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The Club is Now Open
Who climbs?

Where do you climb?

I've gotten started with earnest this summer and I'm hooked.

Climbing top rope and sport routes so far, but next weekend I'm planning to go with a guy and do a multi-pitch trad route in Estes Park - really looking forward to that.

I've even gotten my kids into it (built in belay slave ya know), just kiddin - my daughter can usually outclimb me at the gym and my son is pretty evenly matched.

Today we went (the boy and I) to North Table Mountain in Golden - just above the Coors Plant and climbed Killian's Dead - a cool little 5.6 crack route - makes a good primer for crack and we laughed about saying "yeah, we like crack"... hahahah

Then we moved to a 5.8 route called "Stemming Wide" or "Big Dihedral" depending on the source - I felt like it was more 5.9+ - there's some really tough lieback moves to get over a small roof that neither of us could really get worked out before we pumped. But the beginning was real cool, toejams in a crack over a bulge.

We're just beginners but we have a lot of fun with it. We plan to go back to the crag Wed night after work - rocks to live so close... thats the next chance we'll get.

Climb on....
Roam Around
3:21:04 PM
6/24/07

Have been trying indoor climbing once and loved it. Loved the combination of movement, agility and balance. Unfortunately couldn't find a climbing partner. So that was it then.
Euro Hike
3:30:18 PM
6/24/07

How close are you to the Alps?

I'm dying to improve so I'll feel confident on some alpine stuff - that's my goal for next summer.
Roam Around
3:32:52 PM
6/24/07

I wish Roam. I have a huge bag of climbing and rappeling gear. My intent when my buddy gave it all to me was to build an ascend/rappel setup with a tyrolean traverse across my back yard. Never got around to it....You got me thinking though.
birch
3:51:19 PM
6/24/07

that'd be tons o fun! just don't tell Sass that I put you up to it!

LOL
Roam Around
3:53:15 PM
6/24/07

Well, I only need to look out of my kitchen window. It's a 50 minutes drive to get from my house to the nearest 'alpine' mountains, that would requiere technical climbing.

Do you know the infamouse Eiger? Eiger northface and the White Spider? The White Spider is a treacherous passage in the Eigers northface. Jon Krakauer writes about it and his futile attempt on the Eiger.
That's 50 minutes from my place.
Euro Hike
3:54:27 PM
6/24/07

OMG! You live in heaven!

Oh yeah - I know about the Eiger, I read "The White Spider" by Harrar, the first ascensionist quite some time ago and have been thinking of re-reading.

Joe Simpson wrote a book about it as well which the title escapes me at the moment. The Eiger is one of those mountains that I'd like to just go stare at for a bit - dare to climb on it...... maybe..... someday.... For now though I'll have to be content with the American Rockies. If they don't kill me I might try Europe or the Himalaya. We shall see.
Roam Around
4:00:12 PM
6/24/07

well, Lyra and I just got home from Ralph Stover State Park, where we were hanging out with Crazypace, Pennsy and Greenmonkee and doing some climbing. I did the the practice climb 3 times, a 5.3 and I did my first belay. Pennsy lead climbed left Ivy before we left. Crazypace left early too. Greenmonkee and Pennsy were going to move onto some more technical stuff.

We even got a bag night out of it.. mucho fun!

This was my second rock climb since April (ever), so I guess I am a member.
EarthNsky
4:16:24 PM
6/24/07

Welcome to the madness! Its quite addicting.

It also combines very nicely with backpacking... does tend to make the pack a bit heavier though.
Roam Around
4:20:49 PM
6/24/07

Too bad I can't post pictures on TT. Somehow the Java is screwed up.
I just emailed you a picture of me, Eiger and the White Spider.
Euro Hike
4:23:48 PM
6/24/07

http://thebackpacker.com/trips/trip/1302.php

I climb...
last edited: 6/24/07 4:38:15 PM
Jimmy san
4:37:23 PM
6/24/07

next time out i swear i'll remember my camera. gotta figger out how to get pics while holding the belay .... i need a third person on site with me, I'll have to make the girlchild go as well :) she slept in this morning.
Roam Around
9:26:44 PM
6/24/07

they have an "action cam" for sale at mountaingear ... strap it on your hat and with a big memory card will shoot a ton of video...
Jimmy san
9:41:25 PM
6/24/07

I got my first taste of climbing in RRG a couple weeks ago, and let me say, This is something I could seriously get into. What we did was probably not even mentionable for you folks but I had a lot of fun. We didn't have any technical gear at all, just multiple trips up a crack with half full packs. Just how much does it cost to get started with the technical stuff? What type of gear should I be looking at, oh ya and what about the whole helmet thing? My family got all bent out of shape when they saw my pics and said I should have had a helmet on, but I told them if you fall a couple hundred feet onto jagged rocks, a helmet would be about as useful as an umbrella when jumping from an airplane. What do you folks think?
meangreen
9:41:38 PM
6/24/07

Jim, there is some kind of joke in there about a camera and head, I just can't quite put it together...
meangreen
9:43:29 PM
6/24/07

I've never been into rock climbing much before, but am starting to get excited about it after my rock climbing NOLS section, thought it was pretty killer. I don't know how much I'll get involved, but i'm sure i'll do a bit of climbing from now on.

