Rainier Trip Report (Long)

“I will post photos on Webshots....

I arrived in Rainier National Park on Sunday, July 22nd and camped at Cougar Rock Campground. We had a leisurely day on Monday and did some hiking over the Nisqually River (?). Then it was back to the campground to get our training day packs ready. The weather was very hot. I had left California during the 100plus heat wave, only to arrive in Washington with similar temps. We were very happy as the weather was promising to hold out for us.

We got up in the morning only to have one of our climbers taken out early due to a back problem. Our party of nine was now reduced to seven men and one woman. We arrived at RMI and met our training guides, Mike and Andreas. Mike had just returned from two back to back trips to Denali and appeared to be incredibly fit.

We boarded the shuttle that would take us to the visitor center where the hike up to snow would begin. We were really excited to get started and the hike up to the training area didn’t seem bad at all. Once we arrived on the snow slopes we began learning the essentials of self arrest, team arrest, and rope travel while wearing crampons. The hardest part of the day for me was when they had me lay on my stomach going down hill and self arrest during that position while yelling, ‘Falling!’

I must confess that Mike and Andreas did very well with all of the different personalities in our group and I kind of felt bad for the two guys who were tossed in with us.

All in all it was a great day but the hike back to the shuttle with those plastic boots was torture. I ended up with a bruise on the back of my ankle. There was plenty of pain medicine back at the Bunkhouse. I checked into the Bunkhouse and went up the stairs to the second floor. I had it all to myself as everyone wanted downstairs where it was much cooler. That evening I repacked for the summit attempt and tried to get some sleep. As it would turn out I wouldn’t sleep again until Thursday night.

In the morning I checked out of the bunkhouse and met up with my group. We were group ‘C’. We all weighed our packs and mine was 39 pounds. Dang those plastic boots and their extra five pounds! Our guides were introduced as Mike (from the previous day), John, and Josh (I think). Peter Whitaker did all of the introductions and gave us the weather report which was very promising. Brent Okita was on one of the other summit teams leaving with us.

Back on the bus we went...only this time it was to make a summit attempt.
When the shuttle arrived we held back so the other teams wouldn’t get too bunched up. We began climbing immediately and I began to wonder if I would make it to Muir Hut. I asked Mike if anyone had ever bailed before reaching the hut and he said many people. Eventually we reached the snow field and began the serious climb. By this time, I put my plastic boots on and began to feel much better. I will confess though, that our team did not look very orderly as we climbed all over. John was breaking trail for four people while three others were making their own trail and I was in the middle listening to all the dirty jokes. We arrived at Muir Hut around 2 or 3 in the afternoon. We went in and grabbed our bunk in the sumptuous hut! Everyone seemed very tired except our group. We sat around and ate crackers and cheese. Brent asked everyone to meet in the bunkhouse where we would discuss the summit attempt, times, expectations, etc.

The order of the summit teams were announced and my group would be first to leave. When someone asked what time we would be awakened, he replied, ‘I have a good idea, but I am not going to tell you so you do not set any alarms’. Then he said we should eat our dinner and plan on being horizontal by 6:15pm! What????? Everyone set about eating dinner and trying to get to bed. I shared a dehydrated dinner with a friend and was in bed by the deadline.

Dinner would prove to be my undoing!

As I lay there, my stomach rumbled and I had a bad feeling. I am not sure anyone was sleeping as people kept getting up and down, and in and out to use the rest room facilities. A few people snored and I was quite envious. The lights went on at 11:15PM. Brent said it was time to get up. He passed out avalanche beacons and told us to put on our harnesses. We had one hour till departure and we needed to dress, eat, and hydrate. I ate, even as I was running to the facilities. I explained to Mike that I really was feeling very unsure of my stomach. I even wondered how many blue bags the guides carried for each climber.

