UNCLASSIFIED ALASKA EXPEDITION 09

“Worked for me. cool.”

“FIRES????

Not a freaking again?

http://www.nps.gov/wrst/parkmgmt/firemanagement.htm

Take a look at the links Fridge. This happenin' in our area. Sucks for photos if this is still going in August.”

“No fires where we are going, but.....the NP service has said they have released 60 Black bears and 22 Grizzly bears within a 3 mile area where we are going. Hell yea!
last edited: 7/06/09 2:40:20 AM”

“fridge ain't gonna be happy 'til someone gets et.”

“Can't believe ya'll are following this guy into Alaskan wilderness. He can't even do Dolly Sods without getting lost. LOL!”

“I found a Fridge on Roaring Plains last Friday.”

“Anchorage looks exactly like I pictured it.”

“Make sure to keep peanut butter in your tents at night :D”

“Note to self, store extra ham beside Fridge's tent...”

“No, not Fridge's tent, at least not this year.”

“Also note.....the volcano is showing signs too. We will be quite near.”

“I heard that volcanoes erupting keep bears away.”

“Yes it does chin but what iffin those bears run into us as we flee!? What IF!”

“Syncpack and Moose Filter both ordered. Now to start packing my gear. I'm considering ordering a bear canister...and maybe look for a light tripod that's not the gorillapod”

“Dub - if you find a sweet light tripod PLEASE let me know. The tripod I have is lame.”

“Jacksina Creek
MAPS: USGS Maps-Nabesna 1:250,000; Nabesna (A5), (A6), (B4), (B5) 1:63,360
ACCESS: Air taxi flight to Jaeger Mesa.
ROUTE: The landing area is on Jaeger Mesa at 6500', approximately 3 miles south of Gold Hill. Hike south along the crest of the mesa, aiming for P6628', located at the southern end of the mesa. The view from the mesa is spectacular. Mt. Sanford, Mt. Wrangell, Mt. Jarvis, Mt. Blackburn, Mt. Gordon, and the Nutzotin Mountains are all visible. The hiking varies from solid shale to spongy tundra. Descend from the mesa around the east side of P6628'. Clear water and camping are available near the lake south of P6628' at 5135'.
Mt. Gordon lies to the south. It can be climbed via its southern slopes to avoid the glaciers and is mostly a rock scramble.
From the lake, hike west along the creek drainage for 2 to 3 miles before going southwest into the upper Mesa Creek drainage. From Mesa Lake, shown as 4720' on a topo map, several pleasant day trips are easily accessable. Alternately, follow a game trail at the south end of the lake and desend into the Jacksina Creek drainage. Jacksina Creek is a swift, powerful stream and if the decision is made to cross it, extreme caution should be used. Fording the Jacksina is usually impossible the main channel is 40 feet wide and 5 feet deep.
It is possible to hike along the south side of the Jacksina Glacier and cross the glacier on the lower rocky moraine. Once across the glacier, a short hike downstream brings you to a creek bed which can provide access to the mesa north of the glacier. It is roughly a 1,000 foot climb to the top of the mesa.
Descend from the mesa off P5695' which is south of Tumble Creek and at the northeast end of the mesa. Tumble Creek is swift and must be crossed early in the morning.
Once across Tumble Creek several options are available. Grizzly lake is an excellent fishing spot and a could be spot for a float plane pickup.
You could continue hiking to Tanada Lake, either to camp and fish, or use Tanada Lake as a float plane pickup as well. The area around Tanada Lake is very wet. Hiking is extremely difficult due to deep mud bogs and tussocks.
We will be crossing the Jacksina Glacier!!!”

“Glacier Brewhouse (Brewpub) phone: 907-786-3772
737 W. 5th Ave
Anchorage, AK 99501


Midnight Sun Brewing Co (Microbrewery) phone: 907-344-1179 fax: 907-344-6656
7329 Arctic Blvd
Anchorage, AK 99518


Moose's Tooth Brewing Co (Microbrewery) phone: 907-278-4999
2021 Spar Ave
PO BOX 202549
Anchorage, AK 99520


Sleeping Lady Brewing Co/ Snow Goose Restaurant (Brewpub) phone: 907-277-7727 fax: 907-563-9354
717 W. 3rd Ave
Anchorage, AK 99501”

“Quick Sand info...We will be crossing several streams and with Glacier silt build up with sand. Last year we crossed several such areas and you could see the sand pump 20 feet away or more.”

“Understanding Your Compass
Before you can make use of a topographic map, it must be oriented properly to your surroundings. Knowing which direction North is isn't enough--you must also find your own position on the map

That act of figuring out where you are in relation to a map is called triangulation, a long-winded term for using at least two recognizable landmarks to pinpoint your own position. To triangulate properly you will need a compass, a ruler and a pencil or pen.

Before you leave the house, prepare your map.

Find the declination diagram at the bottom of your map.
Align your ruler along the line labeled "MN," which stands for magnetic north. Using pencil, extend that line from the bottom to the top of the map.
Draw parallel lines every 1.5 inches on both sides of this line all the way across the map.
It's not necessary to draw lines across the entire map ~ just do the sections you're actually going to use.

In the field, identify at least two landmarks that you see and locate them on the map.
Look for easily identifiable features such as peaks, clearings, lakes, ponds, roads, rivers and buildings. Scan the map carefully until you find two (preferably three) such distant landmarks.

The second landmark should be at a right angle to the first as you look at them in the field; the third should fall between these two.

Mark these landmarks on your map if necessary so you don't "lose" them.

Align your map to your surroundings.
Spread the map out flat.
Set the compass dial to North (0 degrees).
Lay the compass on top of the map and align one long side of the baseplate along one of the magnetic north lines you added.
Turn both map and compass together until the red end of the needle is on the "N." The top of the map now points to true north.
Align your map to a landmark.
Pick up the compass.
Point the direction of travel arrow at the first landmark you chose in the field, in this case the north end of the lake down in the valley in front of you.
Rotate only the dial until the red end of the needle points again to North. Hold the baseplate still at this time, keeping it pointed at the landmark.
Put the compass back on the map with one long baseplate edge touching the landmark.
Carefully pivot the entire compass until the orienting lines inside the compass housing are parallel with the magnetic north reference lines you drew before you left home.
Draw a five or six-inch line from the landmark along the edge of the baseplate.
Triangulate your position.
Repeat steps 1-6 above under Align Your Map To A Landmark.

Your approximate location will be where the 2 lines cross.

To further verify your location, select a third landmark between the first two and repeat steps 1-6. This third line should pass through the intersection of the first two lines to confirm your position. If not, recheck your work for all three landmarks.

I see a stream on my map. How do I find it in the real world?
You may encounter a situation where you can see a choice location on a map, but because the terrain around you blocks the view (high trees, rolling hills, riverbeds and so on), you can't see it in "real life."

After you oriented yourself to the map, you can easily judge the location of a landmark in the field even if you can't see it.

