TT Rock Climbing Club

“Good deal Jim!

I'm stumped on 5.10 at the gym. I get so far up and then just get stymied on a move - it's all technique issues, I just need to beef up my bag of tricks.”

“I have found a few things I constantly overlook. These aren't tips from a pro or anything, just things I am working on or think about. I'll make a 10 point list. It's not like I keep this written or anything... I am just brainstorming.

1. Often I neglect to bring my feet up to an optimal position. I'll be really pushing to reach/latch a hold and when I step back I realize I can get one foot (or both) into a better position... even a few inches up/over... to make the latch.

2. I often underestimate how well I can latch small pieces, especially small ledges. Balance and foot position is more important here than strength. I get used to jugging up a route and forget that strength alone won't necessarily send every route.

3. Sometimes all I have to do is stand up.

4. I tend to look for holds that I can latch from the top (hang on) rather than holds from the side where I can use my body weight and friction. These work just as well but my eyes are still looking for horizontal jugs and not vertical lines.

5. I still waste a lot of energy. I do lap climbing and boulder problems to build endurance (works WELL!) but this only increases your reserves, not how efficiently you use these resources. I often don't generate as much lift with my legs as I could. I also don't spend enough time at spots where I can rest and rather tend to focus on the sequence of moves. I still tend to do a lot of dynamic moves.

6. I need to toe-in more often (rather than seeking edges all the time) and need to get better with slab friction. I need to get better with my footwork overall. The better climbers I watch all have footwork that is much better than mine.

7. I need to climb outside my comfort zone more often. The gym is a great place for this.

8. I need to practice keeping my hips turned into the wall when I press with my legs and pivoting on less substantial foot/hand holds.

9. I don't match as well as I could. I am finding more and more of my climbs have sections where I have only one hold and require that I match before making the next latch. I can do this in a reliable fashion but I feel shaky and unsure of the move.

10. I need to get better at inside flags. They feel awkward and I substitute all sorts of crazy things subconsciously to avoid them.

I don't know, I am just brainstorming. This stuff runs through my head all the time.
last edited: 10/04/07 9:03:23 AM”

“i can identify with a lot of those - I find that I get "tunnel vision" a lot of times on a route and just look up and then don't see the stem move out to the side or something like that.

Last night, i was "stuck" and didn't see how to move up - there didn't appear to be any where to go, but what was needed was to wedge my shoulder into a corner that was to my right, and use some opposition to allow my foot to lift off the hold and high step to a hand/foot match.

I just couldn't see it while I was up there.

Another route required a drop-knee move and mantle while twisting your hips to the wall... I couldn't see that one either -

Thats why i'm at the gym - to learn these techniques.”

“utter failure at the rock gym tonight. i couldn't repeat my 5.11b climb from yesterday and now i am totally whipped. i think i have been going at it too hard since returning from red river gorge and it finally caught up with me. sadly, i think some time off and a little running might be the ticket. i bet in a week i'll fly up that 5.11b like it was a 5.8...haha!

man, am i tired. it hit me like a train at the gym... all of a sudden. my new job has be working weird hours and i am sure this doesn't help any.”

“know how ya feel. the last two weeks at work have been like i'm working three jobs. Constantly have at least 4 or 5 things going and keep diverting attention from task to task, to phone call, to email, to this and then that.....

I get home and i'm just braindead and feel like i ran a marathon!”

“Led a 5.7 at The Watermark in Boulder Canyon today - sport climbing - clipping bolts :)

had great fun!

My son - he led a 5.8 route on the same crag!!!!

dude has balls! He just said - let me try it, I showed him what to do at the anchors and off he went!

WOO HOO!!!!”

“Kick azz Roam! It appears our buddy Jimmy san is going to have me climbing before I expected. The trip is posted, now I just gotta fanagle a baby sitter since mine are too young for this stuff yet.”

“i am teaching my 8 year old to lead but he won't take a fall. i won't let him climb past the first bolt on spot and this pisses him off. he'll climb over the prot but then won't take a fall. he'll downclimb. i told him he can't go to the second bolt until he proves he can fall properly. haha!”