Since our group was first, I was roped in right behind our lead guide, so I was the second person out of Muir. It was awesome going over Cathedral Gap and out onto the Ingraham Glacier. We stopped for a break and I felt better than when I had left camp. Mike then explained it would be another 90 minutes before we would get another break as we would begin the climb through Disappointment Cleaver. The climb was going well and I made it through there fine. Somehow though, the pace was too fast and Mike was beginning to drag me up the slope. I couldn’t seem to catch my breath and step up at the same time. By the time we made it to the next stop I asked Mike what he thought. He said he thought I could make it to the top, as I was a strong climber, but asked me to think if I would still be a strong member of the team and be able to arrest if someone fell. I made the extremely difficult decision to stop and go back down. If I went to the summit, I might not have been able to get back through the cleaver, which was the most difficult and dangerous aspect of the climb. I was sent back down with the others who were too sick to make it. Going down was harder than going up especially since none of us were 100%.

We made it back to the hut just as the first group summited (my rope team) at 6:15am. The climbers returned about 11:30 in the morning exhausted and covered in dirt. An hour later we glissaded and fairly ran down the snowfield and made it back to the shuttle in 3 hours. We went back to the base camp and had lots of beer and pizza with the guides as they passed out certificates.

All in all, it was a great adventure. I was personally extremely disappointed at not making the summit. My only consolation is that I made it through the crux of the climb. I am convinced I would have summited if I could have been on a slower rope team. The reason we were selected to go first was do to the overall conditioning of our team members and speed. I have climber higher and gone further so this was crushing. I have to remember though that I have to look at the whole experience and not just one aspect.

The training climbs, trips and the entire Rainier experience made it all worth while and I will go back. I would say that anyone who thinks Shasta is comparable should rethink that notion. It is a great training tool but not indicative of the overall demands. The guides were fantastic as were my team members. I fully plan on returning again and I will choose my food more carefully! A word of caution to anyone planning this climb. Rope travel with RMI guides is very quick. The breaks are regimented and few and far between. On summit day, there are a total of 6 breaks for an 11 hour (minimum) day. Three on the way up, one at the top, and two on the way back to the hut. They are fifteen minutes max. Learn your pressure breathing and rest step technique well before you go and Happy Climbing! We are planning the next big adventure.”

“I think it was me who said Shasta is no Rainier.

6 breaks! Not my style. Maybe 30.”

“Hreat adventure Sandyann. Thanks for posting.”

“As I was packing to leave and the new teams were getting ready to go on the shuttle, I was actually wishing that I was going again with them. I asked one of my friends if he felt the same and his response was 'no'. Maybe because he summited and I didn't?”

“We had Brent Okita as the senior guide on our trip this past weekend - he made it a really good experience eventhough I didn't get past Ingram Flats. I understand about not being able to keep up the pace and still breath.

Everyone that did summit on our team said it was very difficult and they were not smiling when they returned to Muir Camp. I was suprised at how few women were going up the mountain with RMI that day - out of 27 there were only 3 including me and none of us made it.”

“Our group left first too, but I don't think it was because we were the strongest group. My friend Brent and the other climber on the that we were roped in with did make it to the summit. Brent ended up on Brent Okita's rope and that worked out great for him.”

“Good job - it takes a lot to listen to your body and not your pride when it comes to reaching a summit. I can't imagine going up at such a brutal pace - a different team might have made all the difference, but it sounds like you had a great trip in any case. Awesome.
:)
(don't you hate that first stomach rumble...when you just know something's about to happen down there! lol)”

“Although I've never tried anything as involved or difficult as Rainier, I've learned how hard the "summit or not" decision is. FWIW, I think you made the right decision. No way I could have done a sustained climb with so few breaks.”

“You did good Sandyann and WingdingO.

I've climbed my share of mountains and even in my lean and mean days, I would have had problems with that pace.

Finding a good partner is the key. It's not easy, but it will make a huge difference. I'm pretty sure both of you could have made it if you were able to climb at your own pace. Amy and I weren't the fastest climbers, but our summit ratio was higher than some of my friends who were faster.

