Prairie hiking tips wanted

“After the term ends next week, I'm heading out to Teddy Roosevelt N.P. in N.D. for some BPing, then on to S.D. to the Black Hills. The guide books are somewhere in the great UPS network.

I'll be going solo, and I'm hoping that some of you Great Plains denizens have some first-hand tips for camping in prairie and Badlands conditions, particularly such details as what you do with your food supply to keep critters out of it (not bear country, but no trees to hang it in anyway I suppose), and other unique camping situations that differ from the woods and mountains. Thanks in advance.”

“Take good care of your dogs!”

“Pekka, is Teddy Roosevelt NP on the road to anywhere? What else is around that I should see if I'm in the area?”

“Somebody hook him up, will ya?

I wanna do the northern plains, too -and am watching for info...”

“utahiker, the south unit is just north of I-94 near Medora in the SW corner of N.D. The north unit is about 90 miles north and much less visited (guess which unit I have my eye on). A colleague who's a N.D. native told me to see the Black Hills, and a number of nearby wilderness preserves. I'll have a better view of the whole area when those guidebooks show up. That's why I'm hoping for some of the Midwesterners to pipe up here.”

“Stay away from the buffalo! (Custer State Park and Wind Cave N'tl Park tips... maybe TRNP has buffalo, too? Add to appropriate list)

Make sure you have your free backcountry permit for camping in Wind Cave park.

THERE!! Two pretty darn obvious tips!!

Also, make a stop at the Cave Hills in northern SD. They're part of the Custer N'tl Forest, I believe, and should be right on the way. Here's a link about the area:

Custer N'tl Forest

Notice the program (although now full) on rock art in the Northern Cave Hills. I gotta check that out sometime. (Check under SD if this link doesn't take ya right there)

Rock Art in Cave Hills”

“Stay away from the buffalo! (Custer State Park and Wind Cave N'tl Park tips... maybe TRNP has buffalo, too? Add to appropriate list)

Make sure you have your free backcountry permit for camping in Wind Cave park.

THERE!! Two pretty darn obvious tips!!

Also, make a stop at the Cave Hills in northern SD. They're part of the Custer N'tl Forest, I believe, and should be right on the way. Here's a link about the area:

Custer N'tl Forest

Notice the program (although now full) on rock art in the Northern Cave Hills. I gotta check that out sometime. (Check under SD if this link doesn't take ya right there)

Rock Art in Cave Hills”

“Yeah, TRNP has buffalo and warnings about them. My colleague was trapped in a comfort station at a campground when a herd wandered in at daybreak and one buff took a particular interest in him when he came out of his tent. So buff caution is at the top of my list.

What about bugs? I figure the prairie must have its own instead of the Northwoods wood and deer ticks, and black flies. Any nasty ants, chiggers, etc.? (Everywhere has skeeters, don't they?)

I know from the darn tracking system that my guide books made it here to Rhinelander at 4:30 this morning, but they weren't waiting for me when I got home. Frustrating. Though I doubt they'll answer all my minor detail questions that will come up.

Hey gojo, whatever I learn I'll share with you and Sarabelle (get on up here in a bit over a week and I'll share gas expenses, too, LOL).”

“Tics will prolly be your only problem as far as bugs go in the Black Hills.
When you get to the Badlands NP, BRING YOUR OWN WATER INTO THE PARK!!!!!!!!! The water there at the Park HQ SUCKS!!!!
A nice area to BP from in the Badlands is from Sage Creek Wilderness”

“Sounds like a wonderful trip!

In tune with walkindude: Get used to the idea of carrying alot of water. I've used a "camelback" in addition to the regular nalgene (sp?) with great comfort.
Drink even though you're not thirsty!”

“I picked up a 4-liter MSR Dromalite water bag to supplement other containers, as well as a hydration system tube for it. Also have a Camelback Mule I may strap onto the main pack both for water and as a mini-daypack once camped.

On the National Geo. map of Badlands NP there's a missprint in the warning about water -- they left out the word NOT before the word potable after explaining how the water there has too many fine particles and dissolved minerals for filters and chemicals to successfully treat it.

The Little Missouri goes through the north unit of Teddy R. N.P. and may or may not be in condition for treatment (high water will mean high mud content).”

