Grand Canyon info

“Hey guys....I know some of you have done extensive backpacking trips in the Grand Canyon, so I was just wanting some feedback as to the best routes were for a 3-5 day backpack. I am thinking of going in the late spring, but also wasnt sure if there was a specific time of year that was best to go.

Crash Bang, didnt you go there last year???”

“start at the top, work your way down. stop when you get to the colorado river

late winter to late spring is probably best time of year to go. thats when its at its wettest, and the temps arent miserable

check the thread "cactus magnet and beefcake" for full report

we hiked down bright angel, west on tonto, and out on hermit. i would not suggest doing this route in reverse, as hermit is horribly rugged and steep. worse than anything on the AT, with possible exception of the Whites

kaibab.org is a great site with lots of trail descriptions”

“Thanks! Someone told me of a really awesome waterfall to go to...know anything about that?”

“Havasu Falls ?

I wanna hike to that one...”

“Well, Grandview isn't too steep and there's water when you get near the Tonto. From there to the river via the Escalante Route is... interesting. South Kaibab is shorter --- but steeper of course (lost a couple of toenails on that one! *G*). Haven't done Hermit, but I hear it's pretty rough, as CB says. No problems with Bright Angel (other than traffic)... multiple water sources on that route along with camping at Indian Gardens. There's COLD BEER at Phantom Ranch (Wooo Hooo!)

Reservations are a must.


Mary Phyl is a local expert, tho' I haven't seen her around here lately (I haven't seen ME around here lately either... ha!). Another good source is a sometime poster over on the Dark Side... 'Hnak' (correct spelling, I swear. (aka Hank)). He's in the area also, is a Geology nut and also has done SAR in the Canyon.

I've been there twice: late August and over New Years. In August it was 85 on South Rim and 107 at Phantom Ranch. On Jan 1st it was 40 on the Rim (with 'some' ice) and 72 at the river... so I've seen the extremes.

Late Spring sounds good!! *G*”

“Yes, MDS, I believe that is the one :)

So the other option is to go in the Fall....what do yall think of that?”

“Oh, and they have the 'duffle service' where you can send your pack down to Phantom Ranch (or back up to the Rim) by mule... 50 lbs for $50 bucks, one-way.”

“Thunder River/Deer Creek from the north rim is a good one. Doing it in five days makes it a bit more leisurely but it can be done in less.

I'm thinking about doing it again this year.”

“we didn't see any waterfalls on our last trip”

“I've heard really good things about Havasu Falls. :) But, I believe you need approval to be on that land of the Havasupai Indians. As many people that go, I don't think it's difficult to get.

I agree with Crash. Going down Hermit is rough on your knees. I did it last Oct.”

“Going down Hermit is tough, but it's a great hike. Take it easy and you'll do fine. Be sure to tie your boots to keep your toes from mashing in the tip of your boots. If you are thinking about using the mules to carry your pack, make sure you arrange ahead to have the mules take your pack down and up for you as they don't usually have extra mules available at the last minute (even for an injury - but.. that's another story!). Havasu is a must see... There are Navaho Falls and Mooney Falls that are pretty cool too when you go to Havasu. Hnak (yes.. correct spelling!) and I walked down to Havasu by moonlight because it was too hot to hike during the day. Make sure you fax in your permit 4 months ahead or you'll have little luck getting a permit. I've been there in the late spring and fall both. Tank tops on the bottom and 6 inches of snow on the top on the same day! Either fall or spring is great! It's the canyon! It's all good!
last edited: 1/11/07 9:44:23 PM”

“Embear,
I have done a couple of hikes in GC.
The South Kaibab, Bright Angle Loop in May of 2004. Also the Hermit, Tonto, Bright Angle Loop In June of 2005. Best advise I can give is to make sure you know where your next water source is when hiking in the Grand Canyon.
Here are some pictures.
http://travel.webshots.com/album/380176310nrnESk”

“Yep, that Hnak guy gets around... ;^ )”

“Another route would be from the North Rim, down the North Kaibab trail to Cottonwood Camp one night and 2nd day down to Bright Angel Camp at Phantom Ranch and the Colorado. You could retrace your route or for a few more days go out by the South Kaibab trail with a overnight at Indian Gardens. My son and I did this route in October and the temps were 47 degrees at the North Rim and 81 degrees at Cottonwood later that 1st day. Enjoy and take lots of photos.”

“Thanks so much guys! I knew I could count on yall to give me the scoop!!! This is just in the very beginning stages of planning, so if I have to get a permit that early, I may be looking at a Fall trip. Summer is prolly too hot, and I'm taking a 2 week camping/bpacking trip up the west coast anyways. :D”

“You better stop in to say hello!!!”

“Would it be worth a day of driving there and a day of driving back to do 3 days in the Grand Canyon?”

“Absolutely! Make sure you have a permit before you drive all the way there. And.. don't forget the trip report (again)..”

“So, do we have to come up the same trail we go down? Or are there different return options? I suppose I should borrow maps from my friend.”

