Tentative Peak-Bagging Trip next Summer

“sometimes anchors are hard to find. stoppers are a huge help here because you can make an anchor, but even then you can't always find good placement or you could run out of stoppers. webbing is also super handy for making anchors and it's cheap to leave behind. i would have no issues rapping down other than i would insist on a belay from for anyone that had never rappelled before -and- a friction backup or shunt above the decender. belt and suspenders.

i would bet that there are probably a lot of people that rap down that thing and that there are a lot of anchors and left-behind hardware.”

“wheeeeeeeeeeeeeee fun”

“cool!”

“Ok, lets re-visit the list of required gear. Am I going to need to start buying climbing equipment? I don't have any and have no real climbing experience, but I'm definately game. Jim if y'all are really serious about needing harnesses etc. maybe I could join you for a weekend in the gorge before the weather gets nasty and you could at least get me started down this new road of self destruction.

Crash, I know this isn't the most remote of places. We're not going to view something untouched my other humans, but it is the extreme minority that have been here, and this is just a starting point for me. I gotta start somewhere right? Each day it becomes more obvious that I need to do some reading though as you are all more familiar with the routes etc than I am so far.”

“I got plenty of gear also, I doubt that you will fine much gear left behind from others. Possible, but doubtfull.”

“Hey Roam, Is that some of your pics?”

“mg, you dont need to bring any technical equipment. jimmy san is bringing his as a precaution, however, its fully possible to do all these routes without. just bring a climbing helmet”

“Just one thing to think about, I really know you guys are having fun with your new found sport of climbing, believe me I do know. Not everybody is really able to jump off the side of a remote mountain edge, in fact its the most dangerous part of climbing, so if you really are serious about doing this, everybody should know that its a committment that may include serious problems. Everybody should be able to rappel alone and understand the use of the gear. Never can tell who will need help, accidents happen to the best climbers.”

“There is no real 'need' to rapell from Capitol, you can scramble down the same way you got up. A rapell might not even deposit you in the best position to get back to the trailhead. I don't know the answer to that question.

MG - that is not my pic - i copied the link from the Capitol page at summitpost. You can navigate to the Capitol page on that site from the pic. There is a LOT of info there.

You don't need any technical gear (helmet would be nice) to get to the top of Capitol. You just need a healthy helping of nerve to cross the short knife edge as it is fairly exposed, but a lot of fun once you convince yourself to go for it. A fall would be painful indeed and perhaps (but not necessarily) deadly.

Have fun!”

“I'm cool with that. Thanks, Crash and Roam. If you really decide to repel, I'm willing, I just need to know what I have to have before I show up in CO with not enough equip. to do what we set out to do. Know what I mean? It ain't a lack of balls, just gear and the knowledge of it's use. Thanks for the link Roam. I'll be spending a lot of time there in the near future.”

“im not planning on rapelling down. i doubt dorky san will, either. he was just wishful thinking outloud”

“just a note - rock climbing is dangerous - 4th class scrambling on very exposed terrain is probably more dangerous than technical climbing.

Rapelling is the most dangerous thing climbers do.”

“There is a route in Yosemite called the Royal Arches, and on part of the route there is a very blank section of near vertical wall between two other sections that are less vertical and more broken up. There used to be a log fallen across the super exposed part, and the question was to walk across the log, or crawl. The log was big, so the walk was easy, but the exposure was like 1000 feet at least, straight down.

I didn't just crawl, I did the bear hug, and got splinters from my chin to my knees. Now I hear the log is gone, so that section would be a scary beech.
last edited: 8/30/07 3:47:17 PM”

“WHA?! Nobody said anything about doing something dangerous!




LOL! JK! Makes sense to me. All that loose rock on a steep incline. Lots of room for an accident.

These other guys know you Roam, but if you don't mind me asking, you sound like you have at least some experience. What have you done so far?”

“not nearly as much as a lot of people - fair amount of 3rd/4th class scrambles, mostly on downclimb or descent from technical climbing routes. I got into technical rock climbing this summer - it's a major blast.

I've done 3 or 4 fourteeners and a handfull of other 'big' mtns - some in winter.