“About the time I was last on line, a stealth UPS person slipped up to the door and left the guide books. The dogs didn't even hear a knock. Now I have some reading: Exploring the Black Hills and Badlands by Hiram Rogers, which looks particularly good and comprehensive -- it has the TRNP trail info, and Hiking South Dakota's Black Hills Country by Bert & Jane Gildart, which is more focused.

I'm drooling over the options laid out in both. Prairie and badland hiking on the one hand, forest and mountain hiking on the other. A feast awaits me.”

“My favorite Area in the Black Hills is the Harney Peak Range. Beautiful area. You gotta hike up to the top of Harney Peak. Cathederal Spires Trail is by far the best route up. The Grizzley Bear Creek Trail is one of my favorite trails out there too. Plenty of water out there. You can also get on the Centennial Trail and take a spur trail up to the Rushmore heads. If you've never been there, It's a cool side trip.
The next time I'm out there, I wanna do the whole Centennial Trail.

I know you heard everybody else say it but BEWARE OF THE BUFFALO. Wind Cave NP and parts of Custer SP should be your only concerns about them in the Black Hills. They are everywhere in the Badlands. I've never been to TRNP so I can't help ya there.

I'll do my best to help ya with questions you may have.”

“I've got the Hiram Rogers book. It's good.... but where it is, I don't know! heheh”

“Thanks walkindude. One no one has yet dealt with from the first post: What do you do with your food when you are camping in open country, since you can't hang it out of small critters' (mice and other rodents or whatever) reach -- or is it not a problem?

Yeah, buff are the main warning in TRNP. The Black Hills info notes ticks as a concern, but should I guess that the prairie has its own types, such as buffalo ticks?

Did another 4-mile hike today, upping the load to 25lbs from 15 in the day pack. Didn't seem appreciatively different on the rolling woods trail. Boots doing well, and new liners (Fox River polypro/nylon with that silver impreg.) were excellent with the SmartWools. The forest is dry here, despite recent thunderstorms, and the bugs weren't bad, air was fresh -- breezy, sunny and upper 50s, and I felt really good.

I'm hoping that the prairie hiking will be a good step before the altitude in the Black Hills (may not be much to some, but it's quite a change from the Northwoods).”

“On the praire I just sleep with my food. There are no bears out there. mice are not a problem. Coyotes stay away. Buffalo aren't interested in people food. Gotta watch them jack-a-lopes though.”

“Oh yeah, on the prairie wear long pants and long steve shirt (loose fitting & light colored). You'll stay cooler that way. Drink LOTS of water. It's easy to dehydrate and not realize it. Don't skimp on water. It's worth the weight.
The elevation in the Black Hills isn't too bad. I love the Badlands but about 3 days there is about all I care to stand. The Black Hills is much funner in my Oppinion.”

“Another thing,
Stake your tent down while on the prairie. I was in a free standing tent a few years ago in the Badlands. The wind got under my tent and blew me 2 complete rolls while inside the tent. That will wake your @ss up quick. I suffered some cactus injections as well as my thermo-rest. I've still not patched all the holes yet.”

“Thanks, walkindude. Sounds like Isle Royale, where no bears or raccoons, though red squirrels are known to get pesky with packs and red fox have gotten way too tame. How about in the Black Hills? I read in the guide that there aren't bears, but what about raccoons, etc.?

At least the Black Hills seem to have plenty of water, compared to the Badlands at least. A few days in TRNP, then work south to the Black Hills -- have you hiked around Devil's Tower? Is it worth the sidetrip?”

“You can hang your food in the Black Hills. No bears there either. I've never had a problem with critters at night but ya never know.
I've climbed Devil's Tower. That was back in 95' though. My rock climbing days are over now. Just memeries & photos remain.”

“Devils Tower is worth a side trip if ya got time.”

“pekka, I think it would be a lot like camping out in your area (unless you have bears there). I don't think much of anything is gonna bother you for your food.

I did the Harney Peak hike and I'm a lowlander. It was fine. (And that was at end of winter -- fighting some snow and lots of ice while walking. I had hiking poles and that was good. I did stop to huff and puff a few times, I went up from the Sylvan Lake Trailhead.)

I thought it was fun to see Devil's Tower. One path goes around its base, which I hiked. A couple other trails are available on the grounds. Nothing real long.

If you do go to Devil's Tower, you might want to go up into the Bear Lodge Mts. of the Black Hills. They are between Spearfish and Devil's Tower, in Wyoming. I think they're a lot less overrun. We drove through there on a Saturday and only really saw people at whatever lake is there.”

