Mt. Rainier in March

“Fellow TTers - I'm heading out to Mt Rainier in March for an 8 day mountaineering trip and summit. I don't have any particular questions, but if there's any 'sage' advice out there, please let me know. Any tips, gear suggestions/experiences, pre-trip preparation advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks!”

“Never tried it in winter conditions. Yowza! Which route?”

“Not completely sure, Emmons maybe? It's a guided climb with Alpine Ascents - they've given me plenty of info and recommendations, just figured I'd see if anyone here had any additional advice to provide. I'm really looking forward to it...should be a great way to learn from experienced mountaineers.”

“are you fully equipped? I've done Rainier in summer, but in winter are there routes with less avalanche danger? I think of that region below Dissapointment cleaver and it seems like a great avalanche bowl.

”

“I've got about 75% of the equipment - I'm building it up and still have some time. From what I hear there are possitives and negatives to winter and summer climbs. It's the last week of March with a reputable guide service - so I'm fairly comfortable with it. I haven't purchased double plastic boots yet, any truth to the fact that you can't really break them in so renting is a decent option for your first climb? I can afford it, just wondering if renting is a decent option. Any other suggestions?”

“Man, that's a big chunk to bite off for your first climb. Don't get me wrong, Alpine Ascents is a quality bunch, but I mean Rainier in summer is no easy go... in March?”

“I'd say rent the boots unless you plan on a lot of climbs where you have to wear crampons. I lucked out and bought a pair of like new Galibier Super Guides, a real high quality leather boot of the 70's. They fit like a glove and I do so few big peak climbs anymore they will last my lifetime. Price: $50.

How do you go uphill in a winter climb, because the snow will be deep, and the grade too steep for snowshoes I would think in most places. Is the snow crusted from wind hard enough to walk on it?

Lots of people find Rainier in summer too physical, generally because they can't keep up with the guide's pace, or the altitude gets them. Winter would just make it harder, and definitely more dangerous for the avalanche danger. Your chances of success and also not being killed would go up on a summer climb.”

“I'm thinking the guides will have a keen eye on the avalanche danger and won't make an attempt if the danger is too high. A group from this site tried it this summer (Pennsy, Capn Bobo, Gremlin, Crazypace, ENS) and bad weather didn't allow a summit - this was in July, typically the best weather on the mountain. My opinion is you'll stand a better chance of successfully summiting if you can go later in the year...but again, you could catch a great window of weather in March.

For me, part of the satisfaction of a climb is getting to the top and being able to look back down to the lowlands below; something about seeing that just makes it for me. When I summited Mt. Baker, it was a beautiful crystal clear day, except for the last 500 feet, where we ran into a lenticular cloud (and high winds) that obscured the summit. Still a fantastic climb, but no photos from up there because there was nothing to see.

”

“All you need to summit Rainier is a streak of good weather, which in winter includes low avalanche conditions, be in super shape, and not be sick (at all). If you get to the top and look down at the lowlands, it will look like this, although this was not quite from the top. It was sunrise looking toward the Stuart Range.

”

“Great input - thanks, please continue. Pushing it off until June/July might make sense. I have to think about that. I climbed Mt. Washington today which is supposed to have the same slope as Rainier and I have to admit the last mile was an ass kicker. Putting it off until June/July will only allow me to get in even better shape. I learned a lot today and got to try out nearly all my gear. I definately need to hit the stair climber even harder, maybe with some plastic boots on and a weighted backpack (I live in Chicago, so mtns are few and far). I run half marathons fairly regularly, but those paled in comparison to how tough climbing can be on the legs. As I said, it was a great opportunity for me to do a temp check on my fitness and gear. Any recommendations for upping my fitness program (aside from running and lifting, which I do)? How did you prepare?”

“Hmmm... I think mountain climbing is much easier than running, but maybe that's a mental thing. I'd think anyone who runs half marathons shouldn't have a problem with Rainier.

