Northern CA

“I'm going to be in Northern CA in late June and I am trying to plan a 4-5 day solo backpacking trip. I'm new to backpacking and want to plan a safe, fun trip. Any trail suggestions?”

“I would recommend either The Trinity Alps or Lassen Volcanic National Park. The Trinity's offer classic High Sierra type country with high alpine lakes, granite peaks and beautiful rivers and creeks. Like the Sierras the terrain can sometimes be a little challenging for beginners, with steep passes and sometimes tricky creek crossings. Some snow should be expected on the higher elevations, even late in June. Lassen offers relatively easy trails, lots of lakes and incredible volcanic scenery. Other choices up here are, The Marble Mountains and the Warners, to name a few.

Canyon Creek trail in the Trinity's would be a great hike if you want to set up a base camp and spend the next few days exploring. Camp near Canyon Creek lake ( 8/9 miles) then day hike to Bolder Creek Lakes or try a cross country hike to Smith Lake. The area offers great swimming, beautiful views and lots of granite. This is a great hike if you don't want to spend every day carrying your pack.

Lassen is a little easier to set up a loop trip where you hike for all 4 or 5 days and return to the car without repeating any part of the hike. Going in at Summit Lake and hiking to the Cinder Cone, then Snag Lake, Juniper, Horse Shoe and Twin Lakes can keep you busy. If you find you are covering ground to fast (it's not a big park) you can head up to Bumpass Hell. Lassen could still have some snow in some areas, depends on how fast it melts off this year.

It really depends on how you want to hike, base camp with lots of day hikes or spending each night in a new campsite. If you want, feel free to e-mail me and I can send you pictures of the areas with maps and some other options as well. This offer is for anyone comming to my neck of the woods.... if I'm in town (I work in the mountains) I would be glad to show any of you around the area.”

“mtnsteve, wing is going solo. Are there any wildlife issues to be careful of in that area?”

“No, although bears and mountain lions are around they stay well away from humans. It's still a good idea to hang your food just to be on the safe side. I spend at least 40 days a year in the Trinitys and 60 days in Lassen and have never had a problem with the wildlife, except for mice.”

“Adjacent to Lassen Volcanic NP is the Caribou Wilderness. You can make a loop through there.

A warning though -- the extreme SE corner of the Park/SW corner of the Caribou Wilderness (Bonte Peak/Black Cinder area) has some localized anomalies that make compasses erratic. Even GPS signals are not reliable. So if in that area check your map frequently and carefully.

As for wildlife issues -- the most common wildlife specie in the Caribou is the mosquito. Other than that, use the normal precautions for black bear and mtn lions. Rattlesnakes are believed absent from that elevation. There have been a couple of reported Bigfoot sightings in the Caribou Wilderness, if you want a laugh.

Outside the SW corner of LVNP are two areas of National Forest that are not designated wilderness but are still undeveloped. A few trails in these areas (Heart Lake and Wild Cattle Mtn.) connect to the National Park trail system for additional looping possibilities.

The whole area is generally flat to rolling so hiking is easy and lots of lakes and streams. This also makes it easier to get 'confused' if your map and compass skills are lacking. Mt Lassen is a pretty dominant landmark, so learn its silhouette early.

Also -- the main highway through the Park was opened this last weekend. One of the earliest dates ever. A low snaowpack means some of the ephemeral streams will be drying up earlier than normal.”

“"Northern CA" can cover a he!!uva lot of geography. Lassen / Trinity Alps are great, but so are the Sierras around Tahoe, Pt Reyes & some other spots along the coast, and all can be considered "Northern CA". Give us a little more detail on where you'll be...”

“Thanks for the feedback! I'll be flying into San Jose and then driving up to Woodacre to spend a few days, then off to wherever it is I decide to go. I've also thought about doing a couple 2-3 day trips. If I do that, I'm thinking of a couple of days on a coastal trail and then somewhere more like what mtnsteve described.”

“Those of us in the 'real' northern California consider Tahoe to be nothing more than an L.A. suburb. It's called 'Disneyland in the Pines' around here. It's overpopulated, over polluted, over priced, and overrated.”

