Another SNP Trip Report

“Due to a change in plans my hike up to Bear's Den Hostel had to be scrapped so I did the next best thing.. headed out to Shenandoah National Park (SNP).

Himaintenance and I left Richmond at about 1:00 on Saturday and drove through a bunch of rain as we headed west. Arriving at Rockfish Gap a little before 2:30 we proceedded North on Skyline Drive. The rain, while intermitant, never stopped so we decided to do a couple short hikes before finding a hut to sleep at.

For our first short hike we parked at Beagle Gap and took the AT south for a short mile to the top of Bear's Den Mountain. The view from the top (especially with the leaves down) was beautiful. Years ago some locals 'planted' 8-9 tractor seats up on top, and they are still there. Unfortunately they were a little to wet to sit in. The wind was blowing pretty good, so we didn't linger long, but on the way down I took a side trail to a look out point.. There in the sky was a double rainbow.. It was awesome.

Next we drove 5 miles North to Turk Gap. We parked and crossed Skyline Drive, taking the AT .2 miles to the Turk Mountain Trail. From there it is .9 miles to the summit. On our we up we spooked a grouse, and watched it scurry off into the woods. We reached the summit at about 4:10, and spent a few minutes there admiring the view. With the wind picking up, and the sun going down, we headed for the car.

Another 7 miles North we hit Black Rock Gap and parked. It is a .8 mile hike to the Black Rock Hut so we grabbed our packs and took off North on the AT..

We hit the side trail to the Hut and on our way down we heard some voice. I was a little puzzled because there were no other cars at Black Rock gap, and I couldn't believe that there would actually be any other nuts out in this weather.

Ironically, as we neared the hut, the people there were also wondering what idiots would be showing up at a hut near dark after a day of rain....

Low and behold, it was 7 members of the Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club, all of whom I had hiked with before...

After a failed attempt at a fire (Hyway where are you when I need you?) HM and I settled down to a dinner of Hot dogs smothered with Easy Cheese and White Wine... (Can you say Hiker Trash?) For desert I pulled out the Ritz Crackers, Hot Chocolate and Khalua... YUM..

We crashed in the shelter and woke up to ice puddles on the picnic table...

HM and I had discussed possible hikes for the day, and there was one in particular that I really wanted to do, so at 8:00 am after a breakfast of bagels and cheese, we set off.

Without sounding corny, out of all of the hiking that I have done in SNP (200+ miles) this was by far the most beautiful hike I have done.

We headed North on the AT approx .5 miles to Black Rock Summit. The AT circles around the summit, and we followed it until we reached the Black Rock Spur Trail. This trail leads .2 miles down to the Trayfoot Mountain Trail.

This trail is absolutely gorgeous. Upon reaching it, you descend for a short distance before starting a gradual ascent up to the summit. You actually reach the summit in about .3 miles, but what is so nice is once you reach the summit you stay up on the ridge.

Upon reaching the junction with the Furnace Mountain Trail (a trail I did on my Slack Packing with Suds Trip) we veered right, following the Trayfoot Mountain Trail South. We stayed up on the ridge for about 2 miles, crossing back and forth over the top. On the western side was rolling hills, and small villages, to the east was a valley and then a series of mountains leading back up to Skyline Drive. With the leaves down, we could see everything.

5.5 miles into the hike we hit the Paine Run Trail. We immediately crossed a tributary and then a few hundred yards later, we came upon a 'crik'... The creek was swollen due to the rain, and the crossing was dicey... I used the assistance of a downed tree, while HM jumped on the few rocks barely above water level... The ascent out of the valley is a gradual one. On the way we paced a ton of perfect camping spots, and had to cross many a swollen tributaries...

We arrived back at the car after an awesome 9 mile hike, and head to the same AYCE buffet that I hit last week..

After scarfinf down masssice quantities of King Crab Legs, followed by stuffed shrimp and sushi, we headed to Rockfish Gap Outfitters where I stocked up on Gatoraxde mix, bought a Granite Gear Bag and sized up an Osprey Aether 85 and Granite Gear Nimbus Latitude... decisions decisions..

then it was back onto 64 East and a return trip to reality..

'32oz
last edited: 11/16/08 5:37:18 PM”

“Great trip report. I've done these trails and they are indeed beautiful. Thanks for posting!”

“Good trip report, it brought back some memories.

BTW, how can one return to reality if they've never been there before?”

“Great report - so is this one in the Southern Section of the park. I've mainly done the north and central sections.”

“Yes, it's at about MP 87..

I have found that for the most part the northern half has the nicer waterfalls, the southern half has some of the better mid to long distance hikes...

'32oz”

“Hot Dogs and Wine? LOL

Thanks for the report.”

“I did a section hike in the SNP from Thorton Gap to Lewis Mtn Campground. I parked at Lewis Mtn Campground on Friday afternoon. I got a ride to the Panorama at Thorton Gap by this nice looking lady, hubba hubba…….she could shuttle me anytime. Anyway….what was I saying…OH, the trip, yeah.

