Back 2 Colorado?

“kodak moments on this trip...

my "retardian" traverse across a stream. that was pathetic. i'll never screw THAT up again. i only clipped into one of three lines (STUPID) and then clipped my petzl shunt to the lines i wasn't clipped into (STUPID). i got across but it was not pretty.

... french freeing a 5.6 (knee catcher). this was the exact opposite of graceful climbing. i generally climb 5.6 in my sleep but leading and placing gear on an offwidth crack proved more than my tired little bod could deal with. i would up grinding my way to the top one cam at a time... with fewer pieces than the route required... i had to back-clean as i climbed... recycled pieces until i was at the top. it was u-g-l-y ugly climbing. still, it was a good learning experience as roamaround followed and checked out my placements. i won't be so timid NEXT time!

oh, and when i started i tied into my belay loop... or started to. i was just so excited to start climbing. what a n00b move!

wait... i forgot to carry the rope on the first day in. we needed two ropes and roam had the rack plus one rope. not thinking i (selfishly) grabbed my gear and headed for the crag. when we got there roam made some comment about only having one rope and i realized my gaff. so i walked back to the car and got the other rope.

then there was the pitch on white whale where the rope we were going to rap from got stuck in a crack when we pulled it down. i REFUSED to let roam cut the rope... it was a good rope after all! so i tied off on the end we had, led up to where the rope was stuck, and freed it... then down-climbed and cleaned at the same time. that was a little hair raising. i placed pro on the way up about 2x more frequently than i would normally knowing i was going to have to down climb.

lord only knows what i would have done had i actually been able to climb longs peak.

what fun!
last edited: 9/18/09 8:37:42 PM”

“oh wait! we did a sport route on the last day and after i led it i got to the top and yelled "off belay" (like it was a trad route and i was going to have him follow up belayed on the anchor.) i had clipped into the bolts and set up the top-rope when i realized my gaff. so roam lowered me. i cleaned the draws when i came down but left in one "directional" draw so on belay the rope would not be in the way. well i had roam tie into the wrong end of the rope which rendered the directional useless -and- made him have to clean the two draws i left on his ascent.

he is a good and patient climbing partner!
last edited: 9/18/09 8:42:28 PM”

“eh, it was all good fun... I wouldn't have really cut the rope - that would have been stupid. I was just cold and frustrated. :)

Here'a a few pics. :)



Good times! Dam good times!!

top moments -

* seeing Precision make his first moves roped up over that bulge.

* skittering a couple feet down when my feet blew out on the polished rock at the top of West Chimney (good ledge below me)

* the views from the top of the Lumpe Tower!!!!

* being so glad to hear Yogi say "I found the rap anchor" at the top of the freehanging Vertigo rappells.”

“great photos dude. makes me wish i had a camera again.”

“Now I now what it feels like to do crack.

That was such a fun time.

I friggin' gotta lose some weight, ggeezze”

“LOL

when i first took my son climbing we laffed about going to do crack together.

:)

ps... a climbing harness isn't flattering on anybody.”

“Looks like fun!”

“nah - it was miserable....










NOT!”