Ice Axe Size Chart

“I have just wasted 30 minutes trying to find a size chart for ice axes. I'm 5'8". What length should I get?

I'm looking at one of the following if for no other reason then the Mount Hood Guides were using them..

http://www.e-omc.com/catalog/products/1436/Black-Diamond-Raven-Pro-Ice-Axe.html
http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0243/Black-Diamond-Raven-Ice-Axe.html?avad=397_3676_df_5546_1274298

Thanks in advance for your help...

'32oz”

“Here is a good discuss of ice axe length, and why a chart recommending a short length for all types of climbing might be the best recommendation:

http://patentpending.blogs.com/patent_pending_blog/2006/04/ice_axes.html

The Petzl snowscopic ice axe, which has a telescoping spike portion:

http://patentpending.blogs.com/patent_pending_blog/2005/11/the_petzlcharle.html”

“It used to be that they recommended for general use that it was just above the ground when you held it in you hand with your arm down by your side - but like bob said some now prefer a much sorter axe for everything.”

“Thank you for the info.. I'm thinking that I used a 65, but I also recall wishing that I had something a little longer...

'32oz
'65cm”

“Fashion has a lot to do with it. Right now the trend is toward shorter axes. I was taught that, with your mountaineering boots on, grasp the head of the axe and let the shaft hang naturally - it should not touch the ground. Some say to do it with crampons on, but I think there would be a difference between snow and hard surface and the axe would be too long in practice. The idea is that it is not a hiking stick and should not get in the way.

That would be for 'general' mountaineering. Newer activities are tending toward the shorter, more technical problems more related to ice climbing than long or multi-day efforts and feature bent or curved shafts and odd-angled heads.

All that being said, I strongly suggest a course with a UIAA qualitifed instructor as it is impossible to provide safety, or safe beta by writing.

Knowing how to use the equipment is much more important than the equipment itself. Incorrect use can be extremely dangerous.

You can google the American Alpine Club and hook up with a section near you. Sections offer frequent training courses at a reasonable cost and you can use the provided equipment to see what is best and most comfortable for you.

As importnant as the length or style is the rating. Make sure you has a CE number stamped or etched on you gear. It is usually on the head. Some (American) companies avoid the costly rating process. I would not climb stairs with un-rated gear - my life is worth the money.

There will also be a shaft rating - B (for basic) and T (for technical). B is usually sufficient for recreational mountaineering. I would use only T shafts for ice climbing (these are 'ice tools' rather than axes) although some climbers prefer B blades because they are thinner.

Hope this helps,

Doug”

“I'm 5'5", BTW and use a Charlet T axe of 75 mm length, but then I'm a dinosaur.”

“I'm 5'5", BTW and use a Charlet T axe of 75 mm length, but then I'm a dinosaur.”

“Excuse me for the typo, but I meant that "a chart recommending a short length for all types of climbing might NOT be the best recommendation." There are times that I really like one that can be used as a walking stick.”

“I used the same method as Gremlin when I bought my axe. I'm 6'-0" and am using a 70mm (I have long arms) Black Diamond Raven.”

“Thanks Gremlin... I took a down and dirty class the day before we climbed Mount Hood, and while I'm definately not a pro, it did give me some confidence. I have been looking into classes including climbing classes, although that may have to wait a little..”

“Now that you mentioned it, I guess arm length really would matter...

Thanks again for all of the feed back, I was thinking about just getting one on line, but I guess I need to get my butt into a store...

'32oz”

“Like the canuck sez:

I was taught that, with your mountaineering boots on, grasp the head of the axe and let the shaft hang naturally - it should not touch the ground. Some say to do it with crampons on, but I think there would be a difference between snow and hard surface and the axe would be too long in practice. The idea is that it is not a hiking stick and should not get in the way.

yep - the piolet (or point) should be about at your ankle, probably below mid shin and just slightly above ankle. You want to be able to easily sink the point in the snow when carried in your uphill hand (as when traversing up a slope) without having to bend over (much, if any)”

“Depending on how technical of climbing you are going to be doing, you might look at the ULA Helix Potty Trowel. It weighs a scant 5 ounces versus the pound or more for most ice axes. They sell it as a trowel because it has not been tested by climbing associations, but I know many people use them as ice axes.

http://ula-equipment.com/helix.htm”

“I am about the same height. I use a 65cm. This what Mountain Madness recommened as did REI.”

“32oz.... go to the store and try out the different lengths, then buy on line to save $$. The Raven Pro is a decent axe, much lighter than the std Raven. It all depends on how much you want to spend :)”

“I wouldn't say much lighter. The raven pro is only 3.5 oz lighter. Still I probably would have gotten one but I bought the raven on clearance for about $35. The deal was too good to pass up.”

“Another argument against a short shaft is piolet clearance in self arrest.
A shaft length just clearing the ground is good advice, keeps the piolet down by your hip and nowhere near your stomach.”

“Good point.”

“Not if it ends up going into your gut. ;-)”