - July 29, 30, 31 are the big days”

“Perfect days to be up on the mountain. Last week of July and first week of August are typically the best weather around here. This was taken about the exact same days. Sunrise on the Emmons Glacier as seen from Disappointment Cleaver.


last edited: 10/26/05 10:47:12 PM”

“Our gear is incredible, were using three tents that have recently been used on Annapurna in the Mihalayas

where the hell are the mihalayas?

from your description of yourself, you should skip Rainier and start EMI - the Everest version of RMI.

nice shot, usa - whose website did you steal it from?”

“Break out the training shoes!!!!!!!!!! July 29,30 & 31. Wingdings and Creekjumpers BIG adventure begins!!!!!!!!!”

“oh god... typing mistake (Himalays) [img]:-0”

“HIMALAYAS”

“I'm soooo looking forward to giving Rainier a try.”

“If Mt. Washington is the highest elevation you have climbed at, then you better be prepared for altitude sickness.”

“A good way to finish your preperation for Rainier is to climb a peak of at least 12,000' about two weeks before the Rainier climb. That way in addition to all your physical training you boost your body in ways that help with dealing with altitude. I don't know how you do that in NH, but if you could it would help a lot. Some very fit people get hit with altitude sickness even at 10,000, as USA alluded to.”

“How people react to altitude varies greatly and is not always a function of fitness.

I have had a very fit person with severe symptoms at 13,000ft while a very unfit and somewhat chubby person in the same party had no problems at all.

We had all come from sea level, flown to 5k two days before, bus to 8k and hiked to 11k and overnighted.

2 of 6 had headaches and opted to rest for a day, 4 went for summit, 1 got very sick at 13 and had to be helped down.
I suspected that fit 'macho-man' was feeling effects at 11k and denied it. Oh!! chubby had to help macho walk down LOL.”

“I live at 1,500 feet elevation, but I'm lucky to be not too far from the Sierra Nevada. I find that I can go up to 14,000 without much acclimation and survive. This year over 4th of July - Mount Williamson (14,370') was 9,500 feet in two-days, snow didn't start until 10,000 feet. Mount Whitney (14,491') in August via the Mountaineer's Route as a day hike with 6,100 feet of gain. Williamson was harder due to the snow and the 40 pound pack that was carried up 6,500 feet the first day.

It is very true that everyone reacts differently to altitude. I definately slow down over 10,000 feet, but I don't get sick.

USA - you are such a negative person”

“From what I have heard in many converstaions with climbers out here, is that while our Mts might not be huge persay, the chance of Alti sickness is higher. Why? Part of it is that we are so close to the open water. Heck, I have had minor alti sickness at 5500 ft!! (On a trail near Baker..the weather was shifting, didn't eat right). On the other hand, I have been on minor peaks where I was much higher and had no issues. So yes, it can happen-my friend who lives on the beach on the Olympic Pennisula got symptoms of alti sicknes while doing the WT with me a year ago-yet he hikes all the time..difference was the enviorment he was used to being in, and the heat.
So yes, people DO get alti sickness on Rainier-and not always where one might expect it show up. I don't think that USA is out of line either.”

“jayne., this piece of earth is not a mountain at all; it is a frikin' monolith

There are training devices that you can purchase. They are expensive, but they are a sort of anti-respirators that you can put over your face, a mask so that as you train - run - you can approxinate the lack of o2. Maybe you already know of the device, and I don't really think that it would neccessarily be something a trainer would use usually, but there is the option to use it, should you be interested in elevation simulations during your training.
last edited: 10/28/05 6:13:44 PM”

“Rush, my well toned thighs and calves say I do hike!:)”

“i didn't say he was out-of-line

i just said he is negative or at least he comes across that way”