“lizs, oh, we've got bears. You don't want to leave your food anywhere near the ground in the Northwoods of Wisconsin or the U.P. If the bruins don't get it, the raccoons will and maybe even first. The Porkies have bear poles at most designated campsites, but at others such as Sylvania (thanks Backpacker for calling the masses to my nearest large wilderness) you best rig a bear bag setup of your own between spring and late fall.

I've read a bit of the info on the Bear Lodge Mtns. in the guidebooks. The nice thing will be to be in the area with a somewhat open-ended timeline and as with most places, being able to visit on weekdays.

Thanks for the advice on the trails and locations. This should be a blast if the ol' knees hold out, LOL.”

“We have bears here in NE Iowa, too, SOMETIMES. Had one who hibernated all winter here maybe 5 years ago. And then I saw him in a field near my home frolicking as he headed back north. Even though it was well-known where he had spent his winter, I was NOT believed in that I saw him near my home. GO FIGURE!!! :-) Bears aren't common here at all, but were in the past. At Effigy Mounds N'tl Monument on the Mississippi and 40 miles from here, many effigies are of BEARS. GO FIGURE!! lol”

“pekka-
I used to do canoe trips at Sylvania when I lived up there. It was one of my fav. places to go. I hear you about the raccons though.”

“Pekka, Sounds like you are going to have a great trip and your pre-trip ritual is the same as mine - delve into books on the area and find out the best places to go BEFORE you get there! I've visited Devil's Tower as well and highly recommend it. I remember an eerie feeling walking around its base....the massive size up close is overwhelming. We kept looking high up to watch the progress of the many climbers - who were specks from down bottom. I can';t even imagine how walkindude must have felt way up there! Sure would like to see some of his pics if they are still around. I saw something on OLN the other night..some guy (forget his name but he was a world class climber) did an excellent job of explaining the basics of climbing. I really had no clue before. The sport seems safer than I imagined, if done properly. Am I right, walkindude?
Enjoy your trip, pekka. It sounds great and I am already looking forward to the report and pics!”

“UTAHIKER
When we climbed it, all we could think of was what a fantastic view it was. It do get VERY HOT on that thing with the sun baking you. I think we took abot 6 hours to summit. once on top, you get eaten alive by these bugs that look like flying ants. We'd planned to kick back awhile on top but the bug forced us back down after about 15 mins. LOL! The repel back down takes about 45 mins. you rig through 4 different repel stations untill you can scramble down to the path at the base.
Climbing is actually pretty safe as long as you just stick to routes within your limit. DT does tend to dish out lots of punishment as far as skin abraisions & cuts. We looked like sh!t by the time we got down. LOL!”

“Thanks for the info, walkindude! I thought maybe you were afraid of being eaten alive by a bear on top - wasn't that part of the legend as to the tower's origin? Are there permanent..what do you call them...rings for clipping on to in the rock? Are there only certain paths to climb?”

“utahiker, as I recall from the info I got there last summer, there were well over 100 routes you could take to the top. Also of note, when we were there, during month of June, climbing is highly discouraged due to Native American religious practices/beliefs, etc. However, there was one group climbing even so.”

“Yeah, That's the ledgend. I didn't see any Giant bears though. LOL!
As far as permanent anchors, They have good solid rings bolted in at all belay stations and repel areas. between those areas, you'll see an occaisional peton but your discouraged from using them. Unsafe. There are 164 routes on the tower but prolly only half actually reach the top.

I've heard of people climbing during the times when the Indians wanted to do their thing. That is highly disrespectful. If they calledor checked the web site they could have found out the dates when it was closed to climbers.”

“walkindude, I suppose that just might not occur to some people?? And if they get there and it's strongly suggested they NOT climb, well, they've got a choice to make. These apparently wanted to go ahead. I didn't expect we'd see anyone on it that day, with the Native American observances.”

“I guess I better get to DT before June 1 then if I want to see the climbers. The Red Beds Trail looks like a fine circumnavigation. I wonder if it'll be hard to shake the Close Encounters mood.

What's missing from the guidebooks are photos of typical backcountry campsites for the type of trail or backcountry being traversed. Trail scenery photos are nice, but I've gone places with beautiful scenery and few good campsites; knowing which spots to avoid or which to push on to is helpful.”