“Hey Gordon --- not too sure I disagree with you. Read my post carefully & you'll note that I said "around" Tahoe. Personally, I also disdain the congestion & tourist-trap mentality in the immediate Lake Tahoe area. However, just a few miles outside Tahoe are some great places to hike. Hafta know where you're going and when, of course, but there ARE great places! Please don't paint the entire area with your broad paintbrush...”

“gordon, I take offense to your Tahoe statement, it is clearly a Bay Area suburb. That said, I've never had any problem finding solitude in the Tahoe area, but then again, I know where to look.

Wing, the best coastal hike is the Lost Coast, but summer patterns will take hold by the time of your hike meaning fog and wind.

Other considerations:

Stuart Fork in the Trinity Alps
Redwood Creek near Orick
N. Fk. Trinity River to Grizzly Lk
N. Fk. Salmon River in the Marbles”

“Belle and I are watching...”

“So, because of the time of year (wind, fog), should I avoid any coastal trail?”

“Not necessarily, just be aware that during the summer that is the norm. If you're accepting of that and prepared when you go you might get surprised with good weather which generally occurs during heat waves. The further south you go the less prevalent this pattern is.”

“I've been at GORP researching the Trinity Alps. Good stuff.”

“Another consideration about Lost Coast is the crowds...
The place used to be relatively unknown, now it's a zoo.
The place ain't lost anymore. I'm not familiar with any
other coast trips.

Another good place for info on the Trinty Alps is ..

http://www.backcountrypages.com/trinity.html

Check out the photos, especially under "Aerial Photos"”

“Good stuff indeed, I'll be there in less'n 2.5 months!!”

“Pt Reyes is very scenic, again if you don't mind the crowds. Takes quite awhile to get permits, so at least it's somewhat controlled. They still let too many people in IMHO.”

“Day hike from Canyon to Smith?”

“It's a cross country hike, just below the cut off to Boulder Lakes you head up and drop into Smith Lake...it's a good way to get to Morris lake as well. You can also get there from Alpine Lake, that's probably the easiest way actually.

Hey Trinity Trekker, you ever buy any gear in Redding?”

“Hey Trinity Trekker, drop me an e-mail at cdevoe@teleport.com. Got some info on a trip you might be interested in.

Oh, and wing, don't worry about being alone if you go into Canyon Creek. That place is a friggin' zoo if there ever was one.”

“Hey folks, let's not forget, wing said he/she is a beginner, i.e. avoidance of cross country, torcherous treks and extremely remote areas is best. I tend to suggest easy to moderate trails where help is close by for beginners.

Trinity Trekker, give ChinaChas or myself a hawler (summit@gene.com) regarding that trip.”

“Hmmm..., well not being out there completely by myself sounds good. However, I don't think I'd like to go to a place that's packed with people. Anything in between?”

“Canyon is worse that a zoo! A few years back we had a SAR the and the CHP chopper said they couldn't help---there was to many people. they couldn't id just one.
For the Canyon to Smith walk, I like to go through L. There is a shut above L to the NE that brings you out on the rock on the Stuart Fk side. Then a nice walk over to the lake.

Steve, yes I do buy in Redding and we most likly know each other, if Apline Outfitters rings any bells.”

“Trinity Trekker....Oh, yea...AO rings a few bells, sounds like you may be with SAR or perhaps SO as well...drop me an e-mail if you wish, sounds like we do know each other.”

“I've earmarked the Trinity Wilderness for a hike in mid July - that is if I make it that far west. I haven't decided on a definite route, but a peak summit will be a primary objective - fishing too, perhaps. Four or five nights will be a target, too. I'll hit the local FS office for maps and a final route decision...

I'll keep y'all posted until the hike. If someone wants to join us (me and Belle), we'd be glad to have you...”

“Canyon creek can definitely get crowded but I have been there when you were hard pressed to see another person. The trail is long enough to spread people out. I like to make my first camp in the Meadows just above lower falls, which are quite spectacular this time of the year. Smith lake is not! for the beginner. Buy a guide book there are three good ones for the Trinities. My favorite is Wayne Moss. I have all three. Each of them give a slightly different perspective.
The scenery on the Canyon Creek trail is World Class. There are dozens of the other trails in the Alps, however.If you are coming up the coast you can also try Redwood National Park, a half hour north of my home.”