Keeping up at someone else's pace is a killer, not because your slower, but because it's not your rhythm.

Sandy, I'll give you a call when I get back. I'm off to do my professional victim thing for CARDA this weekend.
last edited: 8/04/06 8:18:11 AM”

“You guys got the views at sunrise, the cold air off the glaciers, the scary view down the crevasses, and the lots of good fun. You'll get to the summit next time. Way to go on a great Rainier adventure.”

“Yes, climbing at night prevents you from seeing that you are little more than ten feet from a yawning crevasse. But in the rosy light of dawn they are exposed for your viewing pleasure or fear.”

“Excellent report. Sorry you didn't make it but thats a tough mountain. I went with Cascade Alpine Guides last year, we had 3 guides, 3 clients. Great experience, had the mountain (east side) almost all to ourselves. We hiked 50', rested 10'. We started at 1:30, summited at 8. It was a 5000 gain from Schurman and one our teamates began to exibit signs of HACE about 12700. This is not to push CAG, but Rob runs a great service and the small groups lead to a nice, nonrushed experience. Plus he goes during week as to avoid weekend crowds.

Be in good shape but altitude is funny. Even people in great shape can get AMS.

I echo sentiments above. This is a big mountain, badness happens.”

“Good call Sandyann, the mountain will still be there when you return.

Making wise decisions is part of making sure that you are able to return.

Glad you found time to have fun in all that”

“Sandyann, what ws your training regimen for the climb?”

“Precision - Following is a summary. You should be aware that I was physically conditioned enough to make the climb - if only I hadn't become ill during the climb due to intestinal problems.

Numerous Backpacking trips in the Sierra carrying a pack well into the 40lb range over 10,000ft.

Long distance day hikes of over twenty miles carrying a pack

Climbing on Shasta on North Side via Hotlum Bolum Glaciers

Cardio training in gym 3 days a week from January to July

Resistance training with personal trainer twice a week from May through July (this training included hundreds of squats using Smith machine and heavy weights and hundreds of lunges - some with weight and some without. Additionl core training was included.

I am at a loss to determine what I could have done different physically.”

“A job well done. The way I look at it, each summit attempt is a learning experience. Take from it the wonderful views and accomplishments that are in increments. I have made 3 attempts on Mt. Elbert (long story...they were all in November). Each time I learn something different. Let's see what this year brings.

The mountain will still be there next time you are ready. (unless it blows its top)
last edited: 8/05/06 8:18:24 AM”

“I will have to see if I can get a friend to do this with me next time or if I will go it alone with RMI.

Interesting about the 'blows its top' comment. While we where up there on the mountain, we could see Mt. St. Helens in the distance with a plume of smoke coming off the top. That was an interesting viewpoint.”

“Finally got a chance to read your report. Congratulations to both of you, Sandyann and Wingding, for making the effort, doing the training, and for respecting the inner voice that tells you it's time to stop.

I wonder why RMI feels it is necessary to move at such a rapid pace.”

“Wannabp - RMI moves the guided groups along at a good pace because they are trying to get the group up to the summit and back down before it gets warm. Once the day warms up the dangers of icefall and avalanches increase. The warmer the weather, the earlier they start too. They still get 70 percent of their clients to the top even at the pace they keep. That's a higher success percentage than unguided groups.

I am revising my training so that I can go at a steady pace for longer stretches and I'll be spending more time in the snow this winter than I did last winter.”

“Thanks for the explanation. Good luck on your training.”

“MY friends were telling me that on the way down they were postholing pretty badly; and that was after summiting at 6:30 am. So imagine if you had summited at 10:00 or 11:00am.

Oh yeah, I am bringing this back around because my sister, Donna, in the Netherlands, wanted to read the report about her crazy sister.
last edited: 8/24/06 11:25:02 PM”

“Hey Donna - you sister is awesome!!!”

“Thanks pepperdog! She tells me that all the time...I guess I might have to start listening to her.”