Pics: http://travel.webshots.com/album/559545924vztykQ
simer190
10:12:28 PM
6/24/07

the most important thing you can get when you are just starting is experience with people that really know how to climb so you can be safe. hang out and gain experience. most climbers are really cool with newbies and you can learn a lot from them. then you can learn what works for you and the gear will come over time.

generally everyone purchase a harness, climbing shoes, a locking 'biner, some sort of belay device, and a chalk bag. i recommend a quick-dry shirt and a pair of "climbing pants" or shorts... they have a gusseted crotch that makes them comfy to climb in when a harness is worn over them.

you can blow a lot of cash on this stuff so look before you leap, esp with shoes. always look for closeouts or specials because the stuff tends to get cut really deep when it goes on sale.
last edited: 6/24/07 10:31:38 PM
Jimmy san
10:30:38 PM
6/24/07

Thanks Jim. What neighborhood for middle of the road gear that you listed above would you expect to pay? I'm totally clueless about this.
meangreen
10:42:01 PM
6/24/07

i dunno... let me guess.

* 30 bucks for a locking 'biner and atc belay device... you don't need these if you aren't going to belay or if you are in a group where someone already has them.

* 20 bucks for a chalk bag with chalk (a nice one)

* 50 bucks for a nice harness (black diamond momentum or similar) but these go on sale all the time.

so $70-$100 for the basic stuff perhaps... cheaper if you look for sales.

...then shoes. on sale you can get a decent pair for around 50-75 bucks. they run higher than that (150+). it really depends on the kind of shoe you want. you gotta shop around and try on some at a place like rei... see what you like.

climbing shoes are a must... i mean you can climb in your sneakers and all but the difference between street shoes and climbing shoes is dramatic.

a helmet is a PC thing to have although i hardly ever see people climbing in them. i don't wear one at the gym but i will outside. a good helmet can be 50-100 bucks depending on brand. i think my petzl was like 90 bucks. bottom line is that i am not that good that i can't see my whacking myself in the head. if i would wear a helmet while cycling (and i do) then why wouldn't i wear one climbing?
Jimmy san
10:54:00 PM
6/24/07

meangreen, the helmet is more about loose rock and falling equipment above you. seriously, WEAR A HELMET! it only takes a small rock to do some serious damage to your head.

and yes, i can't backpack until next year, BUT I CAN STILL ROCKCLIMB!!!
Pamela
11:53:46 PM
6/24/07

Thanks Jim. You know I really do appreciate you letting me pick your brain on this stuff. So if you watch the sales and what not you can get a good quality (read - "safe") starter assortment of climbing gear for around $300. That doesn't sound too bad. Hell, I spent more on my BP'ing gear when I got started.
meangreen
11:55:36 PM
6/24/07

now if you add in my ropes, quickdraws, rope bags, cams, a few other pieces of prot, etc well it comes to a bit more... haha! at least i am down to one pair of shoes.
Jimmy san
12:35:44 AM
6/25/07

btw, most gear that is sold is pretty safe... it's the way that it is used (or abused) that can be unsafe. i have found that the really good brands (mammut, black diamond, petzl, camp, metolius, omega pacific, beal, bluewater, pmi, trango, five ten, grivel, la sportiva, mad rock, etc, etc) are all outstanding. some make specific things really well (bluewater and pmi ropes, for example) and others make almost everything really good (mammut, petzl, black diamond, etc). bottom line is that it is hard to go wrong with such a great lineup of vendors to choose from.
Jimmy san
12:53:21 AM
6/25/07

You're a trip Jim! DOWN to one pair. LOL!