“gojo, instead of getting a FS map, stop by an outfitter, the FS maps coloration lacks contrast regarding the contour lines. Earthwalk Press (I think) makes the best map.

alps, there's now a 4th book on the shelf, Falcon Press has recently published a Trinity Alps guide. I also prefer Moss's Alps Companion.”

“I have a map of the Wind River Range that I bought at the Lander FS office. It's a really good map, but I can't remember who produced it. I have numerous other maps from the FS that aren't as good of a quality, tho. A stop at an outfitter will likely be in order anyway.

"Crowded" is a relative term. I expected to see a procession of hikers in the Sawtooths last year (based on others comments). Instead, I saw a total of perhaps a dozen people in three days/two nights.

Winds, too. Granted, I could see five or six tents from where I base camped for a couple of days, but that was over an area above treeline encompassing hundreds - if not thousands - of acres (Upper Titcomb Basin).

If the Cohutta Wilderness, GA (30,000 acres), were treeless, you'd be able to see dozens of tents at most any given time.”

“There is so much hiking in California, I haven't heard of half of the places you guys are talking about. I've been mostly in Central and Southern Cali. The Sierras offer so much to explore.”

“I would say it depends on where you are going to be in N. CA. If you are in the Bay Area, Tahoe is about a 4 hour drive. The Trinity Alps, Lassen and the Marbles are all between 5-7 hour drive. Point Reyes would be the closest, maybe an hour max, and you could hike all over on relatively easy terrain. Something else to keep in mind is that Yosemite is only 4 hours from the Bay Area.”

“Canyon Creek, Trinity Alps, Memorial Weekend 2000:

Hike in on Friday, encountered maybe 20 people.

By Sunday, there must have been close to 50 people camped in our immediate vicinity. Encountered another 50 - 75 folks hiking to the lake.

Hike out Monday, encountered close to 100 people on or in the vicinity of the trail.

Is that crowded?”

“Naaaahhhhhh.

Sheesh. I can't believe there were that many people there!!

Memorial Day is notorious for being packed everywhere, however.”

“Rosey, I beg to differ, in '97 during Memorial Day weekend I did a 3 day trip in the Marbles that included 20 miles of the PCT and we didn't see anyone from trailhead to trailhead. In 99, also in the Marbles we went in on the very popular Shackleford Ck Trail and saw very few people. In 95 I went to where I'm going next weekend and didn't see anyone until the last couple miles. As far as what CC mentions, I was there to witness it, and it's true, but we had a nice base camp with few people visible from it.”

“I've seen the parking a CC TH all the way down the road passed the CG, yet there was no one a Kalmia but who goes to Kalmia? Where is Kalmia?
Dunk, the BEST book on the Alps is Moss's first--The Idiots guide to the Trinity Alps.”

“Dunk,Those were pretty heavy snow years. Not to many people like to hike in 20 ft. of snow and go to frozen lakes LOL.
Thanks for the info on that new book. I can't believe I missed it. I went straight to Amazon and ordered it.
TT, I have his first book, It's good but I think his latest has more info. Kalmia has been on my wish list for quite sometime. I'd like to score on some of those goldens in the creek. Of all my travels in the Trinities I have never been up the CC watershed because of the traffic. I've seen it several times, just never been in it. Maybe a late fall trip would be a good time. Do the hunters make it up that far ?

I'll be heading to Rattlesnake creek in two weeks for my first hike of the year warm up. Then it's off to Clearlake in the Marbles”

“cal, maybe you can show me Moss's first book when I pass through next Friday.”

“No problem, I'll bring to my work so I don't forget”

“I'll be sure to make my hike during the week...”

“Okay.
I'm getting things narrowed down a bit.

I'd like to summit Thompson Peak, if possible. If not, no biggy. I'll basecamp in the vicinity, and dayhike and fish for a couple days.

The thing I'm not sure of is: how is the best way to approach?

Route #1
It looks (on TopoZone) like China Creek to Grizzly Cr. to Grizzly Lake is the shortest route, but the trailhead seems to be a loooong drive up a rough road. I also read somewhere that China Cr. Trail is pretty tough.

Route #2
Hobo Gulch to Grizz Cr. to Grizz Lake. Long route before getting above treeline, tho.

Route #3
Carribou Lk. to Emerald Lk. to Sapphire Lk.
That looks like it would be a nice route, but includes a tough ascent betwixt Carribou and Emerald.