“Check out these sites. Lots of information. Some are lucky enough to get a permit by just walking up to the permit office. I wouldn't count on it. I fax in my permit request 4 months in advance.

http://www.kaibab.org/bc/gc_trail.htm

http://www.nps.gov/grca/index.htm
last edited: 1/24/07 10:58:08 AM”

“Thanks for the links!

Do you think we could do the Boucher Trail in that timeframe?
last edited: 1/24/07 11:48:55 AM”

“I really like the Kaibab website. Thanks for the link.”

“Anybody? We might be able to stretch it to 4 days at the Canyon.”

“John, when in March are you going?”

“Looks like we might be there the 11-14.

You thinking of going?”

“hmm, well it might be a possibility, since i am so close. Is it just gonna be you and Danielle? My bf and I have been trying to get out there for a backpack, so this might be a good time!”

“So far just us 2. We are looking at doing 1 day in, 1-2 days exploring and 1 day out. We are about 70-80% sure we are going.”

“So our first request for campsites is 3 nights at the Angel Bright Campground. If we can't get that then we are coming down the Hermit Trail and coming up Angel Bright.

How rough is it coming down the Hermit Trail?”

“bring extra knees”

“it's not maintained. there are many places where boulders cover the trail. crash is right on. i was glad we were hiking UP it rather than DOWN it, that's for sure.”

“and extra toenails?”

“"bring extra knees" ~ crash bang

No problems with toe nails here, but I could have used an extra pair of knees. Make sure you have trekking poles. My poles were a life saver.

I kissed the trail junction sign at the bottom of Hermit.”

“lucky sign”

“So, its going to be rough going down it than?”

“i think that's what everyone is saying...

a lot depends on you.”

“It's completely doable. Just make sure to pack lots of ibuprofen and take a knee brace or two along. My knees switched back and forth on which would hurt, and at times, they hurt at the same time.

It may depend on the person too. I tend to have weak knees anyway. I'm a flatlander and not use to pounding that area of my knees for hours on end.

You'll forget all about it when the pain wears off a week after the hike. ;)”

“How about exposure? I tend to have a fear of heights at time. Is this going to be a serious issue for me on this trail?

I consider myself a 7 on a scale of 10 for hiking strength.”

“"lucky sign"

Yeah, well, it probably would have gotten more than just a kiss if I had been alone. :p”

“"How about exposure? I tend to have a fear of heights at time. Is this going to be a serious issue for me on this trail?"

There is some exposure. Especially at one area where there was a rock slide that took out the trail. There is actually a bit of exposure on the Tonto as well, if you were wondering.

I have a small fear of heights, but didn't have a problem with the trail except in the rock slide area.”

“Trekking poles and knee braces helped me a lot going down the Hermit. MsDoolittle is right about the exposure in that one rock slide that took out the trail. It is very doable, however if you have a problem with fear of heights and having your rear end hanging over the edge of it all, you may want to hand line your pack.
When are you going, I would not want to do the Hermit if there was ice on the trail.
last edited: 2/05/07 6:14:00 PM”

“We'll be there the second week of March. We are going to bring in-step crampons to be sure.”

“Good idea. The girl I went with last Oct hiked out Hermit the year before. They had shut Hermit down to incoming (going into the Canyon) hikers because the South Rim was getting hit hard with a blizzard and Hermit had become so hazardous.”

“when i hiked out on that trail there were heavy winds and driving snow. we just avoided a snowstorm. i would say that the route is very exposed. now water. there are a few places where you could take a fall but i didn't see anyplace where i would have roped in. it's always a good idea to rope up if you even think you might be subject to a fall but i don't recall any point (even at the rockslide) where i felt this way. the driving wind almost knocked me on my butt a few times and the snow was blinding. i didn't need them but i wouldn't risk hiking this trail without instep crampons at hand. i can see that trail getting icy and dangerous very fast.”

“Thanks for all the help. I really am hoping we get the campsites at Bright Angel instead of this route.”

“All permit requests were denied. So I guess we'll day hike and try to get a last minute permit.”

“anyone eaten at phantom ranch? how was it?”

“adventurist: i lost track of the thread. where were you trying to camp?”

“Crash,
I had 2 meals there. They were served family style and are all you can eat. For supper I had the hikers stew, it is very good. Comes with corn bread, chocolate cake, and several choices for drinks. Breakfast was eggs, bacon, (french toast if I remember right), fruit, and drinks. You need to reserve meals in advance. They also offer a steak supper and a brown bag lunch.
Price is high but the food is excellent.”

“I was trying to stay the Bright Angel Campground with a backup plan for a loop starting down the Hermit Trail. Both plans were denied.

Can you rent the cabins at the Phantom Ranch even if you aren't going down on a buro?”

“I don't know if you can rent the cabins, unless you are riding the mules or doing a river rafting trip.
I stayed in a male dorm in May of 2004.
10 bunks in a room with shower and air conditioned, they book up quick and can only be reserved by calling.
OK I found the site with Phantom info, here it is.
http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/phantom-ranch-704.html
Hope this helps you, good luck booking the dorms.
http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/phantom-ranch-427.html
last edited: 2/11/07 11:02:23 PM”