(I laugh because I know it's true)
meangreen
12:53:47 AM
6/25/07

well i had a "starter" pair... rei had them on the shelf for 19 bucks marked down from 60. i got them and they were ok but i found a pair liked a lot more... 120 bucks... but i love my shoes now.

if you wear a size 13 i can hook you up. i wear size 11 and they are actually a fair fit... a little large but hey, they were a starter pair. i also have a spare bd harness as well. size-large. you are scrawny so i don't know about that.

i will say as far as size of climbing shoes go... your regular shoe size is a STARTING POINT. climbing shoe sizes are a mystery to me and the only way to know for sure is to try them on. however... don't get a pair of shoes that are so painful you can't walk around in them. i mean don't get me wrong... when they fit they will be the most uncomfortable shoes you ever wore... but they won't be agony on your feet... also, leather upper shoes will strech, some say a full size. it's true, they do. after 10 pitches or so they conform to your foot and actually work pretty well. so my point is that sizing shoes is more an art than a science and what works for you really is what works best.
Jimmy san
1:06:18 AM
6/25/07

Roam, He's the one who won't put it up. I'm the one who would be using it most (his arthritis doesn't like climbing). I'd love to be able to practice ascending in the back yard! That's the hardest part for me.
Birch and I have a gym that allows us to climb for free, but rarely do we go anymore (and they don't have a rope for ascension). It was loads of fun when we did. Maybe I need to investigate why we never go anymore...

Jimmysan, sometime we need to get our kids to minister creek, PA. There are massive boulders everywhere to hide in, climb on, and play around. It was like a giant play ground to me, as an adult.

MEANGREEN, I have an extra harness I got from a gearswap, for a friend who didn't want it. I'll dig it out and post the size and brand. If it'll fit you, you can have it. We have too much stuff stuffed in our gear closet and I hadn't really expected to have it this long.
last edited: 6/25/07 6:57:33 AM
Sassafras
6:51:19 AM
6/25/07

Scratch that, sorry. I forgot I sent it home with Ewker.
Sassafras
7:03:44 AM
6/25/07

"I just emailed you a picture of me, Eiger and the White Spider."

Forget the Eiger and the White Spider, let's see a picture of Euro.
mARKo
7:28:13 AM
6/25/07

You all have rocks in your heads. ;-)
lumberzac
7:50:57 AM
6/25/07

better than rocks on our heads.

!!

like most sports, you can spend as much as you want on climbing gear. And, it's not the kind of thing you want to scrimp on.

I just dropped a bundle on a rope and slings, locking biners.....

But - it is a blast!
Roam Around
9:09:48 AM
6/25/07

here's some place you should try

lumberzac
9:14:15 AM
6/25/07

where dat?
Roam Around
9:19:27 AM
6/25/07

That's the big wall of the Adirondacks, Wallface Mountain. From the base to the top is around 1200' (not all of this is on the cliff face). There's about 20 different routes up ranging from 5.2 to 5.10.
lumberzac
9:30:11 AM
6/25/07

sweet! sounds like a fun time.
Roam Around
9:38:05 AM
6/25/07

I just got back from Ralph Stover Park yesterday, we were hiking with the Sierra club. There must have been 40-50 people climbing with ropes, It inspired 3 of us to do a "bare hand" climb up one of the easier routes after the hike was over. It was so cool, I havent done that in a long time. We are supposed to go back maybe in the fall or next year and do one of the beginner faces with ropes and gear (after a lesson or 2 at the rock gym)
chocolatehead
10:40:27 AM
6/25/07

as far as climbing indoors is concerned, it's easily the best workount in the gym. i still do some strength training for a few areas and some cardo but the effects of climbing on a weekly basis are amazing.
Jimmy san
11:35:35 AM
6/25/07

which is a better workout hiking or climbing?
we had a debate over which is a better workout, hiking or climbing, the hike leader said that our hike (short-maybe 3 miles) was a better workout that what the climbing folks were doing, after the 60ft hand climb we did, i wasn't so sure, although it didn't take very long to get to the top. some of those guys were working hard to get past some overhangs...
chocolatehead
1:51:26 PM
6/25/07

haha

the "law of specificity" for training says that the best exercise for a given sport is that sport... basically if you want to get better at something then most of your time needs to be spent doing that thing.

duh.

so the best exercise for hiking is hiking and the best exercise for climbing is climbing.
last edited: 6/25/07 2:21:33 PM
Jimmy san
2:18:26 PM
6/25/07

i will add that as far as a gym workout goes climbing is unique. it's clearly a blend of strength training and endurance training (heavy weights low reps vs light weights high reps basically). the key difference between climbing and strength training is that in strength training you lift weights to the point of the muscle failing as a way to trigger adaptive changes. with climbing the goal is the opposinte... to conserve energy and AVOID muscle failure. so the end result is very different because not only are the objectives different but the approach is different as well.
last edited: 6/25/07 2:25:22 PM
Jimmy san
2:25:02 PM
6/25/07

climbing works muscles that normally don't get worked unless you really focus a workout plan. The reaching and pulling and opposition used in climbing is hard to do with dumbbells/barbells and cybex machines.