“being an old man and everything i have taken to being a climbing evangelist more so than a climber.

...seriously. i can't say strongly enough how much climbing has enriched backpacking specifically and my life in general. there was a lot of talk about "basic skills" and even a trip set up, but when i think of basic skills i am not thinking of lighting a stove of making a fire but things like rope work, climbing, rappelling, etc.

i used to tell my wife that i loved backpacking because for a backpacker the world was a larger place simply because we are willing to walk out and take it. for someone not willing to take on this challenge the world is greatly diminished in ways they will never know. well for me climbing is sort of a one-up on this... as a climber the world is yet an even bigger place than what a backpacker can claim.

i have since found myself willing and eager to take on bigger challenges, more extensive backpack trips, and obstacles for which planning is mandatory and not just an expression of anal retentive behavior.

...and i don't just mean trips that involve climbing. i seem much more confident in backpacking situations where i probably would have been uncertain of myself. i think there is a self confidence factor at play here.”

“Watch out Jimmy...Your starting to sound like an extremist :P”

“Anybody ever heard about the Huber boys - Thomas and Alexander Huber?”

“both great climbers/mountaineers... alexander is in the "don't try this at home" sort of category.”

“couple of weeks ago I saw a documentary about the Huber boys, trying to break the record in speed climbing 'El Capitan'. Amazing camera work, stunning pictures, the Huber boys doing breathtaking stunts, extrem sports performance. All on the big screen in the cinema. Thomas and Alexander are interviewed, but still it's kind of hard to understand what drives someone to take such incredible risks? Extremly faszinating sports documentary, even for those who are not totally into rock climbing.

http://www.amlimit.kinowelt.de/
the link is in german, but it's still faszinating to view the trailer.”

“people will say that climbers like the huber boys demonstrate that skill can mitigate risk, and to an extent i would agree... however i see things differently.

risk is consequences of failure
skill is your ability to mitigate risk and hence avoid failure

the risk is the same for me as it is for the huber boys as it would be for anyone... death.

their skill, however, allows them less exposure to this risk. so to make up for my lack of risk relative to the huber boys i have to take more extensive precautions.”

“I agree with what Jimmy said, backpacking makes your world a bit larger and climbing is just a vertical expansion of that. I tell people its the best legal adrenaline rush I've ever found.

Freemdom and accomplishment mixed with scared to death - hard to beat it.

I've not seen the Huber bros stuff. But I've watched a couple of Dean Potter clips where he scrambles up cliffs unroped and even passes a roped party and says "Hi" as he rushes past.”

“Is there anyone that plans to go on the TT Basic Skill Building Trip, (NC) Hot Springs, North Carolina that would like to extend their stay or get there ahead of the basic skills trip and do a mini rock climbing teaching trip or what have you? I found a couple places close to Hot Springs, NC.

I do not have any experience in climbing but would love to learn if someone would want to teach it.”

“I just signed up for a beginners course indoor climbing and would like to get into it a bit more. Therefore I absolutly love to come and join that TT trip in NC and love to do some extra days rock climbing too! Anybody going my direction and give me a lift, please?”

“Dang, I have some catching up to do. It's been a while since I've been on TT.

JS and Roamy - congrats on the awesome climbing you guys have been doing, and to Roamy Jr. 5.8 lead, that's sweet!

JS - great top 10 list. Like Roamy, I can relate to several of those points.
7. I need to climb outside my comfort zone more often.
I do that every time I follow GreenMonkee in the Gunks. He's rapidly moving through the grades and it's all I can do just to second him.

What I REALLY need to do though is get more comfy on trad leads. Routes that I would fly up on 2nd, I am getting wigged out on lead. I know my gear is good because I'm always asking GM to critique it, but somewhere in my mind, I feel like I am free soloing. Maybe I need to take a few good whippers.

