Davenport Shelter -- GSMNP

“Hello. I just got off the phone with the GSMNP reservation office, and will be hiking in the Big Creek area over Memorial Day weekend, and will be driving in Friday after work. Rather than sleep in the campground, I'm going to sleep at Davenport Shelter.



Could someone fill me in on parking conditions where the AT crosses the Hwy? I’d like to just leave my car there overnight since it’s only a mile or so to the shelter from the road.”

“The Park Service used to discourage parking there due to vandals.
It's not far to the Big Creek ranger station where I leave my car when I hike in this area.
Last time I drove by there was only room from 3 or so cars anyway at the Gap.”

“dang, thats some sweet accomodations! I've heard about the vandal problems a the Gap too - but that was a while back.”

“Friday evening, 26May06: Follow Highway to point where AT crosses, and then park and overnight at Davenport shelter. (approx 1mi.)

Saturday, 27May06: Big Creek Trailhead to Mount Sterling (#38) campsite (approx 6mi) using Baxter Creek Trail. Climb firetower, gush over the views, howl at the moon, whine about water source being so far away, and contemplate why the campsite area is known as the “devil’s bedchamber.”

Sunday, 28May06: Proceed to Walnut Bottoms (#37) campsite (approx 11mi) by following the Benton MacKaye trail past the Swallow fork and Pretty Hollow Gap intersection, following the ridgeline of the Balsam Mountain trail, stopping for lunch at Laurel Gap shelter (whining again about water source being so far away), switching to the Gunter fork Trail until we reach the campsite area at Walnut Bottoms.

Monday, 29May06: Return to cars (approx 6mi) by using the Big Creek trail.”

“I wouldn't park at the Gap. I would take Stove Stomper's suggestion.”

“I did that trip in reverse a few years back and got a couple of inches of snow in March up at the fire tower. Twas cold as cold could be up thar.

Walnut Bottoms is an awesome campsite though.”

“Mnt Moma might could be hired to shuttle you up to the gap from Big Creek.
You will have to shuttle or walk back uphill anyway.”

“okie dokie.. I'll just hoof it from the ranger station area to be safe.

Thanks!!”

“there has been some recent breakins at Davenport Gap - see Whiteblaze for details
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14311”

“TownDawg - Don't!!! There is a small parking area across the road, but I don't recommend using it.

I recommend parking at Big Creek Ranger Station, Big Creek Picnic Area or at Mountain Mama's. In all cases you can hike up or try to get a shuttle at Mountain Mama's.

Too cheap to pay for a campsite, huh? (j/k-ing)”

“People are used to seeing backpackers on that road from Big Creek to the Gap so the chance of getting a free lift is high.
The hamburgers at Mtn Moma's are not to be missed at the end of the trip.
Wish I was going with y'all! That's a GREAT hike! Been a bunch of years since I did it.”

“Yeah, I held four spots, and they are already tentatively spoken for, so I think the trip is completely booked. We will take lots of pictures though, and I'll let you know if someone drops out.”

“Thanks, but my comment was more wishfull thinking, TD. ;-)”

“heh.. after all these years -- you are still the same Stovie. :)..

Seriously, it's going to be a good trip. Hopefully we won't be absolutely buried with tourons trying to "backpack".”

“Paul -- I'd to talk with you more in length. Could you send a contact phone number to chris.fox@dana.com?”

“Listen to SS...don't park there.

The shelter is a nice place to spend the night. When I was there a few years ago, there were no bear cables. The mice run around in the chimney all night and it makes an annoying "clanking" noise. The spring is right next to the shelter and is a good water source.

The shelter is about 2 miles from I-40 and about 1 mile from Davenport Gap.”

“MDSHiker - has it right. And the trail from the road down to I-40 is real pretty. There is a nice creek a short way from the bottom. If you have time, it is worth a 5-10 minute hike up from the bottom. With more time, the entire hike from the top down is worth it.

I could give you a telphone number, but I'm not home___don't expect to be there until November. Can't accumulate any bag nights there! Why don't you get over to Elkmont this weekend? We could route "bit" to the Dome via Morristown or the Graveyard Trail. You could be a big help. And it would be nice to see you.”

“You forgot to schedule in the 5pm - 5:30pm rain shower”

“Laughing!”

“Ok, I never visited the Big Creek area. I see where I exit I-40 at the Waterville exit, and how the road takes me to the Big Creek ranger station. I know its 1.1 mi from where the AT crosses the Hwy, and it’s about another mile from that spot to the 4-way intersection.

I’m assuming the ranger station is another mile, and the campground even another. So we are looking at about 4 miles in, and four miles out just for the chance to sleep in Davenport palace.

I’ve never been to Mountain Mama’s place either. Where is it, how far would that hike be from that spot?”

“Paul – would love to, but my son is running the Nashville marathon this weekend, and we are all going to Memphis for the MusicFest the following weekend. I’m lucky to be able to get away Memorial Day weekend to be honest. Life’s too short not to share some family times though.”

“Hey, I've hiked that area of GSMNP before! Ahhhhh... good times.”

“* laughs *

You should come down, Ms Tara. I almost got to come up to Detroit the early part of this week, but only made it to Indiana instead due to some last minute changes.”

“Would if I could TD. But, the big move is coming up soon and I gotta conserve money as much as possible. If I recall, Knoxville is an 8-10 hour drive. I gotta save my 7 hour drives for heading to the nort country to do recon for my new home.

Would certainly love to see ya, again, tho. Hopefully, you make it up to the Detroit area before too long. Otherwise, you'll have to come alllll the way up to da UP, eh?”

“Ahh, so the shelter is full for SS but not for tara.”

“* laughs *

I remember laying between Tara and Buddha one night. Buddha was asleep.