That said if you wanted to get a weight room workout that would help your climbing focus on CORE strength first, then shoulders and back - upper back especially, then forearms, wrists and fingers - especially the smaller outside fingers.

I keep a grip trainer at my desk and fiddle with it while I'm on the phone.
Roam Around
2:38:32 PM
6/25/07

chocolatehead, you were at Ralph Stover yesterday? What time? I was there with Lyra, Pennsy, crazypace and Greenmonkee. Lyra and I left a little after noon and crazypace even before that, but Pennsy and GM stayed and were going to move onto more advanced routes.

That's a cool place.

I am totally a beginner. I stuck to the practice climb.
EarthNsky
3:57:34 PM
6/25/07

I started free climbing about three months ago with Pennsy and CrazyPace. I've all ways loved scrambling up rocks and climbing trees so this was a natural step for me and I'm hooked.

We took our time learning anchors and top roping before taking an intermediate climbing course at the Gunks. Pennsy and I have been climbing after work at local crag in Allamuchy State park. We recently started exploring Mt Tammany's cliffs in the Delaware water Gap and the High Rocks of Ralph Stover State park.

Our first taste of trad climbing and mutipitch routes was at the Gunks, following our guide. Since Pennsy accumulated an impressive amount of gear, we started leading easy routes, mock leading at times.

A couple of weeks ago I followed Pennsy up The Rib 5.3 PG***, a two pitch Tammany classic. He lent me his gear and I went up to the Gunks that weekend with a new climbing friend, Ursula. She has been climbing for four years, knows the Gunks well and lives about five minutes from the main cliffs. She picked three amazing multipitch routes for me to lead. The last climb got interesting. Sunday I met up with some other climbers and ended up seconding two spectacular mutipitch 7's and a 5***, leading a 6 and top roping a couple of harder ones. Both days ended with a dip at Split Rock, a cool swimming hole. I took some pics in between the bouts of ecstasy. I'll post the pics and some details on the climbs later.

Last week Pennsy and I tried to climb Triumvirate, a two pitch 4 on Tammany. I set up at the optional photo belay under Cryptic Chimney. Think of it as a one cheek hanging belay. The route traverses left here on an exposed face with Mt Minsi and the Delaware River in the background. The sky opened up as I was about to take off on the second pitch. We kept our cool and rapped down in no time, leaving some gear. The plan was to climb at the Gunks last weekend but now we had to go and reclaim our booty.

Crazypace, Pennsy and I met up bright and early Saturday morning. The anchor was as we had left it on Thursday. We paused here to take advantage of the photo opp and admire the scenery. The last pitch was short but sweet. The Crazy one left to obtain refreshments and a campsite at Ralph Stover State park, near the crag we would climb on Sunday, while Pennsy and I scouted another route. We decided on Indian Head 5.3*. He led the first pitch past corners to a series of ledges and a nice belay. We went off route going up the face instead of a big left traverse. Pennsy got stuck about twenty feet from the belay so I lowered him, went up to retrieve the pro and continued leading. I was committed pretty soon and started coming across thorns, rotten rock and loose blocks. I even got bit by a wasp in a vulnerable stance. I somehow managed to get to the rim but it took forever. I felt bad about having Pennsy come up through that obstacle course. He got shredded. This was a big, scary learning experience that we came out of relatively unscathed and hopefully a little wiser.

Crazypace, EarthNSky and Lyra were at he tent site when we rolled in after 10PM. Crazypace had mammoth sandwitches and beer for us. We sat around the fire talking about our adventure and others to come before crashing. ENS made good progress going a few laps on a practice route. Pennsy lead a 4 crack climb, Ivy, top ropedTRed Finger In The Dike again and tweaked his finger trying an arete. I TRed FingerITD and the arrete next to Orvie And gave Orvie and Orvie Direct a couple of tries but I had to save what little energy I had left for a route I've been wanting to try for a while, Neanderthal, a strenuous 5.8+ Stover classic. Some other guys had a rope on it and told me to go for it. Pennsy belayed me while I climbed up a nice series of cracks through a small chimney to the crux notch in a big f'in ceiling. I rested there, studied it, went for it and fell. I decided to take a break and regroup, watch other climbers do a difficult overhanging line. I talked to Vinnie about the crux and he let me in on how he does it and pointed out a few key holds. He belayed me on the second go. I got up, tried the different orientation, struggled for a while and fell. I hung for a while, resting, looking at the beast in the eyes. It wasn't pretty but, with an awkward heel hook/arm jam, I was able to grunt and heave slowly through. The satisfaction by far outweighed the pain.