Mark both your current location and destination.
Lay one side edge of the compass baseplate on the map, aligned with these two points. (The direction of travel arrow should be pointing toward the goal, not away from it.)

Holding the baseplate steady on this line, turn the dial until the needle and the orienting arrow line up.

Read the bearing at the marker line.

Pick up the compass and map with the needle still aligned with the orienting arrow, follow the direction of travel line with your eyes. It is now pointing to the object you wish to find in the field.

Getting from here to there, however, probably won't be a simple matter of walking in a straight line. To learn how to navigate around obstacles without losing your way.

I see a peak up ahead. How do I find it on the map?
If you know your position on a map, you can use a compass to identify landmarks in the field.

Let's say you're on a mountain peak, and you'd love to identify a nearby summit so you can brag to your friends back home about the view. Nothing to it!
Orient the map.
Draw a straight line connecting your current location with the summit you want to identify.
Place one side edge of the baseplate on this line, with the direction of travel arrow pointing toward the summit on the map.
Turn the dial until the orienting arrow and the north end of the compass needle are lined up. Read the bearing, which is the number on the dial at themarking line.
Pick up the compass and, after making sure the orienting arrow and needle are still aligned, sight along the bearing. The direction of travel arrow now points to your peak.
Doublecheck your work visually by making sure that the terrain around the object you identified on the map matches the terrain around the object in the field.
How do I navigate around this huge bramble patch without getting lost?
Following a compass bearing is hard enough, but nature makes it even more difficult by throwing up obstacles that block your nice straight line. Marshes, ponds, boulders, trees, cliffs, steep slopes, brambles and dense foliage can all thwart hikers trying to follow a straight course. Sometimes, you'll soon find, the shortest distance is not the easiest.

Planning your route in advance helps here. If you know ahead of time, for example, that an outcropping of rock lies between your campsite and that cave entrance, study your topographic map and plot a route around it.

But you never know when your path will be unexpectedly blocked ~ by a fallen tree, a washed out bridge, an unmapped quarry ~ forcing you to navigate around without benefit of planning. Here's how.
Sight ahead while you're walking in order to identify landmarks along your compass bearing. For example, say you're truckin' along a bearing of 270 degrees (due west) and you encounter a huge fallen tree. Before moving around it, sight along 270 degrees ahead of you and note a conspicuous landmark ~ tree, rock, or other easily identified point ~ on the opposite side of the log that's at the same bearing.
After detouring around the downed log, go to the landmark you noted earlier and resume your previous course of 270 degrees.
Here's another technique called "right angle navigation." We're back at the downed tree again and want to navigate around it on a bearing of 270 degrees (due west).
Turn 90 degrees from your bearing. In this case, you decide to turn left, (due south). Turn the dial so the direction of travel arrow and the marking line point to 180 degrees.
Begin your detour. Carefully count your paces as you go.
As soon as you clear the tree, turn 90 degrees back toward your previous bearing. In this case, you'd turn right (due West) again, back to 270 degrees. Rotate the compass dial to match that bearing.
Walk past the obstacle.
Turn 90 degrees to the right, this time in the opposite direction of your first turn, and rotate the compass dial again; in this case, you'd rotate it to 360 degrees (due north).
Walk back along the other side of the log, counting off the number of steps you walked the first time you turned. This will return you to your original course.
Turn 90 degrees left to 270 degrees, your original bearing (due West).
The key to making this technique work is keeping out and back portions of the detour equal in length. Keep close track of the number of paces you walk, and keep your strides as uniform as possible.

How do I measure hiking distance accurately on a map?
"Linear distance" and "travel distance" are almost never the same in the backcountry. "As the crow flies," in other words, "ain't as the hiker walks."

If you're trying to estimate how many miles you have ahead of you, measuring the distance straight from point A to point B won't do you any good ~ because unless you're actually a crow, the route you take will likely follow a more roundabout path.

To measure actual or nonlinear distance on a topographic map--of a winding trail, say, or a meandering creek ~ use one of these two methods. (Note that the Paper Method does not work very well on the trail.)


String Method
Find something long and flexible, such as a piece of string or dental floss. An item that retains its shape is even better ~ a twist-tie or pipe cleaner, perhaps.
Place one end of the twist-tie at the starting point.
Use your fingers to conform the twist-tie to the shape of your route.
Mark the end of the route on the twist-tie with your thumb and forefinger, or give it a sharp crimp.
Straighten it out and lay it down next to the bar scale at the bottom of the map to read the distance.
Note: If you're using string or something that won't keep its shape, always keep it anchored with one finger as you move forward. Otherwise, if the string slips you'll have to start over again. Also, don't stretch the string when you straighten it out.

Paper Method
Find a thin strip of paper about a foot long.
Align the edge of one end of the paper with your starting point. Make a tick mark there.
Now rotate the paper gently to follow the bends in the trail, making tick marks at significant turns until you reach the end point.
Lay the paper along the bar scale and read the distance.
Some guidebook maps will have a numerical scale ~ such as "one inch equals one mile" ~ indicated in the legend, but no accompanying bar scale. In a case such as this, measure the distance with a ruler (there's a small one on the baseplate of your compass) and multiply that number by the scale. A distance of 3.75 inches on a map with a "one-inch-equals-one-mile" scale would represent 3.75 miles on the ground.”

“Black Bear: Try to appear as large as possible by raising your arms and even your pack over your head. Shout and slowly back away. If a black bear attacks, fight back aggressively. With any type of bear--grizzly or black--turning around and running will encourage a footrace you won't win.”

“Grizzly: Avoid eye contact, speak in a low voice, and back away slowly. If it charges, hold your ground and attempt to look as large as possible. Some charges are bluffs. If the grizzly attacks, lie flat on your stomach, lace your hands over the back of your neck, and play dead.”

“Thunderstorm distance: Count the seconds between flash and boom: 5 seconds means 1 mile. The danger zone is anywhere inside 6 miles, but rogue bolts can strike people as far as 10 miles away. Storms move quickly, so take evasive action early.

Avalanche threat: Continuously scan the terrain for telltale signs, especially on the lee side of peaks, below cornices, and on slopes angled 35 to 45 degrees. Look for horizontal fracture lines in the snowpack, listen for hollow or thumping sounds, and be aware of recent fluctuations in temperature, precipitation, and wind. Check with local rangers and survey forecasts at avalanche.org.

Calculate trail mileage: No GPS? If you have a topo map, measure your route with a string. Or do some reckoning: The average hiker covers 2 miles an hour on level trails with no breaks. Deduct 25 percent if the trail is rough or steep.”

“I am that average hiker...2mph is my max, especially with the load we'll be taking. If we are crossing a Glacier I hope it's on a level part cause I don't wanna have to bring an axe or crampons..?”

“I asked fridge about crampons and he said not needed. I thrust him on that. Besides. Yaktrax are alot lighter LOL!”

“no need for any type of Crampons, Jacksina Glacier is fairly flat with no Cravesses.”

“WEATHER

Tonight...Mostly cloudy with a slight chance of rain. Lows in the 40s. Southeast wind 10 to 25 mph diminishing to 15 mph or less after midnight.

