Pictured Rocks Trip Report

“Do you know why backpacking is so great? Because since you are carrying your own stuff on your own back... you can make changes to your plan whenever you please. But, I'll get to that in a second.

For those of you who don't know Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore - it is located in Michigan's central Upper Pennisula, along Lake Superior. The Lakeshore Trail follows the shoreline for about 40-45 miles and shares much of the trail with the North Country Trail. For a couple photos see www.exploringthenorth.com/pictrocks/pr.html

My dad, boyfriend, friend and I took the shuttle to Little Beaver Lake on Thursday AM. Hiked the 1 1/2 miles to the Lakeshore trail. The next 5 or 6 miles to the our campsite were absolutely beautiful. The trail follows the cliff lines above Lake Superior. The sandstone cliffs are up to 200 feet or so above the water. It was amazing. To me, it was more magnificent than mountains ever could be. Sheer rock cliffs dropping to blue/green water. WOW

We camped that night at Chapel Beach, made dinner on the beach, and slept like babies.

The first half of the next day was just as beautiful as the first day. We had lunch at Mosquito Beach. One side of the beach was rock, not sand. Like a beach, the rock went into the lake until you were about thigh deep. Then the rock just ends. The water is very deep at the point where the rock ends and it flows under the rock.

They don't call it Mosquito Beach for nothing. The bugs were horrible after that. We didn't even stop for photos after leaving Mosquito Beach. We hiked fast and hard until we got to the next campground: Potato Patch. The bugs were even worse here. We set up camp, hung the food, and jumped in our tents. The bugys were so loud it sounded like they were going to pick up the tents and fly away with us. We stayed there for a couple hours until our stomachs were growling louder than the mosquitos. Made dinner very quickly then we all crammed into our tent to play euchre and wait out the light. In the middle of the night, the tempature dropped to somewhere in the 40s and the wind was kicking pretty good... but the mosquitos were still around.

Woke up to rain showers and more mosquitos (yes, they were still out during heavy rainfall). Skipped breakfast, packed up camp, and started to hike.

Remember when I mentioned that backpacking was great cause you can always make changes to your original plan... The plan was to camp one more night at Cliffs and hike out to the car the following day. At our lunch break we made the big decision. We were soaked, our gear was soaked, and we were covered in mosquito bites. So, we dropped our packs and my dad and I decided we would combine the 2 miles remaining for that day's hike and the next day's hike to do a packless hike to the car. Fortunately, the spot we stopped for lunch was also a visitor scenic area so we could hike to the car and drive back to this spot to pick up the other two who were waiting w/ the packs.

And that is how our trip ended.

On one hand I felt like a sissy cause we were quitting a day early. On the other hand, I thought the only reason to stay the next night (miserable and soaked) was to prove that we could. I knew I could do it, but I just didn't want to.

Overall, I still enjoyed the trip. We would like to return and check out the eastern half of the park... some day.

Just wondering - how many of you have ended a backpacking trip early due to the elements? What were the circumstances.

Sunshine - if you happen to be reading - are the mosquitos always so bad in early June in the UP? We were in the Porkies last year in August and had very little trouble with bugs. We were taken by surprise this weekend by the bugs at Pictured Rocks!”

“I have heard that the bugs turn a lot of people away. But I still have heard it is worth the trip.”

“Great trip report, but where are the pictures....lol

Except for the bugs, it sounds like you had a good time.”

“Big Foot - We did get some great shots the first day...

Some day I will have enough computer literacy to figure out how to post photos. Today is not that day!”

“thanks for sharing your trip report, tarabull. Would the shore look anything like Oregon or Washington? The bugs sound yucky but as we all know, we have to go with the flow and make the best of it! Do you know of any links or websites that we could look at that would give us an idea of the area? thanks!”

“Yes, tarabull, they are always that bad from May through June, when they taper off. At least you didn't encounter the stable flies. They HURT when they bite and there is no spray, not even 100% deet, that will deter them.

A group of us TTer's went last September. That was a great trip!

Also, I was in the Porkies last July and the temps got down to 35* one night.

Best time to hike in the UP is mid-July through October. The bears aren't ravenous like after hybernation, the bugs are minimal and the colors are awesome! (colors are mid Sept-mid Oct)”

“Thanks Sunshine.