I suppose the ultimate question is: which offers best camping AND fishing - Grizz or Sapphire?

Also, should I pack my crampons and axe?

Will Sarabelle be able to scramble Thompson too? I can boost her as high as eight feet. She's pretty fearless, and will go anywhere (within reason) that I ask. I could leave her behind for a final ascent, if neccessary. I would make that decision on location.

Are the bears bold or do they bolt? More specifically, are they hunted?

Thanks in advance.

Remember, I'll be there in mid-July if anyone is interested in joining us. Exact dates are flexible...”

“gojo, I'd personally opt for the route up the N. Fk. of the Trinity (Hobo Gulch). The route is long but fun and adventerous with fishing and history along the entire route. The road up to China Spgs actually isn't that bad but the trail is extremely steep. Going up Stuart Fork is not a good option for summiting Thompson as traversing the ridgeline would be most difficult. Canyon Creek, I believe is the preferred route and if you can get above Upper Canyon Ck Lk in one day (9 miles) you'll leave the masses behind and most likely not see another soul. Mid week the crowds aren't as bad as CC mentions but there's still lots of folks up Canyon Ck. The bears are scared of hikers and Trinity Trekker may best be able to answer your questions about belle summiting. Here some pics of the Canyon Ck route and the North Fork/Grizzly route.

Also here's an e-mail I sent to someone requesting info on Grizzly:

Rene,

Sorry for the late reply. I've not been to Hancock or English in the Marbles so couldn't compare them to
Grizzly. I do know that the Trinities received close to normal rainfall this year while the Marbles far less
then normal, this past weekend I was able to summit Marble Mountain without needing any special snow
gear. That said, Grizzly Lk, Falls and Meadows is an incredible location and while the falls might not be
running full force at the end of July the lake should have an abundance of water as well as Grizzly Ck and
the N. Fk. of the Trinity River. I have pulled fish out of Grizzly Ck but have not tried at Grizzly Lk (was up
there in early July '95 and it was almost completely snow/ice covered) or the North Fork (seasonal closing
- check restrictions).

There are two ways into Grizzly, a short route and a long route. The short route is from the Cecilville area
and the trail is extremely steep. The distance to Grizzly Meadows is about 6 miles +/-. One book quotes
the elevation gain in the 1st mile at 1500' followed by a 1300' drop in 1.5 miles and then a 2000' climb in
3.5 miles to the meadow and the best camping. To get to the lake involves a 7-800' hand over foot
scramble which would be rather difficult with full pack. From Hobo Gulch Trailhead accessed from Hwy 299
the route in is about 18-20 miles. The first 10 miles parallels the North Fork and is a pleasant and gradual
stroll passing historical mining era locations including the well preserved and interesting Jorstad Cabin at 8
miles. After 10 miles the trail turns up Grizzly Ck and soon meets up with the former trail about 4-5 miles
from the Grizzly Ck / North Fork confluence. This longer route has two significant stream crossings, one of
Rattlesnake Ck 5-6 miles in and one of Grizzly Ck at about 11 miles. When we crossed these streams in
'95 we used rope to assist. That said '95 was an extremely wet year and water flow was near record, this
year in late July should pose no problems other then having to change into sandals.

If you have the time (4 days or more) take the North Fork route, it's much more enjoyable and there are
plenty of camping options up to the Grizzly Ck crossing. We camped at the confluence where I spotted a
Mountain Lion. Below is a link to a photoalbum I have that covers the trip to Grizzly. The first 17 pictures
are from the N. Fk to Grizzly hike.

Additionally, I submitted a brief description in Matt's Trails Database, there also may be additional T/A info there.

Any questions email me at summit@gene.com”

“Here's what I know about Grizzly Lake,
I've taken both routes to Grizzly. If time is of consideration take the China Creek trail. It is very steep but short. You'll be up and over in less then an hour.
The Northfork trail is beautiful. A long hike under old growth that rivals redwoods in size. It's mostly small up and downs until you get to Grizzly Creek, as you start getting close to the meadows you travel up and over some moraines. When you get to the last one you get a view of the falls that is breathtaking. This is a good spot to leave the trail and fish the creek.