“In both the Black Hills & the Badlands, there is no designated camping areas. Have you got a itenerary picked out for the Black Hills part yet? Some of us could chime in pretty good if we knew where you'd be hiking. Along Grizzly Bear creek is nice if your gonna be in that area.
In the Badlands, I liked camping right on top of buttes. Less chance of waking up with buffalo around your tent grazing.”

“walkindude, I was just reading this evening about the Grizzly Creek loop. It mentions some good high ground sites near the junction of trails 14 & 7 in the Grizzly Bear Creek valley, above some beaver dams.

I have enough time that if you mention a loop or location, I'll try to get to it. I'd like to tie a few of the loops together, so I'm pouring over the books and map. Gotta do Harney Peak, though I'll take the guidebook advice and approach from the less used north, Willow Creek trailhead, through the Black Elk Wilderness and back on the Lost Cabin Trail.

Also looking at the Sundance trails in the Bear Lodge Mtns. portion of the Black Hills.

Up at TRNP, I've got my sites on the Achenbach Trail in the north unit, maybe the Petrified Forest Loop in the south unit.

It's a bit overwhelming, the options available.”

“pekka...double-check the dates or the website. I don't remember for sure, but do know when we were there, climbing wasn't supposed to be happening. And we were there a Saturday, going on the Crazy Horse Volksmarch the next day, which I believe was June 2??? (I could well be wrong, however. I know, I know, who woulda thunk??)

The Red Beds Trail climbs up to the tower from quite a bit lower (from prairie dog land and the red rocks of the Belle Fourche "fuesh" or "foosh" River... almost reminded me of Utah by the river. Surprised the heck outta me!!)”

“I'll tell ya the loop I did through the Black Hills.

*Start at Sylvan Lake
*Cathederal Spires to Grizzly Bear Creek Trail.
*Camped next to the creek.
*Continued on to the Centinnial Trail.
*Took a side trip to Mt Rushmore.
*continued on to Horsethief Lake and camped just outside the lake boundry so we wouldn't have to pay.
*went back up and got on the Willow Creek Trail.
*Harney Peak Trail.
*back to Sylvan Lake.

We did this in in 3 days. It was roughly 30 miles.

If I was going to make that route better, I'd;
*Go to Harney Peak from the Cathederal Spires trail and back track.
*keep going straight on Willow creek trail and return via the Lost Cabin trail. If you need and supplies while out, there is a KOA Campground across Hwy 244 near the Willow Creek Trailhead.

Did I confuse you any?”

“Nope, I've seen these on the maps. Thanks, walkindude, especially for the KOA emergency supply tip. Always good to know local features that aren't on topos.”

“Glad to help ya Pekka.

A good place to BP in the Badlands is near Big Foot Pass. Look on your map and you'll see a road going south of there. Turn down that road and pretty soon you'll see a parking area on the right. That's a nice place to wander through the Landscape.

If I get time, I'll scan a few pictures and put em on my Photo Point page so you can check it out.”

“Much obliged, walkindude.”

“Here's some pictures of Black Hills and some of when we climbed Devils Tower”

“So you musta been hauling a tripod, eh, on Devil's Tower, or some of those other Black Hills backpackers along? And why did ya give up climbing, Walkindude?”

“Lizs
We hit the summit of the Tower with some guys from Colorado at the same time. We took each others group shots.
The other people in the shot at Mt Rushmore were were Friends & Family. That was from last years trip back in June.
The reason I gave up climbing was because I got my my hand messed up at work about 4 years ago and don't have full grip in it. After it healed as good as it was gonna get, I tried to climb again and just couldn't seem to make it work too well. So instead of just staying on the easy routes, not being able to progress back to the climber I was, I just retired from it.”

“walkindude, thanks very much for putting up the pics. The campsite and trail photos are very helpful in filling out my mental construct of this coming trip.

Talk about studly there on top of Devil's Tower, LOL!”

“Have you started working on your Itenerary yet? What's your Ideas so far?”

“pekka, I think the studly pic you are referring to is dude's friend, Danny. Dude, you are still studly and very cool.”

“First stop will be North Unit of TRNP, probably doing the Achenbach Trail, 17.6 mile loop that crosses the Little Missouri a couple times. That's 2-3 days. Then down to the South Unit, probably for the Petrified Forest Loop Trail, which is 14.5 miles -- though an off-trail option along the river is 12 miles. A couple days.