So, am I in?

Climb on
GreenMonkee
6:46:17 PM
6/25/07

hey, that was cool. thanks!
Jimmy san
7:26:30 PM
6/25/07

Awesome Roamy! It's about time you started this thread. ;o)

I started climbing this winter in the gym (North Summit Climbing Gym in Wind Gap, Pa) with Crazypace. We hit the rock for the first time in April after taking an excellent top rope anchor course through EMS. Soon, GreenMonkee started climbing with us and we took a 2 day intermediate course (like GM mentioned above) in the Gunks. We learned a LOT that weekend, and climbed a lot.

We immediately started talking about doing lead climbs and I naturally bought enough gear to do EL Cap in one pitch. If you take an EMS climbing course, you get 20% off all gear, including sale stuff. Woohoo!

I've done a few leads since, keeping it safe and easy with some 5.3's, 5.4's and a short 5.6. My first multi pitch lead on the Rib in the Delaware Water Gap (like GM described above) was an absolute blast. It was so much fun that 2 days later (while GM was in the Gunks), I talked Crazypace into leading it and I followed him.

I'm in no hurry to lead anything harder than 5's for now. I'm comfortable top roping 5.6's, 7's and an occassional 8, and I plan on spendng the rest of this year concentrating on form, technique, solid gear placements and bomber belay anchors. I just wish a (re)sprained finger would heal. :o(

GreenMonkee report from this past weekend was spot-on. I could elaborate on getting caught in the storm on Triumvirate and our wild adventure on Saturday afternoon, but this post is long enough. (although, I can't believe he didn't mention our 200' escape rappel off the Great Arch, most of the "ride" in space. Yeah, 2 60 meter ropes tied together is about 200' so there was little to spare).

I'm working on pics from our multi pitch climb on Triumvirate and our day at Ralph Stover. Hopefully, they'll get posted tonight or tomorrow.

By the way, did I say I was hooked BIG time on this sport? :o) What's backpacking?
last edited: 6/25/07 8:16:39 PM
Pennsy
8:14:20 PM
6/25/07

Man GM, you are one hell of a writer! Great report!

What are you doing this weekend? Maybe you can talk Pennsy in going to WV for MarkO's gathering and climb Seneca Rock!


last edited: 6/25/07 8:15:44 PM
EarthNsky
8:14:43 PM
6/25/07

Glad you enjoyed it.

Chocolatehead, there's a good chance that was me "working hard". That's funny.

I don't know how I forgot to mention that totally awesome rap, Pennsy. Forgive me, it was an eventful weekend.

Roam, thanks for starting this thread.

Zac, we need to climb up in your neck of the woods. Maybe something a little smaller though ;) Pennsy told me about that hike by Wallface.

ENS, that's a bit far for me but, dam, look at thar rock. Have a blast.

Here are a few pics from Triumvirate
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/559623594Vvxwxr
GreenMonkee
9:09:08 PM
6/25/07

dems be awesome pics, GM!! yikes, I'm not ready for lead climbing yet, but that looks like fun.
EarthNsky
9:19:21 PM
6/25/07

Nice! The rappel pic and the one with Todd climbing up with me way below gives this some perspective. It's a bummer that your camera crapped out, but I have you covered, amigo.

Here be my pics from Triumvirate

Tomorrow night I'll have the Stover pics.
By the way, I just saw this thread tonight and I want to read all posts and make some comments. Not tonight though. Me be bushed.
Rock Sleep on!
Pennsy
9:47:11 PM
6/25/07

nice!
Jimmy san
9:53:45 PM
6/25/07

Stover
ENS, we got there around 1 and probably were at the base of the cliffs around 2ish. We must have seen GM and Pennsy, I haven't met you guys yet but i may show up at the summer thing at the Wm Penn shelter. Anyway there were 4 of us, 2 guys leading, a cute girl, and me following up behind :). We stopped and chatted for a minute and tried not to walk on peoples ropes. We did the little free climb between sections B and C i think, leaving our packs up top and going down the rescue stairs. Where were you guys tenting? it must be a good stealth site i don't remember camping allowed at stover. then again i haven't been there for a while.
years ago before the fence was up we used to party on the cliff tops, and then go down and attempt to scale the same cliffs everyone uses ropes on, with our bare hands.
young and dumb.....
chocolatehead
10:54:23 PM
6/25/07

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