I've fished the lake twice and got skunked both times. Although they were half ass efforts.
Keep in mind the Northfork is closed to all fishing.
Grizzly Creek is an outstanding fishing stream. If you head about 1 1/2 miles below the meadow you'll find big deep pools with huge brookies (for a mountain stream) the only problem is fighting the brush to find the holes.

No problem with bears but the deer in the meadows are a pain the ass.
I also recommend camping in the meadows and day hike to the lake
.”

“Thanks guys.

Looks like Hobo to Grizz Meadows gets the nod. I'm psyched!

Nice pictures, Dunk.

Deer? Poor Belle.
We camped in a meadow in the Sawtooths last summer, and the deer grazed around us ALL NIGHT. Belle stood attentive for the entire time - she didn't get a wink of sleep! I'd wake up to see her standing like a statue. She'd cock her head first one way, then the other - emitting a low growl all the while. I prolly shoulda let her out of the tent occasionally to scatter them, LOL!

The next evening, a deer walked into camp within 50 feet of us. She and Belle had a stare-off, with the deer eventually stepping quietly away. Belle never raised her hair or made a sound... I honestly think she wanted to play.
hmmmm....
I wonder...
deer have been observed playing formal games of "tag". In fact, I played tag with a yearling button buck for about an hour once when I was a kid. Goooood times!

Thanks again, y'all”

“gojo, are you living out here on the west coast now? If so, send me an e-mail at cdevoe@teleport.com. We have a goings on Memorial Weekend you might be interested in.”

“I agree with those who recommend the Trinities. It is the best combination of accessible alpine lakes and vistas plus relatively comfortable summer evenings and all pretty much bug free in mid-summer.

And Grizzly Lake is to die for. I am an inexperienced fisherman, but I reeled in one brookie after another last July. The trail to the meadows was an adventure because a doe harassed my dog by racing right at her and veering off at the last second.

I've never experienced a tougher scramble with my backpack on than the last 700 vertical feet up to the lake. My wife, frustrated with a forced U-turn on the scramble, threw her backpack down the slope. Several times we had to lift our 80 lb dog by her pack to reach higher granite on that scramble. My wife forgave me when she saw the lake, and spent the next day reading a novel in the shadows by Grizzly Lake. Meanwhile I scrambled up all but the last 200 vertical feet of Thompson peak, first going west from the lake then south on the ridge.

This summer I'm going to bag the top.”

“Sorry guys but the best route into Thompson is by way of Caribou. Up to the pass with Staurt Fk then run the N side of the ridge to Caesar and Grizz. It is all open smooth rock.
As for Thompson: northeast ridge is a class 2 as are the west slopes and the south ridge. From the Col is a 3-4 as is the N buttress and the N face.
Steve Mackey wrote A Climber's Guide to California's Trinity Alps in 84. It covers ALL the Alps both for climbing and hiking.
If any one would like more info let me know trinitytrekker@tds.net.
Hay blue, try the lakes just to the E of Grizz
Middle fk of the S fk etc, the TRAIL is 2 miles right up the creek, then another couple up a cliff around another and the it gets fun.”

“Hi All, I am new here. Originally from California, lived in Alaska for 9 years. I am unfortunately in Illinois right now, but chomping at the bit to get back west and closer to home and family. My hubby is opposed to living in California for several reasons, so I am stuck trying to figure out where to look in Western Nevada and still be somewhat close to the Sierras and family (near Bass Lake). I haven't been to Tahoe in 20 years, so I was interested in all your helpful comments about the area now! LOL Any other ideas of where I might investigate some real estate? I need some room for animals. Also I must have trees! TIA”

“Verdi, Nevada is nice and right on the border on Hwy 80”

“I am planning a trip to the Marble Mountains this summer.I'm looking at the Chimney Rock and English Peak areas. If anyone has any info on the lakes,the little north fork trail,crowds,I'd love to hear about it billh”

“I'm still in GA, and am driving west this summer.”

“Thanks everyone for your input. I've decided to do Pt. Reyes and then drive up to the Trinity Alps. It sounds great up there and it really isn't that much further of a drive. I'll be there during the week so hopefully it won't be too crowded. Has anyone ever done Pt. Reyes solo? I'm trying to figure out how to do it with one car. (It's a one way type hike.)”