Thursday...Mostly cloudy with a slight chance of rain. Highs in the mid 50s to mid 60s. Southeast wind 5 to 20 mph.

Thursday Night...Mostly cloudy with a slight chance of rain. Lows in the lower to mid 40s. Southeast wind 5 to 20 mph.

Friday...Mostly cloudy with a slight chance of rain. Highs in the mid 50s to upper 60s. South wind 5 to 20 mph.

Friday Night...Partly cloudy. Lows in the upper 30s to mid 40s. Light winds.

Saturday...Partly cloudy. Highs in the 60s.

Saturday Night...Mostly cloudy. Lows in the 40s.

Sunday Through Tuesday...Mostly cloudy with a chance of rain. Highs 65 to 75. Lows 45 to 55.

Tuesday Night And Wednesday...Partly cloudy. Lows 45 to 55. Highs 65 to 75.”

“RIVER CROSSINGS


Most backcountry routes in Wrangell-St. Elias require numerous creek and river crossings. Bridges and log crossings are virtually non-existent. These crossings can be VERY dangerous without preparation, patience, and planning. Hikers must be familiar with safe techniques for crossing rivers and streams. Many are impassable, even for experts. Other can change quickly from trickling creeks to raging torrents, so be especially cautious.


The water volume, clarity and velocity may vary drastically according to season, time of day and upstream weather conditions. On warm days, melting snow and glacial ice can swell streams that were easily crossed in the morning to flood stage by mid-afternoon. In glaciated areas, hotter, sunny days cause higher volume in the streams due to the ice melt (geologists call this diurnal flux). Voluminous, warm rain is also a contributing factor. Safe footing is difficult to obtain: silty water obscures channel bottoms while clear water allows for slippery algal growth. Icy water numbs feet quickly and even shallow streams are surprisingly swift when flowing down steep inclines. This combination of factors makes stream crossings one of the most hazardous parts of any backcountry experience.
Keep these points in mind when crossing water channels:
Choose the safest TIME to cross:
Cross early in the day whenever possible;
Be aware of storms in the area, cross before storms whenever possible.
Choose the safest PLACE and METHOD to cross:
The widest or most braided portion of the channel is usually the most shallow.
Straight channels usually exhibit uniform flow while bends often reveal deep cut banks and swift water on the outside edge.
Water has less momentum on level ground than when flowing down an incline.
If hiking solo, use a hiking staff, held upstream, to create a more stable, three point stance. Move only one contact point at a time.
Two or more hikers should cross parallel to the current with the strongest and heaviest member upstream to lessen the force on the other hikers. Walk across with arms linked, or face upstream and sidestep across.
In deep water, the triangle method is safest. Facing each other, three people grip each others shoulders or packs and work their way across one person, one leg, at a time.
Protect your feet:
NEVER cross in bare feet. Wear boots or bring extra shoes for crossings.
Move one foot at a time, sliding it across the bottom.
Prepare to get wet:
Loosen pack straps to expedite removal in the event of a fall.
Have sleeping bag and extra clothing packed tightly in dry bags inside your pack.
Remove pants and socks before crossing (or have spares to insure dry clothes for the other bank).
Wear polypropylene or nylon clothes.
Bulky and knit garments trap glacial silt.



MOOSE SAFETY


Watch for signs that the moose is upset
If its ears are laid back and hackles are up it is likely to charge. Most of the time, when a moose charges it is a ‘bluff’, or warning for you to get back – a warning you should take very seriously! Once a moose bluff charges it is already agitated. If possible, get behind something solid like a tree, or someone with a 44 magnum.
Unlike with bears, it is okay to run from a moose.
They usually won’t chase you and if they do, it’s unlikely that they’ll chase you very far. If a moose knocks you down, curl up in a ball and protect your head with your arms and keep still. Fighting back will only convince the moose that you may still be a threat. Only move once the moose has backed off to a safe distance or it may renew its attack.
Moose are the largest member of the deer family, with large mature bulls standing 7 feet tall at the shoulders and weighing 1600 pounds.”

“Hey Fridge, screwed any?”

“There are no maintained backcountry trails. The best hiking routes are along river bars, lake shores, and gravel ridges. Even on the best routes, you must occasionally cross rivers or fight through dense brush or marshy flats. Routes often selected are wildlife trails. Stay alert for bears and moose as you travel as wildlife also seeks the easiest routes through brush and forest.
Stay away from low lying tundra flats because tussocks and marshy ground predominates there, making hiking extremely difficult. The mosquito is king in this environment. Alder thickets on hillsides, and willow patches along the water courses are often impenetrable. They may also hide bears. Be sure to make noise.
In peak bear viewing times (Jul and Sep), anglers spend much more time out of the water than in. Expect that you will have to give up your fishing hole to a bear at some time during your trip.
Know how to break your line. The splashing of a fish will often catch the attention of a bear. Break your line quickly and move out of the water until the bear passes.
Bears approach anglers because they have learned to recognize them as a source of food. Stop fishing when bears are present.
Do not approach bears
The minimum safe distance from any bear is 50 yards; from a sow with young it is 100 yards. These are MINIMUM distances, there are many times that greater distances are required!
Regardless of precautions taken, you may come across a bear. Usually they will run away. A bear standing on hind legs may only be trying to sense you better, not preparing to attack. Even a charge is often a bluff, ending abruptly short of physical contact.
If you see a bear at a distance, turn around or make a wide detour. Keep upwind if possible so the bear will get your scent and know you're there. Talk in an assured tone to communicate your presence. Treat animals as if cubs are nearby. Assume the bear will be defensive. Do not approach closer to scare a bear away as you may be considered a threat.
Avoid actions that interfere with bear movement or foraging activities.
Be satisfied with a distant photograph, or use a telephoto lense. Many fatalities and injuries have been related to photography.
Do not corner an animal. Allow them plenty of space and an escape route.
Bears are typically solitary animals. Much of their communication at feeding aggregations, such as occur on Brooks River, serves to maintain spacing and avoid conflict. Bears appear to have only a limited repertoire for this purpose. These behavior patterns are not highly ritualized, as in some species; therefore, their meaning is largely dependent on the context of the situation.
Descriptions of some behavior and a general interpretation of meaning follow to help you understand what a bear may be trying to tell you. Remember, each bear is an individual and each encounter is unique.
Postures
Standing on hind legs - A bear standing bipedally is typically not expressing aggression. Bears generally stand on their hind legs to gain more information, both olfactory and visual.
Stationary lateral body orientation - A bear may stand broadside to assert itself in some instances. In encounters with human, it has usually been interpreted as a demonstration of size.
Stationary frontal orientation - If a bear is standing and facing you, it is certainly not being submissive. This is an aggressive position and may signal a charge. It is likely waiting for you to withdraw.
Vocalizations
Huffing - When a bear is tense, it may forcibly exhale a series of several sharp, rasping huffs. A mother may also huff in order to gain the attention of her young.
Woof - A startled bear may emit a single sharp exhale that lakes the harsh quality of a huff. If her cubs woof, a mother will immediately become alert to the situation.
Jaw-Popping - Females with young often emit a throaty popping sound, apparently to beckon their cubs when danger is sensed. A mother vocalizing in this manner should be considered nervous and extremely stressed. Bears other than sows also jaw-pop.
Growl, snarl, roar - Clear indication of intolerance.
Other Indicators
Yawning - Indicates tension. This behavior may results from the close proximity of another bear or human presence.
Excessive Salivation - A clear sign of tension, salivation may appear as white foam around the bear's mouth.
The Charge
The vast majority of charges are ones in which the bear stops before making contact. The intensity of the charge or associated vocalizations may vary, but it is distinct in that it is an aggressive or defensive act clearly directed at another bear or human. Bears may charge immediately, as a sow fearing for her cubs, or may emit stressed or erratic behavior before charging.
There is no guaranteed lifesaving method of reacting to an aggressive bear. Some behavior patterns have proven more successful in close encounters than others. Take a calm assured posture. A firm voice and gradual departure are better than a retreat in panic. Include the nature of your surroundings in your reaction.
As a last resort, lie face down, protect your neck with your hands and arms, and don't move. This requires considerable courage, but resistance would be futile. Numerous incidents exist where a bear has sniffed and departed without serious injury.”

