Mt. Hood Oregon

“I'm going to climb Mt Hood on Memorial Day weekend. Anyone have any suggestions for the trip? What is a typical time up and down for an out of shape old hog? Are there any serious cravasses on the standard route. I haven't even studied the route, I'm counting on my partner to do all the research on the route, but we are doing the standard route, whatever that is.

What time do most people start on the climb? I wonder why climbers don't just take the ski lifts up as hish as they go, and walk from there? Can you ski down part of the route?

Any advice would be appreciated!”

“Hello Bob. It's been a number of years since I've climbed Mt. Hood, but not much has changed. Here's a quick overview.

The standard route up the mountain is on the South side. The starting point is from Timberline Lodge, which is located at the 6000' level. BTW, it's a neat old structure built in the 30's by the CCC, and is worth checking out. The climber's registry is actually in the skier's daylodge, which is adjacent.

Most people still start the climb in the early morning hours, somewhere around 2 or 3:00 am. The idea is to achieve the summit (11,235') abount sunrise. This allows you to watch the mountain's shadow stretch across the landscape as you're perched on top, helps avoid the risk of rockfall near the summit later in the day, and allows for easier walking on firmer snow as you come down. You'll probably be back to your car before noon.

The Palmer ski chair does in fact go up to about the 8400' level. It's a permanent snowfield that affords the only summer skiing in the country. I don't think it runs at night. I've also seen people take a snowcat up the same route, but I'm guessing that would be expensive and require special arrangement. If you want to hike your skis to the top of Palmer, it would allow you about 2400' of easy vertical on the way down.

This route on the mountain is the least technical. You will not encounter any noteworthy crevasses. Depending on snow conditions, you won't need to put on crampons or rope up until around the final pitch to the summit somewhere around Devil's Kitchen or The Hogsback. Expect to share this route with a lot of people. May is the peak season for climbing the mountain, and you'll be up there over a three day weekend. Mt. Hood has the somewhat dubious distinction of being the second most climbed glaciated peak in the world. Number one is Mt. Fuji, and that's because it's a walkup religious ritual.

Depending on weather, you should have a good time. It's not a super challenging technical climb, but it will wear you out. Let us know how it goes. Thanks.”

“So, how did it go Bob? Did you summit? Was it a good experience? Do tell. Thanks.”

“Idaho Bob! We want to hear your trip report. (Please?)”

“The climb was good, its just me that was old and creaky. We (3)got up at midnight, and started at 1:30 AM. As we hiked up to the top of the chairlifts from the lodge at Timberline, a snowcat ferried loads of paying and guided climbers to the top of the lifts. They all beat us to the top, of course.

By steady plodding, we were on the hogsback, a big windridge of snow about 200 feet high, about 9800' elev, at about 7:30 AM. The hogsback is surrounded by big steam fumeroles that were sending up 100' steam clouds.

There was a bergshrund above the hogsback, but it was crossable by stepping over a narrow section. There had been so many climbers that above the hogsback there were ice stairs carved by the hundreds of cramponed boots that had come before us on previous spring weekends.

We got up to the summit by 8:30 AM, really tired. It was cold and blowing hard, and I was freezing. The views were great however. I had on every stitch of clothes I was carrying, and my feet were still going numb. I didn't wear gaitors, thinking to save some weight. They might have helped with the cold.

Anyway, we headed down, and slid about 2000 feet on our butts once we were off the steep part. They won't let you ride the chair lift down, because I went into the lift building and gave them a sob story about my aching knees, and said I'd pay for a one ride ticket. "No dice, get out of here, you filthy animal. If we let one climber ride the lift down, they'd all want to." Yeah, if they pay, so what?

Down to the car by 12:00 noon, really tired, I was hobbling around like I'd fallen out of a car going 50 mph. However, I got no blisters, and was just tired everywhere, "weary to the bone."

We crashed in the woods by a snopark parking lot, and the next day drove to Boise by way of the back roads of central Oregon, by way of Antelope, Mitchell, and John Day, and back to the freeway at Baker.

I took some great slides, and will have them scanned, and post them in a few weeks.

Thanks for asking, guys. How was your weekend?”

“My weekend sure didn't compare to yours, Bob! Congrats on summitting. About how many others were doing the climb?

Too bad about the lunkheaded lift operators...what are they thinking?”

“I think about 50-60 were on the summit within 2 hours of when we were. The guided parties were at least two hours ahead of us, and there were probably 25 in 5 rope teams.

I was impressed by the Hood River Valley. It was very beautiful, with nice orchards and great views of the peak.”

“Thanks for the update, Bob. It sounds like you had a real successful climb. Your story brings back some good memories.

Even though the snowcat and chairlift looked tempting at the time, I'm guessing you have a greater sense of accomplishment for having walked the entire way. You done good.

I agree that the Hood River Valley is a beautiful place. We were in Parkdale (in the upper valley) a few weeks ago. The pears were blooming and the mountain was gorgeous. Made me think that it would be a nice place to build a house some day. That side of the peak is the most dramatic. Did you happen to take a look over the North face when you were on the summit? I made a point to inch up to it on my belly (it was pretty windy) and peer over the edge. There's about 3000' of vertical wall that falls away on that side. Scary but cool!

Congratulations!”

“My climbing partner told me that a woman had walked up to the edge on snow a few weeks ago, and fell through the cornice to her death. With that in the back of my mind, I got to within a few feet of the edge, and held my camera over the edge for a few photos. Heights give me the willies. That valley is very pretty, with all the fruit trees, and what a view of Hood!”

“What's the earliest time you can climb up the traditional route -middle March, maybe?”

“They climb Hood all year. Haven't you heard on the news? It's supposed to be an easier climb early in the year because of soft snow rather than packed ice.”

“Anytime. Just pick a small weather window.”

“Well, I'm thinkin' 'bout it. . . but I sure would like to have a partner. . . anybody wanna go? I want to be safe, but fun, so a partner or two would be great.”

“Don't know your experience level but I'd take at least 2 others. Have one (or both) experienced. It a hell of a fall out of the Pearly Gates.”

“I'm off to Hood Monday. Please speak up if you can come along, otherwise I'll likely hire a guide, or, as a last resort, join up with safe group that'll have me.
last edited: 3/06/07 5:29:58 PM”

“precision, go to this website. Excellent information and maybe a partner to be had. I mean, we don't want to read about you being lost and/or falling off a precarious spot on Hood!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/”