From TRNP, I'll head southwest to Wyoming and Devils Tower and walk the trails around its base, a day; then to the Bearlodge Mountains and the fairly new Sundance Trail system (or maybe the Sand Creek Route, which is about a 10-mile trailess loop through two creek canyons, which sounds very little used and harbors many rare plants -- but this might be a bit too much off the beaten track for my first bout with soloing). A couple days.

Then I'll move on to the Black Hills. Most likely I'll do the Harney Peak/Willow Creek/Lost Cabin loop and the Grizzly Creek Loop, or possibly figure out a reasonable way to combine those two loops, since there are some obvious links. A couple days each or 3-5 days linked.

A busy two weeks or so with driving in between, not counting the out and back drive from Wisconsin. But I won't be on a strict timeline. A colleague has recommended visiting the Slim Buttes in the Custer National Forest -- it's where the "Man in the Wilderness" episode took place, if you remember that bit of history turned into a Richard Harris movie.

Of course, I could get my a$$ kicked early on, LOL, by heat, buffalo, rattlesnakes, fatigue, etc. However, I am looking at taking the early hiking easy since I'm in no hurry at all. And with so many variables in the list, I can retailor it to how well I hold up -- I have no grand illusions or inordinate pride that would make me overstep my limitations. If it's too much, I'll cut back.

Last day of school tomorrow, yippee, then next week I'll get my gear all together, do a few more day hikes, and be on the road probably by the Memorial Day weekend so I arrive at TRNP just as the holiday visitors have to leave.”

“Ya know, I've never even seen a Rattle Snake (or any snake for that matter) in South Datota. Just watch out for the Buffalo! The Badlands & TRNP will probably wear you out more than the Black Hills will. The heat just saps it right out of ya. I wouldn't push to hard or expect to stay a long time at either place.
The next time I go, I may not even hit the Badlands and go straight for the Black Hills.For me it's about 20 - 24 hours drive if I go straight though and not stop overnight. Last year was my 3rd trip to the area.
While your in the Black Hills, I'd deffinatly do the Cathederal Spires Trail. You'll be glad ya did. I'd even visit Harney Peak for that trail too. The Harney Peak Trail is pretty nice but It's a lot of work too. Very little water too. We got lucky and found a tiny creek on the way up. If it wasn't for that, We'd have had a VERY dry hike up and over. That loop I suggested would be a great 4 day trip. Skip the Harney trail and continue on the Willow Creek trail. Where ever you start, Ya gotta see Sylvan Lake. Put that on your MUST SEE list too. Lizs will back me on that. If ya go to see the Rushmore heads, Take the spur trail from the Centinnial Trail instead of driving to it. Be a backpacker, not a tourist.
I've never done the Lost Cabin Trail so if ya do it, tell me how it was.
Your gonna love it out there!

I've never been to TRNP, so give us a report on that place too.



Lipstick Hiker
Your too sweet Girl!”

“walkindude, thanks for the continued suggestions. BTW, which solo tent is that in the Badlands photo? Did you camp in that spot at the base of a bluff for wind protection?

I'm hoping for at least one absolutely clear night while camped on the prairie so I can lay back and trip out on the stars. That's one of the reasons I picked up a Gossamer for this trip, the ability to roll back the rain fly and have an all mesh ceiling.”

“That was the Slumberjack Bivy. Normally we camp on a butte but we were pretty far back in the landscape and Buffalo wasn't a worry. It did block the wind pretty good though. It's nice to lay back in camp at dusk and listen to the coyotes hawl and cry.
If your lucky, You'll get to see an electrical storm. It lightnings like crazy but seldom rains.
Night time in the Badlands are Awsome!!!

The area that camp pic was taken was off Conata Road (near Yellow Mounds Overlook). On the map you'll see Conata Picnic Area. Park there and wander west. It's like a play ground out there.”

“You're right on Sylvan Lake. My big regret (well, other than the film processing botching over half my rolls) was not taking a shot of a totally frozen Sylvan Lake in yellowish morning light last March. Nope, I had to get going on that Harney Peak hike!!

(Then I intended to take it when I returned, but was wayyy tired and left the camera on top of the Jeep. It stayed put all the way to Hot Springs, where I got a motel that night. It didn't rain and the camera was facing my room-away from where someone might see it for easy pickins. It was still there the next morning. PHEW!!)”