I had a blast this past weekend climbing with GM and Gemini in the Gunks. There were some firsts... I lead my 1st 5.4, GM lead his first 7, and Gem did her first multi pitch as a second. In fact, she did several and did great.
Here's some pics.

I didn't take pics on all the routes we did. I wish I could have taken pics on Limelight (5.7) that GM lead. That was a fantastic route.
last edited: 10/09/07 3:58:42 PM”

“This was on a myspace rockclimbing group, thought that maybe some of you guys might like to help maybe.


This is a post from rockclimbing.com. I decided to post it here & see if any of yall want to help out. Let me know.

Charlie Company 4th Light Armored Reconnissance
Battallion a Marine Reserve unit out of Salt Lake City Utah was mobilized and is now in Iraq of a while. There are quite a few climbers in the Co. so we are building a climbing wall to help keep things interesting. We have Metolius Rock Rings and Nicros is sending the HIT system which should be here shortly. Anything that any body can give would be greatly apreciated (old crusty holds to old climbing mags chalk what ever) If you want to donate leave a comment and I'll get you our address. It's just like shipping in country so cost won't be too bad. Heck if needs be I'm sure I can get some of the marines to pitch in to help pay the shipping. Thanks for any support you can give.


If you have anything to contribute, let me know, and I will get you the shipping info!
Sgt Collins”

“anybody read "The Rock Warrior's Way" by Arno Illger?

I've read it once on loan from teh library, but I just ordered a copy for my own.”

“Yes I have, and took some of his mental training classes. In fact he was at the Red last weekend having classes, with those who signed up for them in advanced. The weather was great lots of climbers enjoying the weekend long party.”

“Where is everybody?

I'll check that out, Roam. Thanks.

I haven't been around TT for a while but got a lot of good climbing in. I made a couple of new climbing partners.

One weekend I followed Joe up about 16 awesome pitches over 11 routes ranging from 7 to 9. That boy can move. Arrow was the highlight of that session.

The next week, Pennsy and I headed up early and got some climbs in before Gem met us at camp that night. Pennsy looked good leading Bunny, his first Gunks 4. I jumped into the 7's on Limelight. What a sweet route.
An den, the sh*t hit the fan. I wanted to get on Hans' Puss, got distracted by another line, didn't listen to Pennsy's warning and started up Feast of Fools 10b. At the roof, I got off route, thankfully (it gets really hard after that), and headed into a sea of lichen. I traversed under a long ceiling for about 50' looking for a weakness. At an old piton and clean face, I headed up on Silhouette 7+. It wouldn't have been a big deal if it wasn't for the monstrous rope drag. I arrived at the GTLedge stunned and exhausted. We used up all but 20' of our rope. Pennsy took a fall while traversing under the roof and had to prussik up the rope to continue. This adventure really took a lot out of him. We decided to take the easy road to the top on Easy V and rapped down into the darkness. Gem met us at camp. We headed into town for grub and back to camp for some fireside time and beer.

Pennsy wasn't feeling so hot the next day so he took pics and hung around while Gem and I climbed Northern Pillar and Casa Emilio, two great 3's. We went over to the visitors center for a cool movie on local climbers pulling Gunks roofs.
Joe and his girly friend met us that night at camp and we talked about the next days plans. His GF has never completed a pitch on rock. Her first attempt ended in tears.

She ended up doing well on three first pitches and rapping back down. I'd say that's great progress. Gem made alot of progress too, climbing a 5 crack, Finger Locks or Cedar Box and all three pitches of Hawk 5.5. I followed Joe up Double Crack after that, a steep and pumpy 8.

Gem Pennsy and I saw Sharma's new movie, King Lines at the SUNY campus that night.

The others were done with climbing for the weekend so Gem and I climbed Gelsa 5.4 and Easy Overhang 5.3 before heading home on Sunday.

More recent adventures coming soon.”

“My son had to write a paper for school. It had to be a story told by an object. He chose his Black Diamond climbing harness. I thought you would get a kick out of it.

Translation of one key word: "Geese" = "Guess"...


What my harnise says...