“I'll take that for a 'yes'.”

“Alaska's Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is at the top of more than one list of superlatives. It is the largest U.S. national park, which, when combined with other nearby parks (Kluane National Park, Glacier Bay National Park, and Canada's Tatshenshini-Alsek Park) is the biggest part of the largest internationally protected area in the world (24 million acres) and has been recognized as a World Heritage Site. Nine of the 16 highest peaks in the United States, and some of the largest mountains (by volume) in the world, are located here. The largest concentration of Dall sheep in North America live here.
The prime time of year for visiting Wrangell-St. Elias is from June 20 to August 20, but don't think that there won't be any backcountry hardship. Wrangell-St. Elias is a mountain wilderness unlike any other. It is almost entirely roadless, there are no maintained trails in the park, and access is only by unpaved road, boat, or plane. Backcountry adventurers run the risks of hypothermia, bear encounters, dangerous river crossings.”

“We will be near Jarvis
Mount Jarvis is an eroded shield volcano in the Wrangell Mountains of eastern Alaska. It is located in Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park about 10 miles (16 km) east of the summit of Mount Wrangell. The mountain sits at the northeastern edge of the massive ice-covered shield of Wrangell, rising nearly 5,000 feet (1,500 m) above it in a spectacular series of cliffs and icefalls.

When seen from above, Mount Jarvis is distinctly dumbbell-shaped, with two prominent peaks connected by a narrower ridge. The mountain's main summit is 13,421 feet (4,091 m), making it one of numerous thirteeners (peaks between 13,000 and 13,999 feet in elevation) in Alaska. The second summit is located about 3 miles (5 km) to the north-northwest, reaching 13,025 feet (3,970 m) with over 725 feet (221 m) of prominence above the connecting saddle,[3] thus qualifying it as an independent peak on the list of thirteeners as well. The entire summit area including both peaks and the ridge is covered in glacial ice. The steep, rocky eastern and western faces of Mount Jarvis form headwalls above the cirques of the Jacksina Glacier and Copper Glacier, which flow northward out of the Wrangell Mountains.”

“any info on how close the fires are?”

““any info on how close the fires are?”

reading the information from the park website http://www.nifc.gov/fire_info/nfn.htm states that there are 6 large fires in Alaska right now, however the closest to where we are would be in

"Chakina (Valdez-Copper River Area, Alaska Department of Forestry): 32,000 acres at an unknown percent contained. This previously reported incident is 14 miles south of McCarthy. This will be the last report unless significant activity occurs."

This is on the other side of the mountain range to the south, that we will be in. I do not know the distance but if you look up McCarthey on google earth and then Grizzly Lake a point near where we will be, you can see we will be a good distance from the fire areas, however i do not know how this will effect the photos do to the smoke. Hopefully the winds will move the smoke in the other direction.
Here is a link, http://www.nps.gov/wrst/parkmgmt/upload/20090720_0900_Chakina_fire_progression_8x11_land-compressed%207-20.pdf I hope it still works that shows the fire in relation to McCarthy, keep in mind nabesna is to the north further still from McCarthy. Unfortunetly I can not load google earth onto my work computer, no admin rights. hope this helps ChinMusic.”

“Thanks. I'm just hoping we get good air for photos.”

“Talked to Kirk today and No problem with fires or smoke. Skies are clear. Note.....he is telling me about a spot near Mt Jarvis and 10 miles from Wrangell which everyone knows is a Volcano, he can take us too. There will be snow and we will have access to Jacksina Glacier. Camp could be at the 8000 ft at Jarvis. Above tree line and temps will be 30 at night and 70's day.
my luck the Damn Wrangell will erupt and I would s h i t my pants.
last edited: 7/24/09 4:27:24 PM”

“Confirmed our fly in with Kirk's wife Saturday the 8th around noon.
Also a 2010 trip will blow your mind as soon as I post details. Kirk has sent me a map with all air strips he can fly in to. He has one of the only 2 type planes in existence that can fly into short air strips putting us in areas no others can get to. Last year Kirk flew is to a Mountainside approx 25 degree angle and as I was unbuckling my seat belt he said ....quote...I hope we can stay hear before we roll off. He then turned the plane side ways so we would not roll down the hill...I then squeezed my big arse out the plan and started breathing. He actually flew us to a strip on a side of a Mountain. Freaked me out.

2010 is already set and I will post after August. First 5 who commit will be locked in.
Details in August or early Sept.
last edited: 7/24/09 4:52:14 PM”

“Of more than a normal interest is the heating up of the summit region of Alaska's Mt. Wrangell the past 20 years. The increase in upward heat flow in a small crater on the rim of the volcano's summit caldera at altitude 4000 m (14,000 ft) does not necessarily mean that an eruption is imminent. But an eruption is an obvious possibility. Mt. Wrangell has been far from inactive in historic times. During the major Yakutat earthquakes in September, 1899, Wrangell increased its output of smoke and ash. The summit caldera, which has a diameter of 6 km, may have been formed as recently as 2,000 years ago.
The warming up of Mt. Wrangell is clearly shown by the melting of glacier ice in the volcano's North Crater. Almost unnoticeable twenty years ago, the North Crater on the caldera rim is now a nearly ice-free pit 200 meters (600 ft) deep. Active steam vents on the crater floor discharge heat energy at a rate of about 100 megawatts. That is enough energy to provide electrical power for a city of perhaps 10,000 people.
Wrangell is the only volcano in the Wrangell Volcanic Field to have had historically recorded eruptions, generally in the form of small steam and ash explosions. The amount of geothermal heat being emitted by Wrangell has been increasing since the 1950s, raising the possibility of a future eruption. Also, the heat flux has been high enough to melt ice around the craters and create ice caves.”