I hiked up to Marys rock and stayed in Byrds Nest 3 shelter. A thru hiker stopped and put something in the log but was heading on to the next one. Later as it got dark another stopped to stay so there were only 2 of us there. I wasn’t sure sometimes if he was talking to me or himself, he was a little left of center. The mice started coming out and I saw one on my stuff. HELL NO. I took my hiking pole and took the little sucker out along with three of his Posse over the next 30 min. Had a mass grave going outside….a good mouse is a dead one. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=127424062&albumID=2400990&imageID=38062535 On Saturday I headed for Rock Springs Shelter. I stopped at Stony Man Mtn for pics, stopped at Skyland for water. I also took the trail over the top of Hawksbill Mtn, which was a good climb.

I was the first at the Rock Springs Shelter, which filled up pretty quick with thru hikers. That group was pretty sane and not over the top. Two people had started there and was heading south. That night was very very windy and cold even in the shelter. On Sunday there wasn’t much scenery on the way to Bearfence shelter. I was hiking up Hazeltop and of course nature called, unfortunately it was a busy trail with a lot of day hikers. I finally had the trail to myself and needed to “lighten the load”…..found a nice secluded spot over a little hill and behind a fallen tree. Well, in the middle of the “incident” I heard a female voice from behind say “hey”. Ohhhhh, the blood seemed to rush from everywhere to everywhere. I would say it scared the #&%!$ out of me, but it was too late for that. When I turned around I didn’t see anyone, but when the wind blew again it was two trees rubbing together. It sounded exactly like “hey” to me, even the second time. I was shocked at what goes through your head in the split second something like that happens. I was so glad it wasn’t a real person….not my best side.

Anyway, I hiked on and went over the Bearfence rock scramble. It is very cool, easier if you don’t have a pack on and easier if you don’t do it at the end of the day after hiking all day. I got to Bearfence shelter first….again….didnt take long to fill up. Later on we spotted a juvenile bear and I go some good pictures of it. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=127424062&albumID=2400990&imageID=38063529 Two thru hikers showed up, the first order of business for them was to throw their beer in the spring, open one and start passing the pipe. As it was getting dark I didn’t think Cheech and Chong would ever stop piling wood on the fire. Comical to see two stoned people discuss a strategy on how to pack more wood on the fire. At one point Chong said “f*@# it, lets burn it all”…..referring to what, I don’t know. But, I hung all my stuff on a high nail so his short little ass wouldn’t burn it. I had fun and met some nice people, I cant wait to do another section of the SNP.
last edited: 5/11/09 4:52:22 PM”

“Hahaha. I hate pinching off early! Thanks for the laugh and the trip report.”

“LOL! Great trip report and great pictures. The views were beautiful. The bear sure was cute, and the mice were too before you offed the little buggers.

Next time you do a trip up there, I would love to tag along.
last edited: 5/11/09 4:50:32 PM”

“Awesome picts, nemster..
although I'm not sure whether 'offing the rodents' adheres to the Leave no Trace Ethics...

Can't wait to get out there for a few days in June...

'32oz”

“Well, the mice were already there, so technically I didnt "leave" anything.”

“You left the carcasses... I have a message into Leavenotrace.com to get a verdict...

Unfortunately PETA monitors that site as well... I wouldn't hike alone too much anymore if I were you...

'32oz
last edited: 5/12/09 8:21:32 AM”

“Mice in the shelter are very unnerving....one caused me to bust a lip one eve a very long time ago on the AT.....

Great pics...thanks for sharing!!!
last edited: 5/12/09 8:56:29 AM”

“I was worried the rest of the Posse were watching and that they were gonna jack me in the middle of the nite. Little bastards.”

“Hightop Hut is notorious for mice.. I would imagine the moce at Byrd's nest are from the picnicers who used to frequent that spot...

'32oz”

“Last weekend. Nemster and I had a great hike from Blackrock Gap to Lewis Mountain Campground in Shenandoah National Park, a distance of about 30 miles. We met the Mountain and Valley Shuttle Service at Lewis Mountain on Thursday. Rodney shuttled us to Blackrock Gap and we hit the trail around 3:00. We did a brisk 12 mile hike to Pinefield Hut, hoping to dodge a threatening thunderstorm and get a couple of spots in the shelter for the night. When we arrived around 7:30, there were already many people standing around the shelter so we headed straight for the campsites and set up for the night.

Shortly after we hit the sack, we could hear the rumble of a thunderstorm in the distance and see flashes of lightening. As the storm got closer and closer, the lightening lit up the hill side and the rumble turned to a roar. One cracked really close to the tent and scared the crap out of me. I thought we might have to put to use the training I had at Outward Bound on how to survive a lightening storm…squat down, elbows on your knees, hands on your chin, kiss you arse goodbye. Instead, I shoved my earplugs into my ears, rolled over, and pretended it was only raining outside.

