Mt Whitney TR

“So when I got our permits a couple months ago I wasn�t too concerned that the weather would be a factor since it was the second year of very dry conditions. Hahahaha! The week before was Memorial week-end which saw a huge storm dump tons of snow. This was to be a real adventure.

As the five of us drove up to the campground at the portal we all took notice of the �Active Bear� sign. No sooner than turning into the campground did we see a small bear. We were quick to unload all the smellables into the bear box. I got up twice to check for specific items that I might have left in the vehicle. There was nothing. That did not stop the little guy from jumping into the back of my truck for a personal inspection. I wonder if that was before or after my multiple trips. The bear was kind enough not to scratch or ding my truck in any way other than leaving a few minor paw prints as he launched into and of the bed.

While at the portal, we encountered a young man who had to be rescued from the mountaineering route the day before. SAR had spent the night hiking up to him and then a helicopter evacuated him. He seemed very exhausted but expressed that he was feeling better. We were surprised when he said he was thinking of doing a day hike to Lone Pine Lake. We hiked up to Lone Pine Lake in great weather and great company. We had the lake all to ourselves and were in bed by 8:30. A little early for me but the altitude with the climb combined from the portal had us all tired. We were on the trail again by 8:30 and started the climb up to Mirror Lake through quite a bit of snow. Everyone we encountered had turned back at Trail Camp due to conditions. At this point, we had only heard of one person who had managed to summit from the Main Trail since the storm. We were wondering what we were in for above. We then encountered a couple of rangers and had a friendly chat. Soon, we came across a really nasty traverse above Trailside Meadow. This scared me more than any conditions faced on Rainier or Shasta. We managed to cross this without incident and made it to Trail Camp in the afternoon. We spent the day and evening watching people coming down the snow chute. I was amazed to see people descending after 8:00pm. Trail Camp was pretty crowded with little privacy and few options for a sheltered site. Off to bed we went with a 4:30 wake up call.

Sunday morning, June 1st, as we were climbing above the chute, where there had been a recent slide, there were quite a few people climbing up. Straight Up! The switchbacks were barely discernable above camp but then completely disappeared under all the recent snowfall. The chute was the only route. As three of our party climbed higher, my friend stayed back with me, as I was struggling a bit from being so out of condition. The higher we climbed the less we looked down as the steepness was somewhat terrrifying.

We arrived at Trail Crest at 9:40am to a crowded Trail Crest. There was one group with about 8 people, a couple, and one guy who had come all the way from the parking lot who was kind enough to kick in better steps for us, and of course our own friends. My friend and I decided we had �summited and stayed behind while the other three went for the real summit. Having been there previously I was fine with stopping here in these conditions. We sat at the top for a while and waited to gather the courage for the inevitable descent down the chute. As we started to down climb, my friend immediately slipped on the steepest part at the top and began an unplanned slide. She didn�t panic and did what I was telling her (yelling) and managed to stop herself. We took a break until her heart (ours) returned to normal. We eventually made it to the bottom between plunge stepping and glissading and were back at camp by 1:30pm. Now we tried to avoid the ever present sun while waiting for the return of our friends. We were supposed to return to Lone Pine Lake but as the time passed we knew that wasn�t to be.

Finally the victorious group returned and we were reunited with only a few bruises and nothing that a hot cup of soup wouldn�t cure. Conditions past Trail Crest had a significant impact on the time for anyone who was on the main trail on Sunday. My friends did note that one group managed to summit and then do some rock climbing before heading back down. I always ask myself how people get in such phenomenal condition. We sat there at 9:00PM and watched several groups coming down the chute with headlamps. With a couple staggering through our site asking where the trail was as they were too tired or confused to find it. We had some fun hiking out in the morning. Rather than follow the trail, and experience that hairy section again, we hiked down through the snow past Consultation Lake and met back up with the trail by Trailside Meadow. We glissaded down to the bottom to a few �woo hoos� from our audience on the trail.

One note, with all of the gear for winter conditions, the total weight we were carrying between the five of us was about 250lbs. When we returned to the portal, one of our members had managed to reduce her pack weight by 17lbs. Who knew Musubi weighed so much? Here is a link to the photos http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563685239uKOoOg”

“Great TR, and pictures. Thanks, for sharing.”

“Wow! That certainly turned into a momentous trip, didn't it? I really enjoyed your photos...thanks for posting the link and for writing a TR...looks like you all had a great time...a not soon forgotten Whitney trip!”

“Very nice report!”

“great re. Thanks!”

“Great report, SandyAnn!”

“You are one crazy woman, sandy!! You wouldn't catch me doing that!!!”

“OMG! You guys RULE. Major trail jealousy. : ) Glad you made it ok.”

“Cool!!!”

“BowlderMan - when are you and your son heading out there? I am sure you guys will be on the switchbacks. I have yet to experience them as they are always buried in snow.”

“All - this was a great trip; thanks for the comments. More so since it was only 4 months ago (17 weeks) that I broke my ankle.