WOW!!!! James just fell off the Rock wall and landed on me. That really hurt!

When people fasten me on them it really hurts, when they do it too tight of cours. I'm NOT supposed to slide over your hips or els you die. Geese what am I... a harnise!

When I am tied in and that figure-eght knot is pulling up on me, it really hurts! I'm just here to do my job, not be your next victom James, OK? I mean it OK!

It feels very outstanding to save your life James... but sometimes i want to break free of this horible life.

In conclusion next time you see being tghtened way too tight, please tell the person to stop.

P.S. there are doghnuts in the cabnit James.
last edited: 10/29/07 8:18:55 AM”

“well he is 8 you know”

“nice, thanks for sharing that!”

“i have been struggling with a 5.11a at the gym before i had a break in climbing (work related). i came back this last tuesday and just scooted right up the thing. so i am thinking "one hit wonder". i took a break and scooted right up it three more times. ok i think, "four hit wonder". so i come back thursday and climb the thing clean four times straight. i never believe the ratings of the climbs anymore but for me this was a hard climb and apparently whatever was broken before my hiatus of a week and a half is apparently fixed. i spent the rest of the day on boulder problems and steady-state climbing for endurance. great week.
last edited: 11/02/07 5:20:38 PM”

“cool when you can get those to work out!

congrats dude!”

“Finally got around to uploading these shots from last month at the Gunks.
CCK was magical.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/561267930fKfAEG”

“very sweet stuff. thanks for posting.”

“Sweet!
Hey Mr Elusive - call me. My gear misses me. ;o)”

“My son and I went to Eldo to check out the Wind Tower and Whale's Tail on saturday. Climbed The Bomb (5.4) and West Dihedral (5.4). Was my son's first experience with trad gear!!! I'm still pretty new to the trad leading game, so we're taking it easy on the challenge factor, but it's getting easier to work with the gear.

We had to wait to get to the rapell anchors at the top of Whale's Tail as a family group with a couple of 8 yr olds was climbing the route just below the anchors - (how cool is that?!). So we just chilled for about 45 minutes, checked out the views, rapped about stuff - good times. It's not often you get to spend time like that with a teenage child.

”

“Fun!!

Glad you and boy had a great day to climb! :)”

“The weather was great too - sunny and about 65.”

“climbed for three hours tonight and now i am shot! i'll be climbing this weekend in rrg so i am DONE working out for the rest of the week. i'll run tomorrow.”

“CLIMBING THIS WEEKEND IN RRG. I am totally stoked.”

“Woo HOO!!!!

I hear ya bro!

I'm climbing Eldo on Sunday.”

“haha, i packed my trad gear... waaaay to much for the baby climbs this weekend. i have no clue about these routes, however. if it's typical rrg stuff i'll be ok. trad climbing is so much more exciting than sport for me.”

“Yah man! Trad is way more scary. :)

I climb a lot harder sport than I'd try on trad, but I enjoy the trad climbs a whole lot more.”

“one of these days”

“Nice pics Roamy. That rock looks sweet, but how on earth did Alex get that rap ring stuck in his lip? Gotta come in handy though.”

“climbed "double cave crack" this saturday with my friend. it's a 5.3 trad route in red river gorge, lower south wall. it's a great climb but my friend and i were left wondering if it really was a 5.3. i guess the first 1/3 i would not doubt it. it's a pair of cracks that are in fact fairly easy to climb. they lead to a rockhouse (very cool) and a belay but i climbed out of the rockhouse to a ledge opting to belay from a large ledge just above me in a chimney. i set a cam just outside the rockhouse and climbed out of the rockhouse and up the side of the chimney. i placed another cam in a crack at the base and headed up. next thing i know i am out of moves. i am not sure what went wrong but it all happened so quickly. the climbing was fairly easy and it turns out i had run out further than i should. i had out too much rope and knew i would hit the ledge below me and likley not stop there. well that's exactly what happened. i popped off, landed on the ledge (after bouncing off the wall) and then flipped backwards (upside down) off of the ledge of the rockhouse. i wound up about 4' below the rockhouse ledge inverted facing the cliff. i got myself turned right-side up and started to holler to come down but stopped myself and climbed back up to the ledge to lick my wounds. i fixed an anchor from the ledge (the one above the rockhouse) and belayed my friend up. he took the lead and quickly sent the chimney (almost as badly runout but he as a long reach and got a cam in a crack i could never have reached given my approach). a quick change of belay points and i was a the top. after my rest at the belay station i was feeling refreshed and sent the chimney in a snap.