The next day we had a leisurely 8 mile hike to Hightop Hut, so we took our time getting ready. Packed up the wet tent, ate breakfast, did some morning chores and hit the trail. The trail was absolutely beautiful. A few weeks ago the woods were still brownish; now they were lush green and there were sweet wildflowers everywhere. We saw colorful collections of pink, white and painted trillium spread among the woodland floor, with each of them calling out “Look at me! Look at me! I’m the prettiest!!” We also discovered jack in the pulpit, wild geranium, bluets, hepatica, wonderfully fragrant pink azaleas, violets and many others I still need to identify. We also saw plenty of very tame dear who only barely moved off the trail for us, all the time giving us an uninterested stare.

We were the first to arrive at Hightop Hut, unless you count the gaggles of ticks everywhere. In a couple of hours, more section hikers and thru hikers showed up. Sadie and Ben, a very young couple out to hike the AT in the park, settled in. They told us they didn’t know that they could re-supply in the park and ended up carrying two weeks worth of food. No wonder their packs were 50 pounds! I offered to mail some stuff home for them.

Next Chef arrived and was soon cooking up some grub with wild onion he found along the way. Moses came in next, looking all the part of the biblical Moses and smelling like the quintessential thru hiker. He showed us a pile of huge yellow morels he had collected along the trail. Yummers! He had interesting information to pass along about the birds in the area. Birches showed up last with a handful of wild ginger which he added to his ramen noodles, along with some morels he had found. Next time I think I will leave the freezer bag cooking dinner at home!

As night fell, Nemster and I settled in on the top bunk. My 30 degree bag proved to be much too hot for the temperature that night. I thought about sleeping on top of my bag but I didn’t want to take me feet out of the bag but I didn’t because I just knew some mouse would be chewing on my toes during the night! Stupid, I know, but sometimes my imagination just works against me.

The next day we hiked about 12 miles to Lewis Mountain Campground. We probably hiked this much faster than necessary, but the lure of a nice warm shower, a cold drink and ice cream pulled us along. Soon Sadie and Ben showed up and dumped off their extraneous food and gear which I promised to mail to them.

Nemster and I had a great time. We are looking at finishing off the southern district soon and the northern district at some point.”

“"Sadie and Ben, a very young couple out to hike the AT in the park, settled in. They told us they didn’t know that they could re-supply in the park and ended up carrying two weeks worth of food. No wonder their packs were 50 pounds"


You have to wonder how much planning they did.. how could you NOT know that you could resupply?

Reminds me of one of the scouts this weekend.. Last Monday during our meeting we had a back pack shake down.. I spent an hour going over what to pack and what not to pack..

We went over food, and I pulled out the 4 king sized snicher bars, the soft taco (burrito)shells, the 16oz can of peanut butter, the ramon noodles and the 7oz pouch of chicken that my 16 year old son and I would be sharing. I told the parents that most extra weight comes from excess food, and not to have the scouts pack theirs on an empty stomach..

Anyway, on Saturday after hiking most of the day and then eating dinner, I had all of the scouts get their food out and lay it on the table so I could bear bag it...

As I started going through the plastic bags I noticed one that had a lot of food in it. I asked to whom it belonged, and a scout (whom we now call Sherpa) said it was his... I asked him if he thought he would be eating all of this (the kid literally weighs 68 pounds). He said no, that he didn't want to bring it all, but his mom said that it was better to pack too much then too little...

I proceeded to grab the next bag which was also stuffed with food. Again I asked to whom it belonged, and once again Sherpa raised his hand... I couldn't believe it.. I looked at the bags.. The scout had already eaten lunch and dinner, and I know he atem because I helped him boil the water. In his bag he had 7 slim jims, 4 breakfast bars, 2 snicker bars, at least 1 if not 2 pop tart packages, at least a pound of grapes, 3 oat meal packages, some hot chocolate (I think), and I'm sure I am forgetting something..

On Sunday morning as we were eating breakfast, I say 'Sherpa' literally begging scouts to eat his food so that he didn't have to carry it.. I almost volunteered to carry it out for him so he could show his mom how much food he had left, but I figured that I would just talk to her tonight..

'32oz”

“Moses came up to the shelter at a pretty fast pace. He had on what looked like these oversize steel toe high top logging boots on. He said he didn't have any foot problems yet. Wearing those big things they were probably like leather. He ate 2 double serving MH meals with morels. He has some kind of tea that he said kills the gas he gets from Mointain House. Before it was dark he was in his bag snoring like a wounded bear. Everyone was still up cooking or talking and he never woke up. But he was up and gone before I woke up.”

“Keep me posted on you SNP trips.. even if we don't hike together we can probably work some shuttles out.. I want to finish up hiking the blue blazed trails that I haven't done yet...

'32oz”

“Awesome trip reports, folks. Thanks!”

“Pictures from the trip. Not many vistas on this section, but got a lot of flower pictures.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=127424062&albumId=2408489”

“If you plan it right, you can ALMOST hike the entire SNP with little or no food. When I went through there I barely touched the food in my pack, of course it was a little expensive, but I thought it was worth it.

Great trip report.”