“Crevasses form because the glacier is flowing over a rough uneven surface. Frozen water, as you know, does not easily pour. Thus as the thick sheet of ice moves down the mountain cracks open up in the brittle ice sheet. The depth of these cracks on a glacier like the Blue can reach 30 meters or more while the width can vary from a few centimeters to tens of meters. The main reason crevasses present such a hazard to climbers is that snow bridges often obscure them. Winter snow accumulation regularly covers the openings. As ablation increases, these bridges become thinner and thinner. The most common mountaineering accident occurs when a climber pops through a thin snow bridge into a hidden crevasse. Climbing parties rope up in three or four person teams so that others can stop someone from falling to the bottom.
The patterns crevasses make on the glacier surface reveal much about the glacier’s flow. On Blue Glacier two types of crevasses—transverse and marginal—are easy to recognize. The rows of parallel crevasses pointing up glacier along the edges of the glacier are marginal crevasses. This pattern develops when friction from valley walls actually slows or stops the flow along the edges of the glacier. The ice is also relatively thin in these areas. Transverse crevasses span the width of the glacier and are found anywhere there is active movement.”

“Crevasse Rescue Part 1
Overview: The best thing is not to fall in a crevasse. Learning how to spot crevasses, avoid them and the use of proper travel techniques are the key. But...

General
The components used in crevasse rescue are the same as improvised rope rescue. However, when a climber falls into a crevasse, the rope stopping the fall will usually cut deeply through the snow at the lip of the crevasse (in this section, the part of the rope used to initially stop the fall into the crevasse is called the belay rope). This makes it difficult or impossible to use the belay rope to haul the victim out, either due to friction or because it is not feasible to pull the victim through the overhang.
A section of rope is kept available on the surface for rescue whenever possible. (The part of the rope used to rescue the victim is called the rescue rope in this section.) This is accomplished by tying climbers to the rope at appropriate intervals (see Glacier Travel, page 6-103). The rescue rope can then be passed to the victim over a prepared section of the crevasse edge so it will not cut into the snow when loads are applied.
The principles of a crevasse rescue system are:
• Arrest the fall.
• Create a rescue anchor.
• Transfer the load to the anchor.
• Assess the situation.
• Attend to the victim.
• Prepare the edge of the crevasse.
• Extend the anchor.
• Rescue the victim.

If Someone Falls In
Arresting the fall
Climbers on the surface hold the load by self arrest, digging in feet, hands, etc. to stop the falling climber as soon as possible. The guide can now create a temporary anchor (if necessary) in preparation for building a rescue anchor or moving forward on the rope with a prusik for self belay if required.
Rescue anchors
Crevasse rescue anchors are generally built at the location of the climber nearest the crevasse. Building an anchor closer makes more rescue rope available, however, room must be allowed for the anchor extension and movement of the rescuer and rescue system.
Creating an anchor behind the climber nearest the crevasse is generally impractical. If this is necessary (e.g. the climber nearest the crevasse is so close it is not safe to build a rescue anchor at that point) careful planning for removing that climber from the rope to a safe position is required.

Load transfer
Once the fall is arrested and an anchor is created, the load of the fallen climber is transferred to the anchor.
Once the load transfer is complete, backup the prusik by clipping the rope to the anchor with a locking carabiner and figure 8 on a bight.
Once load transfer and the backup are accomplished, the rescuer(s) can be untied from the rope. If a belay for rescuer(s) is required during the rescue, a sling can be tied to the anchor or hitched to the rope and connected to the rescuer's harness.

Situation Assessment
The guide moves to the edge of the crevasse using a self belay if necessary and probing to find the edge of the crevasse. The condition of the fallen climber and the situation in general is assessed and the next stage of the rescue planned.

It is essential that the guide make contact with the victim as soon as possible and determine what the priorities in the rescue will be. Remember that irreversible damage can occur in four to six minutes if a victim is not breathing.

Expeditionary situations
On expeditonary climbs the victim is often accompanied by a heavy pack and sled, one or both of which may be attached to the rope. This can complicate crevasse rescue. It is unlikely the victim can be extricated with the pack and the sled and it will likely be very difficult to untie the sled and/or pack from the rope.
Because of these complications and weight of the victim’s loads, guides should consider hauling the victim first, then hauling packs and/or sleds. This requires victims to unclip from their tie-in point on the rope once the haul system has raised them enough to create some slack.

Preparing the crevasse edge
Generally speaking, the edge of the crevasse will have to be prepared no matter what the next step will be. The exception may be if the victim's life is threatened; in that case the guide may be justified in descending as quickly as possible with only rudimentary or no preparations of the crevasse edge. If there is no snow or the snow at the edge is very shallow and the belay rope is on ice, no preparation or minimal preparation only may be appropriate.
When preparation is required, the edge of the crevasse is carefully examined and overhanging snow removed. It may be necessary to create a step or trench to facilitate moving the victim over the edge. A pack, ice axe, etc. is placed at the edge and secured. The rescue rope is run over this “padding” to prevent it from cutting into the snow at the edge when it becomes loaded during the rescue. The rope supporting the fallen climber is freed from the snow and placed over the padding at the prepared edge at this time if possible, if not, this should be done later in the rescue when the belay rope can be freed. Once the edge is prepared the guide is in a position to:
• Attend to the victim (if required).
• Extend the anchor (if required).
• Implement an appropriate crevasse rescue system”

“Crevasse Rescue Part 2Overview: Often the easier methods of crevasse rescue are forgotten or ignored as rescuers try to set up unnecessarily elaborate systems. Lowering systemsIt may be possible to lower the victim, either to a more comfortable stance before raising them or to a ledge, ramp, or snow bridge from which they can walk or climb out of the crevasse. This should be a primary consideration whenever possible.Climbing outIt may be possible for the victim to climb out of the crevasse while being belayed from above using the belay or rescue rope. This should be a primary consideration whenever possible.Simple Haul and Two Team HaulSimple haulIf there are enough climbers on the surface, have them pull the victim from the crevasse by simply hauling on the rope. The belay rope is belayed in some fashion at the anchor to prevent the victim from falling should the rescuers lose their grip. This should be a primary consideration whenever enough people are available.Two team haulIf two teams are available the first team arrests the fall and holds the victim while the second approaches the edge and sends a rescue rope to the victim. The person who drops the rope to the victim will be the team leader, co-ordinating all aspects of the rescue and must exercise care approaching the edge; staying tied in to the rope or self belaying using a prusik and probing are usually required. If this team can get a rope to the victim relatively quickly it may not be necessary for the first team to build anchor and transfer the load. If an anchor is not built the first team belays the victim by moving forward in the self arrest position as the second team hauls the victim. Caution is required to ensure the victim is not injured in this process. The guide must coordinate the haul and maintain contact with the victim whenever practical.”

