Shasta Via the Hotlum-Bolum TR

“http://www.thebackpacker.com/pictures/pic/mvdpjagzdqi9c.php

As we drove up to Mt Shasta towards the trailhead we stopped in town by the Fifth Season to check out the view. The top of the mountain kept peeking in and out of the clouds. The weather was not too promising but we didn’t let that stop us. We drove on down Military Pass Road (rutted dirt track!)

We found our site for the evening and settled down to relax after the long drive. While sitting there a little white truck came up to the trailhead. I strolled over and ask the gentleman when he was going up as he appeared to be heading out immediately. He explained he was going to the summit that moment. :o| It was 8:00 at night and the sky was completely overcast and we could not even see the mountain. We all thought he was a little off. Nonetheless, off he went with a very small pack and said he would see us somewhere along the way the next day. Imagine our surprise when he was back before we had even stepped foot on the trail. He didn’t reach the summit due to white out conditions. He needed to get home to take care of the children while his partner was in yoga class. Imagine how many of you decide to climb Mt. Shasta overnight and then provide childcare in the morning??????

Off we went to High Camp at 11,000ft. When we arrived, it was snowing and windy but we had hopes still. The clouds moved in and out and we had awesome views enhanced by a never ending sunset. We had dinner and a rousing game of Liar’s Dice before toddling off to bed even though it was still light outside. It was still quite windy and no one in the big tent slept well. The fly for the tent made noise as it was a replacement and didn’t fit snuggly. And it was really warm in the tent so we had to sleep with the door all the way open.

The alarm went off a 4:00am but we were already awake by 3:30 anxious to get going. We ate breakfast quickly but not quickly enough as we didn’t step onto the snow in our crampons until 5:30am. Immediately, the climb went vertical and there was no easing into this hike. Our route was up the Hotlum-Bolum Glacier. I will also add, for those of you familiar with the route, that we did this without ropes. It seemed like the mountain just continued to go up, up, up and up some more. I got into a rhythm where I would take 20-25 steps before stopping to take a few breathes.

We got up to the area below the ‘Rabbit Ears’ and took a break and realized we were getting close to the goal. Around the corner we went. That is when my mind rebelled and said ‘no more’! As we started climbing across snow and ice covered rocks I decided I didn’t have the experience necessary or the required protection so I declared I was done. My friend explained that I could do this as I had the best gear. I complied and went about 40 more feet up and decided that was even too far. So I stopped @ 13,601ft (GPS). It was quite windy and the clouds were screaming around the sides and over the summit with the weather deteriorating as I sat there. I took my pack off to try to get some water out of my frozen bottle. Wham, a big ice ball hit me in the middle of the back. I was thinking at that moment how happy I was that I had a helmet on my head. Maybe I wasn’t in a safe place? I quickly put my pack back on to protect my back.

The group finally arrived back where I was waiting and off down the glacier we went. Of course, we detoured by the giant crevasse, to check it out. There were tracks where people had skied right along the edge. Crazy! I stayed as far away as possible. As we were coming down, I noticed a crack across the slope that wasn’t there on the way up. I almost pooped my panties and was thinking how badly I needed that blue bag. All the way down, I hurried as fast as possible and kept waiting for the telltale sound of the slope giving way. We got back to high camp and packed up our gear for the long slog back to the trailhead. We were pushed along down the trail by a very strong tailwind. Some places we were able to glissade and that was great.

Did I mention that while we were camped at the trailhead we were listening to music and ran the battery down in the car? We called AAA while we were still hiking out and they would only pay the fee out to the dirt road. We would need to pay a ‘premium’ for the time the driver was on the dirt road. Interestingly enough, the tow truck was at the trailhead within 30 minutes of the quoted time. I briefly considered getting a hold of my buddy MtnSteve to see if he could have Bob come get us; I would rather pay Bob than a stranger. But thankfully the driver was there and we were quickly along our way. We stopped in Shasta and ate at the Black Bear Diner and sipped on Shasta Ale! I arrived home @ 1:30 in the morning and still went to work the next day. I showed my depleted bag of Jelly Beans to a co-worker, (after I told him I didn’t make the summit0 and said that is what got me up the mountain. To which he said, ‘Almost’. Does that mean I don’t get to tell people I climbed Mt. Shasta?”