The big thing is to know your comfort zone and if you want to push that zone out - do it slowly.

I've turned around on some scrambles when it got a little too spicy for my taste. Then, i've gone back later and it felt better, so I kept going.”

“Good to know you weren't too stupid/proud to turn around. Also good to know you and Toejam have some experience with big mountains.
I am clearly the least experienced, but am very willing to learn.”

“this would be a great place to parajump”

“I see paragliders with some degree of regularity - they launch from the high foothills and land at Boulder Resevoir just across the highway from my office.

crazy feckers.”

“Jimmysan, you may want to see if you're getting some radiation from spending such great amounts of time at your computer. I think it may be affecting you rational thought processes dude. Base jumping @14000?!”

“You'll do fine, greenie.”

“yeah - you'll be fine. It'll be FUN.

just bring your spare lungs!

:)”

“Thanks fellers.

I just checked on air fare to see what kinda deals I get. Turns out that Frontier flies non-stop IND - DEN and I can non-rev for $25 each way plus taxand if they're full I can get on American for about $120 round trip! How freakin sweet is that?! Unfortunately I can't extend this to Crash or Jim unless they marry me. So come on you sexy men, fight over me! LOL!

Speaking of lungs, we just had a health fair at work and I had my lung capacity tested for the first time ever. Total capacity is 7.1 liters, and they are flowing in the "excelent" range. Good to know. Now if only I could just make it from my desk to the car with out having to catch my breath each day I'd be golden... (JK)”

“dude - you should come out here a couple of times twixt now and then at those rates.”

“I know. It aint the travelin that holds me back, it's my family. I'm a single dad of 3 little girls, and finding a babysitter for 4 or 5 days is pretty rough. If not for that it'd be ON, man. Don't get me wrong though, them girlies are awesome. I think we're going hiking this weekend in fact.”

“i hear ya man, i'm in a similar boat, but mine are 13 and 15 now. (girl/boy respectively)

Bring 'em with ya! The more the merrier!”

“We just might do that sometime. Mine are 4, 6, & 9. Pretty small for real miles on the trail, but they have camped before, and have the basic warmer weather gear.”

“have we nailed down dates to the point where we can book airfair?”

“not that I know of. I didn't book anything, I was just checking on what is avail to me for being an airline employee. Those prices wont change as they are flat rate agreements between multiple carriers.”

“ok, just checking. i'll want to book enough in advance to get a decent rate since, while I think you are nice, you just aren't my type. besides i have to ask for the specific dates off from work.”

“Damn, and I was planning on bringing my big 2 mantent, and the bags that zip together... A little of your wine, by the fire light, and who knows why might come up...

LMAO!”

“well, next summer is a long ways away. anything can happen between now and then.”

“its a little early to set the dates in stone now, since the trip is almost a year away, but how far in advance does anyone need? 4- 6 months ok?”

“yeah, that is fine.”

“That's fine with me. Just so I can bid my vacation time, and still have time to beg for a trade incase someone outbids me.”

“Any way I might get in on the action?”

“All you gotta do is sign up. If you fall behind the bears will the care of you.”

“oops
last edited: 9/01/07 8:01:28 AM”

“i just saw your post, mg, about gear. i don't think any special gear will be required other than i would recommend a helmet. i have a petzl helmet and it's very comfortable, but i have never owned anything else. i would suggest a hard helmet, not one with a foam core. the foam one will be lighter, but the hard helmet will last longer. you don't need a harness unless you want to tie into protection at the knife edge. i don't think special boots or anything would be required either, but you have to be sure they are well broken in for the trip and you are comfortable climbing in them (as in walking up a steep hill). i would not buy new boots and plan to break them in on this trip. i guess i would suggest -perhaps- an ice axe but i wouldn't say it's required. a good daypack that has a waist and sterum strap would probably be nice. i would strongly suggest a good waterproof/breathable shell and a layering system... always a good thing. you'll want a way to stay dry and regulate your temprature as you climb. perhaps bring some supplies you might not otherwise carry like ankle wrap, etc. i carry some of this stuff on my trips to the Grand Canyon but nowhere else. i'll be bringing some six-point instep crampons (aluminum). they are very light and if you need them you will be glad you have them, although i doubt i'll need them. sunglesses perhaps, sunscreen, a hat that you can wear under your helmet. i don't know, i am thinking out loud to perhaps fire off some conversation.