Porkies in mid-August was perfect. Not too warm during the day and not too cold at night. However, the bear that came into our camp seemed pretty hungry!

We are considering a return to Pictured Rocks. I would love to hear about the trip you and the other TTers took. I checked for "Pictured Rocks" threads and didn't see any. What was that thread titled?”

“Tarabull, Joy and I have cut a trip short due to bugs. We had planned on a 10 day trip for Isle Royale. We ended up staying 6. The black flies were so bad that one morning we ate oatmeal while wearing headnets, LITERALLY! We'd get a spoonful,lift the headnet,shovel in the food,drop headnet,chew and repeat. It was awful. Joys ear had so many bites it stayed swollen for quite some time. NEVER,NEVER,NEVER again will I go to I.R. in June...BTW we had on 100% deet spray too.”

“Ditto on the black flies - they are definitely the spawn of Satan! If anyone knows of anything that actually keeps them away I would like to hear about it. I have never dealt with them while backpacking, but during our annual family get-together at Lake Erie, they have prevented us from using the beach at times.”

“I guess I will need to do better planning next time I head to the UP.

I assumed that since the bugs weren't bad down here (lower penninsula) in early June, they wouldn't be bad in the UP since it is usually colder there...

My ignorance shines in this instance!”

“I've never had to deal with bugs like that--sounds miserable. We've aborted trips and cut them short mostly due to weather. The idea is to have a good time so when it is no fun any more and you can cut it short you should do just that.”

“Having lived in the U.P. for about 15 years before wandering down to Northern Wisconsin, I eventually figured out that the bugs had as much to do with the low population density as the long winters. It was common for impulsive "walkaways" from the prison camps in the U.P. to give themselves up after a night or two in the U.P. woods being devoured by bugs.”

“Okay, here's the strange thing.

My friends and I hiked/camped/jeeped the tip of the Keweenaw this past week. The black flies and mosquitos were everywhere in big clouds.

The black flies bit one of my friends all over - he was just dripping with blood, but they never touched me. And there were other times when they swarmed, but didn't bite.

I suppose clothing color and diet has something to do with the attraction, but I couldn't figure out what I was doing right and he was doing wrong.”

“a few years ago my girlfriend and i were way back in the emigrant wilderness in mid july and ran out of deet....skeeters were the worst that i have ever seen....we had killed all of them that were inside the tent, when i realized that i needed something that was just outside the tent....i unzipped it just enough to reach out and then zipped it right back up again....82 mosquitoes (by actual kill count) got in....we packed up and walked the 17 tough miles back to the trailhead next day....”

“Friday, September 28th, after work I am heading to Pictured Rocks, providing my sister hires more help by then. The colors should be awesome about that time. Anyone interested is welcome to join me.”

“Sunshine - let's talk!!!

I've wanted to return to PR this fall and that weekend might be free.

Are we talking sans kids this time? I'd love to see you sometime when you're not chasing crumbsnatchers (said w/ affection, I love your kids).

Who's going? Any plans for the route?”

“Hmmmm, sounds interesting!”

“Could be within possibility. Checking my (and my wife's) schedules.

I'll be in Marquette this weekend and hope to get in at least one hike, perhaps up Hogback Mtn. north of town near Sugar Loaf/ Little Presque Isle area.”

“That wet and bug bitten? I would head back early as well. We all know what we can do, but why push it. I might have beaten you back to the car!!”

“Sans kids!! I'm planning some well deserved *Mommy time*! So far, it's just me and I have no route planned. I just know I'm going, providing my sister doesn't end up working that weekend. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

Hope you can make it pekka.

Hyperpacker, Think you and Joy can come? Think you'll take another dip in the coooooold Lake Superior water?

The more the merrier.”

“Hey I'm coming!!!! Well.... I wish I was.
Have a great time Sunny.
I'll be in the Whites... I will suggest that the Dude and I raise a cup, bowl or glass in your honor!”

“So far it looks like a good date. I'm done with classes at 10 a.m. Central on Fridays, too. Color should be peaking in the U.P. at that point, depending on frosts and rain. Our first color has appeared already on a tree on the edge of campus.”

“Sunshine Fan Club ya know.”

“Hey Sunshine, what sizes are your kids in? I think there are a couple kids' fleece items in the cool weather box that will be getting opened soon.”