“I know it is a long post - and I see that people have viewed this - but no one is answering my question.”

“Don't be too hard on your self. That was your first experience with that type of exposure, it's not uncommon to get a little sketched. A grade II route, unprotected, can be a little unnerving. I know some rather extreme climbers who had sewing machine leg on much easier routes in their early days. I know if you had done any of the grade 1 routes you would have summited.

It's a matter of confidence and that takes some time to build up. You were quite right to stop when you felt unsafe, listening to your little voice will keep you alive up there. The confidence will come with time.

Some of the best times I have had in the mountains didn't involve summiting, not that we didn't try. I have learned more from failed attempts than summiting.

I would have run up there to get ya if I knew you needed a jump...any excuse to get into the woods ;-)


You can tell them you've climbed on Shasta, but didn't summit.... ;-)
last edited: 6/14/06 6:54:48 PM”

“I have never done anything like you are describing. To me it is a success. When are you going back?”

“To answer your question, sandyann, it depends. A novice would say they had "climbed" it, but a veteran would say they had "attempted" it.”

“sandyann - the only person who would ask that question is not a mountain climber. The accomplishment is undiminshed by not technically making it to the top. I am with mtsteve - listening to "that little voice" is what keeps people alive in those situations.

Big Congratulations on a huge triumph!

Oh yeah - great trip report, too! Thanks”

“Ok -so I am a novice so I get to say I climbed Shasta. Steve, I would have called you but I didn't have your number in my cell phone.

I am getting really excited about the trip to Rainier now. Even though I didn't technically summit the mountain I now have a much better understanding of what to expect and how I will perform. If I could have quieted the voice down I would have been able to summit physically. Next time...

I believe that personal trainer has paid off with great dividends. Now it is all about really working my quads and core to maintain my stamina and endurance. The difference between Shasta and Rainier is that High Camp on Rainier is still 4000 ft from the summit since it is at 10,200. We stayed at 11,000 feet at Shasta's high camp. So that will be a tougher slog.

Oh yea, the boots I bought for Rainier peformed very well. I had some heat on my heel from rubbing but the inner boot absorbed all the friction. I go no blisters and they held up well with the crampons and steep angle. I am using the Koflach Degre..expensive but worth every penny! I will post pictures on Webshots in a moment to share.

Steve - thanks for the support as always!”

“You can say you climbed on Shasta :-)
USA is quite right, a climber would say they attempted Shasta.

Getting comfortable with your crampons and having your self arrest technique wired, is critical. Gets lots of practice.

Have you done any rope training?

Can't wait to see the pics.
last edited: 6/14/06 9:38:24 PM”

“We are still planning a training hike on Mt Dana in July. Maybe I can convince them to take a rope for practice.

The Rainier trip has a one day seminar on rope travel, self arrest, etc. I know it isn't much but at least it will be in relatively safe areas.”

“There is another difference why Rainier will be more difficult - getting started at midnight and climbing in the dark. No sleeping in until the break of day. ;>)”

“haha...there was no sleeping in that tent. I was originally going to sleep in the one man. Somehow that changed and I ended up in the tent with two large men. It was hot, cramped, smelly, and noisy. All in all, I would say, that will probably be the easiest part of the trip for me to deal with.

I understand the Muir Hut will be very crowded. I will be taking a very good pair of earplugs so I can attempt an hour or so of sleep.”

“Wow, sounds like you really prepared yourself for such a trip.”

“I am not sure I was or am prepared but I believe I am on the right track.

Here is a link to the photos:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/551375448/2846202240044471782BefxRA”