“Glacier Travel: Fundamentals: Detecting Crevasses The first step in safe glacier travel is figuring out where the crevasses are and picking a route through them. Routefinding on many glaciers is part planning, part experience, and part luck.You can sometimes get a head start on the planning by studying photos of the glacier before the trip, because some crevasse patterns remain fairly constant from year to year. Seek out recent reports from parties who have visited the area. On the approach hike, try for a good up-valley or cross-valley look at the glacier before reaching it. You may see an obvious route that would be impossible to discover once you?re there. Consider making notes or sketches to help in remembering major crevasses, landmarks, and routes. Guidebook photos and distant views are useful, but prepare to be surprised. What appeared to be small cracks may be gaping chasms, and major crevasses may have been hidden from the angle of your view. Plan alternative routes from a distance if you can. Once you?re on the glacier, it?s a continuous game of Find the Crevasse. Just because you can?t see them doesn?t mean there aren?t any. Important tips for detecting crevasses Keep an eye out for sagging trenches in the snow that mark where gravity has pulled down on snow over a crevasse. A sagging trench on the surface of the snow is a prime characteristic of a hidden crevasse. The sags will be visible by their slight difference in sheen, texture, or color. The low-angle light of early morning and late afternoon tend to accentuate this feature. (The sags may be impossible to detect in the flat light of a fog or in the glare of a midafternoon sun, and it takes additional information to distinguish them from certain wind forms.) Be wary after storms. New snow can fill a sagging trench and make it blend it into the surrounding surface. (At other times, however, the new snow can actually make the sagging trench more apparent by creating a hollow of new snow that contrasts with surrounding areas of old snow.) Be especially alert in areas where you know crevasses form, such as where a glacier makes an outside turn and where slope angle increases. Sweep your eyes to the sides of the route regularly, checking for open cracks to the left or right. Cracks could hint at the presence of crevasses extending beneath your path. Remember that where there is one crevasse there are often many.Snow Probing Snow probing is the technique to use if you have found a suspicious-looking area and want to search it for crevasses. If your probe locates a crevasse, continue probing to find its true lip. Probe with your ice ax, thrusting the shaft into the snow a couple of feet ahead of the snow you are standing on. Keep the ax perpendicular to the slope and thrust it in with a smooth motion. You need an ax with a uniform taper from the spike to the shaft, because a blunt spike or jutting ferrule makes it hard to feel the snow. If resistance to the thrust is uniform, you have established that the snow is consistent to at least the depth of your ax. If resistance lessens abruptly, you?ve probably found a hole. If your route must continue in the direction of this hole, use further ax thrusts to establish its extent. The leader should open up the hole and mark it with wands. The value of probing depends on your skill and experience at interpreting the changes felt in the snow layers. An inexperienced prober may think the shaft broke through into a hole when all it really did was hit a softer layer of snow. The length of the ice ax becomes a limiting factor in probing. The lead climber can also carry an avalanche probe ski pole, which is lighter, longer, and thinner than the ax for easier, deeper probes.”

“What is a moraine?
A moraine is a land formation, such as mound or ridge, that was created by the movement of a glacier. Moraines are made of material that was deposited by a glacier, such as gravel, clay, or sand.
Types of moraines

Lateral moraines
Lateral moraines are parallel ridges of till deposited along the sides of a glacier. The unconsolidated debris is deposited on top of the glacier by frost shattering of the valley walls and from tributary streams flowing into the valley. The till is carried along the glacial margin until the glacier melts. Because lateral moraines are deposited on top of the glacier, they do not experience the postglacial erosion of the valley floor and therefore, as the glacier melts, lateral moraines are usually preserved as high ridges. Lateral moraines stand high because they protect the ice under them from the elements, which causes it to melt or sublime less than the uncovered parts of the glacier. Multiple lateral moraines may develop as the glacier advances and retreats.
Medial moraines
Medial moraines are till covered areas found in the center of glacial ice. Generally there are no immediate signs of medial moraine once this ice has melted.
Ground moraines
Ground moraines are till covered areas with irregular topography and no ridges often forming gently rolling hills or plains. It is accumulated under the ice by lodgement, but may also be deposited as the glacier retreats. The ground moraine is located between the two lateral moraines.
End or terminal moraines
End moraines or terminal moraines are ridges of unconsolidated debris deposited at the snout or end of the glacier. They usually reflect the shape of the glacier's terminus. Glaciers act much like a conveyor belt carrying debris from the top of the glacier to the bottom where it deposits it in end moraines. End moraine size and shape is determined by whether the glacier is advancing, receding or at equilibrium. The longer the terminus of the glacier stays in one place the more accumulation there will be. There are two types of end moraines, terminal and recession moraines. Terminal moraines mark the maximum advance of the glacier. Recessional moraines are small ridges left as a glacier pauses during its retreat. After a glacier retreats the end moraine may be destroyed by postglacial erosion.




Glacier Deposition and Moraines
The awesome force of a glacier or ice sheet can carve impressive valleys, such as Yosemite Valley, and can bulldoze wide swaths of continents. The rock and soil picked up and transported by glaciers creates new landscapes as it is eventually deposited by melting and retreating glaciers.
"Drift" is the generic term for all glacially deposited material. The term is derived from the old theory that rock and soil deposits around the world were not produced by glaciers or ice sheets, but were deposited by the Great Flood of biblical fame.
Here's a short glossary of different types of glacial and ice sheet depositions:
Glacial flour - rock ground to the texture of a fine powder. It usually flows out of a glacier as sediment in a glacial meltwater stream running from the glacier.
Till - refers to an unconsolidated and unsorted mixture of sediment, clay, gravel, and rocks deposited by a glacier.
Moraine - a French word that refers to any glacier-formed accumulation - there are a variety of moraines.
Terminal moraine - an accumulation at the outermost edge of where a glacier or ice sheet existed.
Recessional moraine - moraine located "behind" the outermost edge of a glacier, formed when the glacier lingers in one spot for a long time.
Ground moraine - gently rolling hills and plains deposited by ice.
Lateral moraine - ridges of till on the sides of a glacier.
Medial moraine - a moraine formed when two glaciers merge (a tributary and trunk glacier) and their lateral moraines come together to form a single moraine.
Push moraine - a moraine created by till that was a moraine deposited by an earlier glacier that once covered the area.
Ablation moraine - a moraine formed from material that fell upon the glacier.
Glacial erratics - large boulders that had been carried by the ice and deposited. They are much different in size than surrounding till.”