I climbed Rainier last summer after running 4 miles three times a week in the spring. Most of the people who summited with me weren't as in shape as me, but I was enjoying it the most. I went with RMI, and while it was a long trip and the most difficult mountain I've climbed, the pace was easy and I didn't really feel challenged. All the better to enjoy the view.

The other thing for me is I've climbed lots of mountains in Colorado so being at 14,000' didn't bother me. The RMI pace on Rainier reminded me of climbing 14ers in Colorado with my kids - I'll always climb faster on my own. So you might try some "easy" 14ers in CO to check yourself out. The guides on Rainier climb the last 4000' in 6-7 hours.

Rainier in March sounds like fun, but you'll prolly enjoy the surrounding area more in the summer.”

“Hey Chowda, I was entertainig giving it another shot in 2008. As posted, we got turned around at just over 11,000 due to a big storm that blew in this past july. We went with RMI, but for the next one I was looking at Alpine Ascents. I like their program better, you spend all 3 days on the mountain.”

“I've already signed on for the March program, but I'm going to call them and see if I can push it off a little - seems like I'll have the best shot of a summit a couple months later. If not, then March it is. Thanks Toejam for the vote of confidence - since Mt Wash was my first climb I didn't know how well I did - maybe our pace was a little quicker than what I'll see on Rainier which caused a little leg fatigue 3/4ths of the way up. I find it hard to believe many others will be in better shape than me, but they could be in better 'climbing' shape which caused some concern. I'm sure some of it is just mental as well. Crazy - you should definately do it, let me know if you decide and what program you do. That would totally suck getting turned around, but better safe than put in a dangerous situation. I've heard from various other non-competing guides that Alpine is the way to go and that RMI is way too commercial and concerned with 'touring' rather than actual climbing. Maybe that's because they had a monopoly on the mtn for so long and their program just sort of ended up changing that way b/c they had a broad array of people that were looking to get different types of experiences out of it. Alpine seems the way to go from the people I've consulted. I'll let you know what Alpine says about me changing up my dates - hopefully they will.”

“I have nothing negative to say about RMI. They also have a 3-days on the mountain program, although I enjoyed pizza, beer and a real bed after the first day. After climbing once with a guide I now feel confident climbing a standard route without one.

My friend from TX who went out there with me had leg issues and had to turn back, even though he's a stronger hiker than I am. The steep slope had him in pain. Everyone else in the party made it to the top. No one was overweight or smokers. Ther were only 4/11 of us who still had energy to go to the true summit after reaching the crater. The rest laid on their packs looking like they didn't know why they were there. But I've never seen anything that impressed me like Mt. Rainier and I've never done anything as exhilerating as climbing it.”

“Oh, I forgot to mention my program is an 8-day Denali Prep program on Rainier and THAT is why they do it so early in the season to closely mimic what you would face on a Denali expedition. The program is designed to teach you all facets of mountaineering in depth with a summit on the final day. I think I'm going to stay with the March date and if I don't summit, I don't summit. At the very least I'm going to build very strong winter mountaineering skills, which is why I'm doing it in the first place. I need to remind myself of WHY I'm doing it, bagging the summit will be the icing on the cake...

Happy Holidays Everyone!”

“After 8 days on the ice you'll be so ready for the summit. There will no casual peak baggers in your group. Your skills will be strong by the end of that. My guide said the Denali trip was 21 days on the ice.”

“Very nice toejam. I'm really getting fired up for this trip. Any recommendations for a weekend in Colorado? Southwest has reasonable airfare from Chicago to Denver and maybe something b/w now and my Rainier trip would be good. Do you know of any local groups that go on climbs?

Thanks for all your input.”

“Shout out to Roam Around and Adventurist on a new thread. There are some nice 14,000' hikes close to Denver (Mt. Beirstadt the most obvious in winter). I'll bet somebody up there wants to go hiking in the snow.”