John -- and don't even act like you wouldn't kick ME out of the shelter if Tara was coming on a trip with you.
last edited: 4/26/06 3:11:31 PM”

“I remember that, too. I don't think BB does, tho...and, to be honest, I'm surprised you do. LMAO!

That was a wild trip. Met some great TTers that weekend!”

“One word, Tara. Rohypnol. I completely remember, I was just powerless to stop you.”

“Was that TC2? Gosh that was a great trip.”

“That wasn't me, TD. It was the person sleeping on the other side of ya.....”

“TD, directions to Mountain Momma's:

Get off the Waterville Exit.

Turn right at bottom of ramp, go across River, turn left, follow road around past power plant, it will turn to gravel and MM is just ahead on the left. Can't miss it.”

“Thanks Chili!”

“you can get some cheap smokes at mtn momma's, and i guess i'd have to hike in from springer to rant and rave about stopping there again. *shrugs* I've never seen a ranger at that station either, no park truck nothing, have you guys?”

“One of my first two-week backpacks started in the Big Creek area. That is a very beautiful section of the park.”

“Greyhound Bus Drivers would let me off on the I-40 exit ramp so that I could hike in from there.

Please say hello at Mountain Mama's for me, "Paul from Florida." Thanks.
last edited: 4/27/06 10:04:44 AM”

“To all -- I found this article that Johnny Molloy did, and from the sound of Big Creek Campground as described -- It seems like it would be a great place! I'm thinking that hoofing it up to Davenport Shelter is a waste of time, (not to mention the hassle of finding a good place to park my truck) and I should save it for another trip.

Big Creek Campground: Cove Creek, NC
Top 10 Carolinas Tent Camping
By Johnny Molloy

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has a reputation, somewhat undeserved, of being overcrowded. Sure, some places can seem a bit peopled, but if you know the right places to go, your limited time in the park can be a relaxing getaway. Big Creek Campground is one of those places. It is the Smokies' smallest campground and its sole tent-only campground. This walk-in campground is set deep in the woods adjacent to the pure mountain waters of Big Creek-so deep, in fact, that when you come to the campground parking area you'll wonder where the campground is. For your information, it's between the campground parking area and noisy Big Creek.

A small footpath leaves the parking area and loops the 12 campsites in the shade of tall hardwoods. Since it's a walk-in campground, you must tote your camping supplies anywhere from 100 to 300 feet. But after that, you'll be hearing only the intonations of Big Creek and smelling the wildflowers, rather than hearing an RV engine and smelling exhaust fumes.

Five of the sites are directly creekside. Each site is spacious enough to spread your gear about. The new tent pads are elevated and well drained. A somewhat sparse understory reduces privacy, but the intimate walk-in setup magnifies an atmosphere of camaraderie among fellow campers not necessarily found in larger drive-in campgrounds.

The campground comfort station borders the parking area. It houses flush toilets and a large sink with a cold-water faucet. Two other water spigots are situated along the footpath loop. A recycling bin is located in the parking area. A pay phone is located 1 mile back down the gravel road at the Big Creek Ranger Station. You can acquire limited supplies a bit farther down Big Creek at Mountain Momma's Country Store, but try to bring in what you need. That way you can spend your time enjoying the park.

The Big Creek Trail starts at the campground and traces an old railroad grade from the logging era. Cool off the old-fashioned way in one of the many swimming holes that pool between the white rapids of Big Creek. Gaze up the sides of the valley; the rock bluffs you see have sheltered Smokies' wayfarers for thousands of years. Hike 3.3 miles up Big Creek and find the tumbling cascades of Mouse Creek Falls. Falls often occur where a feeder creek enters a main stream. The main stream valley erodes faster than the side stream valley, creating a hanging side canyon and then a waterfall. Continue on to Walnut Bottoms at 5 miles. This area has historically had more man-bear encounters than anywhere in the park. Keep food out of tents, and keep all food locked in your trunk when away from camp, not in the seat of your car. Crestmont Logging Company once had a camp here in the early 1900s, but now the area has returned to its former splendor. Three other trails splinter from Walnut Bottoms if you wish to explore more.

How about a strenuous hike through old-growth forest to a mountaintop capped in a Canadian-type forest with a 360-degree view from a fire tower? (NOTE: That's the ascent I'm doing) It's 6 miles up the Baxter Creek Trail, but your efforts will be amply rewarded. Start at the Big Creek picnic area just below the campground and go for it. Or take the Mount Sterling Trail from Mount Sterling Gap on nearby NC 284. It's only 3 miles to the tower this way. Just up from the Big Creek Ranger Station is the Chestnut Branch Trail. It leads 2 miles to the highest and wildest section of the entire Appalachian Trail, which traverses the Smoky Mountains. The historic fire tower at Mount Cammerer is only 4 miles farther. Or loop back on the Appalachian Trail to Davenport Gap and road-walk a short piece back to the campground.

Big Creek is wilderness tent camping at its best. The walk-in setting is your first step into the natural world of the Smokies. The rest of your adventure is limited only by your desire to explore the 500,000 acres in Big Creek Campground's backyard.”

“Plus I hear it has great trout fishing!”

“I wanted to hike that area this past winter but didn't get a round tuit. It'd be a great fall hike. You thinking of planning a trip TownDawg? I'd be interested.

Oh, I see it's this Memorial Day, can't make it.
last edited: 5/05/06 12:46:59 PM”

“I'll be up there this weekend, towndog, but couldn't join you guys until Sunday. But I also plan on spending Monday night in the park.

I'll try to get a spot at 37 for Sunday night and maybe catch you guys.”

“Karma Police -- I have an open reservation, so just come on. I'll show you as one of my four.”

“See my post on the other thread...I'm trying.”