“Hey pekka! I'm am very brain dead. When I read that other post of yours, I thought you were going to be in Marquette the weekend of the 28th. I've got this weekend off but I will have the kids with me because both my sisters are working, BUT if you have an easy hike planned in there at all, we could join you. Marquette is only two hours away. Send me an e-mail if you're interested. :o)



PedXing, You TEASE!! Thanks for the toast and remember, when comparing notes, only share the good stuff. ;o)”

“Dude, would those be ceiling fans or the big, leafy, hand-held, cabana boy fans?? I like that idea! ;o)”

“Right, I'm in Marquette this weekend, but I'm also free to come up to PR, I believe, for the 28th. Once I'm in Marquette, I'm without a computer until Monday night when I return.”

“Sunny,
You get the Dude & Ped Double team cabana thing. Can you handle it?”

“I wish! I will probably be visiting Marquette in mid-October for work. Will be trying to work it out so that I have time to do some hiking!”

“tarabull, keep us posted on your U.P. visit. May be up there, too. Our weekend visits will be frequent this fall.”

“Will do. I should know for sure soon.”

“Sunny, we're doing Zieleski the 21st. I don't think we could get two weekends in a row away! I'd love to do both but I don't think we could manage. :o(”

“In light of recent events, I won't be able to do this trip. We have had a few fires to put out at work in addition to being inundated with gasoline/home heating oil sales. Both sisters will be working the coming weekends until everything is caught up. Therefore, I have no one to watch the kids. I'm sorry. :o(”

“Sunshine, hope you can find some local walks to momentarily escape some of the hurly-burly of work. Still looking forward to sharing a path sometime.”

“Has anyone kayaked up at pictured rocks? My buddy for this trip said there is a "cold water safety class" requrired to go out on your own, or there are some guided tours. Anyone have any advice?”

“Dont. We saw some guys trying desperately to kayak on Superior. They had spent the night very near the Mosquito river camp ground the TT group stayed at last Sept. They just about got drowned! Unless you have so much experience you'd feel comfortable in the open ocean, in a kayak, I'd forgo Superior. Especially in Autumn and winter, I hear she gets fiestier this time of year. I have pictures of those guys if ya wanna see them some time. I think we all were holding our breath and praying the guy'd come up for air! He did and was okay but it was scarey watching him!

Funny thing about it was these fellas had just taken a class and a guide had been by that am to ensure them the four foot rollers shouldn't be a problem. They were a BIG problem!”

“Joy is right! Those guys worked their A$$es off just to go a short distance. We sat on shore holding our breath. One guy didn't make it out far enough to count and the other guy ended up capsizing and swimming back in. Both were exhausted!! It's fine when the water is like glass but Lake Superior is "Gitchee Gumee who never gives up her dead." Don't go out unless you're very experienced. That's just my two cents.”

“To be accurate, those guys were amateurs (not that I know any more). They couldn't get past the 4 ft rollers at the beach.

The big problem, aside from the water temp, are the long stretches without beach, at the base of the cliffs. There is nowhere to land and the waves will pin you to the cliffs.

The native americans supposedly had a place to the east at the Grand Sable bluffs where they would make offerings to the spirits for safe passage past the rocks.”

“If you want someone who can provide you with a guided trip on Superior when it's safe to do so, go to

www.greatnorthernadventures.com

Great Northern Adventures is a Marquette-based adventure tourism outfitter run by my wife's best friend from high school and can set you up with almost any type of trip in the U.P., whether sea kayaking, mtn biking, dog-sledding, etc. Good people and great places. Tell Rah that Reino sent you.

But heed the advice that Superior is now going into its nastiest phase, though it can turn on you any time of year.”

“I'm familiar with the lake and her fury, and I wouldn't ever think of getting into a kayak if the weather forecast wasn't all but gold (I'm a whimp!). I was just wondering if anyone had any experiences seeing P.R. via the lake (and not on the boat tour!)

Pekka, maybe we'll look into your friend's company. We're not headed up there until May or June next year, and don't know how much time we'll even have up there yet.”

“I met a hiker who wanted to kayak to Isle Royale from Copper harbor (44 miles). He asked me if I thought it could be done...I said "sure, ever hear that song by Gordon lightfoot?"”

“Another place I'll have to get to some day. Thanks for the report.”