i am pretty banged up and my right hand is very red and puffy (broken?)

i am going to hang that yellow cam from the rear-view window of my truck. i am convinced it saved my life. haha!

the ledge from the top was uber cool, well worth the climb. we explored the top for a while, then set up a rap station and rapped to the bottom. needless to say i doubled checked the anchor for the rap -and- used a petzl shunt as a backup. at that point i was a belt and suspenders kind of climber, esp with a sore hand and who knows what else busted up.

we headed back to the truck (the approach was messy, steep, wet, and slippery) and drove to Left Flank wall. We met my wife and three kids there. My friend led Mr. Bungle (5.8-) and we fixed a top-rope for the kid to climb on. It was late and cold and my youngest (8) wanted to climb. He made an impressive attempt (was being quite successful in fact) but wanted down after a ways. he's going to be a white-hot rock climber in his time. i then climbed mr bungle on top rope, took down the top rope setup (it was dark by now) and rapped down to the bottom. we gathered up our gear in the dark and stumbled back to the car... darker than the inside of a polecat!

my friend an i parted company with my family and headed out in the dark to find the camp site where the mobfesters were hanging out. i sent an sms to meangreen's phone that returned a set of GPS coordinates. they were close to grey's arch trailhead just off of 100 so that's were we went. finding camp in the dark with the fog out that night would have been impossible without the GPS. with the GPS it was trivial. see the mobfest trip reports for the details from this point in.

the next morning we hiked out and parted company with the mobfest group. we returned to hemlock lodge, met my family, and took of for a short home to "hensen's arch" which is super cool and i highly recommend it (it's just down the highway from the lodge turn-off about 1/3 of a mile down hensen's arch trail). then we returned to the lodge and gorged on the now famous sunday buffet lunch before return-driving to chicagoland.

what a weekend!”

“damn! Glad your not any worse broken!!

Chimney's are weird - different technique, at first they terrified me, now I'm getting more comfortable - pro is usually sparse, but the climbing is generally easy (cept for squeeze chimneys, those still scare me).

Trad gear rocks!”

“lmao! you summed it up very well... different technique, terrifying, sparse pro and i'll add dreadful fall consequences ("pinball effect" i call it). in short a lot of fun!”

“On December 5, the warehouse in which Alpinist housed its inventory, such as back issues, hats, shirts, water bottles, stickers, everything, burned to the ground. Nothing was salvaged.

If you have been thinking about buying a subscription, a gift subscription, now is the time to pony up and do it.

www.alpinist.com

News Article
last edited: 12/11/07 1:09:43 PM”

“Finally! I found one!



This appears at Alpinist's web site and is credited there to the American Alpine Club at www.americanalpineclub.org”

“Hmmmm.... Looks like Greek to me.”

“Don't worry, it'll all make sense soon enough :)”

“went to the gym for 4 hours today and climbed like crazy. no belayer so i couldn't do the overhanging stuff like i wanted. my wrist (whacked from my fall last weekend) was stiff but held out and tonight it is feeling pretty good.”

“climbed my first 5.11a in the gym, clean. i am very tired from the first few attempts but on the 5th try i just "let go" and climbed trying to stay limber and not tense up... avoid overgripping. the rock just flowed under me and the sequence came almost easily. the crux move (a dyno) was tough and after i got down i noticed i had basically torn off a good chunk of the fingernail on my index finger on the move. it REALLY hurts but at the time i didn't notice it. must have been all that chalk! haha!”