“Backpack: Highcountry: Hiking on Scree & TalusIf you're used to well-groomed packed dirt trails, the mountains have a surprise waiting for you just above that first rocky rise: Scree - the crumbling stuff that you skid down on - and Talus - the bigger rock rubble (boulders and slabs) that forms a high-altitude obstacle course. Both can be very nerve-racking: Having the ground move beneath your feet.Climbing scree.Climbing scree is a little like climbing a sand dune: You can work awfully hard and end up in pretty much the same place you started. But unlike sand on a dune, scree isn't very deep. You can actually kick steps into it and get purchase with the front of your boots. Even so, it's a laborious way to climb. Another choice is to try to switchback by traversing the slope and gaining a little elevation at a time. This makes the climb less steep. As you ascend, you'll probably see bigger rock chunks here and there. These can make good footholds, but test them first since they are subject to the same law of gravity that keeps trying to pull you downhill: Climbing scree is a little like climbing a sand dune: You can work awfully hard and end up in pretty much the same place you started. But unlike sand on a dune, scree isn't very deep. You can actually kick steps into it and get purchase with the front of your boots. Even so, it's a laborious way to climb. Another choice is to try to switchback by traversing the slope and gaining a little elevation at a time. This makes the climb less steep. As you ascend, you'll probably see bigger rock chunks here and there. These can make good footholds, but test them first since they are subject to the same law of gravity that keeps trying to pull you downhill: A stable-looking rock could be sitting on an unstable layer of scree that will start to slide just as you put your foot on it.Hiking on talus.Talus, otherwise called a boulder field, is made up of big broken rock chunks. Moving on it can be difficult: Big rocks force you to take bigger steps (which is hard on the knees going down and requires strength going up) from one rock to the other. You also need good balance, because all the while the rocks can be moving underfoot.The key to talus travel, whether you're going uphill or down, is to always look several steps ahead. That way, if a rock starts to shift and throw you off balance, you can simply hop to the next one without taking time to think. Climbing is easier than descending: Going up, you're fighting gravity; but going down, gravity is tugging at your balance and can pull you somewhere you may not want to go. The best way to climb up is to take a diagonal route. Not only is it less strenuous than the straight-up .approach, it's also safer for your hiking partners below you, who could be hit if you dislodge a loose rock.Going downhill on talus can be frustrating, nerve-racking, and hard on the knees. Beginners usually go one rock at a rime, trying always to stay balanced and in control. Far easier is hopping from rock to rock in a controlled dance with gravity. To practice, try moving downhill on rocks without your pack. Keeping your knees bent, hop from one to the next. Use a side-to-side motion; it's slower and easier to control. (Side-to-side is easier on the knees, too, than going straight downhill.) Likewise, choose a less steep lateral route whenever possible. Whether you're traveling fast or slow on talus, hiking sticks help: You can use them to take the weight off your knees for big steps, to test the stability of rocks, or to fine-tune your balance on a fast decent. However, if you've got bad knees or a heavy load, or if the descent is simply too frightening to attack head-on, you may have to resort to the tried-and-true and one-step-at-a-time approach.”

“Bug Off: Tips To Keep Away Insects Tips to beat the most annoying backwoods biters Wear light-colored, protective clothing. Loose-fitting, long-sleeve shirts and pants made of tightly woven fabrics are best. Zippers beat buttons. Tuck in wherever possible and seal with duct tape if necessary. Finally, wear a head net. Avoid floral-scented soaps, hair sprays, and deodorants. Biters home in on such smells, as well as sweat, body heat, and carbon dioxide. Pace yourself to avoid breathing too hard, and wear venting clothing to keep perspiration to a minimum. Be choosy about your campsites. "Mosquitoes tend to concentrate in very isolated areas, especially around marshes and in the deep woods where depressions collect melted snow," says Bruce Eldridge, director of the University of California Mosquito Research Project. Blackfly populations, too, are greater in the vicinity of water-especially near pristine, fast-moving streams. Solution? Whenever possible, stay out of the shadows and steer toward windy areas like ridges and mountaintops. And when you pitch your tent, pick your perch carefully. "Try to camp where it's dry,"  "If you're right next to their breeding grounds, it's gonna be bad." Build a low-impact campfire if regulations allow. The smoke tends to discourage biters. Talk to the locals before you go. Biter populations are so variable it only makes sense to chat it up with those in the know. Try hunting and fishing stores, guides and outfitters, and chambers of commerce. In areas where blackflies and mosquitoes can be really heinous (northern latitudes in particular for blackflies), the locals watch the hatch patterns very carefully and often know just where to go to avoid the current crop. Calm the itch if the biting buggers still manage to get to you. Two multipurpose remedies for use in the field: Make a paste of baking soda and water, then dab it on the bite; or, rub on a bit of Preparation H ointment.”

“How to Thwart Mosquitoes
Mosquitoe bites can be simply annoying or dangerous depending on where you are. Learn how to fend off their attacks.
Paddling the gently meandering Isabella River takes you through marshes that abound with moose and other creatures. Unfortunately, in June those low-lying, windless marshes also abound with the kind of wildlife that can send a trip south faster than a whining partner on a long portage: clouds of thirsty mosquitoes. Don't let the buggers buzz between you and the best weather and fishing found in these parts; take a cue from the locals, who fight back on multiple fronts.

Catch a breeze: Stick to windy shorelines, rocky points, and ridgetops. In camp, sit facing the wind with your hood up; the mosquitoes will cloud behind your head.

Tone it down: Neutral colors fool mosquitoes, which are attracted to contrasts of light and dark.

Cover up: Wear long pants (tuck hems into socks) and a long-sleeved shirt with a collar. A head net offers effective protection. Put on a billed cap to keep the netting at a comfortable distance from your nose and mouth.

Clean up: Biting bugs are drawn to the ammonia in your sweat, as well as sweet-smelling soaps. Both are good reasons to enjoy a suds-free skinny dip before dinner.

Hide or flee: Mosquitoes are most voracious at dawn and dusk. Chill in your tent, or if you're out, hike at a brisk pace.

Go nuclear: Slather on the deet, which is still the most effective repellent around. Apply directly to exposed skin and clothing, but beware--deet damages some synthetic fabrics. Don't use it on infants younger than 2 months, or on any child in a concentration higher than 30 percent.”

“How to Keep Bears Away
Learn your black bears from your brown bears then figure out how to keep them away from your camp.

Tell black from brown: A black bear has a light-colored muzzle, and is generally smaller and lacks the muscular shoulder hump and dish-shaped face of a brown bear (grizzly). Browns can be found only in remote areas of Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Alaska, and western Canada.

Cook wisely: A bear's sense of smell is 7 times greater than a bloodhound's. Prepare meals at least 100 yards from camp. After your meal, change clothes and secure food in a bear bag or a hard-shell canister.

Discharge pepper spray: Aim for the bear's eyes and face, and pull the trigger when a charging bear is within 40 feet. Most canisters create a visible 30-foot cone of spray. Once the bear is disoriented, leave the scene as quickly as possible and report the incident to local authorities.”