i was not serious about rapping off of capital peak, although i have read logs of people that have done this and it sounds like fun. frankly, i don't mind lugging a rope good for really simple protection but a rope good for rapping would be something i wouldn't want to lug unless i specifically WANTED to rap as part of the trip.

davey, sorry about the troll business. i don't hang out here enough to follow some of the threads and my troll radar is weak at best. i was just fooling around but i recognize my posts were less than friendly. i look forward to hanging out with you and getting you know you better.

THAT SAID... i would love to hang with you for a day of climbing in RRG. it probably wouldn't benifit you for this trip but it would be a LOT of fun. we could meet at left flank and i bet by the end of the day i could have up up mr bungle (5.8+) SAFELY. :)

... "have you up mr bungle"... that doesn't sound very good, does it?”

“CB & others of the WT trip,
If we're climbing these mountains in August and then you're going on the Wonderland trail round about with me, is there anything I can do to facilitate your attendance on the WT - what's the best schedule in August for you?


Jimmy San, what mm rope are you going to bring?
My previous post was about joining the trip. For some reason it was marked as a private trip. Maybe I wasn't logged in.
last edited: 9/01/07 10:54:14 AM”

“If it's a private trip, how did I get in?”

“I had to log in with a pass word I got from Crash.


Ok, for new gear I will be buying:
Mountaineering boots (as I only have trail runners at this moment)

Hardshell jacket

helmet

warmer bag - just because my current bag sucks ass and I need a new one

Good thing the airfare is cheap cuz I'm gonna be really forkin it out for this one. Also good that it is so far off.

Should I really get: crampons, ice axe, climbing harness, sundry climbing hardware, prolly more stuff that I don't know enough to know that I don't know I need.

BTW If anyone here has some extra of this stuff that they want to sell I may be interested. I ain't above used gear as long as it is still good and safe gear. I know backpacking, but this is a whole new realm for me. That said, my pack is a climbing/mountaineering pack. Possibly the only good news for me.”

“np, I will be at the Red climbing during the October Fest. Also going out tomorrow afternoon and overnight and then again Monday.”

“Well, shoot Davey, I may owe you an appology too. My memory aint what it was so I'm not sure if it was you or CoreyB, but if I gave you a rash o' shlt in the past it's cuz I really thought you were a troll looking for trouble. The last thing I want is any hard feelings on a trip like this. So, if I was a dlck before I'm sorry. If I wasn't then never mind.”

“the shell and sleeping bag are a good idea. i would hold off on the rest of the stuff unless you just want it. i get like that... i don't _need_ something, i just want it.”

“precision: 8mm”

“The only shoes I have are Trail Runners though, JS. Low top tennis shoes basicly. Ya, they are great hiking in, and well broken in, and are pretty sticky on bare rock (climbed courthouse rock in them) but are definately not made for cold weather, or crampons, or ice and all that.

The bag is a must, and the shell has been a long time coming, cuz it's needed anyway, I have some super heavy insulated hunting boots, Cabela's brand, and look much like a pair of Rockies that I used to have, but they really arent for this stuff. I think I'd feel better with Mountaineering boots. Perhaps it's an inferiority complex...
I don't want to find out Crash's boots are bigger than mine. I definately don't want to have the smallest boots out of any one on the trip. LOL!”

“The plan with the boots is to buy them soon, and break them in backpacking this winter/spring.”

“nobody owe's me anything, my skin is tough from years of abuse,lol. it is what it is. lol, some people can dish it out, but can't seem to take when its there turn,lol, hint hint”

“Fair enough Davey. I'll be nice from now on though, since I know you aren't just trying to stir stuff up. (There really is a lot of that crap around here)I still think I seriously had you confused with that CoreyB feller. Oh well, over and done.

Do you have much Mtn. experience? You sound like you are a climber.”