My husband was convinced that my entire summer would be spent recovering at home. Ooops...I hate to disappoint anyone. =o)”

“double good for you then! I didn't realize you were recovering from an injury - i think it's safe to say your recovered!

:)”

“Sandyann,
We start hiking from North Lake on July 25th, seven weeks from tomorrow (not that I'm counting or anything!). We plan to summit Whitney and then exit on BowlderSon's 13th birthday, August 9th. If there is still snow on the trail by then, then I think something is messed up!”

“Yes...but I think the water situation will be much better than either of us experienced last year on the JMT. We filtered water from mucky puddles it was so bad.”

“Pretty place. Thanks.”

“A guy I work with has a reuptation as a serious climber (he's spent a night hanging from the face of Half Dome). A few weeks ago he was invited to climb Whitney's Mountaineer's Route with some youngsters. He invited me mostly to keep him company on the ride I think. I've been hoping to climb with this guy and there's been a description of the Mountaineer's Route hanging on the wall of my cube for 4 years, so I jumped at the chance.

Found out that the dreaded Whitney lottery doesn't apply during April. You can go by the ranger station after hours and write your own permit. Summer began in April this year, so we picked up wag bags at the ranger station, drove to Whitney Portal and got a luxury camp next to the hiker parking. The younsters (late 20s) showed up after dark. There may have been some noise late, but this old guy was in bed.

I read a report by some punks who day-hiked up the Mountaineer's Route from Whitney Portal and back in 10 hours a few weeks ago. So I thought our itinerary of hiking 4.2 miles to Iceberg Lake to camp would be a piece of cake. My second mistake was packing 50# of winter camping and climbing gear.

One of the young'uns lead us up a little-used trail out the back of the picnic area that bypasses the long switchback on the main trail and meets it at Lone Pine Creek, the start of the Mountaineer's Route. The Whitney Portal Store was open for the first time this season as we passed.

We were soon scrambling up the Ebersbacher Ledges, trying to maintain balance with the heavy packs. It was a bit of a challenge and I got one good picture of the exposure. Above Lower Boy Scout Lake we had lunch before starting the snow climb. We put on skis & crampons because we are excitable dorks who don't get to the mountains often enough.

The soft snow, bright sun, altitude, and unrelenting climb really took their toll. I drank unfiltered water from below Upper Boy Scout Lake because my filter plugged (keeping my fingers crossed). When I finally made it to the steep slope below Iceberg Lake, I was tempted to set up camp at the bottom. I was spent and couldn't imagine dragging that ridiculous pack up the steep, soft snow and rock. But I saw one of my young partners practically running up the slope, so I started repeating a mantra from my favorite t-shirt - "mind over mountain, mind over mountain...."

I dragged myself across the frozen lake to where my work-mate was layed out on a rock like a lizard, and started melting snow and swallowing ibuprophen. The measly 4.2 miles took about 6 hours, and I was exhausted. My good knee was so swollen I wasn't sure if I could climb the next morning.

Iceberg Lake was beautiful. I didn't bring a tent because of the great weather, and enjoyed seeing the east face of Whitney in differing light every time I woke during the night. A little after 5:00 a.m. the sky was getting lighter and I was ready to get this climb on.

We started for the snowy chute about 6:30. The 6 of us climbed strong and soon met at the notch on top of the chute. My work-mate led up the gully to the left, on a rope with two of us behind him, and set a few anchors. The other whipper-snappers scrambled around like cats, dragging a rope behind them - it was a little out of control. We took a class 4 line straight up the middle of the gully, but could see easier terrain to the right. I climbed out of the gully and was surprised to find us on the summit. Even more amazing, we had it to ourselves!

After the usually summit tom-foolery, we headed down. Some of the guys wanted to rappell, and the rest of us just scrambled down. The ropes were completely unnecessary with no ice in the gully. I was back at camp a little after noon, while some of the crew played around trying to glissade. I didn't want to tear up my good climbing pants. It was great to climb with a group that was fit and skilled.

The hike back to the portal was much tougher than the morning's climb. There was scorching sun, post-holing, bleeding, bushwhacking, scrambling, getting lost, and more bleeding. Took 3.5 hours to get down from Iceberg Lake. The quicker group dropped packs at the Portal Store for burgers & beer. The other group didn't show up, but we had their permission to hit the road. Found out later that one of them had stumbled and dislocated a finger on the hike out.

I was beat up after the climb, but I'm planning to do something similar next April. Probably won't take full packs to Iceberg Lake though. Contact me if interested.

Pictures here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/toejamhikes/MountaineerSRouteApril2013?authuser=0&authkey;=Gv1sRgCMzVlbCOtcWfAQ&feat;=directlink”

“I can say I made it to Mt Whitney but not the way you did..lol
Nice pics of the climb to get there”

“Your description of getting to Iceberg Lake really remind me of how I felt getting to Consultation Lake on my first trip to Whitney in 2006. Although once past Lone Pine Lake we were in Crampons the entire way because of the route we took.

The trip I describe above we were carrying way too much gear and snow shoes which did not use.

Great Report and pics Toejam!”