“The First 30 Seconds What you can do to thwart a panic attack in two common crisis situations  Bear encounterSituation: You turn a corner in Glacier National Park to see a grizzly 50 feet away -- and coming down the trail.Reaction "You're probably going to panic, so channel your fear into positive action." Stand still, even if you want to run. Holding your ground shows the bear that you can defend yourself. Wait for it to react, or move away. Rehearse an action plan beforehand. Keep groups close together and always put an adult at the front. Pepper spary is both a useful deterrent and strong psychological security. Practice unholstering the canister until you can do it without looking or fumbling. Keep the spray at ready when traveling through prime bear zones like huckleberry patches and dense foliage.Getting lostSituation: Your uneasiness is confirmed when the trail dwindles to a game path.Even when your life is not in immediate danger, you can panic.  It's a physical response to a potential threat,  Hyperventilation, a racing heartbeat, nausea, and loss of small motor skills can make you act irrationally. Calm down by sitting down," says Gino Ferri, author of The Psychology of Wilderness Survival. "Then, eat and drink something." Because thoughts dictate your actions, rein in your imagination by taking an inventory: Where is the nearest road? How much water do I have? Stop panic from overtaking a group by being authoritative yet cool. Strong, soothing leadership is reassuring to others.
last edited: 7/26/09 4:27:18 PM”

“Glacial Rivers
Wild and silty rivers run from the park's glaciers to its coastlines. These rivers look different and act different than most rivers. Icy cold temperatures, fluctuating levels, changing channels and heavy loads of silt and rock can challenge hikers, boaters and anglers.
Wide Rocky Beds and Braids
Moving glacial ice scours chunks of bedrock and fine rock flour from the mountainsides. These chunks and bits of rock are mixed into glacier ice and then released in its meltwaters. Large rocks drop out of the stream flow immediately. Smaller ones roll away downstream where they lodge in the river's channels, filling them and eventually diverting the river to a new course. Glacial rivers are constantly shifting from one channel to another, forming many braids in a wide rocky bed. These uneven shifting rocks can be difficult for a hiker to negotiate.

Silty Water
Fine rock flour washes downstream with the glacier's meltwater. In Chugach the dominant rock is graywacke which colors the streams a muddy gray-brown. These opaque waters hide the river bottom, making crossing on foot uncertain and navigating a boat difficult.

High Water Happens When It's Hot
Most rivers drop during long hot summers. Glacial rivers rise! Glaciers melt more on hot, sunny days. Close to a glacier, river levels rise dramatically on sunny afternoons and drop during cool early morning hours. Rainstorms also increase glacial melt, as well as add their own runoff to a river. Occasionally, large rainstorms will swell glacial rivers and fill all channels from shore to shore. Evidence of these floods is seen in the piles of driftwood left high and dry on gravel islands.


Low Water Happens When It's Not
When days shorten and temperatures drop, so do the rivers. Visitors will hardly recognize these rivers in the winter. Raging torrents become small shallow streams of clear sparkling water...that is, until they freeze over!
To Cross or Not To Cross
Many trails and routes in Alaska will lead you to unbridged streams and rivers. Because the water can be cold, opaque and subject to quickly changing levels, a few tips can make your stream crossing safer and more comfortable.

Choose your site
At marked ford sites (like those on the Crow Pass Trail), cross directly between the posts on either side. It's the most shallow place. At unmarked sites, cross at the widest and most shallow place. Avoid cutbanks. Test the water depth with a walking stick or by throwing fist-sized stones ahead and listening to the splash.

Choose your time
Glacial rivers swell under hot sun or heavy rains, and are usually lowest during early morning hours (6 a.m.). If a river looks or feels too full to cross, wait. It may drop significantly. Remember, you never have to cross. You can go back the way you came, or sit and wait for help.

Fuel your body
Adequate food and water will help your body create the necessary energy to fight hypothermia.

Loosen pack straps
and undo the waistbelt so you can drop it if you fall. Seal important items (sleeping bag, dry clothes) in plastic.

Dress Properly
The right clothing will keep you safe and a lot more comfortable. Always wear shoes or boots. Cold temperatures can cause numbness and missteps that lead to foot injuries, a disaster in the backcountry. Don't cross in bare legs. Wear quick drying wool or synthetics, but never cotton. Save something warm and dry for the other side, just in case.

Use a good technique
If you are crossing alone, use a stick for extra stability and to explore the bottom. Face the opposite shore or face upstream and cross slowly, letting your feet feel their way. Don't look at the water. Keep your eyes on the far shore to prevent vertigo. Crossing as a group is safer. Stand along the shore in a line, side-by-side, facing the opposite shore. Put the largest and strongest people on the upstream end, and sandwich smaller or weaker people between others. Link arms, or link arms while sharing a stick like a handrail. Enter the water all at the same time, keeping your eyes on the far shore to prevent vertigo.

If you fall,
ditch your gear, and swim. Roll over on your back, point your feet downstream so you can fend off boulders. Keep your feet high-don't get them wedged on the bottom. Flipper with your arms toward shore. As soon as you reach shore, get warm and dry. Hypothermia can be a killer.”

“We will see Glacier silt build up as Quicksand.....Appearance]
Part of quicksand's menace is its deceptive resemblance to solid ground. Underneath the firm-looking crust–which can be sand, silt, clay, or other grainy soils–is a slurry of soft, wet, quivering earth nicknamed "jelly mud." Unlike regular mud, which compresses to support weight, this quagmire collapses easily. The water that saturates the soil (and creates the muck) often flows underground [1] and isn't visible on the surface, though quicksand also can develop beneath shallow pools.
[Formation] Quicksand requires only soil and water–in the right amounts. When the ground is dry, the constant friction between individual sand grains creates a stable, interlocking foundation. But when the ground becomes saturated, water molecules push apart the grains, reducing the intergranular friction and the soil's weight-bearing ability. The soil becomes "quick" when the water pressure supporting the sand equals or surpasses the weight of the sand, [2] creating a floating suspension with the consistency of wet concrete that will trap your leg, and won't let it go.
[Catalyst]
Salt makes quicksand less stable, especially in clay-like soil, by reducing the elasticity between sand grains. As a result, people generally sink deeper in ground saturated with saltwater than with freshwater. Salt eroded from sandstone canyon walls in southern Utah generates an ideal environment for quicksand when it accumulates in silt-filled arroyos.
[Location]
Quicksand typically forms along the inside curves of rivers and sand washes, [a] where natural springs or runoff saturate an area of soft sediments. Other common spots include marshes, coastlines, and riverbanks. Quicksand can be persistent in canyons fed by spring water, and can appear rapidly after floods, spring run-off, or during low tide [b]. Post-flood conditions can be particularly dangerous, says Mike Salamacha, a BLM ranger in the Arizona/Utah Paria Canyon Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. "Everything is wet, and you can't tell where the quicksand is until you walk on it." Quicksand can develop from Alaska to Florida, but hotspots include the marshy coasts of the Southeast, such as Florida and the Carolinas, and the canyons of southern Utah, northern Arizona, and New Mexico.
[Escape]
Don't struggle. Since the human body is half as dense as quicksand, you won't sink much below your knees, or to your waist under rare circumstances. Fighting the suctionlike pull can be exhausting–especially if you're hauling a heavy pack–and can cause you to sink deeper by making the solution more fluid. To extract yourself, stay calm and lean backwards to spread out your weight while backstroking to firmer ground. Kick your legs slowly to loosen the surrounding sand, and move deliberately toward the edge. Ditch your pack if necessary. In areas prone to quicksand, like canyons and marshes, use a stick or trekking pole to probe the surface.
last edited: 7/26/09 4:43:11 PM”